Hiro

Did you not notice all these things that were wrong when you inspected the car to begin with? Checking to see that a car is exactly what it is advertised as should be the _first_ thing you do, before you even contemplate putting money down on it...

Chances are by disconnecting the battery you have reset the ECU and it needs to re-learn. Give it a few trips to try and smooth out again

Been a little while since the last update - 12 weeks/60 days and 48 flights worth of travel for work on one hand, plus my old man passed away in September on the other has meant that this year has basically been a write-off as far as car updates is concerned, but that didn't hamper much the accrual of parts. Latest haul below: 20191224_160022 by Ian Rigby, on Flickr Fidanza lightweight flywheel (3.4kg vs 5.9kg factory) Xtreme HD clutch ARP flywheel and pressure plate bolts (the only Toyota bolts that ARP list for the pressure plate are to suit a Hilux and cost a fortune for no reason, however Skyline ones are dirt-cheap by comparison and same thread, just a little longer) New VVT and VVL solenoids and OCV filters Full VRS kit

Small Toyota engines used in forklifts etc would either be K-series or Y-series. Should be an engine number stamped on the block somewhere, as well as whatever kind of build plate the roller came with. Photos tell a thousand words too, should at least be able to identify the series with a simple photo.

Yes, your car has electronic fuel injection (the 'E' in 3RZFE) which means it will have an ECU

14B is a Toyota diesel. 13B is a Mazda rotary. Dig bifference (although there is a 13B Toyota diesel too...).

Ask your friendly local Toyota dealer if they can source you 52114-33480, that appears to be the correct one

This is how it has been with Toyota (and many other manufacturers) for 20+ years

MA61 Supra nose conversion on an RA60/SA63/RA65 coupe body (which has in turn had the roof cut off and custom tail-lights)

Torque steer due to unequal-length driveshafts (the main cause) will usually be to the right (since the LH driveshaft is shorter so it gets more power), not to the left that Aurions suffer from. Crowning of the road is going to play a much more significant part, as are the factory suspension settings (as @campbeam posted, also in these threads)

Yeah they usually have a block on the end of a broomstick so they can sweep it across the whole bottom of the car. 100mm rings a bell but could be different state-to-state Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

If going down the springs route, Lows or Superlows from the main manufactuers I mentioned above (Kings, Lovells etc) will be perfectly fine for the street, Superlows you'll need to watch out for speed bumps and the like and it's advisable you replace shocks at the same time especially if you're still on the original ones. Cheapest option is finding someone selling a second-hand set of springs on Gumtree for $50 or a carton of beer. Anything new is going to cost you at least $300 for all for corners (just for springs, add in shocks and it'll go up to ~$700), and if you want to go for decent coilovers rather than eBay specials you're looking at at least a grand.

You've got coil springs all-round, so the lowering process is simple-as - either buy new lowering springs (such as from Kings or Lovells) or coilovers (plenty of brands out there ranging from dirt-cheap to eye-watering, but you definitely get what you pay for and even the cheapest ones aren't the most cost-effective way). Doing the job yourself is pretty simple too as long as you have a decent mechanical knowledge, a good socket set, spring compressors and ideally a decent rattle gun/impact wrench (since no doubt some of the strut bolts will be tight-as).

By spigots I assume you mean hub-centric rings (which has to do with the centre-bore size, nothing to do with offset), in which case either go to your local tyre shop or eBay and buy the right size (73.1 OD / 54.1 ID), you can get them either in alloy or nylon (I prefer alloy but they are obviously more expensive)

FYI the Altezza RS200 3SGE is the blacktop BEAMS not the redtop (and is designed for RWD layout). The redtop BEAMS (which only has single-VVTi rather than the blacktop's dual-VVTi) is the correct transverse layout and came mainly in the ST202 Celica and SW20 MR2 (but not all models)