AE102

according to this website it gives you an increase of power and it has no side effects

www.wwtech.co.za/products.php

the test fifth gear did was independant - the where just answering a common question. that fella in Ireland is implying that octane boosters dont work if your car needs to run on a higher octane fuel. if your car is mapped for normal fuel you wont do any harm but why waste money. use the better stuff from the petrol station and reset the ecu - definately a noticeable difference when changing to v power but can take a tank to clear the deposit left from using normal fuel. i still use a bit of fuel infector clean no and then as an extra clean when i do a service.

did you check the wheelnut tension after a week of driving?

If the nuts were only done finger tight by Jax then the wheel would have worked it's way loose a lot sooner.

Did the studs shear or did the nuts come off?

Is the seat angle of the nuts correct for the wheels?

he's right - you should re-torque the wheels after around 80km's of driving. when the wheels where fitted did you see a torque wrench being used? some garages use torque wobble bars (brown for toyota) but these can be very unreliable as it relys on the compressor being at maximum pressure which is difficult to maintain in a workshop enviroment. there has been cases over here of peeps wheels coming off after not being tightened correctly after using torque wobble bars. overtightening - like you see a lot of garages do with an air impact gun - stretches the threads and can also cause the nuts to come loose. not tighteneing the wheel nuts in the correct manner - opposites - can cause the wheel not to seat right. where you told to retorque the wheels or the fitter invite you back to check like there suppose to?

hey. i want to try some octane boosters (Df 20) in my rolla, i would like to know if it is safe 2use this product?

and has anyone tried it b4? if so how did it respond

they did a test on a programme over here called "fifth gear" - proper lab conditions engine connected directly to dyno and all that other science stuff when doing comparisions. all products tested actually caused a loss in power so they didnt get recommended. seen another article in a jap mag about a fella in Ireland who rebuilds rotary engines. apparenlt they are mapped to run on super which isnt available in Ireland he advises customers to have the car remapped on normal 95 ron but some ignore his advice and use octane boosters - he doesnt complain as it aint to long before they need a rebuild cos of detonation from the wrong fuel. so from my limited research i wouldnt waste me money. just buy decent fuel - used v power in all me cars and swear by the stuff.

Shell V Power, previously used Optimax but V Power is a marked improvement. Tried a few others but not that impressed, neither was the engine - seems once its got a taste for the good stuff...........

yes i know it has a self caliberating ECU that's why when you make a change but i did this with other high octane fuel and the car responded poorly?

I return an average of 36mpg in the cooler months and 32mpg when its warm.

how difficult are they to fit? i'm pretty competant with the spanners...........

what about the TRD LSD? Quaife are legendary over here thro rallying and the old skool escorts and cossies, and you see there name popping up in drift articles but not what i want for my 2zz, am i wrong?

Hi guys, Went toyota today toget spark plugs for my 04 rolla stivo.

Guy at the counter gave me 3 options

Standard:sk20rll $16

Iridium Power:IK20 $19

better Iridium Ones:VK20 (which they dont sell, he said supercheap and such should sell them)

So off i went to supercheap

They had no idea on the codes from toyota so they had a little look in there service book and came up with these

Bosch F8-4 Platinum & Iridium (Bosch Platinum Fusion)

FGR6DQI

On the back it states 1,6mm

Are they right for my car? Anyone used them before?

P.s they cost me around $85

i got NGK iridium, no difference in performance but cheaper and more readily available - could only find the denso ones at the dealer and i dont like getting ripped by them so i stick with my local parts place but they dont stock denso plugs. i have used bosch plugs in the past in my 7a-fe and foulnd them good - although i havent tried there iridium ones.

In this months Banzai mag i was reading about the DC2 that won last years n/a Time Attack. the guy Dixon Cheng uses Dixcel discs. naturally there was a big full page advert for them after the article and they have got me very interested. I emailed them to see if they do any for the E12 but havent had a reply yet - then i remembered about the link Superdave put in my TRD pad thread and they do.

Looking at the heated slotted discs - from Superdave's list they do the HD discs so i presume they will do the slotted versions.

Does anyone use or have used Dixcel discs what do you think?

Hi guys, ive had my 04 stivo since the begining of this year. anwyay it makes a few weird noises, one which i think is the gear selector cables which i learnt after browsing this forum. It sounds like rattling from under the car and cames and goes. If it is that, i have come to learn that there is no real solution for this...true?

2nd is, my gf keeps saying my car sounds like a diesel motor cause when its at low revs it makes (like take off at too low a rev, not to the point where its goings to stall but at about 1500-2000k).....well.....diesel sounding noise. Do all stivos sorta sound like this? Had this since i got it and all was stock.

The car has perfect service records every 10thous and the was in perfect nick when i got it. Theres nothing wrong with it, and it runs fine, but my missus is starting to bug me.lol

Any ideas or thoughts?

check the heatshields.........

when women start complaining there is usually an underlying reason!

also been a few issues with drivebelt tensioners making rattly noises at low revs............

Hi guys, ive had my 04 stivo since the begining of this year. anwyay it makes a few weird noises, one which i think is the gear selector cables which i learnt after browsing this forum. It sounds like rattling from under the car and cames and goes. If it is that, i have come to learn that there is no real solution for this...true?

2nd is, my gf keeps saying my car sounds like a diesel motor cause when its at low revs it makes (like take off at too low a rev, not to the point where its goings to stall but at about 1500-2000k).....well.....diesel sounding noise. Do all stivos sorta sound like this? Had this since i got it and all was stock.

The car has perfect service records every 10thous and the was in perfect nick when i got it. Theres nothing wrong with it, and it runs fine, but my missus is starting to bug me.lol

Any ideas or thoughts?

check the heatshields.........

when women start complaining there is usually an underlying reason!

modifying the throttle body and inlet manifold would only yield good gains with some more internal work. throttle body is already a good size and the inlet ports on the head and manifold are quite large too. don't waste your money on something like this if you aren't going to change cams and do other internal work to make more power.

where not talking a lot of money - i got the exhaust manifold for around $80 your money and i can get the inlet and throttleboby for around $140.........

cams are something i have been thinking about, the only ones i know of for the 2zz-ge are Piper cams - they claim to improve low down torque and give a few more ponies at the top end, they have a dyno chart on there website. If anyone has tried these i would be interested to hear or if you are running differnt cams your reviews are wanted!!

i'm not talking about money but moreso about time and effort for work that mighten yield a lot of gains without other additional mods. Superdave is currently looking into cams here in Brisbane through a guy i know. He is a guru and is doing some R&D on cams for the 2ZZ

keen too see the results..............

dont mind wasting a bit of time playing with me toys! i can see your point - inlet are cast and dont have the lips but while i can get them at a good price of a decent seller................... no harm in trying? was hoping someone had done similar.............

modifying the throttle body and inlet manifold would only yield good gains with some more internal work. throttle body is already a good size and the inlet ports on the head and manifold are quite large too. don't waste your money on something like this if you aren't going to change cams and do other internal work to make more power.

where not talking a lot of money - i got the exhaust manifold for around $80 your money and i can get the inlet and throttleboby for around $140.........

cams are something i have been thinking about, the only ones i know of for the 2zz-ge are Piper cams - they claim to improve low down torque and give a few more ponies at the top end, they have a dyno chart on there website. If anyone has tried these i would be interested to hear or if you are running differnt cams your reviews are wanted!!

picked up a manifold today - the fella got back in touch after i emailed him again.

Where's the original thread gone?

yeah....

where has it gone ???? hhhmmmmm

deleted i guess ....

oh well, good luck in all that ...........

dont know why it would be deleted - its fairly obvious when you look at the manifold where its inefficiencies are.

i remember seeing a post of superdave saying about porting the throttlebody?

also i'm thinking of buying a inlet manifold - any gains to be had? but i'm thinking to increase the internal diameter of the throttlebody will require a visit to an engineering shop?and what about the butterfly? and i suppose the same with the part of the manifold that the throttlebody connects to?

picked up a manifold today - the fella got back in touch after i emailed him again.

Where's the original thread gone?

- it all becomes clear! Nice one rollamods, Top man.

will let you know how i get on. I sourced a manifold but the fella let me down so will have to source another, shouldnt be too much trouble.

Thanks for the replies so far. sorry for my late response but i've been on the road all week.

rollamods i gather you know a bit about this. i was talking to my mate who's a biker and he always mods his gaskets to fit perfect so they cant cause any restriction. i'm not sure why you say not to match the size of header port to the size of the gasket........ can you shed some more light on the subject?

i have been following the TRD vs thread with great interest..........

i would never have thought to mod the stock manifold and was surprised to see how inefficient it is. I have hopefully sourced a second-hand stock manifold with the view of porting it. I have a pro compressor which is more than upto the task - but what sort of grinding/deburring equipment do you recommend, not necessarily makes but more specs and grades of grinding equipment and any techniques or problems you may have come up against.

i see that the manifolds are then heat treated - would heat wrap work as well?

Any advice, hints or suggestions is very appreciated

Hey guys...

In my descision making process for buyin springs and shocks i came across a TRD spring/strut package which i could get at a very decent price through a mate who deals TRD in HK.

I just asked my local Suspension Guru about the TRD suspension.. and his comment was... "why pay the extra for a KYB Strut?" I was stunned to say the least and after a bit of research... he's right... The Sportivo TRD Shockabsorber is Built by KYB.

Infact a lot of "Sports" Suspension options built by OEM's are made by KYB, Mitsubishi VRX for one.

Thought you'd all like to know this if you plan on running a Spring/Strut combo at all.

regards

Andy

TRD dont make anything themselves - they hace access to Toyota's oem suppliers like KYB,Ferodo ect and make the same but to TRD spec not Toyota spec. same as TTE dont make anything themselves - eibach springs, remus b/box, eaton superchargers.........

wont stop me buying a TRD set-up in the future.

Good luck!! It ain't as easy as it looks.....

Your comment about TRD is exactly why the poll is useless. Everyone knows the name and will buy it just because it's TRD.

Those blind idi0ts ......

Slap a TRD stick on those port polished haeders ....

Let' see about that result!

Maybe i should put ........

1) Stock Headers

2) Port Polished Stock headers with TRD sticker on it!

:P

a lot of people will go for TRD as they are a trusted brand who only sell quility products - although i cant comment on american TRD stuff. you seem a bit disgrunteled that peeps have voted for TRD but that makes no sense. I voted for TRD but i am gonne try a modded stock first as i aint loaded! if money was no object there is no doubt i would buy the TRD one - but if money was no object i would have the high comp TRD pistons too......... in fact everything that could be replaced with TRD stuff would be.

Good luck!! It ain't as easy as it looks.....

Your comment about TRD is exactly why the poll is useless. Everyone knows the name and will buy it just because it's TRD.

nothing worth while is ever easy - but there's only one way to learn........

I'll need a bit of luck - anyone got any pointers or advice it's more than welcome................

I voted TRD just because of the brand - being reading what you guys and some of the links provided...............

i'm picking up a second-hand stock manifold this weekend!! i have a pro compressor so just need the grinding kit

will let you know my results.......

how many of you use a BBQ to cook your food when there is a cleaner way to cook?

Um, most BBQ's are gas. Can't really get any more efficent than that, unless you like your meat raw.

Philistein!! gas BBQ - i thought they were for jesses who dont like mucky hands?

Anyway - get them part numbers to you soon.......

Pads look the business - any thoughts on discs? swaying towards Tarox grooved or there sports japan discs but appears they dont make rears to match? waiting for an email back but would like front and rears to match............

its a common mod to do here in the UK. he obviously hasnt done his research as you need to replace the second lambda sensor with a dummy one which provides the ECU the signal that all is ok - but these lead to problems so its only a mod worth doing if you only have the lambda sensor before the cat.

Interestingly Toyota themselves were very against the compulsary fit of cats as they said the car uses more fuel as the cat restricts the car. they said the way forward was to make engines as effecient as possible so they use less fuel and burn cleaner. Toyota was starting to use lean burn engines but said the cat ruined them. how can any of you get on him about polluting - most of you are driving performance cars which are very polluting and how many of you use a BBQ to cook your food when there is a cleaner way to cook?

the TRD pads arrived today

just need some decent discs to go with them. probably some grroved Tarox discs - unfortunately they dont do rears to match.

worth the money! looks good me thinks.......

I'm planning to get this kit here.. what doo you guys think?

I finally decided to goo turbo for the coralla.. i still love the corolla.. it just i want something faster.. i know i can goo for a nissan or subaru, but to many people have it.. sleeper all the way...scare them off hahaha

absolutely tasteless! looks like what the lil d1ckheads do to Corsa's over here. Sleeper car looking like that? lay off the bong..........