SATORI893

Didn't want to start a new thread so using this one. I got a letter from Toyota on Friday, It reads -

Campaign number BGG55

Toyota is contacting you to inform of a Safety Related Recall Campaign involving your Aurion.  YOur vehicle is equipped with a driver's side Power Window Mater(I think they mean Master) Switch containing sliding electrical contact modules. These modules are lubricated with a sprayed-on grease that may have been applied inconsistently during the manufacturing process, not providing sufficient coverage. During normal operation, debris caused by wear from the electrical contact points can accumulate between the terminals where the grease was insufficiently applied, and a short circuit could form between the contact points by the debris. If a short circuit occurs, the switch assembly may overheat and melt. A melting switch may produce smoke and, potentially, lead to fire.

Then is says the usual, to make an appointment to have the switch inspected for more grease or to have the circuit board replaced if need.

Thought I'd share, couldn't find a previous thread on the subject.

I did the muffler delete on mine, 2 " pipes not mandrel bent. Drone was annoying, vibrated all through the interior, coins in the center console would rattle, I ended up bolting the factory units back on.

They look great, love the switches, they match the factory ones.

I'd just clean the loose bits off and apply some rust proofing to avoid it rusting later.

I found the pic above on my computer, I have a scanned copy of the genuine Toyota installations instructions also. Tried to upload them but it says I cant use them on this community. Is photobucket not compatible with here anymore?

Does the memory system have a fuse somewhere? Does the seat move? I'd be checking those fuses also if you haven't already.

Big mirrors? Does your Presara have mirror memory with the seat position? Not sure if Aurions remember the mirrors settings for each seating position, I know Lexus do, That unit you found behind the glove box must have some sort of power cut as a short protector because you would find a blown fuse. I read through the fuse location list and a few have the hazard and turn signal but not the mirror motor function, only fuse 22 ECU-ACC says outside mirrors in my manual. Maybe test for power with both mirrors unplugged? Having one stock and one aftermarket may be confusing that control unit. It has me stumped, It all reminds me of doing mine and I had to change the plugs on the new ones. Plug and play is not always what it seems.

The positive on those leds is the wire that connects to the striped thing (resistor) in the bottom of the bulb. That has to be put in the positive position.

Depending on what you have to test, multimeter or test light, if you connect the test light earth then probe the socket, the terminal that lights up the test light is positive so you need to get the led in the right way for that, if you are using a multimeter, black wire to earth as 07Prodigy said then probe that socket with the red till you get a 12vdc reading, if it's -12v you have the earth side but you shouldn't get any reading from the earth (negative) in the socket. Can you test the leds to see if the work? It's always good to know the bulb does work.

The T5 may be faulty creating a short, try it the other way if you haven't yet, if it throws the climate control lights no matter which way you have the T5 then the bulb is definately faulty.

So your park lights and tail lights don't work? If they don't the fuse is under the glovebox inside the car, Fuse number 10. Tail - 15A, that does all of them.

Yeah that fuse is ok. Does the main interior light work? When the dome fuse is in.

Yeah I saw that when I viewed the other pic, HORN is your best one, wont affect the driving of the car or any other systems.

The HORN fuse in the same box is a 10 amp, you can use that in the DOME to check things

And I see there is no fuse in that location.

If that fuse is blown, you could borrow that one on the left side of the box, on the cover its labelled RR FOG, that is a 10 amp and I it is for rear fog lights I think, mine has fog lights but no fuse there so that one should be ok to swap for now.

Passenger side of the engine bay behind the battery. Black box.

Yeah inside it sorry. I mean the fuse box in the engine bay.

Yeah my book says DOME, 10 amp fuse in the engine bay

Do you park lights come on outside the car? If the don't then it's the park light fuse, if it's interior lights tho I think the fuse is called 'Dome'

Yeh check the fuses, but make sure the LED is in the right way, leave it out when you change the fuse. If the fuse is blown that is a good thing, no other damage then, a test light (or multimeter) will tell you which terminal is positive in the selector bulb's socket, once you have that in right then all should be ok. I used the same T5 led in mine but I used a test light to find the positive first but I was upgrading all the interior bulbs to led so I didn't want to short circuit anything. I even changed the cigarette lighter light to LED and the ashtray light...lol

Hopefully they are on the same circuit, you may have blown the LED to but they have reverse polarity protection in some of them. If the LED works after reversing it, but your climate control lights don't the LED may have blown those bulbs. But don't panic yet, One thing at a time, fix the LED in the shifter, if it still doesn't work use a test light or the old T5 bulb and check there is power at the selector socket, if none then check fuses. Fuses ok and shifter light works but not air con lights then I would say the bulbs have blown, standard T5s are cheap so no big drama.

The resistor is the striped thing you can see inside the bulb. That is the positve terminal, they have to be put in the right way or they will not work. It could be throwing everything out.

Yeah those bulbs are LED, try taking it out and reversing it, they might work then, you have to have the terminal with the resistor on the postive terminal.