julian040859

I have searched on the net and found that if you floor the accelerator and crank the engine the computer knows you engine is flooded and shuts down the injectors to clear the flood. I still dont know why this is happeneing of late when it never did before, even if I stalled the engine.

I have owned my 2007 Prodigy since new. In the last 6 months I have stalled the engine 3 times by attempting to drive off with park brake on. I try to start the car and it runs for a few seconds then stalls at idle without any load. The only way to get it going again is by leaving it for 5 minutes and then it starts fine again. In the old days with carburetor engine cars, if the engine was flooded you would keep your foot flat to the boards, crank the engine and it would start. Why is this all of a sudden happening and what is the best way to start a modern engine, assuming it has stalled and flooded?

I forgot to say, I get the steering shudder at around 100kmh after several hard braking episodes. So it seems that when the brakes disc get hot they create the shudder. I dont get any pulsating effect on the brake pedal as if the brake piston is going in and out. Could it be anything else like, ABS or piston problem.

I have a 2004 Sportivo 2.4lit. I get the shudder while breaking at around 100kmh but only sometimes, Could that still be the discs need machining or an ABS or brake piston problem given it is intermitent?

Easy try this link http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/17039-ultra-racing-strut-bar/page__hl__%20sway%20%20bar%20%20julian040859__st__345 Page 24 etc

I got mine done at Toyota dealership for $110, its only a bit of grease and less than an hours labour!

Pretty unlucky to get the same problem less than two years later. Perhaps the new fix will be better than the original change of parts? My Prodigy has been booked in to get the steering checked, in the last week the problem is now more than just when turning, it is evident when you slow down then accelerate without using brakes. The knock and vibration is felt through the steering column. I've had it on jack stands and with no engine on, I can clearly hear the noise near where the shaft connects to the control valve housing sub assembley. If that is where the problem is, why would you get the sensation when not turning the wheel, but slowing down and accelerating? I finally had the fix as per the TSB, all good now, amazing what a bit of grease does.

Pretty unlucky to get the same problem less than two years later. Perhaps the new fix will be better than the original change of parts? My Prodigy has been booked in to get the steering checked, in the last week the problem is now more than just when turning, it is evident when you slow down then accelerate without using brakes. The knock and vibration is felt through the steering column. I've had it on jack stands and with no engine on, I can clearly hear the noise near where the shaft connects to the control valve housing sub assembley. If that is where the problem is, why would you get the sensation when not turning the wheel, but slowing down and accelerating?

Pretty unlucky to get the same problem less than two years later. Perhaps the new fix will be better than the original change of parts?

Thanks for that 450hptonne, do you know how long this repair process takes no considering there is no part replacement? I've now done 92k and four years old.Just started to get the steering knock at low speed and slight bumps. How do they fix the problem without parts? Thanks for that 450hptonne, do you know how long this repair process takes no considering there is no part replacement? I've now done 92k and four years old.Just started to get the steering knock at low speed and slight bumps. How do they fix the problem without parts? It involves you driving the car to them, leaving it with them and getting it back in a repaired condition. I was looking for a more technical answer Trent, something along the lines that they undo certain steering components and pack them with grease or tighten some bolts and it only takes an hour? Perhaps someone knows exactly what they do to fix it without replacing the shaft.

Thanks for that 450hptonne, do you know how long this repair process takes no considering there is no part replacement? I've now done 92k and four years old.Just started to get the steering knock at low speed and slight bumps. How do they fix the problem without parts?

Just did a round trip mostly highway 650klms average 7.5Lt/100klm on Shell V Power in searing heat with air con on all the time. You would have to be happy with that from a six cylinder car! The worst I have had is 14.5Lt in city traffic. My wife drives a bit more consevative than me and she can get it down to 7.1Lt/100klm on same highway drive.

Here is a picture of the new hose assembly which appears to be all metal. Much better part in my opinion than the original.

How much for the metal part? and I assume it will be free of charge if its the same rubber rite? Cheers I think you may be talking about the wrong pipe ... the one picture is well above the oil filter mentioned by the OP. I'm suspecting the oil cooler hose based on the description. Labelled 15767 below (lower right): There is a metal version of this one available too. Can't open your picture, but, yes it is something to do with the oil cooler area, I haven't got the vehicle back yet but will post the actual part details shortly. It is in an almost inaccessible position unless the vehicle is on a hoist and the guard plate is taken off. The dealership told me they have never ordered that part before and they sell plenty of Aurions, Klugers etc with the same motor. Here is a picture of the replacement hose which appears to be all metal with a stretchy bendy section (not sure what word you would use?)where the rubber hose was on the old part. It appears to be much stronger. You actually can see it without removing the plastic guard under the front as it is near the oil filter.

What is uncommon today might be far more common in 6 months it the hose does in fact fail for others after 90,000km. As for routine maintenance, the dealership had just done the 90,000km service 48 hourse earlier which is a major service. Nothing was detected then so it is difficult to identify a potential line failure in what appears to be a reasonable hose. The dealership actually showed me the hose and it did not look perished at all. It just had the pinhole in it. Perhaps I was just unlucky and Toyota was just being generous fixing it out of warranty or perhaps they realised that it should not have happened in the first place. The replacement hose is far more robust looking suggesting that Toyota has identified it as a potential problem and addressed the issue.