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Posts posted by ben yip
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Have talked to tune house regarding standalone ecu in my car, the cost is around 8000. 6 days of wiring and 2 days of tuning.
I probably have to think about it. 8000 is a lot of money
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Cannot find a flaw
Good presentation skills, good lightning, lot of own opinions which touch the audience
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inspired by a turbo install in mighty car mods, same engine and with Haltech
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Redo the rear sway bar due to damage by hydraulic jack by some mechanics, it is sprayed in orange so that it is visible.
The car bites the corner really good now. The bar is hand made by kmac suspension at rockdale. It has 2 holes adjustable
I have done a measurement for front and rear sway bar, 23mm front and 20mm back. The ratio is 20/23=0.87. this ratio is important for fwd cars to control understeer/oversteer
That's why it does not have any understeering and little lift off oversteering.
For your info, latest corolla use 27.8 front and 24.5 rear , that's why it handles really well. It is really really thick for stock production car
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On 1/4/2020 at 10:53 PM, stidnam said:
Have you looked into running a Haltech or something similar and doing away with the corolla ECU entirely?
I'm also in the process of having a Quaife installed in my EC60 box. You didn't happen to have it installed by shop in Hornsby by any chance?
I have LSD installed at Hornsby shop. Good work from them, but they send my car to another mechanic nearby to remove the gearbox , which screw up my car. Leaking brake fluid, forgot to install engine mount.
If you change LSD, I highly recommend to change light weight flywheel. Sportivo uses it, type r uses it. You will end up gaining free horsepower which is very noticeable
Still exploring ecu option, using an independent ecu is not a very good option due to the labour involved.
I saw it someone raise the ecu with the by 2gr Fe ecu
I am changing coilover recently. I won't use pedders anymore. After they change the insert for me, it is significantly softer than before, so there are some QA issue in their parts.
I am going to install xyz coilover. From research, they are a good brand in Taiwan and Asian countries. He spring rate is also 8kg front and 5kg rear
https://www.performancesuspension.com.au/toyota-corolla-zre152-zre153-2006-2012-xyz-racing
It is sold as 1395, similar price to bc racing.
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On 1/1/2020 at 2:12 PM, stidnam said:
Car looks really good with the enkei wheels! Nice choice.
Your youtube description reads that you had the ECU tuned. What exactly did you end up having done?
Thanks, rpf1 can decrease 0-100 time in 0.2 seconds. And that's why I stay away with 18 inch because of its weight.
Ecu has lots of frustration. I only have unichip, I tried to increase the rpm but failed, lots of money has gone. Camshaft and valve springs have been changed already, and stuck with 6400rpm limit. The ecu is only used in Australia, and hence the USA guys might not be able to help. Bench tuning is the only option, but who would work on the corolla in Australia.
I plan to keep the car for another ten years.
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5 hours ago, melickg said:
Hello
Recently purchased a 2007 Used Estima, Direct Import from Japan and seems there's very little support for after market mods here in Australia. Anyway will be trying to participate in the forums to seek help and also offer help. I'm a frequent traveller to Hong Kong and China. Hong Kong has a well established Estima owner's club and lots of Auto shops specialising in ESTIMA parts and accessories.
Cheers
George
Hello George. I am from Hong Kong, The car mods culture is Australia is very different from Australia. Australia interested in the older Toyota model and some Hilux. Look the the number of modified Hiace in Hong Kong, they are so hot. Modifying my own corolla looks like I am an idiot in Australia, but in Hong Kong and Thailand, it is very popular.
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Rough 20-100km/h rolling start acceleration in around 7.5 seconds with the heavy 16x7 wheels
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Car was struggled with engine light on after camshaft upgrade. Light was "engine is running too rich". The fix is to clean the MAF sensor again. Now the engine light is gone.
Performance has picked up a bit. Last time the car produced 98kw at the wheels with engine running rich and poor wheel alignment. I think it is running around 99kw at the wheels now.
It is estimated to produce 136kw at the flywheel at 6000rpm, and if I remove all the seats away, it weights just 1200kg now
In first gear rolling start, wheel spin is a lot more more before second gear.
Fuel economy has also significantly increased. Around 6.5L/100km around town if I drive at very low RPM. 6th gear can cruise around town at 1500rpm. It can also go more uphill than before, so the engine has definitely more torque than before..
I have also bought a Lithium battery for <$500 dollars, it weights only 2kg instead of 12kg stock.Battery is from https://www.lithiumax.com.au/product-page/lithiumax-new-450cca-black-lcd-series-battery
I took out the front seat(20kg each), and test the car. Car feels a lot more faster, and I am still on heavy 16 inch factory rims
Next mod is Enkei RPF1 17x7 wheels, which is very light weight
The ECU is still a major bottleneck to me. No workshop like to modify Corolla ECU, the RPM limit is still a show stopper
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Was doing a ECU job, here is the ECU diagram
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Camshaft and ECU has been done. Not much power being picked up. 98kw at the wheels at 6000rpm. Rpm limit cannot be increased, what a bummer.
It is faster, but I was expecting a lot more
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Terry, could you tell us more of your stories.
Is this engine reliable for Lotus as a race car?
How about naturally aspirated of this engine to 8000rpm, I saw MR2 doing this engine swap quite often?
A gasket set is around $700, is that correct? and how much is the bearing, and how many man hours require to strip and reassemble?
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I always use Toyota factory ones, iridium, very good.
I don't know much about ignition coils
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Squalled has nailed it..If you can run three inch with a ecu tune. That might produce more hp according to the info at 1zz and 2zz
https://www.spyderchat.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-31494.html
I am running three inch pod filter on my 2zr using injen cai. But the tubing at two steps.
From throttle body to the maf sensor, 2.5 to 2.75
Just 2 inches before the pod filter, it changes from 2.75 to 3.
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A bit of research about flywheel weight
Honda Type R (NA) - around 6kg
Toyota 2ZZ-GE - around 6kg
My corolla 2ZR-FE - around 10kg
This should explain why in 2ZZ-GE, dyno will read around 108kw at the wheel when stock, only 24% loss
and my car will read only 70kw at the wheel when stock, 30% loss..
Honda Type R (NA) reads around 110kw stock at the wheel.
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Looks like the MAF is not in a good position, or the tubing is too big. In 1zz, 3 inch tubing requires a retune of ECU.
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Good, do you mind if I ask how much is the rebuild cost for labour?
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Have you found any engine builder you can trust?
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Also in https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/mwr-built-short-block-toyota-2gr-fe/
Connecting rods
Select stock or upgraded connecting rods for naturally aspirated and lightly boosted engine combinations. For serious turbocharged, supercharged or nitrous applications we strongly recommend upgrading to Crower billet connecting rods for additional safety and strength.I recommend getting a short block from them and put into your engine, in order to prevent careless mistake from mechanic in rebuilding engine.
For the 2zr ones. Although the power rating is 650hp, but the rod bearing will fail first, if you look the the com rods for 2zr
You better ask mwr for advice as they have a lot of experience in 2gr
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Have you found out what went wrong with compression? Any engine oil consumption?
Sorry, for piston change , I cannot find any quick way. I can only find quick way to fix oil leak in valve seal.
Is your problem happen all in a sudden or over time? What rpm does it happen?
Ben Yip 's ZRE Facelift
in Members Rides
Posted · Edited by ben yip
Car has passed 100000km with my wife and my baby in the car
I have thought about the ECU options, I will spend $10000 to get the standalone ECU, 4 years later. I am not interested in Turbo car at all. Raising the RPM to 7200rpm is a must. It will reach just 100km/h at second gear instead of 90km/h currently.
I also have plans to change the internal of the engine including Wiesco 12:1 pistons, and light weight crank shaft, after this engine has reached 200000km
I have tested the Quaife LSD more thoroughly, no understeer at all even at rainy days at 1st gear. Very happy. It just sticks to the road
I also done a couple of really fast driving from Beowara to Godsford, many bikes are not this road. Bridgestone RE003 is vert sticky, much better than Re002, no squeak sound at all