Hiro
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Posts posted by Hiro
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5 hours ago, Sick Puppy said:
I forgot all about this! In the end, I asked my Mechanic, he said no probs, bring it in. So I did, and I now have a working tow bar, which we've even used! He pretty much had to gut the rear of the car to do it, but... [shrug]
Having just fitted a towbar to my wagon I can assure you you don't have to remove anything in the rear of the car to fit it .....
Wiring it, on the other hand, does require the disassembly of pretty much all of the trim below the windows and behind the rear seats (as there isn't a dedicated trailer piggyback plug in the wagons unlike the sedans)
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On 3/9/2022 at 8:42 PM, ZZT86 said:
Nulon 5W30 Full Synth SN/GF5 6L $39.99 as of tomorrow @ Supercheap 😀
Hmmm, been thinking it's probably time for the first oil change on the wagon, need to do the valve cover gasket too so would make sense to do it all at once
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Without commenting on the quality or performance of whatever oil Coles rebrands, 15W40 is significantly thicker than what is recommended for the 2GRFE in the Aurion. Online lube guides etc call for either 5W30 or 10W30.
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The nylon bushes around the shifter may well be self-lubricating, but otherwise a small blob of white lithium or silicone paste should be fine (as they are plastic/rubber-safe), work it around to get it distributed and then clean off any excess (so it doesn't attract dirt/dust/crumbs)
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ZRE152 steering wheel now fitted, SWCs aren't hooked up until I can get a new clock spring (going to switch to black fascia too, silver doesn't suit the Ascent interior) but already feels tonnes better than the stock vinyl noodle-ring.
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Short version, towbar now fits - just have to rip the interior trim out of the boot to see if there's any pre-wired plugs of whether we'll have to wire it in from scratch
Long version - measured the mounting points on the car with stringlines and plumbs, sent dimensions to manufacturer who confirmed that their entire _batch_ was out (must have been an issue with the jig if that's the case), sent out a new towbar adjusted to the exact dimension of what I had (just in case) and arranged for Toll to pick the other one up (so at least I didn't have to schlep to the post office). One of the tow hook bolt holes was on the verge of stripping out however (not uncommon by the sounds of it) so had to chase it out with a thread tap, of course it had to be the one with the tightest clearance and worst access (muffler side, closest to bumper, and with a useless plastic tab on the bumper getting in the way).
Next up is chasing down a facelift ZRE152 steering wheel so I can have SWC for the headunit (although Android Auto is now broken due to my new phone, also seems to be a common problem with S22s). Also picked up a full set of power windows/switches and door trims, at some stage I'll have to pull the interior apart and see how much is also pre-wired for them.
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"Lift" is an enthusiast term referring to the secondary high-valvelift camshaft profile (like Honda's VTEC) that the 2ZZGE has, not everyone will recognise the word. If something mentions a clogged lift filter, it is referring to the filter screens on the VVT and VVL oil control solenoids which attach to the head. That should be more than enough information for Toyota, and most mechanics that deal with modern engines should also at least understand what those components are (even if they don't know _where_ they are)
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13 hours ago, campbeam said:
I could not see the pin hole leak in that rubber section. So it is amazing how much oil flows out under pressure from just a pin hole leak.
*sparkle sparkle
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Are you trying to remove the headlight assembly or the indicator assembly? The indicator housing (where the parkers are on the US models too it seems) only has one screw on the top and then it just pops out (there might be a clip/pin at the bottom that needs a bit of force to unclip, this is the case on my AE102 which has a similar arrangement). The headlight assembly has to come out second (not that you'd need to take it out to change an indicator bulb) as there is a nut at the bottom/side in behind the indicator housing as well as the two bolts on top
EDIT: hang on, looks like the last of the MCX10s had that single-piece headlight housing which I don't think the US ever got, in which case there looks to be two screws on the bottom as well as two at the top (one at the inner bottom "tip" next to the grille, one on the outer bottom "side" behind the bumper, which means you may need to remove the bumper (sounds like a pain but is common on a lot of newer cars
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The wire running from the brake pedal to the selector will probably be for the shift interlock, which stops you from being able to move the transmission out of PARK without pressing the brake pedal (obviously not needed on an auto).
I'm almost certain that your problem will lie with the wires that have been cut up above where the clutch pedal used to live (or the plugs that have been taped over), not with the brake pedal (as pressing the brake on a manual cuts cruise-control off too, so that shouldn't have changed). Unfortunately I don't have a wiring diagram to confirm.
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52 minutes ago, Tony Prodigy said:
I don't know how Big Corporations allow these fraudsters get away with blatantly copying and selling their products ?? Aren't they able to do anything ?
Part of the problem is that China often doesn't really recognise international copyright (it's a lot more complicated than that however), and in the case of outright fakes/dupes it can be extremely difficult to even determine who the infringing party is, let alone prosecute them.
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Yep, ground wire for the head, the ring terminal goes on the rear-most bolt of the power steering reservoir bracket (which would make sense, since you said the steering gear has been replaced)
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I assume you mean the wire/ring-terminal just to the right of the washer bottle? Most likely a ground, when my wagon re-appears this weekend I'll confirm
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3 hours ago, prron said:
It beeps when you get in the car. Beeps when you get out of the car. It beeps when the lights are on. It beeps LOUDLY for the late seat belt. It beeps when a door is a jar, It beeps for all kinds of crap. I would not recommend this crappy car to anyone. Toyota should be ashamed of themselves.
Is this your first new car in a long time? Countless other new cars have warning beeps for just about every function you have listed
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2 hours ago, Steve0 said:
Thanks Ian. I can confirm that the car was indeed a manual before it was declared a repairable write-off. I'm seeing an auto electrician tomorrow to have some safety lights added to the car. Do you think it is worth having him tackle this job? If he needs to remove the clutch switch, what is involved with the "bridging" process? I want to try to point him on the right track if I can. Your help is greatly appreciated.
It depends on what remaining electronics from the manual are in the car, and how the wiring works. If the clutch switch is still present, then you need to work out what happens electrically when the switch is activated (which the clutch pedal would do when you aren't pressing on it) - it'll either be a normally-open switch (ie it gets "closed" when activated, allowing electricity to flow, in which case you need to "short" the two terminals together (essentially bypassing the switch entirely); or a normally-closed switch (the default state is closed and it gets held open by the pedal until you press it, this is how brake pedal switches work to turn your brake lights on. Without the pedal there the switch is closed all the time and the cruise system is seeing a constant 'cancel' signal - in this case you need to unplug the switch (if it's there) and leave the body plug in place with nothing connected. Bear in mind that manual cars probably used the clutch switch as a neutral start too (the follow-up generation ZRE182 does) where you have to press the clutch to be able to start the car, but if you have an auto ECU it might not be looking for that signal.
If the switch has been removed, there will most likely be an un-used plug above the left side of the driver's footwell.
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20 hours ago, bob007 said:
Only a fool would drive without insurance.
I've always had comprehensive cover, even on my old Corolla for 18 years because if some retard who isn't insured hit me...I loose. 
What I find very strange, only Green Slips are compulsory in Australia...you don't have to insure your car...what a bloody joke.
I don't find the fact that only CTP/Greenslips are compulsory to be strange, there should never be a legal requirement for you to take out personal insurance on your own belongings if you don't want to. It's a personal choice, and affects no-one else. Third Party insurance is a different matter (CTP is part of that, but there is also Third Party Property). I agree that anyone who drives without at least Third Party Property insurance is a bloody idiot, but for some people (and for some items) the cost of insurance over the life of the product outweighs what they believe to be a very tiny likelihood of having to ever claim on it (almost all insurance is like that). TPP won't cover replacement of your own vehicle but at least it covers your personal liability in an accident, and if you drive a ****box then Comprehensive often isn't worth the hassle, even if the premiums are tiny the excess on any at-fault claim will be a substantial portion of the value of the car, not to mention the future effect on no-claim bonuses etc.
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If it was originally a manual then there would have been a clutch switch that would disengage the cruise if you tried to change gear with it activated (otherwise the engine would free-rev). Quite likely this was never removed (or was removed and wasn't bridged properly).
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11 minutes ago, Chippps said:
Sorry for another question.
I've got this RTV sealant.
I'm a bit lost with what JB Weld to get there are so many haha
When most people say JB-Weld, they usually mean the original flagship product (a metal 2-part epoxy for repairing cracked castings etc) rather than the whole range that they branched out in to
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Can't hurt to whack some more RTV around that area, the PCV system should prevent too much pressure buildup in the cam cover so really it's just got to hold up to oil being splashed against it. If it's a big enough dint you might be able to get away with filling it in with some JBWeld or the like and scraping it smooth enough to seal against
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Might be a trick of the camera (due to the oil) but it looks like the head has been dinged at that corner (probably by someone trying to pry a stuck cam cover off and damaged the sealing surface)
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1 hour ago, ZZT86 said:
Not much gets done to the car until you hit about 90K kms from memory like spark plugs (bitch to swap out) and the fuel filter (easy to do). Definitely suss out whats being quoted & go elsewhere.
54mo is most likely the 90k service (that's 20k a year, or 10k per 6mo which is a pretty standard schedule) so spark plugs on the FA20 boxer could well be the big ticket item.
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2 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:
Hydrogen Peroxide isn't cheap and when you front up to the Chemist asking for some, be prepared for the funny look and the Police style interrogation. Apparently you can make weapons of mass destruction with the stuff, so be careful what you say lol !!
True story. It blissfully happened to me once. I purchased a small bottle with the intention to use it for sanitising a large glass jar so I could grow sprouts. Simple as that and yet I was I treated like I was about to embark on a criminal enterprise.
You're probably buying the strong stuff (and chemists will always look at you funny whenever you go for the strongest version of something). You can get normal 3% peroxide from supermarkets no questions asked (for most applications if you've got the strong stuff you have to heavily dilute it anyway)
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Buy a set of aftermarket covers and Scotchgard them? Obviously will need to be airbag-compliant for the front seats at least, but probably the cheapest/easiest option.
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Next step was trying to sort out the brake shudder - previous owner indicated that they had been told by the mechanic at last service/rego that the rears were almost done, so I figured that would be the first place to start. Ordered new rotors and pads (didn't bother with the parking brake shoes), arrived quick-smart so got to work swapping them in....Man I forgot how much I hated drum brakes. Even though the rear brakes are disc, the parking brake works via shoes against the inside of the rotor hat, which means you have to back them off when replacing the rotors otherwise they can catch on a lip. Well, it turns out that I mustn't have backed them off enough (or they stuck to the inside of the rotor), because when I pulled off the right rear (had to use the jacking screws because it wasn't coming by hand) the shoes had grabbed on to something and managed to _bend_ the entire backing plate (despite the only connection between the shoes and the plate being two nail-thin pins). This meant that the new rotor (or the old one, for that matter) could not fit back over the shoes regardless of how much they were backed off, so I was up Schitt's Creek without a rowing instrument.
Cue a fit of inspiration to literally rip the entire parking brake hardware off the backing plate, smash the thing back as close to flat as possible with a sledgehammer, tie up the cable to the back of the hub and then make a break-of-dawn run down to Sydney the next day (with no working handbrake) to pick up a new wheel hub....which just turned out to be an entire rear torsion beam assembly, because it required less disassembly (and also gave a few spares). Good thing I bought a wagon, and in a moment of poetic irony the first part the parts hauler hauled was literally it's own rear end (like a Babuskha doll)
All goes back together without a hitch, then the new rotors and pads finally fit and my brake shudder problems were solved.
Except they weren't. So I figured that it must be the fronts, instead (not like there was any other option, apart from the uncomfortable possibility of excessive runout). Didn't really have time before Christmas to order new rotors (at least pads I could get off the shelf), but fortunately I had a spare set of DBA T2s lying around that were slated to go on the ZZE102 (since the SuperStrut brakes run essentially the same 275mm front rotors). Bit of overkill for a daily wagon hack, but time was more important and I wasn't driving up to Coffs to go camping over NYE with shuddering brakes. At least these went in without a hitch (apart from having to take a few hours break whilst I tracked down which mate I had lent my caliper piston resetting tool to). And lo and behold, the shudder was cured.
So speaking of camping, this was one of the reasons why we bought a wagon in the first place (other than being a parts hauler). Still tonnes of room (pretty much from window line up to the roof)
Anyway, after we got back in the new year, I set about getting stuck in to the rest of the planned initial mods. First up, towbar. Should be simple, new towbar and straight car (no accident history) should mean everything lines up nice and neat, right?Right?Guess again. Looks like Blind Freddy got a job at TAG some time last year, and welded together my towbar as straight as Mardi Gras
So now I've got to go through the hassle of an eBay return of a metre-long chunk of steel, which is always fun. Still, at least the day wasn't a total write-off, as I acquired a set of 16" wheels to progress one step further along the path to Dad-bod Sportivo.
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I've always had comprehensive cover, even on my old Corolla for 18 years because if some retard who isn't insured hit me...I loose. 
Remote or not to Remote.
in Avalon Club
Posted
Yeah remote boot release just means you don't have to be standing physically at the lock to open it. My '98 Corolla lists "remote boot release" but it is 100% just a lever in the cabin even on the highest spec.