GeoffW1

Hi, I'd recommend Chris at Premier Car Repairs, Hurstville. He drives a Camry himself and knows them. He did a good job on mine. Cheers

Hi, Mongoose has one, probably others too. Did you mean DIY? Cheers

Hi, This is true. If you do see moisture on opening it, the wisdom is to whip the battery out quickly, then dry the innards. I never mentioned I had my mobile phone in the other pocket, and that was not working when I first looked. So, the battery came out, and I took the phone to bits later. I sprayed both sides of the circuit boards and all contacts with WD40, dried the excess and left it a while. On reassembly it worked !! Cheers

Thank you Engelbert ;-]]

Hi, I fell in the ocean with the Mongoose remote keychain in my pocket. I thought 'uh-oh, can I remember the over-ride?' So I opened the clamshell there and it was dry inside!! It was evidently quite water tight, or being in my pocket prevented it being actually flooded all round. Cheers

Hi, Mine, a 94, developed a crack in the plastic radiator header tank, but that was at about 10-12 years old. Sounds like an isolated thing. Cheers

Hi, I have scraped my rear bumper, and I judge it is a bit too severe to try repairing myself. Any recommendations on mobile services in Sydney for this? Such as Touchupguys, for example? Cheers

Haynes are American, and thus the dates they cover reflect American model cycles.... Hi, No, Haynes are British, but yes, the manual was printed in the USA. No but yes, clear ? I had not noticed that. The first ever Haynes manual was apparently for the Austin Healey Sprite. I bet they needed it too. I had a look at the Wikipedia article referenced above (would that tell us specifically about models in Oz?) and it just confused me. It said "An all-new aluminium 1MZ-FE V6 debuted in North American models from 1994, with other markets soon following". Anyway, I agree with all you have told me, since having it pointed out that my Haynes manual is really for furriners. So I will keep my 3VZ and not swap it for a 1MZ. Cheers

Nah, Australian Camrys (should we say Camries?), I pay no attention to Yank Camrys, thats another planet. So, 1997 eh? Or 1998? Haynes says 1996, but we can't trust them (not always anyway). Cheers

Hi, From all you say I think it is still a small head gasket leak. There is a cheap test for combustion gas in the coolant. A radiator specialist like one of the Natrad chain can do this for you. BTW I think it would be unusual if a 97 had the 3VZ engine. I thought that was phased out for the 1MZ in 95? Cheers

Hi, For some time oil had been leaking down the lower front of my engine block, and getting on the hot exhaust. On the 3VZ V6 the oil filter is mounted on an offset adapter, or bracket, to move it from behind the front bank exhaust pipe. The bracket is secured to the block by 4 nuts, and has an o-ring style gasket between. This goes hard and leaks, as it is subjected to the full oil pressure. I decided to change it, and some might be interested in the procedure, which does not appear in the Haynes manual I have. Naturally you need to have a cool engine. First disconnect the oxygen sensor wire from its connector at the right hand end of the front cam cover. Then remove the heat shield (2 nuts and a small bolt) from the exhaust manifold. It will need to be twisted and wiggled this way and that. You can deform it somewhat if needed, taking careful note for later of exactly how it came off. Remove the oil filter. There are 3 nuts on studs spaced around where the bracket contacts the block, and a fourth somewhat hidden just to the left of the filter itself. They will not be tremendously tight, but a socket wrench with extension is needed for 3 of them. The fourth, next to the exhaust heat shield, requires a ring spanner. The bracket is difficult to get off this fourth stud as it will foul the exhaust pipe heat shield. I ground a little off the end of the stud with a Dremel tool. On the inner face of the bracket where it contacts the block, there is a central seal which clips on to the bracket's central boss with three spring legs. Make sure this is not lost as it may come loose when the bracket is removed. The old o-ring seal can be picked out of its groove, and after a cleanup, the new seal put into position in the groove. As a precaution, coat it with a little heavy grease to keep it there when you reassemble everything in reverse. Cheers

Hi, There are at least 2 on the 3VZ-FE. One is at the right side of the exhaust heat shield on the front of the engine. There is a corresponding sensor on the rear exhaust bank, very hard to see. On some models there is a third oxygen sensor on the exhaust pipe under the front seats. It is obvious if there as it has a wire going to it. Cheers

Hi, As a guide I recently had a private mechanic go over my 94 V6 Vienta to get rid of all the oil leaks. It cost $860 for - remove and replace air plenum, induction manifold, valve covers, plastic timing belt cover, distributor - replace with Toyota parts valve cover gaskets, air and induction manifold gaskets, driver's side crank and all camshaft end seals, distributor shaft o ring, red coolant, clean engine Adding a few other things in your case I would estimate about $1000. I would not go near a dealer. The front struts are a simple job in the Vienta, although strut costs vary. I'd say about $500 total. The mechanic has a Camry himself and was also doing another one of our model type for oil leaks as well!! I asked him to assess my water pump and timing belt and he reported they were in good condition, so he was honest enough. I recommend him. Chris (owner) at Premier Car Repairs, 9 Roberts Lane Hurstville Sydney (I have no other connection with them). He will quote you readily enough. Cheers

Well I've done it on my old Camry and it was only 'light swearing' difficulty. Then again, that was a 3S-FE. I reckon a V6 shouldn't be too bad... as long as the neighbours kids aren't around to hear some interesting words. When money is tight, it's amazing what one can be willing to try. Hi, No it isn't too bad on a V6. I did it all on my 1994 Vienta, and it is a long enough job but you get there. I found - the crankshaft pulley bolt very difficult to undo, use a big rattle gun - rear bank spark plugs a little easier if you undo the centre rear engine mount and jack up the engine just a little - don't forget the distributor shaft o-ring seal, it is a common source of leaks on these engines However 2 years later (ie last week) it was again leaking oil !! This time I found a good mechanic and gave the job to him. He said the reason my efforts had failed was that I had used cheap aftermarket seals. He had learned the hard way he reckoned that you have to use genuine Toyota seals if the job is to last. He is independent, not at a Toyota dealer. Cost was $845. The big one if it leaks is the rear main bearing oil seal, which needs the transmission dropped. Cost estimate $550. I'll let that one go !! Cheers

Hi This mob, CarsRus, have Camry parts such as you mention and others. They are an eBay shop mainly. http://stores.shop.ebay.com.au/carsRus-Car...Q_ipgZQQ_sasiZ1 Cheers