Hiro

What model/year do you have? No such thing as an AE107 in Aus Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

Parts catalogues appear to indicate that is true (and that no other markets had it ie Europe)

I wonder if it's a Sportivo-unique thing then because the US 2ZZ XRSs don't appear to have it nor does the JDM Runx/Allex

Pretty sure the Celica 2ZZ doesn't have the oil level sensor

Are the items in the display actually features on your model? Often dash clusters will have provision for all items that can be fitted to that car (so there only needs to be one cluster manufactured, or maybe one for manual and one for auto). For instance, my 1998 Corolla cluster has an ABS light which never comes on, because ABS isn't fitted to my car (it was an option extra).

If I'm not doing anything with the suspension then I use a low-profile trolley jack on the front tow-hook to lift the whole front-end up, and then jack-stands on the front subframe just next to where the control arms attach (to allow the wheels to droop). If I'm working on the suspension I don't like having the stand right near where the control arm attaches so will usually either do one corner at a time (which can be annoying with the anti-roll bars) or support the body rather than the subframe. Don't have any ramps but they could be useful for ordinary engine maintenance like oil/coolant

Nope, bottom hose (so cool side/engine inlet)

Remember that a lot of Toyota thermostats are installed on the inlet side to the engine/head (ie the "cool" side, or the bottom radiator hose) so they will be rated significantly lower than the boiling temp of the coolant etc unlike thermos installed in the top hose/"hot" side. Need to be careful when comparing temps between engine manufacturers.

I've got a G27 too, it's a solid wheel but I'm starting to look at upgrading as the centre dead-zone in the FFB is really starting to drive me nuts. It's a symptom of the gear-drive that really can't be avoided unless you fork out for an upper-tier Thrustmaster or Fanatec wheel (with belt-drive). Currently set up in an Obutto R3volution sim rig which is also acting as my work-from-home setup (I must admit being able to switch between my sim-rig and my work laptop simply by changing inputs on my monitor and mouse/keyboard is _not_ conducive for work performance...)

Cam cover gasket is easy to do if you're a capable home mechanic (even if your're not actually, it doesn't require anything other than basic tools). Depending on which o-ring it is in the dizzy might make it a bit harder but it is still pretty simple to remove and install yourself (there is a flat on the shaft so it can only go in one way). The control arms are also fairly easy to remove and install if you have a jack and a rattle gun, so really it all comes down to getting the parts and having a mate who can press the new bushes in (or a workshop that'll do it for cheap), get a bunch of mat

Nah Toyota started playing around with variable valve timing in the early 90s, back in those early days they were literally on/off systems triggered only at certain RPMs and throttle openings (much like the old variable intake systems such as TVIS). By the time the NZ-series came around the second-generation VVT system (VVTi, with "intelligence") was well established, with infinitely variable timing (in the 1NZ case across a 60-degree range on the intake cam). There may well be a particular change that occurs in the VVTi parameters at that RPM, but it isn't the entirety. Engines naturally h

VVTi doesn't "kick in" in modern motors, it is always running and is always varying the timing. Not like the Lift changeover on the 2ZZ or the older non-intelligent VVT systems on the 20V 4AGEs.

I believe every J90 Prado had the dual tank except for the 4-cylinder petrol RV model.

TWM went out of business, so if you're after a new one then the MWR one wins by default [emoji14] I've actually got the MWR Celica short-shifter in my AE102 Corolla (the housings are almost identical), it is significantly shorter which means you need to space the housing up (the ones that come with the MWR kit don't quite fit the Corolla) so the shifter cable cup clears the tunnel. Only real downside I've noticed is that the pivot ball feels slightly undersized compared to stock so there is a bit of slop/rock especially side-to-side Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

No such thing as a "T20" gearbox in Toyota-world (there are T-series manual gearboxes, but a 20 would indicate a 2-speed). Would help if you give the actual code for the engine too, as "1.8L fuel-injected" could refer to several different engines (which has a flow-on effect for gearboxes too) Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk