bradsm87

The car needs to be really low and have really stiff rear suspension if u want front inside wheel traction. Well that's what I found at my local track. I had to sharply swerve towards the grass, almost going off the track exiting nearly every corner to regain inside wheel traction. That's just with TRD braces front and rear, king springs and a TRD rear swaybar. I'd like to go even stiffer again with the rear swaybar and stiffer rear springs. A good track FWD will lift the inside rear wheel completely off the ground when turning. This is showing you that the rear is doing its absolute best to hold the car flat and give the front the traction it needs. I still got same time as a mate in his 200SX with a few power-ups so stoked! I was so happy with the Sportivo brakes too! I'd love some Bilstein coilovers but we're selling the car soon anyway so certainly wouldn't get the money back.

Any 17x8 wheel with a good offset (about +30) is good IMO so they sit nice n flush with the guards then get some 205/45R17 tyres so the tyres slightly taper in for guard clearance from rubbing. There is a LOT more to wheels that which ones u like the look of best.

The AFR on lift is already ideal but if u move the lift point to 5200, the AFR between 5200 and 6200 would be out for sure. I would very much like to see some evidence that moving lift down a bit won't gain anything at all between 5200 and 6000 where it is crap at the moment. It'd have to be a BIT better. VVT tuning doesn't come cheap. U can't change the VVT on a Power FC, even with laptop software can u? Looks like U'd need a Haltech PS1000 at least.

The Apexi AFC Neo can do it. The tune won't be ideal because it can only intercept the MAF signal for fuel changes and change the lift point but judging by the huge torque hole between 5000 and 6000 then a sudden rise in power as lift hits on lightly modded 2ZZ's (intake/exhaust), I think changing the lift point to about 5300 and tweaking A/F ratios would be a great improvement.

Power FC's always come with base maps for the engine they're sold for don't they?

U can get SuperPro eccentric front lower control arm rear bushes that increase caster. This slightly increases steering effort and improves stability and dynamic camber. Well worth it IMO.

You do know the sportivo comes standard with a very high flowing cat? I would take a stock sportivo cat over an Xforce cheap-o any day.

Since the engine can technically run on 91 octane, I would recommend premium (95) for the extra margin of safety from detonation and more even cylinder pressure across the whole stroke rather than a shorter sharper 'BANG' at the top of the stroke that 91 tends to do. Most agree that the best way to run in an engine is HARD but not too many revs. Like try and use lots of varying revs under lots of load but stay under about 4500rpm for the first 200km and under 5000 for the next 300. For the very best results, change the oil and filter after 500km to more run-in oil even though toyota say it's not needed as most of the wear happens in the first 300km or so so 1000km is a long time to be running an engine with tiny bits of metal, assembly lube etc floating around in it. We've ran in an engine using light load and it turned out to breathe like all hell, showing that the rings weren't bedded in properly. After another rebuild on the same engine ran in using heavy load, the breathing was reduced to nearly nothing.

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I wouldn't put E10 in a sportivo. The unleaded component is very low octane. Sportivos need 95 AT MINIMUM but I wouldn't use anything other than 98. Now it NEVER, EVER knocks even the slightest .

I've also heard from a couple of transmission specialists that Transmax Z is the best.

Car Model/Year : 2005 Sportivo Km on Engine: 50 000 Current Engine Oil: Mobil1 0W-40 full synthetic Price: $70 per 5L bottle Current Gear Oil: Stock NOTES: Used to run Motul 300V Chrono 10W-40 but at $105 for 4L, it was getting too much. Mobil1 0W-40 seems good. I change it every 7500k's and use TRD oil filters. Possible future Gear Oil: Motul Gear 300. Used it in my S14 and really like it.

Having wheels way in from the guards is much more "uber ghey super ****house" than having spacers. Longer studs LOL. Obviously i'm talking about bolt-on spacers, not slip-on spacers. They bolt on to the factory studs and have their own studs for the wheels to bolt on to. If worried about insurance, they are perfectly legal IF: - they are hub centric (they fit snugly over the factory hub centre and the wheel fits snugly over the spacer hub centre) - they technically have to be glued on apparently. Dunno why. I guess so u can't tamper with them easily. And u need to tell them about the spacers then it's def no problem.

Keep in mind the front wheels are turned slightly towards the camera. When straight, they look flush. That's with 20mm spacers front, 25mm rear and an extra 0.5 degrees negative camber on the front. King lows all round.

Yes U definately should just get it right first time with aftermarket wheels but when you want to keep the unmodified stock wheel look, wheel spacers with stock wheels really set it off.