Hiro

2 hours ago, Henstepper said:

I had a v6 commodore before this car and didnt go through fuel as quick. I know the aurion has a bigger engine

1 hour ago, Henstepper said:

It was the ecotec v6 3800

So the Aurion _doesn't_ have a bigger engine then...

It's pretty typical for headlights to actually be earthed through the combination switch, which is why the wires would be going back in to the cabin

5 hours ago, Bennyxx1 said:

I don't know there was 2 types just saw one on CarSales and it's overpriced I thought 

Carsales has 6 Aristos up currently, all S160 series and all 2JZGTEs, ranging from $18k to $29k.  Considering a non-turbo Lexus GS300 of the same year was $100k new with similar amounts of features, they're still reasonable value...

Also, why do you have two accounts?

13 hours ago, Bens101x said:

Been looking at the Aristo wow what a expensive car looking at its specs I can't see were the money is 

I have a mate who wants to buy one if anyone has owned one ect 

Please tell me about them

Are you you're talking about an S140 Aristo (the first generation) or the second generation S160 (which was sold here in non-turbo spec as the Lexus GS300)?  Either way, being an import it'll most likely be the twin-turbo 2JZGTE model (especially the S160, as the N/A one wouldn't be eligible) which would obviously justify some of the premium (also the used car market is stupid at the moment, almost everything is massively overpriced due to COVID and the semiconductor shortage so what was ~$10k two years ago is now $15-20k).

5/7 topic, much information, very detail, will read again.

Seriously, you need to work on your posting skills.

14 hours ago, Silly Goose said:

I already intend to put coilovers, new tyres and new rims on the car but besides that, is there anything else I can do to improve the handling?

The rims are really only for appearance but I was unable to find anything to do with strut bars or sway bars? Only heavy-duty sway bar links. Does it already have these parts as an OEM stock part?

No strut brace from factory, front- and rear-sway bars however but there don't seem to be many (if any) aftermarket upgrades for them.  Remember too that these do not have IRS so there is little benefit from a rear sway bar upgrade.  Also, be careful looking at coilovers as you need ones that are designed specifically for the torsion-beam rear end as some overseas models (in particular Japan and the US, where the vast majority of coilover designs will be for) and the ZWE186 hybrid have IRS which is completely different.

On 7/13/2021 at 8:47 PM, Silly Goose said:

Would there be a difference in the ZRE182R and the ZRE182?

The 'R' just means right-hand drive.

On 7/13/2021 at 8:47 PM, Silly Goose said:

I may have to contact Rattle Rattleson for more information for where he got it, how he got the exhaust and extra info so do you have any way to contact him? Is it just through DM here? May I DM you directly? And do you have any pictures of how it looks on the car, how it sounds and if you did anything more with it? This is my first possible breakthrough so thank you![/quote]

See the Members Ride link in my signature for photos, I don't have a video .  From memory he bought it from Garage 88 in Sydney but no idea if they can still get them.  To be honest, it's not worth what the probable retail value is brand new compared to just going to an exhaust shop and getting a Lukey or Magnaflow installed (and its main value apart from the badge is that it bolts on to a stock standard system).  I got it second-hand (obviously) so much more cost-effective.

On 7/13/2021 at 8:47 PM, Silly Goose said:

To my understanding though, the 2018 Ascent Sport Hatchback has 2 different designs when I look it up online. One looks like my 2017 one and the other looks like a newer design so I'm still quite confused

What you're seeing is the changeover from the 11th generation Corolla (ZRE182 hassis code, 2ZR-FE engine) to the 12th generation (MZEA12 chassis code, M20A-FKS engine), which happened mid-late 2018.  Completely different engine, completely different chassis, nothing will swap over.

It doesn't fit _in_ the stock airbox, it replaces it completely.

And it looks like this (not my car, just found it on Google)

3 hours ago, Silly Goose said:

Hi there,

I'm fairly new to the modding scene, however I was trying to find headers for the ZRE182R model, which uses the 2ZR-FE engine, and am genuinely struggling to find headers that specifically mention compatibility with the ZRE182R.

I was also interested in changing my exhaust and, once again, am quite stumped on my search for exhausts specific to the ZRE182R or anyone saying that they have tried so and so part and it works on their ZRE182R. There was a previous post nearly 7 years ago regarding E180 which I believe is close, if not the same, but due to it being a much older model, I'm looking for some help here. It can be found here and here.

The TRD axle-back exhaust formerly owned by Rattle Rattleson now lives on my wife's 2018 ZRE182 Ascent Sport hatch.  It bolts on 100% no problems, however the tip does sit a little lower than the stock tip so it looks a little out of place.  The sound improvement is more a quality vs quantity thing, it is barely louder than stock at idle and around town especially when cold but is more noticeable up top or if the exhaust has gotten nice and hot after a long spirited drive.

3 hours ago, Silly Goose said:

I also had a look online and found this axle-back exhaust for the 2017 Corolla XSE and was wondering if it would fit the same too.

I would assume that any exhaust for the American 11th-gen Corolla would not fit, for two reasons

1) The sedan (as are Australia-market sedans) are technically a different chassis to the hatch - E170 vs E180.  The pipe routing and muffler design is also different between E170 and E180, with the Aus-spec E180 having a cigar-shaped tubular rear muffler and the E170 (US and Aus) sedan having a conventional oval muffler.

2) Exhausts for the US-spec hatch (Scion/Corolla iM) are completely different as they ran an IRS setup compared to the Aus-spec torsion beam, so the pipe routing is completely different

US-spec sedan exhausts may fit Aus-spec sedans, but not the hatch.

On 7/4/2021 at 4:48 PM, Lew said:

Sorry mate 1005000kms

Are you sure there isn't one too many zeros there?  A million k in 5 years (because no-one drove anywhere last year) is 200,000k a year, 10 times what the average person probably does.

And if it is true, no offence but no-one in their right mind would buy a million-k car with no service history (especially not a late-model one).

20 minutes ago, joeallen said:

Also check out YT site called Just Rolled In. 

Every one of the videos Tony posted were from Just Rolled In...

Not only is the 3.0L a diesel, it's also a 4-cylinder 😛

3 hours ago, Steven barbaro said:

I meant 1500w , that's what is printed on the flip open cover , I'm not sure what that is in volts

Really depends on whether it is DC (battery voltage) or inverted AC.  If it is truly meant to be an emergency mains supply in Japan then it would have to be 100V inverted AC, which would then correspond to 15A (which is still a sizeable amount of current).  I think Toyota's hybrid batteries tend to be around 250V which would mean only 6A, but 250V DC will fry just about anything you would normally plug in to a DC source (normal cars are only 12V).

Japan uses the same NEMA 1 socket/plug as the USA does, 150V seems a bit high for Japan though (their domestic supply is 100-120V).

On 6/25/2021 at 6:55 AM, Dave F said:

You are right Hiro, it sits around there at 11.5L or 11.7L/100km. The lowest I have had it was about 9L/100km on open road on cruise control doing 120km. Obviously didn't last long as you get traffic eventually or bends and so on.  But our VX is diesel. Thank you for replying it puts my mind at ease a little.    

120km/h is probably killing your consumption.  Dropping down to 110 or 100 will make a big difference.  Any additions like bullbars, roof boxes, off-road tyres etc will also have an impact

18 hours ago, Bens101x said:

Isn't the Supra only 250 kilowatts and the Aurion has 200 but I'd sure like to see that race.

Stock TRD Aurion is 240kW.  There's no such thing as a stock JZA80 Supra, and even if there was there's almost no chance it's putting out the same power it did back in 2002 (and who knows what that stock figure even was, due to the figures being fudged as part of the Gentleman's Agreement).  But if we do go off the official numbers, then the VVTi 2JZ has ~50Nm more torque despite having less capacity and less max power (which means that the 206kW is likely to be _heavily_ underrated, more like 240-250kW), and 0-100 tests tend to show it pulling in the low-mid 5s range (some places even list high 4s), whereas the TRD Aurion was in the 6s.

Aurion is also ~100kg heavier than the Supra, FWD with no LSD.

10 hours ago, Dave F said:

Can ANYONE please tell me how to get more than 1200KM out of my 2016 VX Prado?  Because if you read the write up on the vehicle it actually said you should get a whopping 2000KM range out of your 150L tank. What a load of Bulls$&t. May be able to go anywhere but its fuel consumption is so bad. 

Methinks you've read the range of the diesel model (which @ 7L/100k can get 2100k out of 150L) rather than the petrol (which is only rated at 9.4L/100k on the highway)...

1200km out of ~150L (call it 140L just so you're not draining the tanks absolutely dry) is 11.7L/100km, which is bang on the average combined economy for the 1GR petrol model.

14 hours ago, charlizetivo said:

Ended up telling the guy over the phone that I spoke to Exedy Australia over the phone, and that the rep told me that the TYK-7334HD is designed to handle the 2zz engine whereas the TYK-6932HHD is meant for the 1zz. The clutch guy asked if I then wanted to order the TYK-7334HD instead, to which I replied with "yes please". Got there the following morning, left the car there for several hours and came back to collect it. Upon checking out, he quickly wanted to show me how the TYK-7334HD and the TYK-6932HHD clutches were EXACTLY the same. He said that the same specification number on the clutch disc or whatever matches the other clutch. I just pretty much said "yeah, ok" and left it at that. I think despite his claims I will continue to use the TYK-7334HD in the distant future. 

TYK6932 was the standard clutch for the older A-series powered Corollas (AE102, AE112 etc), and was probably the original clutch on the 1ZZ-powered ZZE122s as well.  The TYK7334 was the uprated clutch fitted to the 2ZZ-powered ZZE123, which consists of the same friction disc and throwout bearing but a higher-rated pressure plate.  Thus, it is quite possible that that TYK7334 _is_ the TYK6932HD, and thus the 7334HD also corresponds to the 6932HHD (as far as all the internal parts are concerned), but the "kits" are numbered differently because of the different applications (and maybe to stop people trying to cheap out and put a plain 6932 on a 2ZZ).  In short, standard 2ZZ clutch = heavy-duty 1ZZ clutch, heavy duty 2ZZ = heavy heavy duty 1ZZ.

Looking at Exedy's website now, they don't even list the 6932 for the ZZE122s any more, so I wouldn't be surprised if they're just letting it run obsolete (they do still list it for the 102/112 however)

The 1ZZ and 2ZZ clutches are interchangeable (flywheels are not), however I would still only run the 2ZZ clutch behind a 2ZZ (it could be considered an upgrade on a 1ZZ).  Bolt pattern/dowels/area are the same, however the 2ZZ clutch will have a higher clamping force (to suit the ~40% extra power).

Considered getting longer studs?

38 minutes ago, Alexandra said:

I’m looking at a late model hybrid. 
I rent and want to charge via my portable solar panel. Is this viable? 
Does anyone know wattage / volt needed to charge. 
Thanks for thoughtful and kind replies to me who knows very little. 
cheers, 

Alexandra

The Rav4 isn't a PHEV (plug-in hybrid) so it isn't designed to be recharged from an outside source (only via the transmission/generator).  Not saying it can't be done though

3 hours ago, bob007 said:

I wasn't talking about the top of the range $54,188 Edge, I'm talking mid range the average person would look at.  Anyway there's a huge price difference between a Corolla 2.0L and a GLX RAV4 2.0L for that extra 320kg. 

It is still in the range though.  Also, the M20A is by far and away the most sporty engine that any standard Corolla has ever had, so it isn't underpowered even when you slot it in to the bigger Rav4 (it also goes in to the Camry overseas too), and is more than sufficient for the soccer-moms and commuters who make up the majority of Rav4 owners.

Plenty of countries/markets around the world get by just fine with engine sizes and power levels that most of us would cringe at.

First time is always the hardest, you constantly doubt everything you're doing and usually make the wrong decisions when it comes to the best way to attack things, but it is all a learning process and you pick it up very quickly.

First time I did brake pads it took me probably an hour on the first caliper, but only 15 minutes on the second.  Now, I can do them in my sleep.

5 hours ago, bob007 said:

Why does the RAV4 Petrol which is 1660kg in weight have the same size Engine 2.0L as the Corolla that's 1340kg, a difference of 320kg.  

The Camry Petrol which is 1490kg has a 2.5L Engine and that's 170kg lighter than the RAV4, why doesn't the RAV4 Petrol have a 2.5L Engine ?

The RAV4 Petrol has to pull an extra 320kgs without people or luggage with the same size Engine as the Corolla,will this Engine last as long as the Corolla Engine ?

The strange thing is...the RAV4 Hybrid has a 2.5L Engine with the same weight...I just don't get it. 

It does have the Camry 2.5L, in the Edge model.  And the 2.0L Dynamic Force engine has as much power as the old 2.5L 2AR did in the previous Rav4 (which was the same size/weight), so I really don't see the issue here?  The previous model also had a 2.0L in the base model, with only a paltry 107kw (the old 3ZRFE that the Corolla Ultima sedan used to have), so nothing out of the ordinary here.

14 hours ago, pelebellz said:

Thanks for this! im just confused about the top pin/sleeve bit to remove as ive removed the lower bolt and am unable to swing the caliper up? Noob sorry

No need to remove anything up top, the top pin will act as the pivot point (might be a little bit sticky if they're old).  Also make sure the handbrake isn't on at the same time, as these cars use the rear caliper for the handbrake and not a separate internal drum.