Hiro

Were both oil level checks done on a cold engine (ie letting all the oil drain back in to the sump)?

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

What model/year do you have? No such thing as an AE107 in Aus

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

3 hours ago, Squalled said:

I wonder if the the South African based cars have it like ours which would make some sense too seeing as the Sportivo's were being assembled there.

Parts catalogues appear to indicate that is true (and that no other markets had it ie Europe)

I wonder if it's a Sportivo-unique thing then because the US 2ZZ XRSs don't appear to have it nor does the JDM Runx/Allex

11 hours ago, Squalled said:

I've seen the sump removed on an 04 and looked to be the same as my 05. I believe the Celica one is different to the Sportivo's in terms of the sensor from what I was told a while ago.

Pretty sure the Celica 2ZZ doesn't have the oil level sensor

Are the items in the display actually features on your model?  Often dash clusters will have provision for all items that can be fitted to that car (so there only needs to be one cluster manufactured, or maybe one for manual and one for auto).

For instance, my 1998 Corolla cluster has an ABS light which never comes on, because ABS isn't fitted to my car (it was an option extra).

9 hours ago, Chippps said:

Thabks heaps for the suggestions guys 

Will be getting some second opinions in the new year 

I'm all about learning how to fix things myself. I love seeing how things work and getting into new projects. 

Random question, what's the best way to get the car up and under the engine?

Using car stands, hydraulic trolley jack, car ramp? 

Thanks heaps for the advice. I'll be back with an update 🙂

If I'm not doing anything with the suspension then I use a low-profile trolley jack on the front tow-hook to lift the whole front-end up, and then jack-stands on the front subframe just next to where the control arms attach (to allow the wheels to droop).  If I'm working on the suspension I don't like having the stand right near where the control arm attaches so will usually either do one corner at a time (which can be annoying with the anti-roll bars) or support the body rather than the subframe.  Don't have any ramps but they could be useful for ordinary engine  maintenance like oil/coolant changes or exhaust work.

Whatever you do, don't use normal jack-stands along the side-sills (where you would jack the car up with a scissor-jack by the side of the road), you'll crush/bend the pinch-weld.  If you want to support the body away from the suspension then either use a jack-stand which has the notch to fit around the pinch-weld, or support the body via the pressed chassis rail just further inboard.

14 hours ago, TommyM said:

Pretty sure the 1MZ-FE's thermostat on the outlet side, because i know they have an external cast alloy filler neck

Nope, bottom hose (so cool side/engine inlet)

Remember that a lot of Toyota thermostats are installed on the inlet side to the engine/head (ie the "cool" side, or the bottom radiator hose) so they will be rated significantly lower than the boiling temp of the coolant etc unlike thermos installed in the top hose/"hot" side.  Need to be careful when comparing temps between engine manufacturers.

On 12/24/2020 at 7:33 AM, Squalled said:

What's your setup? I use my trusty G27 I've had for honestly about 8 years or so now. I played Assetto Corsa at friends place last year and got hooked after hearing so many good things about it. I got it March this year and haven't looked back. Got a heap of modded tracks in mostly Aussie ones like no longer existent Oran Park, Sydney Motorsport Park, Lakeside Raceway and a heap more. A modder I follow has also released Group A touring cars which I've always loved so I mostly steer those around.

I've got a G27 too, it's a solid wheel but I'm starting to look at upgrading as the centre dead-zone in the FFB is really starting to drive me nuts.  It's a symptom of the gear-drive that really can't be avoided unless you fork out for an upper-tier Thrustmaster or Fanatec wheel (with belt-drive).

Currently set up in an Obutto R3volution sim rig which is also acting as my work-from-home setup (I must admit being able to switch between my sim-rig and my work laptop simply by changing inputs on my monitor and mouse/keyboard is _not_ conducive for work performance...)

Cam cover gasket is easy to do if you're a capable home mechanic (even if your're not actually, it doesn't require anything other than basic tools).  Depending on which o-ring it is in the dizzy might make it a bit harder but it is still pretty simple to remove and install yourself (there is a flat on the shaft so it can only go in one way).  The control arms are also fairly easy to remove and install if you have a jack and a rattle gun, so really it all comes down to getting the parts and having a mate who can press the new bushes in (or a workshop that'll do it for cheap), get a bunch of mates together who know about cars and a case of beer and you'll be able to knock over 90% of the work for free (plus cost of parts).  AE10x Corollas are simple-as to work on (and I should know as I've been driving them for 15+ years)

3 hours ago, GenFUBAR said:

Thanks for that info Ian. The Echo does feel like it suddenly starts to pull harder from around 4k rpm, like the VVT is kicking in. My car being a 2005, I thought that that would've been early in the VVT days, I thought it'd work similar to Honda's VTec in that it ran with one cam duration, then kick in another when it reached a predetermined RPM. I know that these days the VVT systems usually have solanoids adjusting the cam timing as the rpm rises.

You learn something new everyday.

Nah Toyota started playing around with variable valve timing in the early 90s, back in those early days they were literally on/off systems triggered only at certain RPMs and throttle openings (much like the old variable intake systems such as TVIS).  By the time the NZ-series came around the second-generation VVT system (VVTi, with "intelligence") was well established, with infinitely variable timing (in the 1NZ case across a 60-degree range on the intake cam).  There may well be a particular change that occurs in the VVTi parameters at that RPM, but it isn't the entirety.  Engines naturally have points where torque will climb (and fall) due to a combination of intake runner length and camshaft profile, intake and exhaust restrictions, EFI maps etc even with non-variable valve timing.  Dyno plots also only show full-throttle response (which is very simplistic in engine terms), VVTi really comes in to its own in transient- and partial-throttle applications (99% of normal driving).

Cam duration can't be changed except for switching profiles.  In Toyota-world VVTi only changes timing (and by extension, overlap), VVTLi (on the 2ZZGE) has a second cam profile for high rpm which is more like the classic VTEC setup.

On 12/17/2020 at 2:12 PM, GenFUBAR said:

especially when the vvt kicks in.

VVTi doesn't "kick in" in modern motors, it is always running and is always varying the timing.  Not like the Lift changeover on the 2ZZ or the older non-intelligent VVT systems on the 20V 4AGEs.

I believe every J90 Prado had the dual tank except for the 4-cylinder petrol RV model.

TWM went out of business, so if you're after a new one then the MWR one wins by default [emoji14]

I've actually got the MWR Celica short-shifter in my AE102 Corolla (the housings are almost identical), it is significantly shorter which means you need to space the housing up (the ones that come with the MWR kit don't quite fit the Corolla) so the shifter cable cup clears the tunnel. Only real downside I've noticed is that the pivot ball feels slightly undersized compared to stock so there is a bit of slop/rock especially side-to-side

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

No such thing as a "T20" gearbox in Toyota-world (there are T-series manual gearboxes, but a 20 would indicate a 2-speed).

Would help if you give the actual code for the engine too, as "1.8L fuel-injected" could refer to several different engines (which has a flow-on effect for gearboxes too)

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

On 11/30/2020 at 8:32 PM, Jacken said:

I see you mentioned around 200KM's as well, maybe I should lower my standards rather than always looking out for low KM's, I guess we are talking about Toyota's hey (I hear they last a very long time.. I'm honestly not too familiar with them but want to be)

Remember we're talking about a ~15 year old car here, 20,000k a year is entirely reasonable which means 300,000 all up.  Especially since the wagons are more likely to have been used by rural owners or for family road-trips

If by Avensis you mean the Avensis Verso, then it is quite likely to be completely normal.  You are afterall driving a tall slab-sided and relatively narrow-footed van, not a low-slung sports car or sedan.

Sounds waaaaaay overpriced (especially for a base-model Ascent), even Sportivos don't go for that much.  I've been keeping an eye out for ZZE wagons for a while, and for a good condition pre-facelift model with ~200k they seem to be going for around the $5k mark (although I've solely been looking at manuals, and private sales rather than dealers), there are some $2-3k bargains out there but they tend to be much higher ks.

If it was a Levin it might be close to actual value, but no way for an Ascent (or even a Conquest).  COVID is completely screwing with used car prices, if you can afford to wait a little while they'll hopefully start to drop back down a bit.

Anything bigger than a 400cc and really no normal road car stands a chance if the biker is even halfway inclined to race

Shifter cables are now out, the two screws for the cover on the tunnel are a right pain as they are buried underneath the ECU (which I was taking out anyway) and the heater core (which I definitely wasn't removing), managed to get there in the end but it really isn't a job for those with large hands (nowhere near as bad as on the Celica though).

Swapped the MWR short shifter and SpeedSource solid bushes back over to the 6-speed shifter housing and then chucked it back in just to double-check the washer stacks (so it doesn't bottom out on the tunnel), will need to trim the battery tray before I try and fit the Celica shifter cables however. At least the shift pattern on the TRD knob finally matches the gearbox...

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

The red does line up with the stock ECU lift zone, but I don't think stock lift engagement will be used for long.

Trial-fitted my AE102 Sprinter dash cluster the other day whilst I was starting to pull the interior out, the gunmetal dials look good (apart from the bubbles) but the lens has hazing in places and I would really like a 9k tacho for the 2ZZ so not sure if I'll stick with it (needs re-pinning anyway).



Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk

So, some kind of progress happened...

There's now a big empty hole in my life....I mean my engine bay

One 7AFE + C52 extracted as ordered

And now the install begins...

Step 1: Check Euro-spec ZZE112 timing-end mount fits. 

It does (no mods required)

Step 2: Check C52 gearbox mounts fit Celica C60
They do (slight mod required to stiffener on top gearbox mount but could be left off)

Step 3: Check fitment of C60 in to Corolla engine bay

It fits (just), clears subframe (although will need sump/block attached to 100% confirm), however battery tray will require some surgery to allow the front-mounted Celica shifter to work (battery will be getting relocated anyway)

Step 4: #getonthebeers

Check

Aus-built part numbers are often unique in the Toyota world and thus won't show up on most (if not all) global parts catalogues, due to the high percentage of locally-sourced parts (usually trim).