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Eargunk

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Posts posted by Eargunk

  1. Hi, im still doing my plans for my project car:

    Im looking for a subwoofer & amp, competition grade and can pump out huge DB but have some restirctions

    -The amp can feed the woofer efficiently but only use 1 battery per amp (this crosses out the 10k warhorse kicker amp)

    -Money is no limit

    -RCA will be attached to a processor and not the head unit (for higher voltage)

    -Purchased in person and not over the net (easier warrenty, i know they wont cover abuse but looking for faulty products)

    -Size of box is no limit (removing rear seats)

    -Can be 2 amps running 1 woofer

    any recommendations? and i will double ply dynamatt extreme and the plate dynamatt and will be run in properly

  2. did you rob a freight truck hehehe

    I got my paseo brought up from sydeny, freight was cheap, only costed 2 cases of XXXX, my neighbour drives up and down there and had a free spot.

    Freight must cost you hell alot, i was quoted 500 and it was to the holding place or truck depo and not to the door.

    pretty looking car and i didnt relise you own so many cars.

  3. i wish i had thoes kinda buses when i was at school, the buses i had was slow, noisy, drove on the motor way without seatbelts and had metal poles running over the top and when the bus driver screwed the hill start, everyone would scream and get their head smacked on the pole.

    "Home to school in 5 minutes compared to 60" Rocket Bus!!!

    Now i wanna see a Jet washing machine, ive seen a jet ute, jet van, jet car, jet mini, a jet bus, a jet table.

  4. If you have some skills in fibre glassing you could do what i did and build pods to house 6.5 inch speakers, i had 4" but wernt happy with its low tones (didnt have an umf to it and is generally restricted in design, most expensive one ive found for 4" are focals and went for $400 compared to 6.5" where they can run past $1k) IMO buying cheap means you have to buy and buy again.

    post-9766-1237794368_thumb.jpg

    have a look at my front speakers, it has a tweeter (the small round thing on the door, was suppose to be on the side of the side mirrors but housing didnt fit) and the woofer (big circle thing in the door) the filter is a box which you hide somewhere (its sitting in the door in my car)

    post-9766-1237794416_thumb.jpg

    but if your lucky you'll find 400$ speakers in a freshly wrecked WRX at the wreckers and grab it for 20$ or so.

  5. I got a pdx 4.100 rated at 130 true rms, i wanna know what happens if i bridge my fronts (my backs are extremely crap) so its 260rms and its rated at 80rms, my mate has done it to his SPX-17PRO which is rated at 100 but hes got 400rms or 350rms going to it

  6. inverting makes it look cool it makes the box a tiny bit smaller. downside (notice the left one pointing away from the amps) it creates a magnetic field outside the box which can effect speaker sound quality if its close enough.

  7. i have the imprint set up its clear (my analysis line was all over the place) buts its time consuming, you have to have all your speakers powered by an amp and the RCAs go into the imprint system (and make sure you set your head unit to it or your ears will bleed, extremely loud at 1volume). then you use your laptop to hook it up and use a mirco phone (its included if you buy a KTX-h100M) and hear "bloop bloop bloop" from all speakers, then you move the microphone, its 10-15 minutes per seat/mic position and there is 8 or 6 positions, i cant remember, then you choose your prefered equaliser (linear, accending, flat, decending).

    But since i removed my rears and now going to bridge them to the fronts, i only use the imprint thingy for expanding my controls on the head unit (can act as a big filter, put in speaker delays, control the amount of gain, change the phasers of woofers etc.)

    another note, if you invert your sub and you change it to 180 degrees instead of reversing the wires, imprint detects it as non inverted.

    In conclusion:

    If your not into spending hours ear tuning it to your liking this is a short cut and a nice short cut aswell, got a 93% from a car magazine

  8. if its in a sealed box, around 0.8 cubic feet (which what i have) its clear but still punches hard when you crank it up. i had 1 for 2 weeks, it was sweet, once i installed my 2nd one i had to tune it for less bass. but its really clear, some people classifly it as a SQ/SPL woofer. 1 woofer will still shake your car up and give you chest compressions.

    make sure you run it in (keep it at a low volume) until the rubber is soft, it increases the clearness of the bass (an upside of buying second hand if you know the owner doesnt abuse)

    and its a MRP-M500.

  9. I finally put everything in my car and decided to show it plates and all (instead of bit by bit like i did in the development of my car in the audio section)

    The exterior is stock as could be except debading and paseo in chrome

    post-9766-1237359628_thumb.jpg

    post-9766-1237359673_thumb.jpg

    over 1 year of changing set ups (went through 3 of em) and ended up with inverted

    post-9766-1237359823_thumb.jpg

    Front passanger side has a digital voltmeter (installed today) and a fire extinguisher, which i use to cool beverages and ignore the auto stick

    post-9766-1237359888_thumb.jpg

    driver side, noticed my front pods. ignore the tweeters, it was suppose to be on the side view mirrors but the pods didnt fit.

    post-9766-1237359993_thumb.jpg

    And my imprint box thingy in my glove compartment (i know its messy, but black material covers it)

    post-9766-1237360848_thumb.jpg

    and my lights :), the inside ones when turned on drops voltage by 1.5

    post-9766-1237360030_thumb.jpg

    post-9766-1237360040_thumb.jpg

    post-9766-1237360898_thumb.jpg

    A total of 11 neons, 7 in front (one in glove compartment) and 4 at the back with aerpro million colour under the car(was 13 but someone elbowed 1 and the black one made colours trippy and UV markers are perminent, dont write valentine messages with them)

    the switches for the interior lights, (the top box is for trunk neon which pulses, flashes white and blue)

    post-9766-1237360049_thumb.jpg

    Im looking to removing the rear seats (when my brothers know how to drive) adding another 2 subs and amp and upgrading the fronts which will go the back.

    I wanted the plates BASSME but noone would lend me their credit car for such a big purchase....

  10. if your getting a 10 inch or 12 inch type r subwoofer, the minimum amp you need is a MRP-M500 (as it runs 500rms at 2ohms). the mrp-f600 is a 4 channel amp which you could bridge, but monoblocks run subwoofers better as it doesnt send in the high tones. if your running 2 i suggest getting a mrp-m1000, i got a 850, its loud but its not its full potential. if your going to 15 inch, i suggest a mrp-m850. but make sure you have room in your trunk before buying it, the box is fairly big for the 12 inch and up. (the box and sub combo in the alpine catalogue is fairly big and make sure you trunk is high enough (i made a custom box so it has only a couple of mm clearence from my trunk roof.

  11. not at the moment, another 2 weeks or so cause its been raining and they havent painted the outside. But if im at my new place, my car will be parked outside next to a dangerous round about.... its not hard to spot

    Could i run the hot wire on the gauge from any hot wire in my car eg. neons (positive side next to the switch which is connected to the postitive terminal) or does it have to be in the fuse box?

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