I have searched high and low over the internet and haven't managed to find anyone else that has mentioned this issue in the past.
In the past couple of days I have noticed a constant dull thud every couple of seconds which I first assumed to be some fatal mechanical problem but after doing a walk around noticed the headlight clicking back and forth. I've now noticed that the headlight beam is pointing very low and can only assume there is a motor driving the headlights up and down to compensate for the angle of attack the car is driving at. I have since confirmed watching the headlight beam while parked at night jumping up and down with each tap of the headlight.
Has anyone else experience something similar and/or have any suggestions on how I can fix it? Would appreciate any help.
thanks yes at the last service they said " RHS lower control arm rear bushing is cracked recommended replacing" they said its safe to drive until the next service in october and it should be replaced then, they quoted $1300, yes someone else also said thats expensive. l think l will get a second quote from another mechanic. if l spend the money getting this repaired then l would hope it lasts another two years before something serious or expensive goes wrong
May not be a case of "heavier duty", but Australian-built cars needed to have a minimum percentage of Australian-sourced parts in order to qualify for government subsidies. Hence, a lot of the mid-90s Toyotas would use steering/brakes/transmission parts etc from TRW or the like (which had a presence here to support Holden/Ford/Mitsubishi/Toyota) rather than Aisin/Denso Japan. Unfortunately it also meant that unique-to-Australia part numbers and VINs often don't show up in worldwide catalogues.
If the thread issue is anything like my AE102 Corolla, the TRW rack has M16x1.5mm threads on the tie rods (both ends) whereas the (probably) Aisin Japan one has M14x1.5mm. At worst, you can use these thread sizes and the length dimensions you know are right to sort through locally available catalogues and hopefully find something that matches.
I would guess that it is front passenger side control arm. Similarly we had a 1998 Toyota Camry owned since new. It would have been 2018 or so that a RWC was required to transfer registration within the family. RWC inspector had said that the vehicle was in great condition overall for its age but had failed because of the front control arm bushes and also worn bushes for the rear sway bar. I checked and there was definite movement in the front suspension due to these bushes being definitely broken. I replaced both control arms [complete assemblies; non-genuine] and fixed the rear sway bar bushes. Cost of parts was <$200. A few years later, I found out after the event this Camry was sold due to an oil leak. Not happy at the time but this son got himself a used BMW which he prefers and it is now his problem to keep it running.
There is a fair bit of time and effort involved and a wheel alignment would also be required.
$1300 estimate for this repair appears high so further details should be requested. "Nothing seriously wrong" is a pass mark for today. Remember your vehicle is now 20 years old
Previous partner was advised by her proven trustworthy mechanic to expect more repairs after 12 months for her later model Toyota Corona. That advice and previous rust repairs is what prompted us to trade in that vehicle on a demonstrator new vehicle.
End of the day, it is your decision. Choose wisely.
hi just to update , l got it serviced today and they said the lower control arm rear bushing is cracked and needs to be replaced for $1,300 within a year , apart from that they said theres nothing seriosly wrong ,l cannot decide if l should get it repaired and keep the camry or sell it and get a newer car
Hi John yes a very difficult one to say yes or no on, as Ashley said it will always come down to what has been replaced over time and when. With regular servicing and care attention and love Toyota's can last 400,000 Plus but then it comes down to how you drive and good quality parts used when replacing. I do hope you get the mileage you are after and really I don't see why not mate.
Recently I had to put new wheel bearings in the front put all together have a Torque wrench looked up bolt setting in ft lbs was 203 did this and nut stripped it was a genuine Toyota bolt that cam with the Rav 4 2003 it has only 157000 Komsomol on it so does anyone know the correct ft lbs as the Toyota information is totally wrong
Has yours deteriorated or missing ? I'm guessing one or the other and I bet the heat transmission would be unbearable up there in Qld.
Plenty of aftermarket insulation options. I'd use the foil lined type.
Amazon have plenty to choose from. Search "Car Engine Insulation" and there's plenty on offer.
With servicing on time, I would expect nothing serious or expensive with the drive train i.e. engine and transmission.
Which of the following major parts are still original or have been replaced. If so, when? :
1. Struts - front and rear
2. Brake rotors - front and rear
4. Starter motor
Essentially with older vehicles, it is a case of driving them with regular maintenance until there is an uneconomical repair bill.