Anyone with any luck. I also have a 2010 Gxl that won't go past 4th and 5th and also cruise doesn't work. I've replaced the accelerator pedal. Also when I disconnect the battery and reconnect it, everything works fine for about 5 min and then cuts out.
I have a 2018 Camry SL, 4 cylinder automatic. Today, the rear left proximity sensor started to constantly make the sound while I'm in reverse. It's displaying the red icon in my dashboard. Could it be something that needs cleaning off the sensor? How can I find the sensor? If I need a repair, how much might it cost? I'm in the northern suburbs of Melbourne.
Also, would the other sensors work normally in the meantime?
EDIT: I notice some circular disk-like plug in the left of the rear bumper bar is loose and sitting slightly inside the bumper bar. Is that related?
Hello everyone, new here.
I'm waiting to install a dash cam hardwire kit into my car and I've not done it before. Been watching lots of videos of how to route the cables and I need to remove this trim to access another panel to hide away the hardwire kit transformer.
Just don't want to break any clips or trim. I'm looking at how to remove the trim right next to the camry foot plate. Suggestions?
Thanks so much
All of a sudden our air conditioner doesn’t switch on when the car is started and we have to go into climate and reset it every time we start the car and then sometimes the recirculate button switches to fresh.
Hi Ash / guys,
I actually have been liaising with Tony via email & I'm yet to reply to him as I have been busy myself. He did in actual fact report back very promptly that all is very well with his car, as I expected & as such have proceeded to do the work required which was done this Sunday 18th Feb just gone.
I jacked up the car & leveled it off as best as I could but I can now see I was off by about 7mm lower in the rear after confirming the raised & on ground levels. My mate mechanic confirmed at the time that it's no big deal & makes little to no difference in the end.
What I also confirmed after the pan drain was that only 1.5L came out ! I'm also 100% sure the red "straw" fitting was not screwed all the way in meaning a lower hold capacity in the pan? Anyhow, I was actually also gob-smacked as the oil started to pour out into the pan & then into my measuring bottle just how clean & red it looked for 98,149kms. So much so I was in two minds about pouring it back in & calling it a day for a while longer.
But since I purchased this 20L drum of LV back in Feb 2021, I thought I better use it & just go through with the whole operation. I connected to the "return line" & commenced flushing about 1L at a time, using 2 identical bottles all measured up, 1 for old oil & another for new so that what came out goes back in. There was a 3rd 5L bottle with new fresh oil as it was easier to pour than the 20L drum. I kept notes of the whole process as I flushed out a total of 7.3L in 6 individual attempts. So all in all 8.8L of new fluid plus I added an extra 0.5L for the adjustment phase.
I prepped for the adjustment by having an extra 1L on hand just in case nothing came out with tools also at the ready. I plugged in my new Autel MK808S scan tool which is virtually identical to Tony's & is the same model as my mate mechanic & confirmed A/T oil temp to be below 40C - it was in fact at 34.3C.
According to the Toyota RM for the GSV50R using the intelligent tester, ie: laptop with Techstream or a scan tool, you are supposed to switch "TC and TE1" - ON before starting the engine, observing the dash lcd for "D" signal as you quickly cycle the tranny b/w N & D for 6 seconds or more. The "D" will light up for 2 seconds then go off completely, which it did. This causes the engine to go into fluid temperature detection mode. Then select "P" on tranny, release foot brake & on the scan tool switch "TC and TE1" - OFF. Doing this activates engine idle speed control mode which becomes active as soon as the oil hits 35C & at which point raises the engine idle speed to a constant 800rpm & keeps it there to precisely adjust oil temps until it's switched off, which it did on queue.
I waited for 5 minutes for the oil to reach 40C & as soon as it did the engine fan came on precisely at the same time. I had the scan tool on the windscreen showing a custom list of parameters - coolant temp, engine speed, TC terminal on & A/T oil temp 1 on the same screen. Engine speed hovering about 800rpm, temps all looked ready. I quickly got under the car on my creeper, got my right shoulder stuck under there as it was a tight fit, lost the drain plug in the pan whilst draining, found it again, flow started to trickle & as such I closed it off with 41.2C on the screen. Piece of cake ! Oh, I added the final 200ml in the end as per Toyota Adjustment TSB as posted many times here by Ash.
I didn't think the Aurion could get any smoother or quieter but it has. Despite the oil looking great for it's age, the shifts between all gears especially the lowest are impeccable, smoother, quicker change of gear, acceleration & deceleration. I'm really amazed at the 2GR/U660E masterpiece. You may as well call it an EV.
So job done in the end, all that procrastination & worry of fluffing the tranny over nothing. As AMD suggests, I may very well re-check/confirm the oil level again in a week or two to be sure, but I've already driven about 150kms in my usual drive routes, hot & cold & it's really pleasing to see a great result thus far. What's also impressive is the Penrite LV oil, a virtual perfect full synthetic swap for the Toyota WS. I love it 🙂
Of course this wouldn't have been possible without the help of all the guys on this forum including Ashley for his persistent knowledge & Tony's for this informative thread. To you all , I thank you 🙂
One final note, I have owned this car since 28K kms & I fully understand its history & know that it has been driven sedately & babied all its life which allows me to get an excellent result with an AT fluid flush. As they say YMMV, especially if the history is questionable.
Interesting timing for your post because I had recently viewed this YouTube video. I then did some follow up on other car forums. One post suggested pre-selling the tyres then replace with the preferred tyres suitable for his driving requirements. Perhaps in the meantime, discuss your requirements with local tyre shops and get a few recommendations for use on dirt roads etc.
Looks like Tony has not seen your post or is super busy working all hours including on call weekend.
Knowing or appreciating Tony's meticulous procedural approach, I fully expect that there has been no noticeable difference between a full flush or a pain drain with gear changes being silky smooth.
I would suggest starting with a pan drain and compare the colour of the drained ATF will new ATF. If a dark colour, then consider a full flush or alternatively do a pan drain and refill and a drive around the block to mix and circulate the ATF. Next step is to do another pan drain and fill. A full flush will replace all of the ATF so going to be good for another 70,000 kms. The pan drain and refill method should be good for 1-2 years, as a general rule.
I have recently purchased a LC300 ZX and not convinced by the stock tyres (Bridgestone Dueler 265/55 R20) as they look too soft for a even gravel road. I understand this is a road based model, but have plans to venture off the tarmac and go on gravel roads. Not intending any serious off-road adventures though.
Has anyone changed their stock tyres? If so what are the tyres used? how is the quality of the tyres and ride, handling, performance change?
Thanks for you quote mate. Now the problem is, when I put on the parking brake on a slope (engine facing down the hill) then it breaks superb. but when I park the car in the slope facing engine up hill then the brake is not stopping steady; it slightly moves backwards. I don't know what can i do to perfect this action? any information provided will be appreciated.