redracer

5k's way too much. I picked up a top of the line 96 model camry with 113kms for less than that. For that car I wouldn't pay Anything over 3500 considering the k's on it

I had a good look at it today and from what it seems it looks like it is meant to be on an angle exactly like sweetys pic from above. When u fold the rear seats down it is actually flush with the seat back. If u pull out the plastic part there is a small indent which slots into a bracket for the centre seatbelt..it's pretty hard to explain but I believe it's supposed 2 b on an angle

ive got the same problem as well.... mines also on an angle.... when i get home ill try and have a look to see if i can get it to fit propely

Once the cars off if a light on the radio flashes every few seconds your security is activated but if it doesn't flash I believe the pin is not activated and should be fine to remove and reuse if needed

I believe the owners manual has the steps to change the coolant and also the amount needed....I used the red nulon 50/50 mix which I got from supercheap and I'm more than happy with it..From memory it's like 60 dollars all up for coolant also leaving quite a bit remaining.on another note I believe you should turn the heater inside the car To full heat before draining to also flush the coolant out of the heater core...someone correct me if I'm wrong...and I'd also fill it with water once drained to give it a further clean out.

ok...to remove cover, you need to push the cover towards the rear windshield. Then while pushing, lift the cover following the angle of the rear windshield upwards.........if you still have your owners manual it should show you around the end of the book... hope that helps...

well after taking the door card off again i found the culprit....one of the speaker wires have totally snapped...so after work tomorrow i'm going to try an either replace the existing wire or try and cut and re-solder the existing wire....

Well I have a pair of car speakers laying around so I'll try this arvo to test to see if it actually is the speaker. If it is the speaker it looks like I'll have 2 purchase a new set of speakers for the front. What brands do people recommend? I'm pretty happy with the pair of jbl rears I have in our other vienta. Otherwise if it is the hu I'll buy another toyota hu off eBay. I've been reading that the newer hu won't connect up. Is this the case cuz the connections look the same

Hey Everyone, Ok to start I have a 1996 Toyota Vienta Grande with a dual din Fujitsu Ten radio with six speakers (2x Front, 2x Front Tweeters & 2x 6x9 Rears). Today as i was driving to work i noticed that the front right hand speakers (Both the 4" front & tweeter) weren't working. Firstly I just thought that i'd accidentally changed the balance on the radio....unfortunately this wasn't the case, the right rear 6x9 works and the entire left side still works. So once i got home i removed the door card on the drivers side to check the wiring in the door, messed around with the wires between the door and frame, messed around behind the kick panel and removed the HU to try and see if a wire had come lose or broken.... Well after all of that there was still no change so my last guess is that a single channel in the HU has stuffed up somehow causing both front right speakers to suddenly stop working... Just wondering if this is possible or if there is something else i should check.....Otherwise i'll probably just buy another Toyota HU off ebay and hope it works as im sick of not having a CD player up front and having to change the stacker all the time.... Thanks in advance...

Yes the batteries for these remotes do die but im suprised if the remote itself only lasted 18 months. With these remotes the batteries cannot be replaced (well thats for the gen 3s but im pretty sure its the same for gen 4s) so youll need to buy an entire remote and have it programmed. Do you have another remote to test that the central locking itself is working.

They did also release a Grande version when they upgraded the gen 5's to 5.5's. The Grande slots just below the Azura in the model range (basically it's an Azura without the bodykit, exhaust and a few interior trim pieces but it did come with full leather, sunroof, GPS etc.)

I'm not sure if you've already solved the problem but from what the manual says, programming for a 96 camry (95 should be the same) is as follows: a ) Insert a valid programmed remote control into the remote control reader. The vehicle security indicator on the dash will illuminate continuously for 5 seconds. During this time: 1. Remove valid remote control from reader 2. Insert new blank remote control into the reader 3. Remove newly programmed remote control from the reader. b ) Test by arming / disarming the system. Repeat if still not functional If any problems, the Toyota dealer will arrange programming of new remote.

well im glad some of my advice came in handy.....that 3M glue should be fine (fingers crossed)....& by the looks of it you did a great job :)

you can re-use your old headliner material but if you want to replace it with new material i'd try lincraft (thats where i bought my new material). I'd recommend Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner Glue as some glues don't cope very well with the heat and can come loose again (this glue has worked very well with my car parked under the sun all day). I bought this glue from Pep's but i've also seen it at Supercheap & Repco before. This link also has a bit more information about replacing the headliners on our gen 3 camrys: http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde...showtopic=19720

They have a 70L tank. Just to make sure check the rear of your User Manual, it will tell you there.

first off i'd like to thank wixy for the kind welcome to the forum. Overall, I've had to repair the headliner twice to my parents car (first time with upholstery glue <_< ). It worked well for a few months but began to sag again . So second time around I did some more research and found Permatex Heavy Duty Headliner & Carpet Adhesive. The headliner was quite dirty so i bought a roll of grey tracksuit material and replaced the old headliner with the tracksuit material. Since using this glue I haven't had a problem with the headliner & most of the time the car was parked under the sun at school (it looks nice too with the new material). In regards to the gen3's durability, ive noticed the most common problems for these cars are the sagging headliner, lifting dash & the door trim material separating from the door. Luckily since I purchased my 96 Vienta Grande 6mths ago I haven't had to face any of these problems yet! Unfortunately for my parents 96 Vienta CSI i've had to attempt to fix all these problems (except for the lifting dash, a dash mat hides it anyways)

Overall, it isn't an extremely hard job to repair the roof lining yourself. I repaired mine for the cost of the special headliner glue (about $25 bucks at the nearest auto store). If you do try to repair it yourself make sure its headliner glue, not upholstery glue as the upholstery glue doesnt cope with heat well and will come loose again (learn't that first time round). Basically to remove the headliner you need to remove the four round plastic lugs near the rear windshield, pop off the plastic cover for the interior light and unscrew & unplug the interior light, take off both sunvisors and the rearview mirror then lift and pull the plastic trim around the outskirts of the headliner. After that the headliner should drop down. It is recommended to remove the passenger seat to allow enough room to take the headliner out of the car (but isnt necessary, or recline the seats as low as they go for more room). Once out of the car, the material should fairly easily separate from the material its attached to. Then basically you respray the the whole headliner & let it dry. Once dry, reinstall the headliner reverse of removal. It takes a good day to repair the headliner but is much cheaper than taking it to a shop to be repaired. The only thing to be careful of is that the headliner is quite weak and any severe bending will cause it to snap.