Wixy

Up from the grave this thread rises!

I don't work for them, but I'm a loyalist of Mobil1, especially their 0w40 grade, so you can most certainly fill your 2.5L AWD with this bad boy.

The "40" will cover your hot summer temperatures easily anywhere in Australia, whilst the "0" will be great for cold engine startups during winter.

Mobil1 is factory fill for most Japanese and European exotics (Lexus LFA, all of the Lexus V8 F models), some f1 teams and most of Australia's Supercar teams or Holden's Racing Teams.

Respect brother

i wish i had the knowledge and skills to pull things apart and put them back together in monster form.

very nice, have fun at the toyotafest. I went to the Melbourne one, great collection of classics, but I only saw one rolla sportivo there.

Can I ask where you got your Bride RO Rails from? standard auto stores? hehehehehe i need to get myself some bucketseats just for fun. though I don't think I would be getting recaros unless it is relatively cheap (my car has done 275,000kms)

2 hours ago, Squalled said:

Thanks a lot Wixy! Really appreciate it mate.

Yeah, I definitely wanted the face lift version just because of all the little additions over 03/04 (all auto windows, interior trim) and I preferred to more aggressive look as well.

Yeah it's definitely something I really need to fix up on it but have never known what to get to fix it. Do you have any suggestions for the trim protectant? I actually like the black mud flaps to be honest. I think it's breaks it up a little although I've had temptations to paint them but I really like them the way they are for now.

RE trim protectant, there are millions of people recommending millions of the brands they trust, but in the end, we drive quite regular cars.

I would say get ANYTHING (within reason i.e. not too cheap and not too expensive) when your auto retailers have 30%+ off sale.

i tried Mothers back to black, and because that's more of a liquid form, it was nowhere as durable as Meguiar's Ultimate Protectant (not to be confused with the regular Meguiar's classic and natural shine protectants). If Meg's UP is at 30% off, it's the best bang for buck. Thick durable cream and lasts in the aussie sun when it's 35+ degrees. The trick is to let the cream dissolve overnight into the plastics. Works great on your unpainted plastics like mud-flaps, front windscreen bottom plastic guard, rear wipers, top antenna and all the plastics in your engine bay. Using a paintbrush is the best as it's not wasteful while creating uniform coats.

Have fun!

great automobile Squalled

love these to be classic sportivo rollas. love them to bits, closest thing to an asian version of RenaultSport Clio3s. your car looks the goods, and love the updated front bumpers before the MY06/07 corollas.

judging from the final pic above ^^^ you should get some trim protectant, use a paint brush and paint the protectant on your bottom window surroundings before the rubber start cracking (since you spent all that effort on detailing the windows). You could go to the wreakers and get some in good nick.

EDIT: Oh, should also paint your rear mud flaps. I reckon it adds an extra touch from the rear.

18 hours ago, Hiro said:

1) I4, not V4

2) ES350, not LS350

I wonder what the test results are with an in-line 4 vs a research mule V4

very noice.

Australia is the only country that decided to call Camry V6 as "Aurion", even though in some markets they look exactly like an Aurion (but different to a Camry). Most markets will have a Camry V6, which is a Camry with a...well, V6 engine.

I saw this on carsales and immediately thought if you were a forum member, Flex.

And wala, here you are lol.

GLWS, hope you sell it to someone who takes the same amount of care as you have. Looks the goods, though I'm sure them woofers can be quite impractical hehe.

I love cubed cars, and I wish I could purchase a MY15 Build 3 Rukus (that is currently on carsales with 9,XXXkms on the clock) as my daily

Sweet mother, for the age of the car, it has tiny KMs and the condition of this classic automobile looks the goods:

https://www.carsales.com.au/dealer/details/Toyota-Corolla-1989/OAG-AD-14975786/?Cr=3

It has been taken good care of, and I can see the wipers have been changed to the "premium" type.

If I was a Jay Leno with warehouses of cars to fill, this would make the list for sure.

what a waste.

sitting out in the elements to rot and die.

it appears the front passenger tyre has a puncture?!

But just imagine the insurance bill on that kinda thing too!

the 91s I saw in Shell & BP were both normal 91s, not E10s.

I cant fathom how Coles can justify 8c more for Vpower over BP Ulti, that's all.

If anything, BP Ulti has a much better rep for delivery on a "quality" product

Hi Guys,

Just wondering, SINCE when did Shell justify a 7c to 10c premium OVER BP Ulti? Has anyone realised that lately, or have I been under my freakin cave all this time and this is very very old news to all? I used to do BP Ulti but because we shopped at Coles, I thought instead of putting those useless 4c off dockets in the bin, I'd use them (4c off saves sqaut anyway). I remember specifically 3mths ago, BP Ulti & V-Power were the same price.

Since then, I have not compared pricing between BP & Shell (cuz we all have soooo much time), and because today the missus left a BP Ulti receipt on the table, by accident I saw the price -> It was 8c less than V-Power <-

I pump at the cheapest day in our fortnightly cycle (here in Vic), which is every 2nd Thurs/Fri.

Shell ULP = 1.42 / Shell V-Power = 1.60 / BP ULP = 1.41 / BP Ulti = 1.52

I double checked the pricing at another Shell pump, and it was the same...

If it's because it's fuel developed with Ferrari, well…I really don't give a horses arrears. BP Ulti, Vpower & Caltex Vortex98 are all apples, not a mixture of pears, oranges & grapes

Not a rant as such, just stunned. If this is Westfarmer's way of getting back at consumers for the "low" prices they offer at Coles, I'm gonna throw a brick into the reception of Coles HQ here in Toorak, Vic.

Nope mine hasn't pilled and hasn't lost much colour in wash. I know my blue one is showing some signs of wear in the material. I've washed them good 20 or so times. Also on medium or slow wash cycle and also cold water and i hang them inside out in the sun or under cover. So maybe it could be something to do with how you wash your clothes?

Tumble try will wear them out quicker obviously too.

yea putting it for slow cycle for me would mean it would be delicate piece of clothing, as my nautica ones and all of my other clothing dont pill on a normal cycle. i dont tumble dry them though.

Anyway did my homework and found out that the Brits/UK market has RL Polo's derived from Pima Cotton, as supposed to the very fragile cotton we have here. Looking on ebay, found that a normal Pima Cotton RL Polo from the UK market can be had for less than the stupid retail price here in Aust - delivered with tracking and insurance, so go figure - and its no wonder why people resort to online shopping rather than shopping at pathetic retail stores with these price comparisons. Dont get me wrong, I'd pay anything for Aust. Made, but this is far from it - they are all from China.

took me around 45mins to examine, read, magnify, read again on the 10 page thread

bloody !@#@#$#%^

i just cant believe someone would make a complete in depth model out of soft trees and laquer it up.

No words can describe the level of skill he has.

it really does make us normal dudes who have "hobbies" seem utterly pathetic.

sure, one might be able to replace an engine, or conduct a showroom respray...but making an replica F1 car from the inside out, bottom to top with paper - thats just unreal

I disagree. Using letters is not done by any other manufacturer, and reeks too much of the Holden Gemini SL/X and Ford Falcon GLi days (from 20 + years ago). The obvious reason Toyota is using this naming system is to emphasise the nameplate "Camry", in the same way a Honda Accord is referred to as just that, and not a Honda Accord Nav Luxury, for instance.

I don't think it will work. I think the naming system is confusing. It's not like Toyota is ever consistent with model designations anwyay. It used CSi and CSX, etc for two series, then went with Altise, Ateva, etc. What about the Conquest? Or the Azura? Or the CSi Executive? Or the Touring (no, not the limited edition special, the pre-Sportivo model)? And what now about Sportivo? And why can I buy a Corolla Ultima, but not a Camry Ultima? And why is a Pressara better than a Prodigy? What does AT-X mean? Oh, my head is spinning...it's time for nap.

well said

lols

them bloody model names were always so damn confusing across the different ranges of the Toyota fleet.

Another example is Mazda, they just have the plate "Mazda6", or 3 or 2. Model differences will take some skill for the average female, or a non car fan, as the only way to distingish is by the body panels, size of alloys & small things like HID or Halogens in the projectors. I prefer if Toyota went down that path - discret but all discribed somewhat equally...sort of, unless you buy the MPS lols

i've only ever bought RL polo's... i have been given tommy and nautica as presents but never liked how they sat on my body.

i haven't found that the are 'delicate'...

i've machine washed mine a LOT of times... and nothing wrong with them.

i do find that my shirts lose their color quite quickly though! but i think thats just the harsh qld sun as its the same on all my shirts. :(

I've got 2 Ralph Lauren polos. 1 bright red and 1 light blue. Bought mine when I was in Hong Kong at a factory outlet in 2008. I machine wash mine in a top loader washing machine on normal cycle at medium speed in cold water only. I hang them in the sun inside out to decrease colour fade.

Ralph Lauren is good quality. It doesn't crease, material is still good like new and the colour hasn't faded.

I've got other polos that I have noticed colour fade, crease easily and material degrades over time due to machine washing and sun drying.

Other brands I've got are Tweed River, Baleno, Slazenger and Original Polo Co.

More importantly for you 2 folks, do you see your polo's pilling?

As in, when looking at the stitching, do fine cotton hairs start to pull away from the shirt, or stand out from the main stitching.

I've noticed this across all RL polos, even new ones in stores, whereas Pima Cotton will never pill, they just stain easily - sigh I'll just make my own stupid pony sign - lols

Greetings!

This came across my mind just then - dont know why, but wanted this curiousity fulfilled...so I referred to TOCAU! lols

Those who own the famous and overly consumed, overly popular RL Polos, I've got a few questions:

1. How do you wash your polos? Machine or hand wash?
   
2. How long have your polos lasted?
   
3. Do you buy at retail level? (including the sales where polos have been seen for dirt cheap i.e. 60% off genuine stores)
   

The reason for these questions are cuz I find RL Polos to be OVERLY delicate, and have 10,000% increased wear and tear when compared to other companies making polo shirts.

In short, it seems you pay overly too much for something that wears out too easily = crap house. I should just stick with the cool shirts from JayJays.

Example A - The Wixy Polo Ownership...

Nautica:

I'm more of a Nautica fan because I do sailing every now and then.

I own around 13 Nautica Athletic Fit polos of varying colours.

I machine wash the ba$tard$ after all the grime and sweat in a days play for the last 3-4 years.

Although they have minor wear and tear, to my surprise they are still in great condition.

The cotton on the polo does not show any signs of pilling (cotton fibres leaving the stitching), being Pima Cotton as written on the shirts.

Ralph Lauren:

I purchased 2 from the RL department store in Singapore.

I purchased 3 from ebay, and upon receival, confirmed they were authentic.

All 5 are combination Made in China, SriLanka or India. They are all Custom Fit.

The total of 5 polos purchased were at low low prices when compared to the Aust. retail market.

I have washed 1 polo TWICE in the machine (from Singapore), and it is pilling like crazy - had to resort to fabric shavers to remove pilling.

I have worn another 2 on various occasions, and the stitching is starting to pill, and I reckon I will have to handwash these to prevent...crap house. I can visibly see the stitching being worn from.

All RL Polos were worn on non physical activity days.

End of Example lols.

So is it just me or do people find RL Polo's wear out too easily?

I somehow feel sorry for those who saved up their cash and paid the retail price for these only to realise they have been short changed with a non durable, highly delicate, polo.

It seems Nautica is still the way to go.

it all depends how much of a perfectionist you are.

if you overly desire a perfect job, you could spend a whole day on 1 or 2 panels, spread out across weeks. obviously machinery will help reduce that gap, but if you are doing it all by hand - then yea...lols.

i remember doing a job by hand on 1 day (because my trusty DA polisher was being repaired), and i spent close 4 hours on the bonnet. making matters worse, it was solid white paint that had been stained from years of neglect, so there were more than the average steps to do.

in the perfect world, i would spend 1 week detailing a car, provided it will always be garaged during the whole 7 days - but then again after doing that you wouldn't want to drive it either!

Thanks for the expertise & brains.

I like what you said KRS-093, that using my trip meter will create inaccuracies with my calcuations, as this larger tyre goes more per km, thought I'm staring at the figures, and the change in diameter from my stock tyre to current size is only 16.77mm more, while circumference wise its 52.90mm more. So I guess we're talking peanuts. But I found links that expand on what you were talk about.

What brought me to closer attention was some of the further well written brains I found on google:

The final variable to the issue of tire size vs. fuel consumption is application. For example, a 4 cylinder engine might suffer more from wider tires than a V-8, due to the difference in torque. The stronger the engine, the less likely that a small increase in load or rolling resistance is going to require more fuel to operate.

From: http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090114001804AA0hOlS

A larger tire would make a vehicle a bit harder to get moving. But, the trade off means the vehicle would take less energy to keep it moving with larger tires. Therefore, if a car is used primarily for highway driving, overall MPG may improve with larger tires. For city driving, with lots of starts from dead stops, MPG may get worse with a larger tire. This has a lot to do with transmission design, where vehicle manufacturers gear the cars for a good blend of city/highway fuel economy, also based upon the power sweet spot of the engine (and tire size!). However, for cars used for a lot of highway driving, significantly better MPG may be achieved by gearing the transmission to use lower engine rpm's at highway speeds. (Especially with diesels). But regearing, if even possible, costs a lot of money. Increasing tire size is a cheap way of doing the same thing. A bigger tire will go farther distance during one revolution, meaning you need less engine rpm's to turn it.

From: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Does_rim_or_tire_size_change_mileage

So now im content that I've just chosen the wrong bloody size for city styled driving, eventhough within legal limits, because to and from work I am required to go through 25 sets of lights plus traffic, so the increased weight just doesn't help. I've calculated if these tyres lasted 3 years , it will cost me around $430 more in total than running on a 55series tyre - based on an average of 2L more per fill (including tripo inaccuracies) and $1.50/L cost of petrol.

So much for a great tyre deal...

Thanks super brains = )

My stock size was 205/65/15 with the factory rims, so on my prior change I decided to change to Toyo’s with 215/55/16 because the size gave me the lease diameter difference (-0.71% to be exact). During that change, every single tyre man who rotated and balanced my wheels told me I should’ve gone for 215/60/16 instead of the 55series – and that the 60series tyre would be more common and thus save me money. But I told them I wanted to minimize the speedo impact – and everyone single one of them told me I was wrong.

Now I’ve gone for the 60series only because Bridgestone Tyre Centre Box Hill (VIC) were having the Continental Premium Contact2’s on super special at $120 per corner (that btw is a good special), so I decided why not – good tyre for cheap (which btw is made in Malaysia and not the Frankfurt factories).

I was prepared to allow the +2.53 diameter difference from these Continentals, but I just could not have imagined such an increase in fuel consumption for an ever efficient whitegoods car. Today I pumped 37.11 Litres from travelling 344kms of 1 week’s travel.

I have also been told it may be the change from Toyota DIII ATF to the thicker Castrol Transmax Z ATF? When I changed the ATF, I did noticed that the factory Toyota ATF was a lot runny-er, and thinner – compared to the Transmax Z. When waiting for the ATF to chug down the pipe, it took ages compared to when I was using Toyota ATF. Do you guys reckon this may also be the contributing factor? I have doubts because I thought Transmax Z would have given me improved performance.

Cheers

definetely something for the sales guys to booster!

"made in japan" will be their beginning and end of their spiel

lols

Hi Guyts!!!

Super brains required = )

I’ve got a stock standard 02’ SXD20R Camry, and recently I conducted the following:

• Oil and oil filter change – I’ve always been using Mobil1 5w-50 & K&N oil filters since I purchased the car way way back.

• ATF change – from standard mineral to Castrol Transmax Z

• Tyre change – from Toyo Teo Plus 215/55/16 to Continental Premium Contact2 215/60/16

Here’s the problem, I’ve been getting the good fuel efficiency figures – up until I made these changes, and all these changes were all in 1 week, so I know it’s probably due to one of these factors.

I used to drive in a sprinted style, rev it hard and I would never, ever, ever go beyond 9.8L/100km (9.3L/100km was really the norm). But now I’m driving like a grandpa with 1 or 2 (yes I count now…) pedal plantings to the floor and I suddenly get 10.8L/100kms consistently. This is the 3rd week I’ve had to put in 3 to 4 more liters worth of fuel in the tank than I normally would.

I can only think it’s due to the tyre change – different construction compounds and a move to a greater % change in rotation (55series to 60series), but one would have thought these Continentals weren’t the cause. I did note that the Toyo Teo Plus’s were always boosting their “low rolling resistance” and high silica compound, but I wouldn’t have ever imagined a change in tyres would cause such a dramatic increase in fuel consumption.

Any thoughts?

digging up old thread!

Ben, im not too sure which ones you purchased, because $138aud for standard Philips Crystal Visions seem like a total...*cough*.

Standard Philips Crystal Visions are rrp99 aud.

however there has been a new release in the states, for at least 1.5years now, Philips Crystal Vision Ultra, which is an improvement on standard crystal visions available in Australia.

The difference is that the standard crystal visions are 4300k, while the crystal vision ultras are 4500k. diamond visions are 5000k but are considered hazardous for wet environments, and have too much blue. 4500k is a pure white light, while 4300k is bright yellow/white light, while 4200 and below is more yellow bright, thus 4500k is the one to get if you want the white-ist possible drivable light. anything above 4500k in halogens are silly imo, as you are endangering yourself.

A Japanese brand by the name of BJUnion has been making the Crystal Vision Ultra 4500k styled bulbs for eons before philips, and i had them on my camry for 1.5years before they blew. it was a true white light. i imagine the crystal vision ultra is to fill that marketplace.

i havent seen many stores in aust sell crystal vision ultras, but East Coast Spares, which are a reputable anti autobarn/repco/supercheap store in melbourne suburbia, and funnily enough, only listed it yesterday 15/04/11 on gumtree. rrp99aud, on ebay its 60aud including shipping.

im very interested to see how these crystal vision ultra compare to my previous experience with BJUnion 4500k pure white.

only reason why i still want to stay with halogens is because i dislike xenons being placed on non projector lamps. my headlight lense is a clear type (and not those zigzaged headlight lenses), but i still dislike how they shine on others. yes its superior, but its like being on highbeams 24.7. i could decrease the angle, but then that would defeat the purpose. if i had projector lenses that would be different of course! i would of course also be pull ova by the coppers as they would clearly know that my xenon fitment is not stock due to the way it shines on others.

gosh i know what u guys mean (i think we all do) when we corner on a car with a heavy shell, all it does is understeer and the feeling of bodyroll is very very noticable.

just corning at 30km/h at a steady rate is enough to jiggle your bums

Finally picked up some Meg's Ultimate Wash and Wax today - have been meaning to try it ever since that great write-up Davo did on it. Whilst I can't wash the whole car here due to water restrictions I used it on the front end today to scrub off all the bugs/grime the car wash just didn't get. Must say I love it, whilst its 'sudsy' in the bucket it doesn't leave soap residue all over your car, and it has a great gloss afterwards. I'd love to do the whole car in it, better take it back North East so I can try it out lol Was getting plenty of weird looks this morning sitting there washing with a bucket!!

Also picked up Meg's new glass cloth, green in colour, and its great too - it says "no grab" formula on the packaging and thats definitely true, wiped the product off (Meg's No Smear Glass Cleaner, cos I can use it on my tinted windows) with minimum fuss and left a clean streak free window.

So I've very much been continuing my love affair with Meg's products lol Waiting for a sunny weekend now after I move so I can clay the car again.

P.S Pete, the 'rolla is looking very nice! :D

great to see you're enjoy the meg's products. u can get more expensive products but do not give u that same performance level in terms of the quality and value for money department.

I complete detailing jobs using all meg's products, and just to illustrate and example, i use Meg's Endurance Tyre Shine GEL - last weeks, not days (I'm no trader btw LOL). x1 bottle of 725 or 800ml?? (cant remember) has literally lasted me 2years of instense detailing, esp in the summer times where i can get 10jobs over 1.5months during weekends only. This is the one product in which i know EXACTLY how much to use per tyre, and what technique works for me so to last 20+ cars (80 tyre wall applications). This is also the only product in which i do not need to purchase in bulk. All that for $18.99RRP from your auto chain.

Do the math, i dont care what tyre shine product any1 else can get in bulk, some1 try find me a bulk capable tyre shine GEL that lasts weeks (and not days) for retail level $18.99RRP, then I'll switch lol. I noticed those cheap liquid based tyre spray dressings that claim to do up to 100 tyres, but when i try, and when i try my very hardest, they always fall short because the claim does not account for thick tyre walls on regular cars & SUVs, as well as how old the tyres are.

Anyway, having said all that, be sure with UWW (Ultimate Wash & Wax) that you use at least 3-4 cap fulls - no skimping and being scarce., fill your bucket with water FIRST then pour the solution in, so it mixes gently with the water, and not the other way round. Great product, however can save it and use regular Meg's wash solution if you're going to wax the car anyway thereafter.

Cheerio!