Hiro

So in my continuing trend of spending money on the wife's car and procrastinating in actually getting my project finished (hell, it's barely out of the "started" phase really)...

K&N Typhoon SRI, mostly for noise (and it is noticeable when you load it up but not much just at idle or crawling around the suburbs) but there will be a slight performance increase, and unlike most SRIs at least it actually has a heatshield to try and minimise the amount of hot air drawn in (it still uses the snorkel feed that ran to the standard airbox)

Meant to be 100% bolt-in but due to the 11th-gen Corollas having a vacuum surge tank on the end of the head which the 10th-gen didn't (kit was designed for the 10th gen, but a lot of the drivetrain/chassis is the same between them) it meant I couldn't use the brace from the head to the underside of the intake pipe, so it's currently just resting against the seal on the heatshield - should be fine though.

8 minutes ago, MCMLXVI said:

So, as a follow up. I spoke to our spare parts head honcho whose response was: "Sure. Just give us the part numbers and be prepared to wait 4 to 6 weeks."

Champion.

The moral is:

The plebs know what's going on. The managers don't.

Correct, in most cases.  Parts departments deal with this kind of stuff on a daily basis, dealer principals/managers/owners are often just business-people who only see numbers and bottom-lines (every so often you come across owners/principals who are also enthusiasts and their dealerships are often a haven for the aftermarket/JDM crowd - Castle Hill Toyota in Sydney is a prime example, they have always been one of the best places in NSW when dealing with imports)

On 11/1/2021 at 10:24 PM, Aurion_sa said:

Hello mates, 

so I have a Toyota Aurion 2011 and I’m thinking about swapping the transmission ecu to the later Toyota Aurion 2016. 
Have any one done it before ?!

And what are pros and cons ?! 

do they have the same transmission?
 

 

 

If you're uncertain of the pros and cons, why are you wanting to do the swap in the first place?  Unless something is seriously wrong with your current TCU, it's a big risk for quite likely no gain whatsoever.

Crank but doesn't fire will be one of three things

1) No spark (or spark at the wrong time) - check spark plugs, leads, coil, distributor cap, as well as timing.

2) No fuel - check fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, injectors

3) No air - Highly unlikely to be this, as even if the whole intake was gummed up you'd still expect _some_ air to leak past the throttle.  Still, clean out the TB and idle bypasses just in case.

Which dealership do you work at (not shaming/pointing fingers or anything)?  I know of a couple that seem to have a better appreciation of JDM market stuff (both for new and for classics)

That's a damn good deal for a seat of normal and deep impact sockets, I'd be all over that like a cheap suit if I didn't already have the equivalent ToolPro sets

3 hours ago, campbeam said:

You did not mention what combination of engine and transmission that your vehicle has been fitted with. 

2.0L Dynamic Force direct injection petrol engine with 6 speed manual or auto CVT, or 1.8L Toyota Hybrid System and auto CVT

Being a ZR it'll have to be CVT, the only manual 12th gen was the base Ascent Sport.  Although the petrol and hybrid CVTs are different from each other

Paul,

Whilst you have every right to feel frustrated at your situation, and it can be useful to other owners or potential buyers that problems do exist, this is not the place to be directing a complaint.  This is an owner's club, not an official Toyota group.  There are no official representatives from Toyota here.

Also, please refrain from making posts in all-capitals.  It is poor internet-etiquette, and makes it look like you're shouting constantly.

Take a pad out and look at the shape of it - there is usually a fairly significant difference in outline between the Sumitomo/Akebono/Aisin pads.  Websites like Bendix and DBA have pad outlines on their parts catalogues that you can easily compare to.

Also, do you have an AE112 or ZZE122?  I think the very early ZZEs were built as 2001 models as they were released at the end of the year.  The ZZE throws an extra spanner in the works as there was a mix of Japanese-built and South African-built models sold here (depending on trim etc) and they have lots of little differences that aren't always immediately obvious - pretty sure the brakes is one of them

Your profile says "Other Non-Australia", whereabouts in the world are you?  Market availability varies around the world (the current generation Corolla DOES have a wagon/estate in Japan and Europe for instance), it'll be hard for people here to recommend options without knowing what else is sold locally.

Which bolts?  The ones that attach the mount to the body?  The ones that attach the mount to the transmission?  The ones that join the two halves of the mounts together?

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

A bit unusual having Toyota sticker the rocker cover for each tranny designation. Does this also mean that the rocker covers differ for both manual and auto transmission cars ?

Probably just a sticker added to the complete engine/transmission assembly before it gets installed in to a chassis.  Nothing different about the engine itself, let alone the valve cover.

Just like how there won't be a different bonnet for every variation of the emissions system sticker

As I mentioned on Toyotanation, the 4A/T means 4-speed automatic transmission.

And a similar sticker on an AE82 showing what a manual one would look like

4 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

It is really dumb of Toyota not making this standard by 2006 standards. It appears that they only started to include a cabin filter at the end of the 2006 production year as some have reported and those without one have actually cut the rectangle access blanking plate out and then purchased the door from Toyota or from a wrecker. There is provision to slide a filter in there, you just need to open it.

Have a read of these related threads I found.

https://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=907&start=40

 

Utes/commercials (especially not the loaded top-spec models) tend to be the last models to get the small creature-comforts that you come to expect in passenger cars.  Just look at how ancient the interior of the 70-series Land Cruiser is, it's like a time-warp back to 1999.  Hell, even the current model is advertised on the Toyota website as having dual airbags and a collapsible steering column as if they've just been invented.

Sounds like you don't have a cabin filter then.

11 minutes ago, KAA said:

Hi Muhammad, I can't assist with the rattle/grind sound but I am sure others will help with that as many good minds on here. The fuel consumption really has a lot to do with your driving style, tyres also pay a big part and most of all maintenance of the beast under the bonnet and transmission. I personally wont use full unleaded at any time unless really stuck with no choice, I use E91 and if the price is right E95, lately most petrol stations are not budging on price wars so all are expensive so E91 it is, when I check the economy read out my normal usage for short (COVID restricted) trips I am getting around 9.7L/100 this is pretty much the normal for me, as always there are days I just want to enjoy the power and the who cares about fuel consumption part of me kicks in and like Ashley said enjoy that power feeling. We have debates before about using the E98 verses E95 E91 so there will be some threads I am sure in the Aurion section to read, but if I recall most thought it really a waste of money for what you gain, I am sure when we can do some long drives a few more comments will be coming regarding fuel economy

Keep Safe

KAA

E91/E95/E98 implies 91%/95%/98% ethanol by the way (like E85), basically straight alcohol...

2 hours ago, Squalled said:

In terms of intakes, a mate of mine makes them in his spare time down Vic and I'm sure he's done a few Celica's in his time.

 

Wonder if he'd feel like knocking up one for the ZZE102...

Word of warning for intakes though, the stock MAF/ECU combination is very sensitive to pipe diameter and shape.  Going larger than stock or adding bends in the wrong places will through CEL codes and can cause poor/rough running.

MWR is a good source (albeit not cheap) for all things 2ZZ, at least engine-bay related.

As for the exhaust, for a catback you'd probably be best off just going to your local exhaust shop and getting something made up with a Lukey or Magnaflow resonator + muffler, no point shelling out hundreds in shipping for a JDM special from the land of the rising sun when the gains will be the same.

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

We're also locked in a 5klm radius and it's very frustrating not being able to get to my Parents place to be able to work on my other vehicles and service the ride on mowers for Dad.

I'm not in Greater Sydney so the 5km radius thing only ever applied if I was leaving my LGA.  Same situation with my parents though, my mum lives home alone (my dad died back in 2018) and for the last ~12 months she's been undertaking ~150k worth of landscaping, I was going around weekly/fortnightly taking progress photos but haven't been able to get there since the last lockdown started (she lives in another LGA even though she's only ~30 minutes away)

3 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Wow, now that is one unusual engine. I've never seen one before.

The 2TZ is unique to the Estima/Tarago/Previa but the design philosophy is used a lot on buses etc to allow for a mid- or rear-mounted engine whilst still keeping floor levels low.

More weirdly for Toyota, the 2TZ is also the _only_ TZ engine, there is no 1TZ (I think it's the only Toyota engine series to start at 2)

17 minutes ago, TommyM said:

How are you holding up ?, working from home that is. I'm over doing this stupid click & collect bs for the most puney part. Atleast what we're doing in vic. An 04' Mazda 2 is hardly a touring car lol. The IS200's aren't a bad car, GS460 will be fun !

 

I started going back in to the office 2-3 days a week back in March (just needed a change of scenery after we hit 12 months of full WFH) but that obviously ended at the start of the most recent NSW lockdown, although despite that I did spend 3 solid weeks during lockdown last month on-site as supporting the dealer workshop was deemed critical business.  90% of my job is all computer-based so WFH isn't too bad (work-supplied laptop is just as powerful as my office desktop, the speed of the network through the VPN is the big issue), it's just the 10% that requires customer-facing contact and occasional travel that has really changed.

On the social side of things I'm not too fussed about deliveries/click-and-collect etc, already had heaps of stuff home-delivered before lockdown anyway.  Once the fully-vax'ed social bubbles open back up after Freedom Day and we can leave our LGAs things will basically be back to normal for me.

Doesn't help when the 2TZ essentially lays on its side, so what we're looking at is actually the _side_ of the block

As far as I can tell it's the Oil Pressure switch, you can see the light-grey switch in the bottom-right of this picture on the oil pump/filter/SAD housing.

On 9/19/2021 at 3:12 PM, TommyM said:

Come easing of these constant erratic lockdowns in Australia. When we're allowed to travel around the state, where do you all plan on going ?.

 

And what car will you be taking ?

Considering I've been working flat-out for the last 18 months (WFH has made things run slower but no reduction in demand, but I would definitely prefer it to the unfortunate scenario that has befallen many others), very little progress has happened on the ZZE102 conversion which means any post-Freedom Day trips will either be in my loaner '04 Mazda2 (most practical daily econobox ever made but not designed for road trips or fun) or the wife's '18 ZRE182 (some modicum of fun at least).

Still probably 6-9 months away from getting the replacement daily for me, which I have stipulated must be a fun drive (at this stage most likely an IS200, unless my white whale GS460 appears so I can finally put the V8 ownership notch on my wall)

100% the clutch reservoir, some manual cars run separate reservoirs for the brake and clutch but some others combine them (obviously with separate master cylinders though) so even if you've worked on manual cars before it might look different

On 9/21/2021 at 3:59 PM, nzzr6 said:

I'm pretty sure my old 2003 camry had no error built in whatsoever. What you saw on speedo was what you got

To an extent that's just luck of the draw.  There's no guarantee that _all_ 2003 Camrys have perfectly accurate speedos, but considering under the laws of the day an error of 0 was perfectly acceptable it would have happened a lot more often than you think purely on average

On 9/21/2021 at 4:04 PM, Tony Prodigy said:

I'm not sure how far back this speedo error thing goes, but I would assume a 2003 car would have it. My M3 has a rather bigger than usual error I suspect, but I will have to confirm this next time I get to drive it against my google maps. It's puzzling for sure.

Speedo errors have existed as long as speedos have.  ADR18/00 (the first instrumentation ADR) was introduced in 1988.  ADR18/03 (the third revision of ADR18, which was introduced in 2006) was the changeover between the old (+/-10%) margin and the new (+10% + 4km/h) margin.