Hiro

12 hours ago, Daveo 2003 3RZN154R said:

My mate has told me the engine has changed the firing order to the downstroke would it change the engines firing order to its exhaust downstroke. I don't understand if or how this could be possible

 

On the surface it sounds like total nonsense, but there is a kernel of possibility in there.  Firstly, firing _order_ is a function of the distributor cap and the spark plug wires, but to run right it relies on matching the order in which the camshafts open/close the valves and the crankshaft moves the pistons up/down.  If none of those things have been changed as part of the turbo install, then firing _order_ isn't the problem (standard for a 4-cylinder is 1-3-4-2).  Confirming your leads are going to the right spark plugs is a quick and free check though, and an easy thing to stuff up when putting everything back together if you were forgetful/distracted.

Ignition _timing_, on the other hand, is what you would be looking at if the diagnosis was that the engine was firing on the downstroke.  Normally, ignition timing is set to fire the spark plugs just BEFORE top-dead piston centre (ie, on the compression upstroke, this is called timing ADVANCE), so that the combustion occurs at the very top of the cycle to impart the most downwards force to the piston.  If the ignition timing is completely out, then the spark plugs might be firing AFTER top-dead centre (timing RETARD), which will make the engine run like a bucket of bolts and also incredibly rich.  Get a strobe and see what the timing is doing.

However, the fact that you're contemplating installing a Haltech makes me think you've done this turbo upgrade without touching the factory computer, which in reality is most likely to be the culprit.  Whilst it can work in some scenarios, running more than a small amount of boost through an NA engine/computer without any other upgrades is a recipe for disaster, as the ECU doesn't know how to handle the extra air (or can't even measure it properly to begin with) and will just flail around trying to adjust.

Also, there is no "exhaust downstroke".  In a suck-squeeze-bang-blow 4stroke, the exhaust part of the cycle is an upstroke of the piston (to force the burnt gases out of the combustion chamber).  Intake (suck) = downstroke.  Compression (squeeze) = upstroke.  Power/combustion (bang) = downstroke.  Exhaust (blow) = upstroke.

On 4/28/2024 at 1:54 PM, Jimmyao said:

I was told jy Toyota hilux grinner 1990 2xd was rare 10 years ago. I just read in good condition they fetch around 50,000. My car is in good condition and has service history and receipts. Can anyone tell if this is true. 

No way in hell that a 1990 Grinner (which is the absolute basest of base models) is worth $50k, unless we're talking pesos.  $5k maybe.

If you're actually asking a question, you need to provide a little more detail...

On 4/20/2024 at 3:03 AM, ASHX said:

Ah I see, I had no idea aisan was related to toyota. I initially thought it was clone of aisin or smth

You'll see quite a few Japanese companies which have similar names to other ones due to the syllabic Japanese language (words are made up of syllables rather than distinct letters, so there are only so many combinations), or because they are named after their founding (and many people/places have similar names, also due to the syllabic nature).  Both Aisin and Aisan get the first half of their name from the Aichi Prefecture (a Japanese province) they started in, it gets a bit complicated after that (Japanese is a strange language, you can have individual syllables that are pronounced one way but when combined with another are pronounced differently, so the San part of Aisan comes from Mie Prefecture (both san and mi are related to the number three).  Aisin comes from when Aichi Kogyo (Aichi Industries) merged with Shinkawa Kogyo (Shinkawa Industries) to form Aisin Seiki (Aisin Standard, or something similar).

Another good example is that a lot of Toyotas will have Mitsuboshi (Three Stars) accessory belts, not to be confused with Mitsubishi (Three Diamonds)

Aisan (not to be confused with Aisin by the way) has been an OEM supplier for Toyota carburetor, throttle-body and fuel-injection components since the '60s.  Unlike Denso and Aisin though, they're not actually part of the Toyota Group (but Toyota does have a financial interest in them)

One of the only things working against (or for, depending on your viewpoint) the ST204 Celica is that a bunch of them were probably crushed as a result of not being able to source replacement airbags during the Takata recall (a similar fate befell the Starlet).  I don't think all models had that particular airbag though so it probably disproportionally affected certain trim-levels too.  This might artificially inflate the rarity of what was generally seen as a nondescript uninspiring 90s hair-dresser "sports car" that still sold reasonably well.

5 hours ago, ozieagle said:

Just looked up carsales and there is only one, at $35,000.

 

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1998-toyota-celica-sx-manual/SSE-AD-16667721/?Cr=0

 

Herb

That one is in no way indicative (GT4 engine conversion, and is over-priced for a genuine 1-of-77 Aus delivered GT4 anyway, let alone a conversion), and there are a few ST204s up at the moment, varying from reasonably priced (5-10k) to ridiculous.

At the end of the day, a FWD Celica just isn't that "special" a car, especially with an auto.

Swap the driver's and passenger side globes, see if the problem travels (that will 100% confirm whether it is the bulb itself or not).  Are they a combined dual-filament globe (probably H4) or separate globes for high and low?  With the combined bulbs you can get some funny occurrences, I had a scenario on my old AE102 where the brake light would come on when I press the pedal, the tail-light would come on when I turned the headlights on, but if I did _both_ then nothing happened (turned out one of the filaments had broken and was shorting out on the other

18 hours ago, JulianS said:

I'd recommend www.sellanycarfast.com.au

The irony of what appears to be a spambot replying to an 18-year-old post with a link to "Sell any car fast"....

You'd most likely need some kind of RFID-blocker (either a box to put everything in, or a pouch that you put the keys inside and then inside a normal lock box), can't imagine these would be too hard to find given how paranoid people are these days.

There's no such thing as a Rav4 GR.  There is a GR Sport, but like most of those that is just a bodykit/trim/sticker package, maybe with better wheels and slightly firmer suspension.

On 2/23/2024 at 8:35 PM, Novicebutnice said:

The SL is a completely different car, the last of the Australian built Camry's were in 2017,

They then "changed shape" a.k.a completely new car in 2017/2018 and these were built in Japan

The "SL" is part of the "new range" that is built in Japan

Depends on your definition, there was an Atara SL in the XV50 series that was built in Australia (XV50 so same generation as the RZ), the Atara name was dropped when they moved to the Jap-sourced XV70 series in late 2017.

3 hours ago, Saz said:

I just had change my hand brake shoe on my 2002 camry altise 2.4. and the brakes of when its downhill facing front, but the brake does not catch when it is downhill ( slope ) facing backwards. Also I am confused, How many brake shoe does a camry have; I just changed one on the rear right side.

 

There are two handbrake shoe pairs in total, one for each rear wheel

2 hours ago, Jacaranda said:

He also said that the RH drive shaft leak could be fluid that has dripped from the power steering pump which I'm assuming is situated above. 

Wouldn't he know the difference between engine oil from the timing cover and power steering fluid or do they look and feel similar? 

Drive-shaft oil leak (if coming from the diff oil seal area) would be transmission fluid, not engine oil.  ATF and PS fluid are very similar (and some cars will run ATF in the power steering system anyway).

If the "driveshaft leak" is from a CV/tripod joint then it would be grease, very different to both engine oil and PS/ATF.

15 hours ago, ASHX said:

Thanks for answering, for the oil the owner's manual suggests 10w-30 all the way up to 20w-50. I found castol gtx 20w-50 grade for 50$ so I might use that, as for the oil filter I can't find toyota genuine ones in my area and don't want to wait for it to get shipped. I'm thinking of using K&N although I have no idea if they are good or not. 

For the oil filter just go with a normal Ryco one, never had a problem with them on Toyotas and they're readily available at Supercheap etc.

Wheels/tyres can make a big difference too, the RZs run 18s whereas the SLs are only 17s (which for the same overall diameter means more tyre sidewall for a softer ride).

2 hours ago, Willy wagon said:

Thanks for that extra info Ian! Re swapping the motor for a sedan one.....I have thought of that but I was under the impression they might be different units due to the fact that the wagon antenna protrudes through the side of the fender and the sedan one protrudes through the top of the fender if you know what I mean.

I'm talking about replacing the actual guts of the motor, you'd re-use the wagon housing to retain the mounting.  Both housings may actually be the same anyway, with the only difference being the shape of the "grommet" to suit the angle/curve of the rear quarter panel

21 hours ago, Willy wagon said:

Thanks Ian. No, there is no noise coming from the motor at all. It's as dead as a doornail. 

I wonder if it is worth trying to take the motor out and taking it apart? Is this possible?

Definitely doesn't hurt, but be prepared to get covered in grease.  Also make sure that you take notes as to how it all goes together, as well as being careful so that the mast cord doesn't go flying (it gets coiled up around the spindle when the antenna is retracted, so much like a whipper snipper or mower starter cord it tends to "release" itself very easily once you remove the housing.  Had to do this on the ex's SXV20 antenna (hers had stripped some of the teeth so you could "assist" the mast up and down through the stripped bits but otherwise it would just sit there and grind away non-stop until it timed out.

Potentially, if the motor is dead but everything else is fine you might be able to swap in the motor from a sedan one and keep the wagon housing, as sedans are much more common.

Does the motor make any noise when you turn the radio on?  Often it is the plastic "cable" inside the antenna mast which breaks rather than the motor itself (so you get a crunching/whirring noise but no movement), in which case you can buy just a new mast and replace that rather than a whole new motor.  Finding a new one might be hard though as I'm pretty sure the wagon one is unique, plus online catalogues etc often don't list them due to the wagon not being sold in the US and Europe, plus a lot of them overseas (both sedan and wagon) had aerials integrated in to the rear windows rather than the older-style telescoping mast.

6 hours ago, carson6324 said:

hey mate i know this was 7 years ago but do you sitll have those parts

Close, this thread was made 17 years ago, and the person you've replied to hasn't visited the forums since 2012 (12 years ago)

On 1/20/2024 at 12:39 PM, jasper_27S said:

I searched all over the internet but can't find a pdf copy or even pictures of the owner's manual in English. 

I hope someone here has one. It's okay if it's not that clear as long as it's readable.

Thank you very much!! Cheers!

FYI this is an Australian-based forum and we never got the first-generation Fortuner.  Not saying that someone mightn't have one, but your odds probably aren't very good

JBL reference will be for the premium audio package that the US got I believe, it ran a separate amp etc so the speaker connections are different than standard.,

If you're using the standard scissor jack on the correct spot on the sill pinch-weld (between the two notches, like you said) then there's no danger of damaging the car.  I've had to jack up cars with a scissor jack almost until the jack has locked out just to get the wheels off the ground (and it's important to know you can do this, in case you're stuck by the side of the road with a flat tyre and nothing else)

Also, I assume the strut part numbers are actually RSA3115 and RSA3215, as RSA3225 appears to be for the next generation

Need to lift higher.  What type of jack are you using, and whereabouts are you lifting from?

If you're not tracking it, then a baffled sump isn't needed.  Quite a few people have used the 1ZZ sump instead (which is baffled to a degree, but nowhere near as much as the Moroso one) but it may require a little fettling around the pickup tube to get it to fit properly (opinions/experience seems to vary in regards to this).  A lot cheaper than the Moroso though