jaybee

Definately be looking at the injection pump. Or the pump's timing atleast. Also check for vacuum leaks and make sure the vsv's are working correctly. Black smoke indicates a fuel/mixture problem. So forget about the turbo/rings/valve stems etc.

Agreed^^^..Split boots are horrible. Such a pain in the ***** to fit and you can't clean the joint out properly.

If you havent noticed a clicking type noise on full lock, then i'd recommend just replacing the boot. The boots themselves are pretty cheap. Around $10-$20 non-gen. And usually an hour labour to pull the shaft out, dismantle, clean, replace the boot and grease then throw it back together. Definately not necessary to replace the shaft unless you're experiencing the dreaded clicking noise.

~Josh

The amount of work is impressive but what was he thinking using the FE motor. Coulda' made the power much easier with a GE head.

I lost my phone number. Can I have yours?

Toyota employee right here! Generally it is the last 3 of the VIN but each dealer also has their own specific code. I have a list of them at work if you know which dealer the car originally came from. Otherwise you can guess 10 times then it will be locked out. But thats not the end of it. You can bring it to a dealership and we can unlock it for you using our decoder box. We'll need to pull the headunit out to do it so there is a small fee. Only a small price to pay for a free headunit

~Josh

ISCV seconded....As it happens, I cleaned one on a 5s this morning. Made a huge improvement. Go buy a can of throttle body and carby cleaner, take your air box off at the throttle body. You'll see an odd shaped hole just before the throttle butterfly. Spray the cleaner in the hole, then turn your ignition on (dont start it ) and spray it again. Put you air box back on and start it. It'll take a bit of cranking as the cleaner doesnt combust as well as air and fuel. You should definately notice a difference.

~Josh

Forget about the warranty claim idea. We're not stupid. We can tell the difference between a faulty part and one thats been broken.

~Josh

It was all staged. They asked Paris Hilton first but surprisingly, she wasnt keen. It was on the radio this morning

If the car definately doesnt pull to one side under braking then you can pretty much rule out seized or sticking caliper slides or pistons and uneven line pressure from the master cylinder. The only possible thing left (though highly unlikely) is a dodgy set of pads.

~Josh

If you were gonna get a golf Youd be stupid not to get an r32 mk5 it's better manual than with the dsg auto in it manual is More fun. And at a $6000 and more price tag for when you need to replace the dsg box I'd go for the Manual any day

If u want a vw ask me... I work for them

I work for Veedub too and the GTI with the DSG is heaps more fun to drive than a manual R32! Although the 32 does sound sweet the awesomely dirty turbo 'pop' noise the GTI gives between gears is almost better than sex. Almost... Plus the DSG GTI is faster..Hands down

And you'd ditch the GTI before its out of warranty anyway so dont worry buying new gearboxes.

~Josh

My Sportivo in High Rpm will shudder a tad when i hard change... i have to ease into the gear.

likewise but only 1st -2nd

I've never experienced this shudder before. I'd have to fault it myself before I could say what it could be. Maybe if you're heading to my area one day you could take me for a run.

~Josh

instead of replying to someone's PM with a step-by-step guide of how you did your clutch adjustment, you should post it up in your thread so everyone can benefit :)

The link I posted earlier has a step by step with detailed photos. Its not my documentation but its pretty much the same as what I did...I can get some more specific photos of exactly what I did if people want. Just have to wait a week as ill be out of town this long weekend

~Josh

The Golf GTI is an effing brilliant little car with the DSG box

That's good to hear mate!

Although the clutch adjustment issue has been noted and someone did write down your method beforehand already.

Yea I was just notified of that in a PM. Hadn't seen it anywhere before so i thought id throw it out there.

Hey mate, Im kinda keen to give the clutch adjustment to my Camry. Reckon you can post it up for me? or pm me with the info? cheers :)

I'm not sure whether its worth it for you depending on what problem you are having. This is just designed for the Stivos with hard shifting in high RPM. Let me know what symptoms you are having and we may be able to work out the fix. Or here is the info somebody just sent me about the adjustment. You never know, it may be what your Camry needs.

Josh, please tell me your located in Brisbane! :o I have the document for how the clutch should be set, and noone has done it properly for me yet. It's driving me nuts...

Gav.

Sorry mate. I'm located in God's Country. AKA Sydney's Northern Beaches

Hi all,

Just thought I'd post up a bit of info on something I did to my Stivo last weekend.

Ive been looking through these forums for a while and noticed a lot of people talking about not being able to shift at high rpm and I also suffered this problem. It seems the common solution is a clutch replacement. Which does work as ive replaced a few stivo clutches at work under warranty for this concern. But if your car is out of warranty, it can be a costly exercise. And I didn't believe that this is the only fix. As my car has only 19000kms on it and with the 'conservative' way I drive my car, I know my clutch wouldn't have worn out yet.

So I decided to adjust the clutch. Im sure many of you mechanically minded people out there are thinking "but is hydraulic. You cant adjust it". But you can adjust the clutch master cylinder pushrod throw. Its an adjustment at the clutch pedal which, if wound out, will incease the amount of fluid displaced therefore causing the slave to throw out further and in turn, disengage the clutch further. So I did this, jumped in the car, let it warm up then went for a thrash. And i tell you what! It is so much more fun to drive. All the way to the limiter in 1st, pop in the clutch and then a nice smooth (and fast) shift to 2nd and you're still in lift. Absolutely brilliant. I highly recommend this to anybody having this problem.

If anybody wants more info on how to do this, shoot me a PM and ill work out some pics and insrtuctions.

Oh and the other little 'mod' I did at the same time was remove the air intake tube to the air box. It looked as though its only about an inch and half in diameter, so I pulled it out, went for a drive and was all excited about my car again. Its much more throaty and definately has a little bit more pull to it.

These are two of the best changes Ive made to the rolla and best of all, they cost me NOTHING!

~Josh

If its genuinely just to diagnose a fault, then your best bet is to swap the ecus and the ignition barrels. That way no recoding or key cutting is necessary. Its a simple 5 minute job to swap the barrels if you actually have the keys and are not just a thief. And no, I wont tell you how to get the barrel out if you dont have the key

~Josh

Clutch is fubarbed dude. Probably. Or the hydraulic side of the clutch system

There is a common problem with the passenger front sunroof drain tube not being connected at all. If any damaged has been caused by the leak, it will be covered under warranty providing the vehicle is still in its warranty period.

~Josh

by the way i have an advanced diploma in mech engineering and a cert iv for advanced welding, i think i know whats going on.

Then you probably dont need a manual to tell you how to replace a clutch.....

All the unnecessary defensiveness aside, If you can be more specific on what you would like info on, I am able to get it for you off the SARIS website. Even we (the dealerships) don't receive repair manuals in paper form or even CD form anymore. Its all on a website which can only be accessed by the dealership.

~Josh

The repair manuals wont tell you how to service your car. Thats just general automotive mechanical knowledge. The repair manual is there to diagnose faults and remove/inspect/install parts. I suggest you leave it to a professional if you need a book to tell you how to do it

~Josh

The auto oil IS designed to be changed and as such there is a drain plug for it. The engine oil drain plug is on the drivers side of the car and the filter sits right next to the sump.

~Josh

Unfortunately, replacing the pollen filter will only be masking your smelly problem. The cause is bacteria growing on your A/c evaporator. You need to buy a disinfectant spray and pull one of your air ducts off under the dash and spray as close to the evaporator/heater core area as possible. Replacing the filter will help but only by covering the smell. Leaving the air control set to fresh air instead of re-circ will help also. If you do replace the filter, drop a few drops of vanilla essence on it before you stick it in. Our customers love it when we do that.

Oh and if you take your filter tray to your local dealership, they will def. have a filter there that will fit. Most of them are interchangeable between other models

~Josh

I now sell K sport coilovers which are Australian made and have dampener and rebound adj as well as height adjustment. Plus they have all the mounts for brake lines unlike some of the other cheaper brands available. Have got some pics somewhere will post em up. Sell for about $1700 ish from memory and are available for ZZE 122/3 Corolla as i have sold a set and would imagine ZRE's are not far behind in being released....

Got k sports installed in my 123 if you want pics. Very happy with them too.

Yes you do. I thought it was a joke to begin with

^^^^^^Agreed. Why were you even chasing them in the first place? All they did is give you the finger. Grow up and dont be a danger on our roads.