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Kenshin X

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Posts posted by Kenshin X

  1. Record the sound. But I wouldn't be to worried about it unless it just appeared one day.

    I highly doubt it is related to your alternator. Mine sees similar voltages, a bit low but still ok. I've got to get around to taking some measurements to see if it is leaking electricity or the alternator is just slowly dying.

    Does it sound like this

    Or like this?

    ,

    i'll do that today, it sounds more like the third/last video... but its not as loud...

    i'll get a video and PM u later today if thats ok =)

    thanks

  2. Morning guys and girls,

    Im on a quest to change the colours on the consoles and dash in my sportivo...

    So far for the centre console, it seems to be straight forward...

    I've did a bit of reading on the topics already up for this but i feel its not really clear enough. So i ask again

    How can you change the colours on the dash? Is it even possible?

    Do you need to take off the steering wheel first?

    Any precautions?

    I read that the colour of the back of the dash itself is red, not the bulbs, not sure if its true or not...

    If anyone has done it and was successful, please post up any pix and instructions! ;)

    cheers

  3. The Penrite did it immediately engine was very quiet after oil change

    was running castrol edge 5 30W but OILS aint OILS and it was crap was in the 380 as well edge is not a true syn like Mobil 1

    I choose the penrite as it was recomended by a mech who sees this issue all the time he told me penrite semi syn just does a wonderful job lubing the engine and quieting noisy lifters so I did it and it works

    Awesome! maybe i should try it out on my next oil change, but that wont be until like another 5000 kms as i just did mine. I just stuck to the old numbers just in case something happens. but when i DO change the viscosity, is it necessary to flush the engine with engine flush?

    also i heard one of my mates uses this lucas brand as an oil additive... he says it protects the engine from the moment u cold start your engine right to the normal operating temperatures... knowing that the engine wear is at its peak when u cold start, is this neccessary?

  4. On all 3 cars I put clear contact on the bonnet and the pillars so the ribbons didn't scratch ;)

    Ribbons off remove contact and guess what?? no marks...... :D

    Ahh flashbacks of days gone by.... how i wish i had of kept that car and still have been able to buy a house.................................

    damn, thats why i bought my house first before buying the car :D

  5. This is blunt and may come across quite harshly but really, i mean come on. if you were to buy any car these days you take the appropriate measures so that you do not get stung , if your paying for the car with a loan it's usually a condition of that loan ( pending how much money it is ) to have the car checked thoroughly for these types of things. When i bought my car i ran every check possible and once i felt comfortable and had inspected the vehicle from head to toe it was then that i made the purchase.

    If theres someout out there trying to sting someone tell the police.

    hehe i only knew about the finance thing becuz my mum told me about a guy buying a 120,000 M3 only to get it taken off him the next week becuz of the bad bank credits with the old owner!

    Talk about OUCH...

  6. hey peoples,

    just reading thru the topics from oldest to most recent.

    One thing that caught my eye was the "diesel like noise" coming from the engine bay upon idle. My uncle listened to it and he said that its normal becuz its the fuel injector and ALL EFI cars have that.

    However thru the months of driving the stivo i noticed one thing:

    My car has a voltmeter that was put in by the previous owner and it always showed 14V when the car is cold and ~13.2 to 13.5V when the car was warm.

    Lately, its showing around 13.5 when cold and 12.2 to 12.5 when warm.

    also, lately sometimes when i turn on my HIDs, the right one just doesnt work and i need to high beam when the lights are off to get them on. Only after doing this, the HID light turns on. also sometimes, when decellerating, the left HID bulb flickers too.

    these problems could be becuz a range of things like

    a) battery going flat. (unlikely becuz new)

    B) alternator playing up (maybe bearings are stuffed causing the drop in voltage)

    c) belt (original on 85,000 kms 7 years)

    d) faulty voltmeter (unlikely)

    thanks for your input guys! :)

  7. i think a bigger battery would help rather than getting high output alternator cuz its so expensive. All alternator does is just regulates the batterys voltage (charges when its low and stops when its too high)

    you should be sitting in around 12.5V ~ 13.5V

    New cars these days, the alternator SHOULD be powerful enough to handle alot of electrical things. (i've run a computer, 2 amps and 2 subs once and aircon and the voltmeter in my car stayed somewhere in the low 12Vs to 12.5V...

    Just dont be idle for too long or use it for too long when the engine is off :P

    most of the time u (or rather your passenger) will use it when the car is moving anyways. so charge shouldn't be a problem. ;)

  8. Guys, reviving an old post...

    Not sure if you know already but the things u should do BEFORE you even contact the seller.

    1) Check with Vicroads, the seller should be posting at least the Rego/VIN of the car on the ad. check if its written off/has encumberance (finance) on it.

    2) If you want to cover your a$$ from the bank reclaiming back the car becuz of bad debts from the previous owner, i believe there is some paper u buy from Vicroads protecting you from the bank to reclaim the car.

    The catch is that: you must puchase (~$20) this from Vicroads approx 24 hours before the FULL AMOUNT is paid to the seller. Otherwise this piece of paper is void...

    As far as I know, I never heard its "illegal" buying a car with finance on it. I'm sure alot of them are out there selling with them.

    Hope this clarifies things for people =)

    P.S. I did ALOT of research for my sportivo before I bought it... but now i'm sorta doubting whether its been in an accident or not becuz of the crooked panels in the front in reference to the bonnet. My uncle looked on the inside frames, but he said that they were all straight... (maybe bad quality control from SA?)

    Regards all, and happy lifting :D

  9. One problem though: On the website listed here http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_brakepad-black.html the note says that its only for the Jap built ZZE123...

    Also i've been juggling between RDAs and DBAs rotors and its really getting to me cuz i'm spending endless hours trying to research on these but there is never enough information on the internet!

    What i've been reading though are mixed opinions, some are from other forums like Ford, Holden etc. But i'm not sure these are realible sources as the quality can be different depending on the make of the car etc... I've only heard from this forum that the RDA are more likely to crack more than the DBAs...

    PM replied.

    Sportivo's use the same brake pads as the Japanese built Runx.

    Ford's and Holden's are a much heavier vehicle than the Corolla and over work their brakes much easier than we do. Cracking occurs on all slotted rotors; same applied for cross drilled (I know you didn't mention but just in case people think they are better off with it).

    Skip upgrading the rear pads, they run vastly cooler than the fronts, so save some money there.

    PM read! thanks superdave! :D

  10. Yeah yeah, this was probably discussed thousands of times on these forums.

    However i think as time goes on, quality of the parts do change... right?

    Anyways, im thinking of getting these TRD pads for the front and rear. FYI

    Fronts are:

    04491-ZT300

    Rears are:

    04492-ZT300

    I found them at 100 bucks for the sets together on ebay from sydneycarparts which is quite reasonably cheap compared to the other brands (bendix, EBCs etc.)

    One problem though: On the website listed here http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_brakepad-black.html the note says that its only for the Jap built ZZE123...

    As far as I know, The Australian delivered Sportivos were only assembled in South Africa! So before kicking myself in the butt, can these parts fit on our Aussie Sportivos or i'm better off with others?

    Also i've been juggling between RDAs and DBAs rotors and its really getting to me cuz i'm spending endless hours trying to research on these but there is never enough information on the internet!

    What i've been reading though are mixed opinions, some are from other forums like Ford, Holden etc. But i'm not sure these are realible sources as the quality can be different depending on the make of the car etc... I've only heard from this forum that the RDA are more likely to crack more than the DBAs...

    My driving style isn't really punishing on the brakes either, so i might be getting whichever is the cheaper one. After for your opinions guys :)

    Thanks!

  11. btw, first place i rang for exedy clutch and flywheel machined ABS... $1430 bucks! omfgbbqwithmayo!!! not going there for the clutch now... i thought getting the brakes upgraded and changed there for $680 were reasonable so i rang there for clutch replacement thinking they'd do a good price for me too.

    wasn't the case <_<

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