rob323

Factory idle speed is 650-700 rpm. You should not adjust the idle as it is controlled by the ecu. If the car is dropping below 650rpm at idle and stalling or shaking, then do the following: Clean the maf sensor with some contact cleaner (or even brake clean). Remove the throttle body from the car and give it a good clean out as well. Remove the idle control valve from the bottom of the throttle body and give it a good clean as well. If none of the above solve the problem, then the cause is most likely a stuffed idle control valve.

Yes the stock key has a chip in it. I have tried many times to find a way to brpass the security without success. Rumour has it that some locksmiths are able to program new keys to suit your ecu best to do the ring around and see what they say. Ptherwise, you will have to get a replacement key with matching ignition barrel and matching ecu to be able to start it. Let me know how you go.

Easy things to check first: Loose exhaust head shield some where. Not so easy: Alternator or waterpump bearings on the way out. vvti solenoid gunked up timing chain tensioner faulty or worn guides. Try to pin point the noise, us a long extension bar or a large screw driver like a stethoscope to determine where the sound is coming from. Echo motors idle very low and do shake things around, especially when idling under load.

The more rallies I do, the more I think that the front/ rear distribution of a front wheel drive does not and should not be anywhere near 50:50. I think the whole 50:50 thing is definately correct for rear wheel drive and possibly AWD but my car at 69:31 f/r is taily enough as it is. I certainly wouldn't want any more weight down the back.

Sorry for the tardy response, I don't always get email notifications from this board. I haven't seen any tutorials on how to do it but I know Johnny has done it to his Echo. http://yarisfans.com/forum/yaf_postst39_My-Echo---.aspx

Been done plenty overseas. No one in Australia has done it though to my knowledge. Why do you want rear discs? looks?

The auto ecu survived a 50km flogging last night and has learnt well, timing advance is up and fuel trims down from the factory default. No limp home mode so we are good to go for the rally. Thanks for the links to the locksmiths, I will definately be getting in touch with them after the event.

It won't happen overnight, but it WILL happen! The Adaptronic is on the bench presently, the next step is to make a plug and play harness for it.

Thanks for that link, I'll check with them in due course. I managed to get an auto ecu yesterday and it works. It throws the check engine light due to not having a manual instead of an auto though. I'll hopefully be able to go for a decent drive tonight just to make sure it doesn't crack the poops and go into limp home mode.

One more bug, will hopefully get it sorted tonight, and then my 2NZ to 1NZ conversion will be complete.

Anyone planning on heading up to see the action in 1.5 weeks time? There will be quite a few Toyota's of all ages competing (including mine hopefully).

Trouble is that you need the master key to start with to be able to program other keys. :( Yes, already tried that but $650 is a bit much to swallow.

Unfortunately no, totally different system (CANbus). I would be curious to find out more if you could put me in touch with them please. Everyone I've spoken to including some very knowledgeable Toyota Techs say it can't be done as you can't flash the ecu and once it is set to suit a particular key, it's set that way for good. That would be very much appreciated if you could. Please check the model though, the plug configuration changed on the ecu mid 2002. I need one from a 1999-2002.5 model.

No key. The ecu itself is absolutely worthless without the key as you can't disarm the immobiliser. I have two 1.5 litre ecu's here which are basically paperweights for that reason.

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