cosmichobo

I've really gotta learn to go with my gut instinct... My first thought was just check the bulbs... but all 4 lights not working made me think bigger. Well... the 2 quarter panel bulbs are blown. But the 2 boot bulbs are ok. The reverse lights work, so for now I'm ruling out the wiring going to the boot. But - would the 2 blown bulbs in the quarter panels stop the boot ones from working?? No - I have had no warning lights to tell me something's wrong... Even when I discovered the first quarter-panel bulb was dead - I left the bulb out, turned the car on, and had no warning light. ?? So I'm off to Kmart/Supercheap to get a new multi meter (bad lead) and 2 new '7443' bulbs... and hope that at least gives me 2 working brake lights... or better - fixes all 4 somehow... cheers guys

I have a multi meter... just wondering if you could point me to the easy access points for me to test the wires? Was easy in my Nissan Zed... they're just tucked in under the carpet... or the trims were easily removed by a few screws... but this looks a bit harder...

Oh! Hadn't even thought about the fact there are basically 4 lights involved - 2 on the boot, 2 on the tail section. ALL of the tail lights Except the window mounted one do not work. Out of interest - what did the wire-replacement cost you? Also a new question, I'm assuming not really related but just newly discovered - there is a wire coming out of the key-lock in the boot, that goes to a clip, with a white connector. Then there is a wire with a white connector that looks like the matching-pair, which is not hooked up. (That make sense?) I'm wondering why the boot key lock has a wire, and where does it go to? Why would someone disconnect it? It's electrical - not just the pulley to release the boot...

G'day, 2000 Camry Conquest, 4cyl auto. Just went thru the carwash, and was told by the guys there that our tail lights aren't working - only the rear window-stop light. Went to SuperCheap and picked up some fuses. Got home (cos couldn't get the buggers out without some needlenose pliers), and a) the fuses were wrong size/shape... but B) it's not the fuse. I swapped the Heater's 10A fuse into the Tail Light 10A, and the lights still don't work - just the window one. So I went looking in the engine bay, found the relay/fuse box, but couldn't decypher what if anything there would be of use to me??? I feel like such a noob... but - help me fix my tail lights??? I'm assuming that they haven't actually both just died... (to be frank, I have no idea if they have individual globes in them or what??) In my Nissan 280zx the light housings had 2 globes each... so if one was out, it was easy to diagnose. If all of them were out, then you knew it was a fuse, the relay, or the switch. But because the window-stop light comes on... I'm assuming that they run off the same relay... and the same switch obviously... so... where to now??? Thanks!! cosmic

Just cracked the old fob open - The bastards have spot-welded the battery to its terminals!!! Can't believe it... will try break the battery out, but don't see it going well...

Um - Gen4 and Gen4.5 - is that the Jan 2000 Camry? :) If I can get the "dead" remote key to work again, then I think I might go get another key cut and try that out! I have a black key, so it's a Master. Certainly hate the thought of paying $70 for THAT! Bad enough I nearly let my wife talk me into paying them to code the remote!

Just paid $40 inc gst for one... "Coded" it in the carpark. Definitely glad I tried it myself and didn't pay an extra $20 for them to do it (!). Now I'll break the old one open and see if I can't get it going again too... though not much use for it without another key as well, which I was informed needs to also be coded, should I get one...

Oh - I've just been re-reading another thread in which I posted about this in Feb... I see now (again) they are a closed unit... :( http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...c=13582&hl= Guess it's time for a trip to Toyota OldMac Springwood... and $30 or so bucks.

G'day, Per below - 2000 Camry keyfob is dead... and can't have a new battery. :( Just got 2 quotes for a replacement - $40 (Oldmac Toyota, Springwood Qld) and $64 (Southside Toyota Mt Gravatt Qld). First one uncoded, 2nd wouldnt quote me uncoded. Anyone know a cheaper place to get them? Just had to pay $300 excess on a broken window thanks to some prick who threw a rock... need to save all the $$ I can... even if it's only $10 Cheers cosmic -------- G'day, Been trying to open this: But just feels like it's gonna break. I'm trying to lever it from the end with the ring on it... - there's lots of other scratch marks where it's been opened before from that spot... I can get maybe a few millimeters gap, but about half way down on each side it appears to have something holding it tight... There's no screws... Can anyone give me a guide to getting into this darn thing? The batteries were dying... now completely dead... cheers cosmic

G'day, Just in the past few days the front driver's side wheel/area has started making some rattley noises, which I believe is the CV joint... What should a competent mechanic charge me to fix it...? 2000 Camry Conquest cheers cosmic

Thanks for that! That's exactly the info I've been after. I have black handled key and single button fob. I guess all I really need is the spare key, incase the wife locks the master in the car... though it's good to know that I can easily reprogram a fob by myself without too much problem (it needs a new battery; only works within 1 metre radius of car at best). Cheers!

Excuse my ignorance... Gen 4 Camrys... being the 2000 model I have? Is the $140 just going to get me a key... or a key + fob/remote?

*lol* So, you're thinking it's a faulty sensor? It's gone off again now. If it was knocking - wouldn't it be a noticable sound (ie different to normal)? Though - that said - I guess I barely hear the engine in the Camry, as compared to my 30 yo Nissan Zed, that has leaky weather strips, leaky windscreen, and probably not much insulation left on its firewall...

I was just asking about this kind of thing over on the Camry forum... I have a 2000 Camry, recently purchased and only came with 1 key. (The key comes with a seperate remote opener unit; key itself doesn't appear to have any kind of IR/other communicative device, but I could be wrong? It's certainly bulky enough to be hiding something, but there's no obvious sensor like I've seen on other "smart" keys) So - I went to Mister Minute and asked how much for a duplicate key. $140. I basically laughed and walked away - didn't ask if that included a replacement remote opener as well... M_M's method wouldn't work in my case as I don't have another "insides" to swap into a "blank" key... Is there another way I could program a blank to work in my car? cheers cosmic

G'day, I only have 1 copy of the key/remote unlocker for my 2000 Camry Conquest. (It's got the key seperate to the remote, with no obvious sensor built into the key's "handle", if that makes any difference) I asked at a Mister Minute and was quoted $140 to get a new key... The price simple made me say "Thanks" and walk away without getting details, so I don't know if that was going to include the remote opener?? Where do you go to get a 2nd copy? Do you need the remote "key" as well as the engine key? How much can you get them for? Where from? cheers cosmic

Well, the light has become sporadic. Actually before I put the additive into the tank, it went off again for a few minutes, then back. Well after I put the additive in (next day), it stayed off for a day... then came back on again. I'll wait til we've gotten through the tank of petrol... see if it starts staying off longer.

I've bought some Wynns petrol treatment stuff to put in the petrol tank... (which cost $7 at Kmart, and the mechanic wanted to charge $25 for no doubt the same thing). I've got quotes from the mechanic on getting the gearbox and other things flushed... I'm going to check them out with another place, and if they are actually good value, then I'll take it back and ask them to do their further investigations - assuming the light stays on after the Wynns. The morning that we took the car to the mechanic the light actually went off... for 5 minutes. Then according to the mechanic after they reset it, it didn't come on again - til I got in it... And the day after I got it back, the light came on at first, then went off for - a minute - then came back again. I'm guessing either the fault is becoming less severe, or the sensor is bad....

G'day, Per below - my 2000 Camry Conquest 4 cylinder had its engine light come on (solid) a few weeks back. Mechanic checked it out, and said it was reading: P0325 - Knock Sensor #1 Malfunction. They reset it, and said the light had not come back on while they serviced the car. However as soon as I got in to drive it home - light came back on. Looking here: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gen...malfunction.php it first points out that this warning could lead to series engine problems... but then also basically makes it sound like it's more likely to be a sensor failure... Anyone have experience with this code? Suggestions? The mechanic said if it came back on they could "investigate further", which just sounded expensive to me... Thanks

Um so.... How about a 2000 Camry Conquest? :)

G'day, I've just been quoted $120 by my mechanic to replace my 2000 Camry's 4 spark plugs with platinums... According to (At least, that was in regards to a 98 Vienta... am assuming there's not a lot of difference??) So, basically they were going to charge $60 labour... Are they as hard to replace on the Camry as they are on the Vienta? Is it worthwhile getting the platinums over cheaper ones? Cheers cosmic

G'day, Had the Camry into the mechanic today. Results are: OBD Error Code - P0325 - Knock Sensor #1 Malfunction. They reset it, and said the light had not come back on. However as soon as I got in the car to drive it home - light came back on. Looking here: http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gen...malfunction.php it first points out that this warning could lead to series engine problems... but then also basically makes it sound like it's more likely to be a sensor failure... Any tips on doing a bit of DIY investigation before asking the mechanic to have another go? Incidentally, I paid $97.50 for: Oil change, oil filter, wiper refills, engine flush. They didn't do the plugs because they didn't cover platinum plugs under their standard service, and I didn't want to pay $120 for a new set of them... (!?) (I realise I was "ripped off" because I could have done that all myself... but I need to keep the car serviced for its 1 year car yard warranty). The mechanic also advised that the following "should" be done: Timing belt (197,000kms; unknown when last done) ($ not advised) Manual transmission flush ($189) Radiator flush/new liquid ($114) Brake system flush ($30) Fuel system flush ($25) Of all of that, I'll pay for the timing belt and brakes... not the radiator and fuel though - can do them myself. They still have my Nissan 280zx... I think they're planning to retire on the proceeds from its repairs... if only they knew I'm not paying them another cent beyond the original service fee - great to get a list of things to look at from them though.

Thanks for the replies, guys. I checked the fuel cap - no luck. (Oh - read that that can do it sometimes) The mechanic I've got the f'n voucher for (and now have the car booked in to) - wants $55 to hook the OBDII reader up and get the code. So I called my local Toyota dealer next - OldMac Springwood, (South Bris) - he said they'd need to have the car in for at least 1/2 hour to diagnose... I didn't bother asking how much their hourly rate was. Kinda ****** frankly. The Toyota guy at least did suggest it might be the O2 sensor, which is a common reason for the light coming on, apparently. I took my multimeter out to the car, hoping I could stick it places and get some pulsing, but couldn't even see where the OBD goes... Is it on the fuse-block? There's an empty slot there, but it's only got 2 pins on it - looks like there's meant to be a heap of pins looking at the OBDII sensor diagrams? Considering I could buy one of these sensors for around $77 (US), I definitely feel like I'm getting ripped here!

G'day, My 2000 model 4cyl auto Camry Conquest's engine light came on yesterday. The manual enlighteningly says - "Take to a Toyota dealer". I am planning on getting a service soon anyway (not at a Toyota dealer), but is this something that should greatly concern me in the meantime? I did a quick search, and found one possible cause could be the fuel cap incorrectly fitted, but I've checked it and it seems ok... Anything else I can check? cheers cosmic

Does anyone know if this will fit in my 01/00 Camry? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/TOYOTA-6-STACKER-CD...1QQcmdZViewItem It states "Most Toyota's from 2002"... which is obviously after my car... but looks like it might be just as cheap/easy to buy a whole new setup rather than just the CD unit... I've had a look online but can't see the types of connectors used in my model. And not sure how to remove the CD/Tape... Really gotta get a take-apart/service manual...

That's it... It kind of blends together, but there is a black void under the CD, which is were the bezel is missing. No, the discs I've tried were commercial releases... The light goes on when you insert a disc, recognising that one has been inserted. The manual (leaflet) says that there are no user servicable parts... But then, they always do... If it's just a dirty lens, has anyone been inside one of these CD Players to know how easy it is to access?