Hiro

Is it a petrol or hybrid model? The petrol has a iCVT where there is a physical first gear (for better off-the-line performance), I wonder if this judder is related to the transmission switching between the CVT and the launch gear.

Check along the bottom of the door skin for drain holes, these are most likely clogged (just poke them out with an old coathanger). You'll always get water in the door as the window tracks cannot seat perfectly, but if it drains properly then you shouldn't have any problems (the electrics inside the door are either sealed or separated from the water by a plastic sheet/skin)

Are the TTR parts the same as what was on the TTR Corolla or MR2? Quite possible the dealer just spec'd it up themselves to try and move some slow-selling base stock, and had it as a demo/display model on the showroom floor. If it has moved a few times it could have been the personal car of a dealer principal (or maybe the principal's wife etc) that they kept after the new model came out.

The Tacoma is a North American (and a few other isolated countries) pickup/ute and is not the same as the Hilux (although it is related). Most of the world (including Australia, where this forum is based) got the Hilux. Also, this thread is 9 years old, and the last post in it was 3.5 years ago.

I'd be checking the plug directly on the back of the headlight housing first. Is it an XV10 or XV20?

If your parkers are coming on when they aren't supposed to (ie with the indicators/hazards) then you've almost certainly got a bad ground somewhere in the circuit, either in the wiring plug or the combination switch.

The P/S pump one is the hardest as it is on the intake side and uses the pump itself to tension the belt - you need to use a pry-bar between the head and the body of the pump to tension it (and hope that you don't accidentally lever off something breakable). I've rarely had to do the A/C belt which is the only one that has a separate idler pulley so not much experience there. When you're removing the alternator too make sure you take note of the way the block goes that the tensioning and locking bolts go in to, makes it much easier to assemble

Alternator is pretty easy to do even without a service manual,, the alternator is the tensioner for that belt so it'll naturally come off as you remove it. In total it's 4 bolts (top pivot bolt, adjuster bolt, adjuster lock bolt, terminal stud) and two bits of wiring, and everything is right there in front of you (one of the best things about the 7AFE compared to the 4AGE is how easy the alternator is to access)

Not mandatory, but the hours count for more. Safer Drivers course counts for 20 hours, and professional instructor lessons are worth triple.

Is the seller by any chance in the US? The Camry came whole range of premium sound options over there which use JBL hardware and most likely has different wiring which is why the seller is asking, I don't believe Aus-built ones had the same option (but I could be wrong).

AE92 Levin/Trueno

That's where a big chunk of my gains are going to come from, AE102 is ~170kg lighter than a Sportivo and 60kg lighter than a Celica, plus I'm almost certain to lose some more weight going to the 2ZZ as the 7A still has a cast-iron block.

Probably just wait and go full aftermarket in the long run, MWR reckon you can still run a Stage 2 cam (MWR or Piper) on a stock ECU but you just won't get the full benefit

Big killer for me cams-wise is that I'm not planning on going aftermarket ECU for a while (it's going to be enough hassle getting the factory ECU wired up first, especially since the Celica ECU is in the engine-bay)

Haven't decided exactly which way I'll go re. clutch and flywheel yet, Exedy HD is always the default backup for me but I do know a few of the 4A guys have had trouble with the cushion springs breaking on them (4A, 7A and 2ZZ use the exact same friction disc). Flywheel will almost certainly be Fidanza but am open to other options. Part of me just wants to throw all-OEM stuff back in until I get the thing up and running (why waste money if I'm going to have problems etc), but another part of me wants to take every opportunity now to do mods that will save a lot of time and effort down the track (cams are another big-ticket item that I'm tossing up whether to go for now or wait until new ECU in the future)