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Ive never had a problem with oversteer and not really any understeer (maybe i just enter corners at the right speed) but yeah i have all aftermarket sway bars and strut braces so that might help.

I agree Dynos mean nothing for the Sportivo, its not all about peak output, its about drivability and most of all hitting lift quickly and keeping it in lift between gear changes. The CAI and exhaust will give you better quarter mile times, i have no doubt about that. Next time save your money and don't bother with dynos, have a drag day.

found this supra tt brakes on an 1S200

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116389

I've filled up twice, and the needle never seems to quite reach the very top of the gauge. I assumed that was normal. Like the fuel light coming on, even though there should technically be about 20 litres left in the tank.

Yeah mine goes all the way to the top, but yeah when the fuel light comes on i also have at least 20l fuel in the tank.

I dont know if the TRD shocks will be matched to your Pedders Springs, may just wear em out quickly.

If you wanna spend a bit extra get some Tein Super Wagon Coilovers (3kg front and rear), Can go low without the side effects, but I dont think handling will as good as your current package. The Tein GT Wagons are better (4kg f and r) but cost alot more.

Dunno about the canister Jason didn't have enough time to have a really good look!!

As for lag etc etc the turbo on the car was supplied by the owner and that was what he wanted to use. Bill's set up would perhaps be better to drive but the boys at CES have done what they can with what they have been supplied.Engine has been rebuilt with forged internals(pistons,rods valves,springs etc etc) so me thinks engine isn't the weak point but more so the gearbox and suspension(stock shocks with low kings).

It should push some pretty decent numbers so i will update sometime this week with more info.....

such a waste of money in my view without all the proper build up involved (internals, brakes, sussy etc) if the guy wants numbers buy a s14 or 15 little mods huge results may not be original but il take that over a 2zz motor any day considering how much a sr20 costs

Obviously you didn't read this thread too well. The entire engine has been pulled apart and been strengthened in the necessary areas. Put someone in this car who can drive and it would most prolly run close to similiar numbers of a s14/15 with decent mods. CES were estimating between 210-250kw atw from this car. Yes it needs brakes and it needs suspension upgrades but it's not our car nor does it belong to CES so it's entriely up to the owner to do something about it. CES have already on numerous occasions mentioned the need for upgrades in these areas but in the end the owner makes the decision.

Foolish to leave it as it is cause it will only end in a world of pain me thinks....

I'd say u'd have to do some internal work to safely get those numbers from an SR20, but yeah if you dont care about reliablity I suppose it can be done cheaper with an SR20.

Every car gets rattles. Subwoofer and stiff suspension dont help either. Just turn up the music and 4get about it, ive spend many weekends trying to find the cause without too much luck.

Hmm i havent experianced any extra understeer with my front sway, it just got rid of my axle tramp.

No go the top one, the corolas look crap with the rear in the air.

mmm, maybe get a set of smashed lights from the wreckors (i.e accord euro, impreza III, maz 3) and customise it yourself. The only hard part i can think of is getting access to the adjustments, mabe getting a sturdy mont too, well its all hard, waste of time and money actually. The corolla headlights are good as they are, y change.

Your money is better spent for a quarter mile day instead of the dyno. Who like watching paint dry!!!

depends how hardcore u wanna go

front sway, trd member brace, semi-slick tyres, lsd, gut your interior to shave some weight, upgrade your coilies to cusco, tein ones and sell the one u have to me real cheap , bucket seat so u can stay in your seat to do what u have to do in an apex........

Cuscos zero 2 coilovers would be a good upgrade, the teins would be a downgrade as they only make super wagon spec coils for the rolla (3 + 3 spring rate and bugger all adjustments).

18x7.5 should be fine with a super low drop (depends on tyres though), but if you actually want a good drop, i dont reccomend them.

Hi all, I am looking for tein S-Tech springs for my sportivo. But I found 2 models below:

Tein S-Tech (2zz): SKL56-S1B00 (F-50mm & 3.9kg/mm, R-45mm & 4.2kg/mm)

Tein S-Tech (2zz): SKY60-S1B00 (F-50mm & 1.9-2.6kg/mm, R-35mm & 1.5-3.4kg/mm)

Does any1 know the difference between those 2? (I know 1 lowers more at rear wheels. )

Thanks

The top one will be stiffer!!!!!!!

this has been covered b4, search!!!

na no labour, i'll do it myself. changing brakes is as easy as changing you underwear (although some may struggle with both) especially since there is no machining invloved. All bolt off, bolt on.

I just ordered RDA slotted discs for front ($170 pair), RDA slotted rotors rear ($200 pair), EBC Green Stuff Pads Front ($125) and Bendix GCT Pads rear ($60). All up $555. I dunno if thats good, but i have no pads left and they will be delived tomoz, so no time to shop around. I got bendix rears cuz the car is only for street use, the rear only do 10%, the EBC take a bit to warm up so i want to have some braking capacity on a cold morning and plus thats all the money i have.

my stivo pads have grinded since 10000km, they are some crap compound pads.

yep my rego sticker says 1070kg, definentley not correct

Its fit perfect on the '05 stivos i can also guarantee that and no need for spacers etc. Just getting a downward facing muffler tip rather than cutting, a hole, since it usally looks like a hack job.

I agree a bit of lag with a fwd may not be a bad idea, so once your off the line you can fly by (as long as it comes in around 3.5-4grand RPM). However, they could have centred the intercooler a bit better, and why no cold air? plus i got a couple of other issues, but i suppose its a first try and its much easier (and cheaper) to use cable ties

Any price figures on the turbo install?

I'm in the same boat, getting new rotors and pads. I may just get the crossdrilled discs cuz i'm a bit worried tha tthe slotted disks will severly reduce the life of my pads. For those with slotted rotors, how long have your pads lasted u?

Note: my car is only for street use.

Yep saddle oil is the best.

There is not much adjustability in those coilovers and they are entry level products, plus shipping to aus would be a fair bit due to the weight and size of the box, and you want tracking and insurance on your package. Also do the Matrix ones fit the aus spec rollas, cuz i assume if they did, they would advertise them as matrix and corolla coilovers (since the corolla suspension is simular to ours in the US). Personally i think you would really want to have an adjustment on the bottom of the coil (i.e. not to wear your shocks out quickly if you run a low setting), damper and camber adjustments. Maybe better off goin with D2s for similar or less money. But i reckon the above are an ok alternative to regular spring and shock set-ups (if they fit). Plus the matrix is heavier than the corolla (its like 1400kg) so im not sure if the preset dampening will suit.

My mates BA falcon (standard six) made 177kw at the wheels, although its quoted 182kw at the fly (3% loss which i dont think is possible). I've heard of other spotivos that have done 132kw at the wheels. I'm iffy about dynos and the people that set em up. I reckon the only way to tell for sure is down the track, but i suppose that has its own variables too.

So yeah just accept 141kw at the engine with slightly better perfomance with minor mods. Each car is different and there are alot of variables.

Plus ive wasted over a couple hundred bux on dyno reads, which could have been spent on beer!!!!!!!!!!!!!