Hiro

Yes, your car has electronic fuel injection (the 'E' in 3RZFE) which means it will have an ECU

14B is a Toyota diesel. 13B is a Mazda rotary. Dig bifference (although there is a 13B Toyota diesel too...).

Ask your friendly local Toyota dealer if they can source you 52114-33480, that appears to be the correct one

This is how it has been with Toyota (and many other manufacturers) for 20+ years

MA61 Supra nose conversion on an RA60/SA63/RA65 coupe body (which has in turn had the roof cut off and custom tail-lights)

Torque steer due to unequal-length driveshafts (the main cause) will usually be to the right (since the LH driveshaft is shorter so it gets more power), not to the left that Aurions suffer from. Crowning of the road is going to play a much more significant part, as are the factory suspension settings (as @campbeam posted, also in these threads)

Yeah they usually have a block on the end of a broomstick so they can sweep it across the whole bottom of the car. 100mm rings a bell but could be different state-to-state Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

If going down the springs route, Lows or Superlows from the main manufactuers I mentioned above (Kings, Lovells etc) will be perfectly fine for the street, Superlows you'll need to watch out for speed bumps and the like and it's advisable you replace shocks at the same time especially if you're still on the original ones. Cheapest option is finding someone selling a second-hand set of springs on Gumtree for $50 or a carton of beer. Anything new is going to cost you at least $300 for all for corners (just for springs, add in shocks and it'll go up to ~$700), and if you want to go for decent coilovers rather than eBay specials you're looking at at least a grand.

You've got coil springs all-round, so the lowering process is simple-as - either buy new lowering springs (such as from Kings or Lovells) or coilovers (plenty of brands out there ranging from dirt-cheap to eye-watering, but you definitely get what you pay for and even the cheapest ones aren't the most cost-effective way). Doing the job yourself is pretty simple too as long as you have a decent mechanical knowledge, a good socket set, spring compressors and ideally a decent rattle gun/impact wrench (since no doubt some of the strut bolts will be tight-as).

By spigots I assume you mean hub-centric rings (which has to do with the centre-bore size, nothing to do with offset), in which case either go to your local tyre shop or eBay and buy the right size (73.1 OD / 54.1 ID), you can get them either in alloy or nylon (I prefer alloy but they are obviously more expensive)

FYI the Altezza RS200 3SGE is the blacktop BEAMS not the redtop (and is designed for RWD layout). The redtop BEAMS (which only has single-VVTi rather than the blacktop's dual-VVTi) is the correct transverse layout and came mainly in the ST202 Celica and SW20 MR2 (but not all models)

It's not a "design fault", cars are not meant to be left with the keys in the ignition for long periods of time. There will always be circuits live at this point (such as dash backlighting, since modern cars have this on all the time now rather than just when you have the headlights on)

Considering you've just proven that what you initially posted was incorrect, yes it does put it to rest.

2002 was the last year of the XV20 and the first year of the XV36 (both came in 3.0L 1MZ form). Being an Altise would make it an XV36. I highly doubt Toyota were selling "test mules" in the first year of production of a new model for an engine that didn't get released for another 4 years in the _next_ series. And the XV36 is a _long_ way from being the "essentially current" bodystyle 1000x more likely you've either you've mis-read the build date or the engine capacity (and the next likely option would be that a previous owner converted it to the 2GR but that raises a bunch of other questions). Did it look like this?

The new Corollas are 5x100