Hiro

My experience is yes, all screw-type Toyota oil filler caps are the same size (there may be one or two exceptions out there, but for instance TRD only ever listed 2 different oil filler caps - one screw, one bayonet, and then a third unique one for the 86 since it's a Subie engine)

'95 Celica ZR will be a 5SFE which means MAP, not MAF. The intake air-temp sensor normally plugs in to the air filter housing but the location isn't _super_ critical as long as it is still connected (hell, I've had cars run with the sensor just dangling in the engine bay reading hot air).

With a few exceptions there are basically only two different Toyota oil filler caps - screw or bayonet

For me, having the MAF still in the system will allow for me to revert back to the factory ECU if necessary (whether it'll run ok with a likely too-big intake and knobbly cams is a different story), but I would prefer a clean-looking intake (plus not have to worry about sensor fouling or flow irregularities screwing with the reading)

I'm still in two minds about running the on-board MAP sensor on the E440D, sure it fixes a big issue with the intake but then you have to worry about running a vacuum line all the way in to the cabin (and in my mind the longer a vacuum line is, the less accurate it is)

Early gen Celica prices have been on the rise for years, a rusted-out barn-find shell missing body panels would still fetch a few grand, a genuine complete flat-light in roadworthy condition could easily be close to $10k especially of it had a 2TG or some other desirable parts. Honestly, price-guides like Carsales/Redbook are worthless when cars start to become collectors items, find an enthusiasts group like Toymods or Garage Celica and you'll get a much better idea as to what it is worth currently. Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

The unfortunate reality is that too many people are unwilling to take the leap (or unable to take the risk) in buying an alternative fuel vehicle, precisely because of those 3 factors. Societal inertia means that even if people are conscious of things like climate change or the limited lifespan of fossil fuels, they are reticent to make changes because they feel that their input is ineffective or irrelevant, or just plain lazy (it's someone else's/tomorrow's problem). The problem is that we need people making the leap in order to reduce price (through greater demand and mainstream adoption)

What's worse is when they use the rattle-gun AND don't tighten them up in a star pattern...... Whilst not everyone will carry a torque wrench around with them (nor is it an "essential" tool for most processes), changing a tyre by the side of the road should always be seen as a temporary/emergency fix and the nuts checked properly when you return home (or take it to a garage to get the flat fixed/replaced). Lots of specs in workshop manuals can be ignored, or treated as "good enough", but there are listed torque specs for EVERY bolt/nut on the car, and often for a very good reason.

Why go to the effort of swapping internals? Same engine/series, so the gearbox as a whole will most likely swap over entirely (or maybe just by swapping a few mounts)

Tried Amayama?

Which model? '85 was a changeover year from the AE71 (RWD) to the AE82 (FWD) and they are _vastly_ different from each other. In saying that though, auto-to-manual swaps of that vintage are pretty straight-forward due to the lack of EFI, you basically need the appropriate mounts/crossmember, pedal box (and maybe a hole or two drilled in the firewall), clutch master/slave and lines (or cable, depending on the model) as well as the transmission and driveshafts. If you have two cars side-by-side 90% of the work is simply unbolting stuff from one and bolting it in to the o

Sometimes but not always the case, I'd be more worried about wear if it was a highway patrol car as they would have seen much more in the way of pursuits etc. GD cars that rarely get thrashed but idle for long periods would be like taxis, they can rack up very high ks because they go through fewer cold-startup cycles.

Other way to remove studs is to thread two nuts on there and then try and unscrew the inner nut, gets more purchase than a pair of vice grips and less likely to strip the thread (although you need to have enough thread sticking out for it to work)

Most C-series transmissions will mount up with the appropriate brackets. I actually have a Celica C60 sitting in my AE102 as we speak using the factory C52 brackets (just one additional stay on the top gearbox mount that doesn't fit, due to the selector on the Celica 'box being on the top/front rather than the back). The issue will be the bellhousing pattern, as the later C-series boxes come behind ZZ-series engines which have a different bolt pattern to the A-series engine (also, if you're indeed looking at a C66M then they are a horrid sequential-manual setup which would be a nightmare

You don't need to press the bushes to measure the size of the eyelets (it doesn't need to be mm perfect, it's pretty obvious once you see them if they are the same size or one large and one small), just pull the cotter pin out and remove the washer