Jaym

Injector Clean? A simple compression test can tell you if you need a reco.if you have good compresion then chances are its a problem elsewhere. Sorry i just noticed you have a TD.. Aftermarket turbo's arent reccomended on these diesels. you will shorten the life of the engine dramatically.

Injector Clean? A simple compression test can tell you if you need a reco.if you have good compresion then chances are its a problem elsewhere.

the 2.8l will is your best option... Great kit

C150 rob... Exact same as old one. The only thing is i have a noise coming from somewhere which i didnt have before.. I know theres endless amounts of possibilites as to what it could be so, so ill let it go for now. Yes i agree with you on the pivot ripping out of the casing!! It just shouldnt happen! the gearbox must of had a big knock from mounting a kerb or something previously.

Guys, see Latest post.. Finally swapped gearbox

Hi Folks, Swapped the gearbox with a second hand box on the weekend along with a new clutch, flywheel, appropriate seals etc.. The old Box had a hole in it where the T/O bearing fork pivot is. the Pivot had Ripped out of the Bell housing.. F*&&ed if i know how! All good now.. Although Just a slight scratching noise coming from somewhere.. Who knows wat that is 95% bette through. See pics

I spoke to JAP WORLD SPARES in tempe sydney and they have a reconditioned 5 sp man gearbox out of a 99 Echo.. not a sportivo for 500$ The gearbox in the 1.3 is diff to the 1.5 but with that said, if there is nothing wrong with your existing box (e.g not grinding, making noise, etc), why replace it? IMO just take the car to a gearbox specialist and get it looked at. The gearbox in the 1.3 & 1.5 Manuals are the same Are you sure, they are definitely different in the yaris. Yer identical

I spoke to JAP WORLD SPARES in tempe sydney and they have a reconditioned 5 sp man gearbox out of a 99 Echo.. not a sportivo for 500$ The gearbox in the 1.3 is diff to the 1.5 but with that said, if there is nothing wrong with your existing box (e.g not grinding, making noise, etc), why replace it? IMO just take the car to a gearbox specialist and get it looked at. The gearbox in the 1.3 & 1.5 Manuals are the same

It's a dead set lucky dip. one wrecker said $350- 30 days parts and labour warranty ( unknown cond ) One $550- apparently out of a 2005 model 1.3 litre 3 months parts and labour warr. ( unkown kms ) One 895$- Im told travelled 68,000 Kms been tested, comes with 6 months parts and labour warranty

What should i look for in a second hand gearbox? Should i only purchase one that is STILL in the car? Ensure it has a warranty etcc.. Ive had a few quotes on a manual gearbox ( echo ) and the prices have ranged from 895- 350$ Any help would be great

Probably not to find a leak, if its even coming from the gearbox. and besides, this way you KNOW the gearbox is in good condition, you arent taking a gamble on a used box. Well its Definately thin clear transmission oil pooling at the lower mounting bolts.. ive had it looked at several times, and its not coming from the driveshaft seals. it couldnt possibly be leaking from anywhere bar from within the bellhousing of the box.. Once it leaks from within side the bell housing.. it pools in the bottom and leaks down

Wont this be an expensive exercise.. They wil need to strip it down??

I spoke to JAP WORLD SPARES in tempe sydney and they have a reconditioned 5 sp man gearbox out of a 99 Echo.. not a sportivo for 500$ The gearbox in the 1.3 is diff to the 1.5 but with that said, if there is nothing wrong with your existing box (e.g not grinding, making noise, etc), why replace it? IMO just take the car to a gearbox specialist and get it looked at Wont this be an expensive exercise.. They wil need to strip it down

They should invent cruise control for manual vehicles :)

I spoke to JAP WORLD SPARES in tempe sydney and they have a reconditioned 5 sp man gearbox out of a 99 Echo.. not a sportivo for 500$

A fair few guys will be familiar with what im going to discuss here from my previous posts.. My gearbox is leaking oil ( 5 SP Man ). After many opinions on what it could be seems the most popular is input shaft seal. However alot of mech's / enthusiasts have said very unusual for the seal to be leaking.. One mechanic inspected the gearbox and found a chunk taken off one of the fins on the underside of the gearbox, meaning it had been hit by something or even mounted a kerb. I had a look myself and it did not quite appear like the damage was reflected on such a collision ( mounting a kerb ) but there was damage to the fin. said you may fix the seal and it may still leak.. he recommended a reconditioned gearbox. Can anyone suggest anything on this.. Im starting to pull my hair out!!!!!!!!

I was told as much as 1mm out of positioning can affect the function of the meter ?

I rang unifilter.. bastards dont do them anymore.. MAF are ultra sensitive and unless positioned correctly according to volume of air passing through, car wont run

take a look at the photo in your last thread... there is no value as far as i can remember, just a hose coming out of the cam cover. Yer its weird.. i looked at the manual and its says there is a actual valve.. but i dont know where do you the where abouts of the inlet heater hose?? i want to flush the cooling system.. and in order to do this want to install a back flow prevention valve on the inlet heater hose, then connect a hose to the valve and away i go. Why? Why not? General maintanence.. who knows when it was done last

Hi Guys i noticed its time for a flush.. getting a fair bit of browny rusty deposits floating around the top of the radiator and a few other main hoses. Is the best way to insert a T-Valve on the inlet heater hose and flush with a hose until clear?? Or Just drain existing radiator fluid top up with radiator flush and run car and then drain and re fill with fresh coolant. Cheers

take a look at the photo in your last thread... there is no value as far as i can remember, just a hose coming out of the cam cover. Yer its weird.. i looked at the manual and its says there is a actual valve.. but i dont know where do you the where abouts of the inlet heater hose?? i want to flush the cooling system.. and in order to do this want to install a back flow prevention valve on the inlet heater hose, then connect a hose to the valve and away i go.

Where is it located? Little sucker

You are probably better off cruising around at 60 in 4th... lower rpm does not always equal better fuel economy. Really how does that work?

You will need to keep (or get a new) the stock MAF mount. however you can remove the stock airbox. You can probaly find a premaid CAI on ebay, or get one made up for you. Thanks man, is there another sensor that goes into the air box??

And any tips on relocating existing air sensors?