MyRomeo

the stock hp figures are 100% accurate, I took the data direct from my last rolling road session, the nitrous figures are the ones I simulated to give a visual idea as to how the power is delivered, not to show the actual output. simply to try illustrate the smooth delivery a bit better than words could do. as for photos, no, i dont take pics of everything, the only camera i have is on my iphone and when ive been working on my car for a few hours and am covered in dirt the last thing i want to be doing is messing around with a nice clean white phone, that, just to add, has already been dropped a few times taking the previous pictures! at the end of the day this thread is to show you my nitrous installation, i give the background work briefly as I know if i hadnt done so there would have been people asking me if anything else had been done to the car. AE, seeing as your in the UK how about you get yourself up to york raceway and I will show you exactly what my car is capable of on the drag strip? ill quite happily take you on.

chicaboo, here in the UK it is typical to record dyno results as corrected crank figures so yes, the graph is crank hp. I will be on a rolling road later this month (when I get paid!) and will ask for whp rather than crank. as for how strong the nitrous comes on, that is not a concern as the progressive controller means that when the nitrous is activated only 40% (about 40hp) extra is added, this is then ramped up to the full 100%/75bhp over a 3 second period, this helps greatly reduce the initial stress the car is put under. I dare say 75hp in one hit would be too much for the car, either clutch slip, traction issues or worse mechanical failure.

nice one mate :) out of interest how heavy is the stock flywheel? this is one area I will be working on when my clutch needs replaced!

AE and Jeremy, there is quite simply no way in hell I am taking the manifolds off again just to take some photos of the insides, that would take WAY to long. I dont ask people to believe me, I couldn't care less what your childish thoughts are, I posted these pictures of my nitrous installation as I know it is not something common in Aus and thought some members may be interested to see what is out there for their cars. Thanks to those of you who appreciated my input, for you I will get a REAL dyno put up as soon as I can and also try to get a short video. This will not be until after June 25th tho as that is when I next get paid!!!

I clearly stated that the dyno is not 100% accurate and is an indication of power, not a true representation?!

I don't know if you guys are able to use nitrous oxide on the road but I thought that it may be of interest to some of you what I have been fitting to my motor recently. engine is aprox 205bhp NA (induction, ported intake, ported header, 2.5in exhaust) and I run 75bhp progressive Wizards Of NOS on top of that, boy is it fun :) Because free advertising doesnt hurt anyone... the pulsoides, pipes and fogger right next to the throttle body, any further back and the angle is wrong and it just floods the walls. Minimax taking care of business And the bottle, 5lb, not heated at present but I have a heater to go in, just need new pressure switch (soon!) As for performance, this is the on nitrous power against the stock power (pre breathing mods), its not 100% accurate but gives a very good illustration as to the difference this system makes to performance, it is quite simply breath taking. Any comments / questions are more than welcome :)

yup!

ok, I know nothing of the legalities for you guys but know a little about the use of nitrous oxide. I run a 50 shot on my stock 2zz and have known people here run 75+ safely. Firstly, do NOT run a dry system on these engines, you are begging for trouble! get a WET kit (one that adds additional fuel with the nitrous) and you should be able to run up to 50hp safely if set up right and used sensibly. you will need the following throttle switch to only activate at WOT wide open throttle in car master switch to fully disable the system wet kit (such as http://www.noswizard.com/product_desc.php?id=59) thats the one I run, not sure what the exchange rate is UK>AUS tho ONLY use the nitrous at 3500rpm and higher (4500 and higher on 2zz engine) only use it in a gear where the engine is accelerating freely, typically 2nd and 3rd as 1st is just crazy and 4th+ can be too high do NOT hit the rev limiter... EVER when on nitrous! The injector (fogger) needs to be mounted before the throttle body but pointing directly in to the intake manifold, I find sometimes a small angle about 15 degrees from center works best. Personally on the 1zz I wouldn't go much above maybe 35 or 40hp just to keep it safe but 50hp used sensibly and set up well should be safe. Unfortunately I don't know what the law is on nitrous use for you guys, we can use it as we like here :D If you need any more pointers or advice feel free to ask, ill try and help out as much as I can.

there you go mate. This next one shows the inside of the airbox, the white bit being the pipe to the MAF and then to engine, the red and blue bits being my nitrous and fuel pulsoides for my wizards of nos install :) I plan to attach the filter to the end of the white bit by cutting the top of the air box off so it will fit.

I wonder if anyone can shed some light on this, I have available a K&N filter from a 2.5 V6 motor which is plenty big enough for the 2ZZ engine, I want to fit it but seeing as the MAF sensor is in the way and causes all sorts of complications I would like to try the DIY approach. I was thinking of cutting the airbox lid up so that I can use the MAF housing bit to simply attach the K&N filter on to but speaking to my local Toyota dealer they have said that a replacement airbox is GB£135+VAT (bloody hell!!!) And that some customers have fitted the MAF sensor in to the flexi pipe and as long as it is sealed this has not given any problems at all. plus the flexi pipe is much cheaper than the airbox should it go wrong! Has anyone done this or can offer any advice? Another option I have is to use some suitably sized pipe to make a join between flexi pipe and filter that the MAF sensor can live in but for this I would need to know what size pipe I need? Can anyone advise? I can get Stainless, Steel and Plastic pipe so that is not a problem. Also what size hole would I need to drill to house the MAF sensor? As you may guess I am on a very tight budget here! my fave method so far is to cut away the stock airbox lid so the K&N can attach to the MAF housing directly. this would be the tidiest way but means if I dont like it I face a big bill for a replacement airbox, find one scrap or fit an AEM/TRD kit. This is a mock up of what I mean, the red shaded area would be cut away with the filter mounted to the MAF pipe bit of the airbox lid. Comments? Any advice would be appreciated! Many thanks!

the car that was on was quite happy to use the nitrous from about 3000 upwards as long as it was in an appropriate gear, ie, its accelerating freely. same goes for the 2zz, couldnt use it as low as that in say 4th gear but in 1st it should be ok, 2nd and 3rd will probably limit it to 4000+ and the rest of the gears to 5000+. I won't know for sure how well its will respond until its up and running. for now i only have small jets that should be plenty safe at slightly lower revs. Will be interesting thats for sure and I look forward to feeling lift on nos :D

I've had nitrous on a few cars now so have picked up a few ideas along the way hence I thought to put this inside the box and go stealthy! I will certainly be getting some dyno runs done, perhaps not on the smaller jets but certainly when I start adding more than 50hp I will want to see the results. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet since the electrical side is not complete, at least the hard part is done and installed! As for leaning out, shouldn't be a concern as the reason wizards of nos use 25hp jets initially is for setup using what they call the 'static test'. this allows you to establish if the fuel jet is the correct ratio for the right mix. Hopefully the ratio will need to be about the same as my last cars so I don't have to buy more jets! Worst case i'll run it slighter on the rich side until I can get the correct ratio. for reference this is the dyno graphs from my last car running 179hp off nitrous and a 50hp jetting which as you can see was running a tad rich hence the loss of power higher up the scale, well, the fall off anyway, not so much a loss :D Oh, that was on a 1.8 16v rover VVC engine ;) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/elm...52/Photo017.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/elm...52/Photo018.jpg I do hope the 2zz takes nicely to nitrous, from what I have read in the states it seems to respond very well if set up correctly!

Since the kit was lying around i HAD to use it... didnt QUITE get finished today but got 90% of the work done, all that is left is to mount the arming switch under the dash and connect the wires up, oh, and connect the bottle ;) here are some progress photos I took... View of the work area before starting with all the plugs disconnected: Removed airbox and intake pipe: fogger in position and secured: pulsoides mounted INSIDE the air box and low pressure lines ran below intake pipe, very stealthy! I used additional O-Rings to ensure the low pressure side sealed and used silicone sealant where I ran the supply pipes in to the box to make sure no air leaks existed :) The nitrous line is aprox 30% longer than the fuel line, this is to ensure that both arrive at the engine at the same time so it doesn't bog down/lean out. I guess this is the fuel line? Tapped in to this to supply the nitrous its 'wet' bit! and finally the bottle in situ in the boot, nice of toyota to give us a little compartment under the carpet at the side the size of a 5lb bottle! The black line is the high pressure line disconnected from the bottle. I've set it up with the 25hp jets which I will stick with until the wet weather goes away in spring when I hope to go to 50 or 75hp jets all being well it could see 265bhp by the summer, maybe more if I get a progressive controller :o Comments?

This may sound a bit odd... My TSport has 63'000 miles on it, I have no proof of any clutch replacement being done and given the subaru clutch has just give in and is costing a small fortune to replace I am overly paranoid about the TS clutch... here is why... 1st gear and VERY occasioanlly 2nd gear it seems as if the clutch is slipping yet if I drop the clutch and reengage it is fine, I have tried testing it in every gear holding it at about 3000rpm and flooring it and it doesnt slip at all. It doesn't slip as LIFT engages either which is where I would have imagined it was most likely to if it was! This leads me to suspect that maybe the clutch pedal needs adjusting? It has always felt different but comparing it to the subaru is like chalk and cheese. Does anyone know if there is any adjustment or even lubrication points on the clutch/clutch arm/pedal as I cant help but feel its simply sticking somewhere along the line... Other theory, could this simply be traction control butting in? how does TRC work? I now you guys don't get it but maybe you still know how it works? Need to establish if its something that may be an issue in the near future or not as I am installing the nitrous kit on thursday! As always, many thanks in advance!

yeah the insurance company i'm with are very friendly when it comes to performance enhancing mods, in some cases they wont insure you unless you are modified ENOUGH! can't quite understand why they want me to carry an extinguisher tho, as i say, nitrous on its own is not flammable, it can only introduce more oxygen to a fire started by something else. I've got all the parts ready and have taken advice from the system manufacturer so I know what I need to do to ensure the best possible install, just need the time now which will be thursday this week as I am working from home all day. Should be 'interesting' to say the least ;) Starting with a small 25hp boost to test everything is working as it should be then I can up this to 50hp, maybe eventually get a progressive controller and reach a 125hp gain :o

cheers for the pointers, i'll take a look at some point this week. i'm in no rush to install the kit, heck, i'm still getting used to lift :D I know there are two big rubber grommets on the RHS of the engine bay (behind airbox area) that could probably be most appropriate but I havent actually found out where they go just yet! Oh and if 4ga wire will fit my 12ga should go no problem! even the nitrous line is only about the size of 6/8ga :) Most importantly tho my insurance company will cover the use as long as I have a fire extinguisher in the car... no idea why since nitrous isn't flammable... lol

cheers for the pointers, i'll take a look at some point this week. i'm in no rush to install the kit, heck, i'm still getting used to lift :D I know there are two big rubber grommets on the RHS of the engine bay (behind airbox area) that could probably be most appropriate but I havent actually found out where they go just yet! Oh and if 4ga wire will fit my 12ga should go no problem! even the nitrous line is only about the size of 6/8ga :)

I need to run both a single cable from the battery area to below the dash (on the RH side, im RHD remember:) as well as getting the nylon nitrous supply pipe thru from the battery area to the cabin on the LEFT side (that is, right as you look at the engine bay). Whilst I understand you tend to not use nitrous in au I would imagine at least a few of you have installed amplifiers and ran a cable from the battery? Could you possibly post a picture or describe where to run the cable/pipe and also where under the dash they will come out? I am going to have a proper look on tuesday or wednesday when I have a full day I can install the nitrous kit... roll on 200whp :D

ah yes, profiles, mine are 205/55/16 :) 38psi? That seems vey high! have used 32psi in past on that profile but never 38? I want a balance of grip and handling, its silly how easy it brakes traction but seems to handle well at whatever they are at now! thanks xoom, ill have a look at trying those pressures, thought it may be around that area. i'm not doing any street racing style traffic light launches but even accelerating hard from 2500 or so seems to let loose, going in to lift in 1st, 2nd and sometimes 3rd seems to give a little flicer of traction intervention too. I best sort this out before I refit my nitrous oxide kit and raise fly hp to about 265bhp ;) Also, where is the best place to get a handbook? mr t?

does this mean your forever wheel spinning? my tsport (sportivo to you!) is forever spinning up, front end judders, lights flash on dash and then all returns to normal, with TC turned off things get a bit hairy! How do you guys manage? What tyres do you use? what pressure are they at etc? I know in my previous car the recommended pressures were very odd, 28psi/36psi (was mid engine/rwd)... I dropped these to 26/32 and the handling and grip improved greatly! I don't have a hand book for the CTS so don't even know the recommended pressures! can anyone help me out?

I'm biassed and prefer the 2002 3dr euro spec T Sport ;) that said the 3dr compressor is gorgeous!

only one way to find out mate ;) I know the 1zz-FE and 2zz-GE engines both have this same setup...

'occasionally'... ;)

I blocked the vac pipe so it doesn't cause any issues with the ECU or anything related to it, its been fine so far and sounds mean! Might give it a try connected at some point to see if it makes any difference.

Well, Had a look around, I know exactly how I am going to install the nitrous kit now... Pulsoides will be attached to side of airbox near bottom below the intake pipe, fuel line is within about 8 inch so easy to take a feed from and the throttle is close also so minimal pipe is needed... Anyhow just for reference here is the pulsoides, fuel 'T', crossfire fogger, olives, jets and some pipe ;) Hopefully get it installed come the new year and have some real fun