GSV40R

good point conrod. i had to chase a battery issue with one aurion and the owner was found to leave the remote in the car all of the time in his garage. You don't even realise that you can sometimes leave the acc on . But your correct when saying the constant communication with the receiver as it can cause the cars battery to flatten in a couple of days. Toyota technical department assures me it can with their testing so advise all smart entry users to remove keys from cars , even cars stored in our dealership workshop over a weekend , keys need to be taken out.

also how would you go with your home/car insurance if your car is stolen and you left the keys/remote in it whilst in the garage ????

yep as the 2 dave's have said its pretty normal. The harder you drive it then park in your garage the worse the smell gets. My wife has a mazda sp25 and it smells worse than my aurion at times. And i bet i drive mine harder than she drives hers

Hey,

I'm essentially the opposite of a petrol head. I know which bit of the car I sit in, and that's about it.

My '07 Aurion Sportivo SX6 has developed a clunking noise around the front left wheel. I assume it is something suspension related since it happens when the car goes over bumps, etc. I bought the car second hand exactly 3 and a half months ago from Southside Toyota, so of course it is just out of the 3 month warranty period. I'll be booking it in for them to have a look at ASAP, but just wondering if any other aurion owners have had something similar, and might have an idea of what the probable cause is (and probable cost to repair :/) ?

Thanks for any assistance..

i have experienced a clunk in a few aurion sportivo 's at my work. We have changed a couple of l/h/f struts and some have been fixed and some havent (maybe just not heard as loud once replaced). All of the front ends check out all ok and in some cases the noise is heard when the suspension movement is harsh and quick. A lot of people seem to think its the valving of the strut. The intermediate shaft issues as DJKOR points to is more at a slow speed either braking or accelerating and felt in the steering or brake pedal. i will admit that i can hear a slight knock on occasions from the l/h/f of my zr6 but haven't really worried about it.(maybe its time for some suspension mods now ????)

GSV40R, cheers for the ebay link to the remote covers, we've been looking around for something to put them into since we brought the car home.

Have placed an order for (4) and that should help prolong their lifespan hopefully...........

Steve

no worries , im contemplating buying 6 - 10 , im always asked at work how to protect the remote fobs , now i have an answer

cheers Tim

Hey look, thanks for that. The last 'newer' vehicle I had with a key fob, couldn't have the battery replaced, instead Nissan wanted $275 for a new key fob.

Just out of curosity, has anyone had to purchase a new remote, what did it cost ?

Steve

I can't give you an exact price , i did replace 1 of my Zr remotes under warranty. It came with the car in the service book with 6500klms on the clock and did not operate. I replaced the battery and still no go, so decided to reprogram it and that never worked. I ordered a new one and replaced it. i don't think you will get any change out of $300. as a matter of interest i always keep my fob in my pocket and it gets treated pretty rough , i found these that i thought where pretty good. i need to protect such an expensive bit of gear ????

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Camry-Avalon-Smart-Key-Remote-Protective-Cover_W0QQitemZ280438894481QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item414b75ef91 (for the ZR6,presara smart entry)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyota-Solara-Avalon-Keyless-Remote-Protective-Cover_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem414170778fQQitemZ280270763919QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories ( for the sx6 ,atx and camry )

Sorry if this has been answered (i didn't have enough time to read all posts). Has anyone had the camber bolts replaced ?. With genuine parts.

at my work we have a 4 wheel alignment machine. we remove 1 camber bolt from each side and replace them with ones from a camry. This gives a few more mm to play with in the camber. You are them able to pull 1 side out and the other side in to adjust the camber so the vehicle will drive straight. I did this to my own Aurion last year at about 18000klms. In my understanding toyota will pay for it if its under 30000klm ????.

a lot of dealers sublet their wheel alignments and i think are not interested as their techs don't get right into specs on w/a. They cant make money on a sublet under warranty.

p.s. dont expect to get warranty on an after market part fitment.

What is the difference between old and an improved version of the driveshaft.

In all honesty , i'm not sure. The only way to tell the difference between the old and new is that the top section is left unpainted for easy identification. possibly the component is made by a different manufacturer ?. Just now it is revised and the part number is 1 more digit along

i've seen the A/C switch issue about 4 times now. If the button is pressured really hard it seems to play up. If you have reported it more than once to the dealer ask them to replace the a/c heater control unit. It's not a hard thing to replace.

if it was reported whilst in warranty and then plays up outside of warranty ask the dealer to place a prior / outside of warranty authorisation request.

The painted cover is clipped into place , once off there is 3 screws securing the lamp and they are torx head screws

what series of nokia is the phone ?. if it's a smart phone did you connect it as phone/audio ?.

the cheapest way would be to try a new battery and go from there.mine had some issues when the battery was going and i was reminded with the display telling me so.they say to replace them every 2 years. There are'nt any neighbours with a big microwave dish are there ?.

i've seen a couple of issues (strange ones) when a car is parked near a TAB and the car won't open , another brand vehicle would not start . i told the nrma man to push it 100 meters down the road and try again and off it went.

I agree with Unique give a few hundred k's to settle in, remember its got to do its learning thing. then you will see how much better it is.

i had the 2nd to 3rd flare issue on my zr6. we at work also had a customers presara flaring severely, we had authority to replace the complete auto on the presara, that seemed to fix their issue.

i seeked authorization from toyota to replace my auto and i was told to hold off, i filled out a questionaire on the the auto issues and received correspondence to replace the auto ecu ( it is now a revised type, software wise)

now this is after a few things were done. The auto level would need the extra 200ml done first. then check to see if the ecu compensation codes were properly programmed in , do a full reset as Djkor said.

i had then replaced the ecu and had to run it for 1 month and report back. It would have made about 90% difference.

this is an extremely hard one to diagnose , as the owner you drive it 100% of the time and as a dealer we see it for a fraction of that time and it may not always play up. I noticed mine would do it at the same place and time every day , due to temperature ,decline in the roads surface and throttle position. It got the the point when cold i learnt how to make it flare.

so if you have the issue of flaring 2nd to 3rd around 50 -60kph under light accel see the dealer , request it be checked cold , overnight and a snapshot taken on it2 so it can be also confirmed by toyota technical department and if still under warranty get a new auto ecu. Ive test driven government dept vehicles in for a standard service and i experienced the flare. i got an ecu ordered and fitted , hence the local health dept never complained about the flare (they just drove it , its not their car ??lol)

Hi

My 2006 Presara has, for the last couple of months, developed a frequent problem.

All the controls connected to the screen (Satnav, telephone, audio, menu dest, tuner etc) freeze. When I press anything connected to the screen there is an approx 20 second delay, if not more, until it actions the selection.

For example, if I am using the satnav to get from A to B and I want to change radio stations, both the steering wheel buttons (Mode and the Up and Down arrows) will not perform until at least approx 20 seconds after pressing them. The sat naf screen sort of works still. The red positioning marker still moves and the map still moves showing your location. However the information box in the top right hand corner (which shows, for example, turn left in 5km's) becomes just a white blank box. All these freezes start working again when the system feels like it and will no doubt start freezing again not long after. It just keeps doing it.

This also happens with anything else sonnected to the screen as mentioned above. The controls on the right hand side of the steering wheel (related to the air con) work fine and all the air con controls on the dash are fine.

Thankfully, my cruise control works ok.

Has anyone had a similar issue?

Cheers

Budgoi

Just a thought , if you do what djkor said and its still no go , check there is nothing touching the screen on the outer edges . I have seen a couple of older klugers with this issue and there is dust, dirt or debris pressuring the touch screen causing no response. albeit i have had a worse case where the unit was removed and loosened the facia off to gain a further clearance (i know it is a different model in kluger , as said just a thought)

As promised in the AUX thread i started, heres the next project i have been working on....

For people out there with slightly advanced knowledge in electronics etc (and even those that dont keep reading!!!) this is a really nice addition to the AUX on your stock HU.

Basically all i have done is to tap into (not modify in any way!!) the stock steering wheel controls. I have a microcontroller sitting there monitoring the line voltages and when they change id deciphers what button has been pressed depending on what the voltage drops to.

To this same microcontroller i have connected the 30pin dock connector for an ipod/iphone through the serial port.

Through serial communication with the ipod quite a lot is possible, check out what you can do here - for simplicity reasons i have thus far only used mode 2.

So basically i can connect whatever functions i like (from the above link) up to any button press (or button press sequence) on the steering wheel!!

I have a fully functioning version of this in my car at the moment and it has been in there for about 8 weeks now with no probs so far. I have tested it with an iphone 3gs, ipod nano 3rg gen and an ipod classic 6th gen. It SHOULD work with any apple ipod/iphone which uses the above protocol.

the functionality i have given my unit so far is to switch on the ipod/iphone and begin playing when the unit is plugged in (with the car on of course!) and for the track up and down buttons to work with the track up and down on the ipod . SIMPLE!

The only prob i have at the moment is that i can not find the cable that i need, so unfortunately i have a control cable (in the form of ribbon cable) and a shielded cable running to the unit separately which i do not like the look of.

Please keep in mind this whole thing is a prototype that i threw together in a day, it worked perfectly and i havent touched it since!!

I would really like to make one of these units properly - that is get a proper pcb made up and make it out of surface mount components. I could get it down quite small (bout 20x20mm roughly) and make it look tidy (unlike my prototype!!).

Before i continue, id just like to add that: im not trying to make money here, im not interested in making money from these projects and i am posting this purely because it interests me and if i can help people out in achieving the same things i have then i will be happy - my two projects thus far have certainly made my driving life much easier and more pleasurable. If in any way i am breaching rules etc of this forum let me know as i my intentions are all positive.

So.. i would love to get a batch of these made up with properly manufactured PCB's and surface mount components. Would any of you guys be interested in being a part of this?? Not saying this is going to happen just wondering if its a feasible option to consider and gauging what the interest would be.

Also, any ideas on what sort of functionality you would like to see in this? i love playing around with this stuff and would welcome every suggestion as to how to make this a more useful device for us all.

If anyone is interested in further details (code, schematics etc) let me know.

great idea , i thought someone would have come up with this idea. Saves me leaving the ipod touch collecting dust in my study if i can fit it up to the aurion ( wife digs me about the mazda sp25 having ipod conection ,lol)

They have refitted the dash under warranty - CHECK (but now auto-headlights don't work).

Chances are they forgot to connect the ambient light sensor when they re-ftitted your dash. Easy fix, but if you are going back there, you can just get them to look at it if you want.

As for your knocking issues etc, it sounds like the same issue I have where my steering rack mounts are stuffed, but I think mine is more of a rarer case that doesn't happen to many Aurion's from the sounds of it.

The thing is, there are three possible faults being the intermediate shaft, steering rack ends, or steering rack mounts. Each of these can produce very similar symptoms, so without seeing it first hand, you can't simply say over the internet which issue you have. It's like trying to diagnose an illness over the phone.

Checking the steering rack ends and mounts will be much easier if you can hoist your car up so you can visually inspect everything. The intermediate shaft can be inspected from inside the car, but you will have to loosen a few things to test for play in it.

Hey Everyone , im a newb here. own a 2006 zr6 silver with 23000klms.

just a bit of background , i currently work for a toyota dealer and have been there for 22 years , qualified tech , done time in spare parts ,service advisor,workshop controller then branch service manager but now just quality controlling whilst the now closed branch gets rebuilt (sometime in the next 2 years ???).

the steering shaft spline issue that appears on some vehicles is becoming more prevalent. Mine showed up just as my warranty was ending. Now the shafts are on back order from japan. There is a service bulletin stating the part was a production change and there is a photo showing the difference between the old and revised part. my issue was noticeable at 20000klms. When the vehicle accelerates and brakes with a slight amount of steering input it can be felt , the splines are a slip joint. The rack is mounted to the sub frame and the sub frame is rubber mounted to the body so movement is expected (you probably shouldn't be able to feel it ?)

the shaft is the same as 40 series camry and currently there are a few 100 on back order. i have diagnosed 1 camry with this knock (the worst ive seen) and the car has over 300000 klms .

so the knock is felt as described and is not normally felt going lock to lock whilst stationary hence a seized or notchy uni joint in the steering shaft like mcu28 kluger or aca33 rav 4.

cheers Tim