Hiro

Got a mate who drives an LDV people-mover for work, hasn't hit first service yet and the windscreen already leaks.

5 hours ago, Squalled said:

Ah yes the infamous lift bolts. I've got a set in case I need to replace them but I've not had any issues with mine to be honest. I think by the time the Sportivo, let alone the face lift model was released they'd addressed the fast wearing issues from the Celica.

There were a couple of revisions, pretty sure the last of them was after the Sportivo went on sale but the last change or two were pretty minor.

3 hours ago, Squalled said:

The most common things to look for are.

 

Don't forget lift bolts

On 11/27/2021 at 2:52 PM, lanz bhing said:

That is the air-injection/smog pump pipe, basically on the more stringent emissions packages fresh air was injected directly in to the exhaust stream to assist with complete combustion/oxidation of un-burnt hydrocarbons caused by running rich.  The smog pump wasn't fitted on Australian-delivered 2ZZs (either Celica or Sportivo), so if you get a set of headers from overseas with the feed pipe you need to remove it and block the ports.

Easiest way to be sure is to just pop the blown bulb out and take it with you in to the store - online catalogues are sometimes wrong or show different parts from different markets etc

In saying that though, there was another post on here recently about another VX 150-series diesel struggling to meet the rated consumption, so could well be a common thing (or that the testing regime isn't 100% reflective on real-world driving, not the first time that has happened)

What type of trips are you doing?  Fully loaded?  Roof racks/boxes etc? Have you changed tyres to something more offroad-y?  Big 4WDs are often sensitive to even slight variations in cruising speed as the aerodynamic drag is much more significant than a passenger car, so you might be able to achieve 8L/100k @90-100km/h but as soon as you accelerate up to 110k it plummets to 12L/100k for instance.  Driving style too will also make a big difference

Also, how are you calculating your economy?

Max 5 years old but only 8-10k is a tall order in the current used car market, except maybe for something like an MG or other bargain-basement runaround (possibly Hyundai or an un-loved Nissan or Holden).  In Toyota-land you _might_ just be able to scrape in a 2015/2016 high-k Yaris base model, but depending on how strict you are with the other requirements it's a no-go anyway (still got handbrake lever).

For the reversing camera just get one installed aftermarket, since you're going to be looking at base models they're often fairly bare-bones in the equipment stakes (and if you're doing lots of road trips you'd most likely want a new headunit with Bluetooth etc).

Is the new diff a different ratio to the old one?  Not sure if the Hilux runs a VSS off the transmission as well as the ABS wheel sensors (on a lot of cars with ABS they use the wheel sensors for VSS instead) but if the diff ratio has changed then the ECU might be seeing a constant discrepancy between expected and actual speeds, thus the error

Also, did you just change the diff itself or the whole rear axle?  Maybe something has happened with the tone rings (the toothed wheels that the ABS sensors use to measure speed)

So in my continuing trend of spending money on the wife's car and procrastinating in actually getting my project finished (hell, it's barely out of the "started" phase really)...

K&N Typhoon SRI, mostly for noise (and it is noticeable when you load it up but not much just at idle or crawling around the suburbs) but there will be a slight performance increase, and unlike most SRIs at least it actually has a heatshield to try and minimise the amount of hot air drawn in (it still uses the snorkel feed that ran to the standard airbox)

Meant to be 100% bolt-in but due to the 11th-gen Corollas having a vacuum surge tank on the end of the head which the 10th-gen didn't (kit was designed for the 10th gen, but a lot of the drivetrain/chassis is the same between them) it meant I couldn't use the brace from the head to the underside of the intake pipe, so it's currently just resting against the seal on the heatshield - should be fine though.

8 minutes ago, MCMLXVI said:

So, as a follow up. I spoke to our spare parts head honcho whose response was: "Sure. Just give us the part numbers and be prepared to wait 4 to 6 weeks."

Champion.

The moral is:

The plebs know what's going on. The managers don't.

Correct, in most cases.  Parts departments deal with this kind of stuff on a daily basis, dealer principals/managers/owners are often just business-people who only see numbers and bottom-lines (every so often you come across owners/principals who are also enthusiasts and their dealerships are often a haven for the aftermarket/JDM crowd - Castle Hill Toyota in Sydney is a prime example, they have always been one of the best places in NSW when dealing with imports)

On 11/1/2021 at 10:24 PM, Aurion_sa said:

Hello mates, 

so I have a Toyota Aurion 2011 and I’m thinking about swapping the transmission ecu to the later Toyota Aurion 2016. 
Have any one done it before ?!

And what are pros and cons ?! 

do they have the same transmission?
 

 

 

If you're uncertain of the pros and cons, why are you wanting to do the swap in the first place?  Unless something is seriously wrong with your current TCU, it's a big risk for quite likely no gain whatsoever.

Crank but doesn't fire will be one of three things

1) No spark (or spark at the wrong time) - check spark plugs, leads, coil, distributor cap, as well as timing.

2) No fuel - check fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, injectors

3) No air - Highly unlikely to be this, as even if the whole intake was gummed up you'd still expect _some_ air to leak past the throttle.  Still, clean out the TB and idle bypasses just in case.

Which dealership do you work at (not shaming/pointing fingers or anything)?  I know of a couple that seem to have a better appreciation of JDM market stuff (both for new and for classics)

That's a damn good deal for a seat of normal and deep impact sockets, I'd be all over that like a cheap suit if I didn't already have the equivalent ToolPro sets

3 hours ago, campbeam said:

You did not mention what combination of engine and transmission that your vehicle has been fitted with. 

2.0L Dynamic Force direct injection petrol engine with 6 speed manual or auto CVT, or 1.8L Toyota Hybrid System and auto CVT

Being a ZR it'll have to be CVT, the only manual 12th gen was the base Ascent Sport.  Although the petrol and hybrid CVTs are different from each other

Paul,

Whilst you have every right to feel frustrated at your situation, and it can be useful to other owners or potential buyers that problems do exist, this is not the place to be directing a complaint.  This is an owner's club, not an official Toyota group.  There are no official representatives from Toyota here.

Also, please refrain from making posts in all-capitals.  It is poor internet-etiquette, and makes it look like you're shouting constantly.

Take a pad out and look at the shape of it - there is usually a fairly significant difference in outline between the Sumitomo/Akebono/Aisin pads.  Websites like Bendix and DBA have pad outlines on their parts catalogues that you can easily compare to.

Also, do you have an AE112 or ZZE122?  I think the very early ZZEs were built as 2001 models as they were released at the end of the year.  The ZZE throws an extra spanner in the works as there was a mix of Japanese-built and South African-built models sold here (depending on trim etc) and they have lots of little differences that aren't always immediately obvious - pretty sure the brakes is one of them

Your profile says "Other Non-Australia", whereabouts in the world are you?  Market availability varies around the world (the current generation Corolla DOES have a wagon/estate in Japan and Europe for instance), it'll be hard for people here to recommend options without knowing what else is sold locally.

Which bolts?  The ones that attach the mount to the body?  The ones that attach the mount to the transmission?  The ones that join the two halves of the mounts together?

1 hour ago, Tony Prodigy said:

A bit unusual having Toyota sticker the rocker cover for each tranny designation. Does this also mean that the rocker covers differ for both manual and auto transmission cars ?

Probably just a sticker added to the complete engine/transmission assembly before it gets installed in to a chassis.  Nothing different about the engine itself, let alone the valve cover.

Just like how there won't be a different bonnet for every variation of the emissions system sticker

As I mentioned on Toyotanation, the 4A/T means 4-speed automatic transmission.

And a similar sticker on an AE82 showing what a manual one would look like

4 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

It is really dumb of Toyota not making this standard by 2006 standards. It appears that they only started to include a cabin filter at the end of the 2006 production year as some have reported and those without one have actually cut the rectangle access blanking plate out and then purchased the door from Toyota or from a wrecker. There is provision to slide a filter in there, you just need to open it.

Have a read of these related threads I found.

https://www.newhilux.net/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=907&start=40

 

Utes/commercials (especially not the loaded top-spec models) tend to be the last models to get the small creature-comforts that you come to expect in passenger cars.  Just look at how ancient the interior of the 70-series Land Cruiser is, it's like a time-warp back to 1999.  Hell, even the current model is advertised on the Toyota website as having dual airbags and a collapsible steering column as if they've just been invented.

Sounds like you don't have a cabin filter then.