Hiro

32 minutes ago, Zach said:

As the title says, pointless forum, over 90 views on a question and no answers. Seems to be the same with everyone else's question , heaps of views and no replys 😂 what a joke, ****ers

Just because there looks like lots of views, doesn't mean people have actually looked at your question.  Search engine daemons/bots etc will add to view totals obviously without replying (because they aren't real people)

Also, chill out.  You posted your question not even a day ago - not everyone visits every day, and the people who do might not know the answer either.  Forums all across the internet are shells of themselves compared to ~10 years ago, due to Facebook and other social-media platforms, and a lot of that has come about people being too impatient to hang around and contribute to a community.

The de-Ascent-ifying of Marvin continues - brand new genuine foglights and surrounds (from the top-spec Levin), everything was pre-wired so just needed the relay (installed ages ago when we had the dash apart) and combination switch. Globes are selective-yellow Osram Fogbreakers.

Also finally got around to getting the black steering wheel controls w/ the hands free buttons installed on the ZRE wheel, I probably still prefer the silver but the blacks are growing on me.

On 8/13/2022 at 4:38 AM, Mimi22 said:

- If purchasing from a dealer, is the car still considered an import by insurer?

Yes.  The defining factor of being an import is where that particular car was sold new.

On 8/13/2022 at 10:34 AM, campbeam said:

Big disclaimer that I am not a Corolla owner with no direct experience. I did go and view YouTube videos but only saw ones relating to USA and the hub assemblies looked to be different. Also they were having to press on the hub assembly.

Finally went to the Amayama parts website and located a diagram for the front hub assembly of the Corolla ZRE152R.

https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/toyota-general/corolla/ZRE152R/1733/chassis/4303

Certainly indicates that it is a bolt on/off part.

Best way to confirm the relevance of this information/diagram is to actually jack up the vehicle and remove a front wheel.

Quite possibly due to the US-market technically being a different chassis to here.  Our 10th-gen Corollas are ZRE15x (the Euro-style wide-body) whereas the US is ZRE14x (a wide-body version of the narrow-body JDM series, also in SE Asia).  Hubs are definitely different regardless too because they ran 5x100 whereas ours are 5x114.3.

2 hours ago, Corolla18 said:

On this topic of the Toyota GT86 wheels if you could please assist?  I am planning to purchase second hand Toyota GT86 "2013" wheels to fit on my 2018 Toyota Corolla sedan, but not 100% sure they will fit and if there will be other concerns I need to be aware of?  Spec's as I could gather from both vehicles:

Toyota GT86 "2013"

- 16x6.5 ET48, PCD 5x100, Centre Bore 56.1mm, threat size M12x1.25mm, Tyre size 205/55/R16

Toyota Corolla 2018 Sedan

-6.5J x 16 ET39, PCD 5x100, Centre Bore 54.1mm, threat size M12x1.5mm, Tyre size 205/55/R16

Thanks

 

Not without modification or additional parts - the offset on the 86 wheels is too high and you'll have clearance issues to the brakes.  Also, the 2mm difference in centre bore might cause vibration issues depending on how well the wheel nuts will locate the rim (hub rings can fix this but they'll be thin AF)

7 hours ago, Toyota Owners Club said:

I have used Fenix in the past and had no issues with their products (French company I believe)

Kiwi actually

No massive changes for a while, got a full set of foglights on their way but in the meantime I thought I'd raise the driveway about 25mm towards the chassis

Only went Lows as this still has to be a practical load-carrying daily.  Kings weren't my first choice but there are ridiculous wait-times for springs from Lovells these days (like 3+ months)

4 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

There's nothing worse when you have it 3/4 the way apart then realise you need a specific tool which you don't have and being a Sunday too. Put it all back together and do it another day lol...

There is something worse - getting 3/4 of the way apart and realising you need a special tool/part, AND you can't put it back together because something has to be replaced (as a consumable) or broken...

6 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I remember back in the day and their cheezy commercials. "they fixed the car"

Furteen furty furty too

5 hours ago, Squalled said:

A shucks! I feel that would've saved my hands from a few cuts 😅 Oh well managed to do it without the lubrication but they were definitely much harder to manipulate compared to the standard pedals.

I found the brake easier than the clutch too, because you could hook one or two corners over and then push the rest on with your foot against the resistance of the pedal - clutch would just go to the firewall.

Brake and clutch pedal are a bit easier with some detergent or the like, they are harder than the standard ones though since they don't have as much flex

Standard Toyota wheel stud/nut thread is M12x1.5

Also, why 4 lock nuts per wheel?  The ZZT231 is 5-stud, so you'd either run 4 normal alloy nuts and 1 lock nut per wheel, or 5 lock nuts per wheel if you're really pedantic/paranoid.

On 7/23/2022 at 12:04 PM, marks_2_sparks said:

ZRE122 280mm rotors (DBA 759S)

ZZE122 (not ZRE), and they're 275mm (not 280)

The original XV36 sprays should be a "fan" type, not a jet or twin-stream.  I have retrofitted them to my AE102 and they worked fine.

https://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/7991-hiros-ae102/page/7/#comment-563956

Try connecting the pump outlet directly to the washers with a short length of new hose (will need to remove the bottle for this and sit it up on top of the engine).  If it works fine then, try a length of hose equivalent to what would be running, it is possible that even if the lines aren't blocked that the hose has deteriorated over time and caused the flow/pressure to drop substantially.  If the pressure, flow and spray pattern are fine through the new long hose length, then you know the problem lies somewhere inside the guard and the old hose/connectors need to be replaced

The AE112 Sportivos do have a history of failing ECUs - they're a TOMs specific unit that is very expensive to replace.  I know several instances of people replacing them with aftermarket units rather than trying to get the factory one replaced or repaired (and considering there were only 110 of them, more than a couple people accounts for a statistically significant percentage).  Fortunately, almost the rest of the stuff (alternator, distributor etc) is standard common-or-garden 7AFE so relatively cheap and easy to replace

The spec sheet for the Kakadu lists the following

Kerb Weight - 2350kg (this will be full of fluids etc, but no passengers or cargo).  Basically how much it weighs parked in your garage.

Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) - 2990kg.  This is kerb weight + maximum cargo capacity in the vehicle, including passengers.  Thus, you have 640kg allowed to account for the four passengers and whatever you have in the boot (fridge included).  Importantly, when towing this ALSO includes the towball weight of the trailer (as it is putting a vertical load on the suspension).  Also, this will include any bullbars, roof racks and other accessories added.

Towing Capacity - 3000kg (if trailer brakes are fitted, only 750kg if they aren't).  This is the maximum weight of the trailer that can be towed

Gross Combined Mass (GCM) - 5990kg.  This is Gross Vehicle Mass + the total mass of the trailer.  Note that this allows you to tow the maximum rated capacity trailer even when you are at the GVM limit, however it doesn't mean that if you reduce the GVM you would be able to tow more than the towing capacity (ie if you're 300kg below the GVM you're still limited to 3000kg towing, even though you'd be 300kg below GCM).

In your case, I'm going to use some incredibly conservative (and in no way personal) numbers to get a rough guide.

2022 Kakadu kerb weight - 2350kg (you can also save yourself 60kg here by going the flat tailgate with the spare mounted underneath the floor)

4 passengers - 300kg (2x 100kg adults and 2x 50kg kids, some big assumptions here)

A boot load of stuff + trailer ball load - 340kg (170kg trailer ball + 50kg fridge + 120kg "stuff")

You're now at your 2990kg GVM (2350 + 300 + 340).  You can still tow a full 3000kg trailer (assuming the ball weight isn't more than the 170kg above) and still meet your GCM.  Since your van is 2750kg (2350 dry + 400 cargo) you'll meet that fine.  Just be mindful of how much "crap" you pack (or if my passenger weights are way off, pun intended, that gives you a bit flexibility).

GVM and GCM upgrades are also a thing, however I believe the Kakadu can't have these fitted due to the rear air springs.  If you're _really_ set on a Prado but can handle a slight downgrade in spec and offroad capability, then a VX + GCM upgrade might be the better bet.  Note that GVM upgrades don't normally change GCM, and these things can also vary state-to-state so be sure to check with your local transport authority.

And if a second one happens to also turn up I'd gladly snatch it up too

On 6/9/2022 at 2:25 PM, Tony Prodigy said:

Mate, you are the voice of reason. That makes a whole lot of sense now, but gee the emissions differences certainly throws a spanner in the works.

A lot of diesel guys hate modern common-rail engines, since everything is so highly strung (not to mention the addition of EGR/DPF etc)

47 minutes ago, Daughterscar said:

Hi would st204 panels be compatible with sx-r thank you

ST204 is a chassis code, SX-R is a spec.  I don't believe the SX-R was offered in any other series than the 6th-gen, so there shouldn't be any real problems (other than possibly year-to-year differences)

On 6/8/2022 at 3:41 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

I've never heard of coding your injectors. That is hilarious, but If that's what needs to be done, then so be it. 

Common-rail diesel injectors run significantly higher pressures and tighter tolerances than normal petrol ones - "coding" is basically benchmarking the injector to generate a unique performance profile, and then programming that information in to the ECU so that it can fine-tune the fuel delivery/timings for optimal performance and emissions.  Think of the good old days of fine-tuning individual jets within a multi-barrel carby to match the flow characteristics of each intake runner.

As to why being an import might trigger issues, this could come down to differences in emissions packages between the importer and importee markets, different ECU programmings, or even physically different injectors.  There may not be any _real_ issues, but a lot of places just wipe their hands of dealing with any imports because they don't want to run the risk of grenading engines due to unknown parameters.

On 6/5/2022 at 8:43 AM, Tony Prodigy said:

Can't see why not. The steering controls really have nothing to do with how the boss or the steering shaft is configured, so I would safely say, yes.

I cannot imagine the company retool just to accommodate steering controls. It's a ridiculous assumption.

It's the clockspring that could be the big issue.  Even if the plug is there, you need to make sure the clockspring actually has all the pins populated at both ends and all the wires inside the unit.

Don't worry about the badges/trophies etc, I doubt anyone here cares about them (it's just something built in to the forum software)

'99 Camry was a 70L tank as well, not 80L.  Regardless, it's highly unlikely that tanks would be swappable between chassis series as different as the XV20 and XV40 are.

The Injen and AEM systems were most likely both developed for the US market (as both are US companies), so there is likely no difference in fitment/compatibility between the two.

4 hours ago, Angrysubie64 said:

 

What do you mean by ‘slight sensor differences’?

And what should I do to fix up the slight sensor difference issue?

I'm just covering my ***** in case there are little differences between US- and Aus-market 2ZZs, things like emissions packages etc.  For instance, 03+ US-market Celicas had drive-by-wire throttles (like the Aus-market 1ZZs on the facelift ZZE Corollas) whereas all Aus-market 2ZZs stayed cable-throttle.