Hiro

That Nissan Thailand build plate threw me for a minute until I saw the Tiida in the background...

2004 is before OBDII was mandated in Australia, so there's a good chance it's still either a proprietary Toyota system (ie Techstream) or J-OBD but using the OBDII style plug.  I know for my 2006 Corolla the scanner connects via ISO 9141-2, but it also auto-detects it so I don't have to choose anything (it just cycles through them one by one until it gets a response ping)

8 hours ago, Squalled said:

So my car is cable, one of the last of the Corolla's I believe to run it.

Yep, whilst the 2ZZ in the Sportivo stayed cable the 1ZZ changed to drive-by-wire at the ZZE122 facelift, and every Corolla since has been DBW

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Hilarious. Karmic in some ways too 😜

Back in the 80's I also recall a famous sticker that used to get around with an Ethnic flavour.

"You toucha my car, I breaka you face" 🤣🤣🤣

Anyone remember that one ??

And the classic "Insured by kung-fu/the Mafia - you hit me, I hit you"

28 minutes ago, cranswick said:

l think they stopped making camrys in Australia after 2013

Last Australian-made Camry/Aurion was in 2017, so it is only the current generation that was imported.

First one looks like a dash illumination dimmer.  Second one is the hand-throttle.

Toyota are correct, your engine (7AFE) has a MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure, aka vacuum) sensor, not a MAF (Mass Air Flow) or AFM (Air Flow Meter) sensor.  The MAP sensor will be a small black box most likely bolted to the firewall, and connected to the intake plenum via a vacuum hose.  It is also most likely not the problem.

Engines need 3 basic things to run - fuel, air, and ignition (known as the fire triangle).  If the delivery (or the timing) of any of these is impacted, then the engine won't run properly (or at all).

Air is the easiest to check, and is also the one least likely to cause problems - basically, unless the air filter is completely blocked, or the throttle is stuck closed and the idle passages gummed up (or conversely a significant vacuum leak after the throttle), then the engine will run fine.

Next is ignition.  Check the condition of your spark plugs, plug leads, distributor cap and rotor, and replace anything which is worn/cracked/broken.  If you can get the engine running, then bridge the TE1 and E1 pins on the engine diagnostics connector (under the black plastic cap attached to the passenger side strut tower) and use a timing light to check that the base timing is correct (should be about 10 degrees BTDC).  If not, then loosen the distributor and rotate it to set the correct base timing.  The condition of the spark plugs can also help diagnose if the problem lies in the third point of the triangle, fuel.

Lastly is fuel (the hardest one to check, and to fix).  If the engine fires but doesn't want to run, then it is almost certainly a fuel problem.  The fact that you can get it running briefly by spraying tonnes of MAF sensor cleaner (essentially pure hydrocarbons) in the intake, much like Start Ya *****, makes me think that the engine isn't getting enough fuel.  Pull out the back seat and see if you can hear the fuel pump priming when you first turn the ignition key to ON.  Whilst you're there, remove the fuel pump (this might need the tank dropped on the AE9x, can't remember) and see if the filter sock on the end is clogged.  Test the fuel pressure at the fuel rail.  Get the injectors cleaned.  Replace the fuel filter (in the engine bay).

Your biggest problem is that it is intermittent, and thus you can't tell straight away if the component you replaced/cleaned etc has actually fixed the problem until the problem goes away permanently.

11 hours ago, AndGrr said:

It does have both a MAP and a MAF sensor. 

It doesn't, you're probably confusing the intake air-temp sensor (fitted to the airbox) with a MAF sensor (since most MAF sensors have the IAT built in to it)

12 hours ago, Paddy1 said:

Remove maf sensor and spray with electrical contact cleaner (do not use non flammable one in eats certain plastics) you can buy maf sensor cleaner although this does exactly the same job half the price and still reside free….failing that if you require new sensor I use auto parts online or rolan 👍

SXV10 5SFE doesn't have a MAF sensor, just MAP.

I used to run 16" wheels on my 102 (followed by 17"), but switched to 15s for ride quality, looks and for tyre costs.  16 and 17" tyres in the right sizes to suit the Corolla are annoyingly expensive especially compared to 15s

If the screen fits the standard 2DIN format, you'll just need side wings like the Aerpro ATB2.

https://aerpro.com/atb2 

EDIT: just saw that this was for an Aurion Sportivo and not a Corolla Sportivo, in which case you'll need a full fascia kit like FP998218

https://aerpro.com/vehicles/toyota/toyota-aurion-2006-2011#-

Yet another victim of the on-going semiconductor chip shortage

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-10-27/latest-news-toyota-smart-car-key-jerry-lee-lewis-alive/101584722

No idea on 2) but for 1) try THIS.  It appears to be for the US market but describes exactly what you're after, so hopefully the settings/menus are the same

5 hours ago, oldpom said:

Hi All

 

Just in process of purchasing a 1997 Celica ST204 SX Auto 2.2 and getting a bit confused when looking for parts. I need to but a radiator and front rotors but when going online to look, the compatible vehicles always comes up with "GT" after the ST204 and I have no idea if they are the same or, if the ST204 is classed as GT here in OZ, any help advice appreciated

The catalogues are probably pulling from the US market, where the 5SFE-powered ST204 was badged as GT (the lower-spec ST which we didn't get was the 7AFE-powered AT200).  Should be pretty similar to our SX/ZR models (which are both 5SFE ST204s) but do be aware that things like brakes etc can vary from market to market even for nominally the same "spec"

4 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

The brakes are engaged mechanically via hydraulic fluid pressure, so the instance of it just braking on its own is rather peculiar. 

Whilst the brake application is still mechanical/hydraulic, the actuation can be via the ABS pump (either as part of the ABS of for stability/traction control) which is electrically controlled, hence the possibility of an unintended brake application without touching the pedal (and with fully functioning calipers).

Amazing what a difference even just body-coloured door handles can make. Also replaced the front-left (passenger side) window belt moulding which was starting to peel quite bad.

Body-coloured rub strips are sitting here waiting to go on as soon as I can get a heat gun/hair-dryer and some goo-gone for the old weatherstripping adhesive.

And once again the wagon steals the good bits intended for the 102...swapped over the 101/111 Superstrut twin-piston brake conversion, figured I might as well make use of the pads and stop the seals drying out whilst the 102 stays off the road.

Rego papers don't usually go in to detail about model/trim etc (plus sometimes they can be a bit wrong).  As long as the VIN/engine number, number-plate and relevant details for road tax/insurance purposes (mass, number of doors, type of vehicle etc) are correct, that's all that really matters.

And technically a Vienta is still a Camry anyway, it was just the badge put on the top-spec V6 models (the XV10s were badged as Camry Vientas too) - just like how a Calais is still a Commodore but it doesn't wear the badge.

203 ft-lbs is ~275Nm, which is pretty normal for strut-to-knuckle bolts on Toyotas.  When you say "stripped", do you mean the actual thread on the bolt/nut or did the head of the nut get rounded off?

Also, what was the condition of the thread before you tried to tighten it up?  Suspension bolts cope some of the worst conditions of any fastener in the car.

On 1/26/2023 at 8:44 AM, adamVienta said:

 However it would seem the Australian built cars had heavier duty steering parts and so each time I try to obtain the parts they are wrong.

May not be a case of "heavier duty", but Australian-built cars needed to have a minimum percentage of Australian-sourced parts in order to qualify for government subsidies.  Hence, a lot of the mid-90s Toyotas would use steering/brakes/transmission parts etc from TRW or the like (which had a presence here to support Holden/Ford/Mitsubishi/Toyota) rather than Aisin/Denso Japan.  Unfortunately it also meant that unique-to-Australia part numbers and VINs often don't show up in worldwide catalogues.

If the thread issue is anything like my AE102 Corolla, the TRW rack has M16x1.5mm threads on the tie rods (both ends) whereas the (probably) Aisin Japan one has M14x1.5mm.  At worst, you can use these thread sizes and the length dimensions you know are right to sort through locally available catalogues and hopefully find something that matches.

Remember also that a Yaris built in France could be on a dealer forecourt in the UK less than a day after it leaves the factory, whereas here you need to account for at least a month for sea-freight.

21 hours ago, YuriB said:

This week the news from the UK is that two-tone colour scheme has been discontinued in the UK (from Dec 2022+) and customers are getting single-colour scheme.  The reason given is that 2-tone colour scheme requires significant additional work at the Yaris factory which the factory cannot afford due to a very high waiting list.  This makes 2-note colour scheme un-economical for Toyota to produce.

Is the same likely to happen to Yaris hatchback model in Australia?

 

The Euro-market Yaris is manufactured in France and the Czech Republic, waiting list issues there will unlikely affect Aus-market deliveries from Japan.

With jobs as important and complicated as clutch changes, I say that if you don't know what to do or how difficult it is, it's out of your skill range and should be better left to professionals (unless you're 100% willing to learn and can afford to have the car off the road for a significant amount of time if you encounter problems or don't have correct tools etc).

As for the RPM, 3000+rpm @ 100km/h is perfectly normal for a 7AFE/C52 combination

9 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

There is no excuse really for someone to think that passing hot engine oil through a rubber hose would be a good idea right ?

There has to be a rubber hose somewhere in the line to accommodate engine movement (same goes for clutch lines etc, and even exhaust pipes in transverse engines need to have a flex joint of some sort to prevent the flanges from cracking), plenty of oil coolers over the years have used flexible rubber.  The key thing is whether or not THAT section had to be rubber (and whether the chosen rubber was sufficient or not)

That Whirlpool post is from 2011.  Regulations change.

14 hours ago, AlexK8 said:

Mate, it is indeed, thank you! I can now see it's detachable. Must have been used for dynamic parking guide lines on the stock stereo reverse cam.

Can also be part of the stability control system