Manxman

Young man, if you cannot read, write and comunicate effectively, then life gets very tough. Indeed, learning becomes almost impossible. No-one needs an education more than he whom doesn't have one. Words have meanings, and using the wrong words only causes confusion-especially with technical things. Does "idlers" mean ideas? It makes sense if it does, but I cannot forever think for you. I am unable to do it, sifting wheat from verbal chaff is too difficult for me. Whilst your ambition is admirable, I suggest you first do more preparation by learning good communications. If someone could drop by and visit, they might be more useful than struggling with this forum.

To quote Kylie Mole, "School's full of illegitimate kids. Can't read or write or anythingk."

Cold-blooded murder of the English tongue. Only now do I see how bad schooling has become.

I finally worked out that I can use the 5L plugs in the 2LII, which will mean no mods to the timer circuit. A great relief. When the rain stops [another week prediced so far] I'll continue with the batt recharge and perhaps exchange plugs between the engines. I will also replace the pre-heat light. NB I do not know what plugs are in the 2LII, but I'll find out. AFAIR it's a 10mm and deep 12mm socket job, with fair access past the manifold.

We have power at the glowplugs-perhaps they're burned out, I'll check the resistance- 0.4 Ohms total=1.6 Ohms each cold==abt 8 amp each. Reasonable to assume 4 plugs ok. Forgot to prime fuel system!!!!! Waiting on battery recharge to try again. Waiting on fuse for compressor to pump tyre. Pump needs 60A fuse, not avail in std auto fuse range, and 50A isn't enough. Bought 60A Maxi fuse, need an holder. Autopro <$15-. Temp bypass jumper in the old holder does the trick. Tyre valve leaking, fitted metal cap to seal it, plastic ones are never any good for that. So we wait for another day to get it to go. My glowplug pre-heating light is blown. I may put an extended timer onto it to help me give the plugs time to warm up. The timer keeps the 12V on the plugs indefinitely, until it starts, then pulses the plugs to keep them hot while the motor warms up. When the motor temp reaches a set figure, they are powered off.

No fire yet, Spins ok, most telltales on, except for glowplugs. timer fail? Need to check power at plugs. Water in filter light is on, does it go out if no water only as motor runs and charges batt? Does it kill glow if water in filter? Apparently not.

Found the glowplug wire down near the L eng mount. Put it in above the blue insulator, & the glowplug bus strip, and under the black insulator, and put the Earth that goes to the rear of the block into place. All is well. I think, with a bit more oil, it can be started up, but I won't risk it with only ~1/2 a sumpfull. I still have no oil pressure detection fitted, as the exhaust has to be away from it and that isn't in yet. And it will be LOUD, having no significant exhaust pipe, just a 3" stub out of the flange. I note that the 1989 2LII converted motor has a later model inlet manifold, with 5L type superglow arrangements and a vacuum operated butterfly to help kill the motor. It may be normal, but I doubt it. I cannot see any resistor around the glow connection in the manifold-they both look exactly the same. Apart from the electrical connector to the vacuum switch which is a different colour and physically different to prevent swapping parts from year to year, even though they both do exactly the same thing for the same reasons, the manifolds are identical. I'll conceed the manifold might be part of the turbo kit, but I wouldn't have thought it necessary, unless it's a larger dia than the std one. Without bigger valves and ports, that's not a great advantage.

Tailshaft done, water in radiator-holding. electrics seem to work but need to test glowpug power hold interval, and that the plugs are still good. I've designed a better glowplug holding cicuit, which, having held the power on for time T=~35sec, will then allow original timed pulses of power to maintain afterglow. Startup should be at S=30sec. A cheap countdown timer will be masticed to the dash to guide driver to at S. That may need abandoning in favour of a commercial generic PWM superglow timer, but it is cheap and easy to make up. I haven't tested the gloplugs independently-but I will. Motor spins over OK, but doesn't yet fire. Will be fuel or glows. Sulphated battery [660CCA) doing great job atm. Didn't expect it to still be this good. Will google glowplug preheat timing for 1985 4 Runner, and 1989 2LII. Will copy the one most likely to suit.

Well, It's nearly all done! It needs some more oil, the downpipe for the exhaust needs remaking, as the old one is too short/wrong angles. Then there's the torsion bar & tailshaft bearing....... Some water/coolant, test the electrics, and we can fire it up. Pump the tires, take it for a test drive.

Dipstick done! lost a nut holding the back bend on the turbo-- looks like 11mm hex exhaust nut. It's hung up somewhere, tho' I can't see/feel it anywhere, can't progress that until I get a replacement. Gosh that bottom one is hard to get at with my short, thick arms and large hands! Tailshaft brg nut undone, but my puller is rusted up so I can't get the flange off. The torsion bar--I'll leave it to last. I have the option of a boost gauge to fit. It's now raining-2.5 days expected, so I've stopped. I have some heater plumbing to restore and refit the starter motor, both blocked access to the dipstick plug. A sealed grub screw to lock the sleeve into the water inlet housing will allow me to fill the radiator.

The ex stud snapped, so the end fitting is removed from the turbo to be drilled and all threads tapped out. The dipstick bolt is now loose, with 8mm vertical play, but is captive in the motor. It was v tight for an hours' small turns with a breaker bar, then it finally loosened. So it sump off for me, pref in situ, or motor out as needed. Any advice? That leave only the tailshaft brg and the R torsion bar to be replaced next week. ##################################################### PS The dipstick bolt is a TIGHT chilled press fit I'm told, so I can wrench it out with a slide hammer or puller. It will be interesting to get. At least I can rotate it to weld all around it. That means I don't have to drop the sump. GREAT NEWS. Hilux Heaven-thanks 4 the info. much relieved. ##################################################### PS#2 It's out! Hammer and cold chisel from below onto exposed coner of bolt head, 2 taps and it flew out. I have it, and can have it drilled thru' with the flange. Simple jobs for an engineering shop, as I don't have the drill press needed. Wonderful. What a good day! It's Friday, and most engieeing shops close abt 4pm today. I'll have to hurry off if it's to get done early next week.

A problem. My exhaust pipe is prob too close to my oil gauge sender at the back of the motor. Is there some other simple place to put it? NB I'm an idiot-motor didn't have an oil switch fitted-so I really have no proof it's any good, apart from it used to run ok without knocking. Futher progress-exhaust cut and sleeved, ready to go in, glow timer extender made-now 38sec constant pre-glow time. just needs installing somewhere.... Need to replace R torque rod as hit it with grinder when cutting ex pipe. Have one on order, ditto tailshaft brg. extraction of rounded dipstick nut v difficult. need to get mig welder onto it. v dirty there, might get fire? A few heater clamps and some more oil, and she's almost ready to check all electrics, fill radiator, couple up the intake to airfilter and test start motor. Progress! I reckon it'll be running on or before Sat 6/7/2013. Driveable by Wed following, I hope. It really needs a good clean/detailing. I might pay someone, as I can't get down to do it, and car washes are pretty useless. I have a Karcher washer-a bucket of hot water and some good soap might be enough? BTW, I learned something the hard way. Those cheap 650W Chinese gensets need a minimum resistive load of 200W to get full 240V output. So you need more than just a soldering iron or laptop/reading lamp. I guess other units are similar. What can I do with 200W when camping, etc?

I have a bit more done-motor mounts secured. Can't undo dipstick nut on crankcase-extremely tight--is it locktited? Neither of them wil undo without rounding.. Damn soft bolts-it'll be a real bugger to get out now. I really hope I don't have to pull the motor out just to get it. I have an alternative dipstick tube ready to go in, but I want to remove the nut to clean/drill thru it. All my electrics are done, apart from the oil light wire, and the exhaust remains unfinished. I'll get onto it today, by cutting the header pipe under the drivers door to remove the front section, then I can easily cut the flange off with a decent stub, and reassemble the whole with the flange rotated and close sleeves over the cuts to reaseal the pipe. I still have a manifold stud to extract, but that will take more than presently available.. I've undone the clamp on the header pipe at the bellhousing area, so maybe I can extract it more easily. I have almost all the plumbing done, just need some clamps and coolant. Turbo timer and immob are fitted, have yet to make monostabe 555 timer to extend glow lamp on time to 30-40 sec $70 for generic timer is too much, when I can build one for abt $8-.

Click Memebers Galleries near top right of screen, click Manxman near top left of screen click on <the swap> to expand folder...3 pics. She's a rough old girl, but she's mine and I want to keep her going. PS I want a big cargo box in the gap behind the cabin....... Yes I have the correct front tray mounts, $96- ea new, $25-ea used. Fiddly fit, but not impossible. Will have to get it certified, of course. Good tubs getting scarce-it was $50- + lights. Won't touch 5L until next year, when I've cleared some bills. I expect to need rings, crank and a rod as minimum major parts. If my crank OK after regrind/X-ray I'll consider myself v blessed. Motor will need a complete internal wash out to remove failed brg wastes as there's grit in cambox oil.

Wiring almost completed-have spliced irreplacable connectors' wires to 2L, and will MAKE a 30sec timer to hold the gloplugs on full power from ign on, long enough to heat them up properly. When it times out the glo lamp will go off and things will revert to normal operation. I will patch it into and trigger it from the No1 glow relay power feed. I will HAVE to remember to remove it when the 5L goes back in. Have the glowplug thermistor left to splice in too. I need some 2.0 - 2.5mm dia eyelet [insulated] crimp connectors for my VDO e-oil pressure gauge. Suspect it's a Bosch part only, but need abt 5 of them. Anyone?

Beware of the risk of fire/explosion. Few second chances with petrol, less with gas, none with Hydrogen Like petrol, there are mixture ratios which will not ignite, but Hydrogen will EXPLODE on ignition with ANY presence of free oxygen. Both far too dangerous to use in even low accident rate traffic, IMO.

I'd suggest that the synchro may be a bit dicky, or the clutch release needs adjusting. Failing that, It's not run in or ..... I've no other ideas, but it ain't NORMAL. How Many KM?, where has it been and what's it been doing? Does vehicle condition match the claims---red dust anywhere usually means it been off or dirt road driven. Look into the wheel arches from the ground. See & Feel what's there. report in detail. Check drains in door bottoms, make sure they aren't blocked-insert tool to test-ur looking for mud etc. Any accessories to indicate past usages? Might have been a pilot vehicle? Council/tradie/mining/grey nomad/bushmans' etc vehicle? Any oil weeps? Does it select gears well when stationary, running and not? Hot & cold?

Just a very angry note: Toyota use their own, in-house Deutsch connectors on the 5L motors' electrics, and if you need to replace them you are REQUIRED to buy the whole relevant wiring loom, both sides. For a $5- part??????? They HAVE to think we're insane! Just chop them off and replace with Deutsch universal connectors-which should have been there in the first place. For me, it's difficult to remove and replace the connector on the fuel pump because the wires appear too short and it's mounted too snuggly in a confined space. I'd have to remove the fuel pump, which just ain't gonna happen at this stage. What a pack of swines. The parts clerk excused the practise by saying everyone else does it too. Thieves!!!! Legal corporate theives!!!! In case you haven't noticed, I get more than a little upset when it's demanded that I pay exorbitant prices for goods and services from the few discretionary dollars I can put into my projects. I cannot get some aluminium welding done for <$50- for what will be 10 minutes work to fabricate a part. I guess I'll have to pay it, as there's no convenient alternative, but you can bet I'll not use him again without protest. These guys seem to just invent a price from thin air, and expect the mug public to pay. That's not fair, and they all do it. It's hard to travel to their workplaces to do business. Phone shopping just leads to them making errors, on the simplest of jobs-I don't trust tradesmen-they're expensive, and they often bugger up the job because they just cannot/willnot do as told in a professional manner. I understand how to do the job, I haven't the tools or skills to DIY, so I hire them because they're quallified-and they wreck what I'm trying to do. Then they demand top wages for a stuff-up. I'm very upset by the commoness of such events.

I've saved some pics, check "My Media" when site maintenance finished.

Update: I've found the 3 wires on the car match 3 last "unused" wires in the regulator connector, colour for colour, so I will just join them up. My w'pump is incorrect, as the fan boss doesn't fit into it well-it's a little tight. I'm unwilling to jam it in via the nuts, that can be very hard to dismantle later, among other things. I'll HAVE to swap the temp senders for the superglow, -unless I use a universal timer, as it's got a different connector, as have a few other parts. I haven't found the connector for the starter solenoid yet, it may have fallen out of the loom, and the glowpug cables have vanished. They aren't in the tray? .Fuel lift pump has broken bracket, & may not work. 10 min priming got no resistance, no obvious pumping air from outlet. I may need to suck on inlet pipe to prime the filter so it will work. Darn Tojo for not making them easily repairable, They just never get out of your pocket! I need to remove the last exhaust flange bolt in the turbo-the thread is poor. The other 2 undid themselves. I'll try 2 locked nuts, but I'll have to get underneath it to do the job...... I've transferred my tools, I can nearly rest from the days work. So near, but still so far, and so many $$ to go.

Laws against using tow-ropes to move vehicles now. PITA, but that's road safety for you. $110- for 5km transport-30 mins?-suppose it's justified, but I certainly don't make petty cash that fast. Perhaps there should just be a tow-rope users' speed limit, say 10k/hr? Should be able to stop in a few M if lead car stops quick. [without hitting it]. I had the old girl towed home from my friends yard during the week, so I can finish it here. Anyone confirm LN147R header pipe is vertical in engine bay, or is it on angles? It looks awful to disengage and remove without a car hoist. Also, I want to be able to move the drivers seat back a bit further-any ideas/replacements? My thighs/gut are large, and don't fit well under the steering wheel unless I'm right back, and it's not quite enough-I need another 1" I'm willing to fit other seats, but the seat height cannot go up at all, and I have to have more leg room. Just wearing boots/joggers causes major leg problems. The leg well's too short, [and I don't want a 6 cyl monster]. I'm only 176cm/130kg, normally distributed. Why do I have such trouble, when taller people fit better than me? I know I'm fat-I'm working on it. Patience, please. Apart from that, I'm getting an 1/2 pallet to sit the 5L on, and some rollers to run it round the yard, where it will go under cover for a while, til I have money to deal with it-abt Jan 2014. Today, I'll be happy to put my tools away into safe storage. I fell out of bed asleep midweek onto my knees, and did some damage, still getting over the pain. Not good. Makes the walking difficult for abt 2 more weeks.

TKS. I worked out I need to identify the B, L & Ig wires at the external 1985 regulators' connector and join them up to the same wires in the car. Anyone able to look them up in a manual? The heavy white/x wires on car and regulator do go to terminal B of the alternator, under the nut. I just hope changing everything back won't be so difficult when I've repaired the 5L, in abt a yrs time........

HELP Pls? I'm trying to connect the 2L alternator, which has external regulation. I pirated the regulator, wiring loom and connectors from the 4 runner. I notice that 4 of the same wires are on the 5L electrics, with a different connector. Does that mean I can just join them across one to the other? The manuals I have say the 5L alternator is only internally regulated. I would have thought an internally regulated alternator would have only 3 wires (+ve, field and light], but both appear to have at least 5 [2field, light, white/x and fusebox]. The 2 field wires need to be regulated, so perhaps I need to look at the wiring more closely. I have installed the external regulator behind the fusebox, and hope to sort out it's connections. On terminal B is there a v heavy wire to the fusebox [ring teminal] and a heavy white/x wire with a F spade terminal? If not, where does this white/x wire go? I need the alternator to work, as I don't think I can swap them, unless I also swap the RH motor mount brackets, and prob the oil cooler unit-which I might not want to do now the motor is in. PS The alternator is captive in the mount, so I can't pull it out to look at it and see clearly. There isn't room to easily free it from the moved spacers.

After yet another 6hrs, the motor is IN. Problems with tools missing from site, disorganised and dirty bolts, extra odd jobs having to be done. G'box is coupled, motor mounts appear to be a bit thin, also don't sit down against stops with the holes lined up & don't reach across gap enough into the chassis brackets. What a nightmare of a job. No wonder mechs want $1600 to put a motor in. Awful access to too many bolts, very hard to get good ratchet or spanner arcs. Too much crap in the way. Power steering is unnecessary, it just needed a lower ratio steering box-that would have been cheaper and more reliable for the owner, but the market likes its luxuries, even when they are of little real advantage. My LN85R didn't have power steering, the ratio was wrong and it was just too heavy to move at low speed. Had the gearing been lower, it would have been acceptable. Nothing wrong with bigger steering wheels and 6 turns lock to lock. Now to do the electrics and plumbing........I have til early-mid June to get it done, but I doubt I'll have the budget for all the bits by then. I'm trying not to replace the w'pump/cam belt and rollers at this time. I suspect some parts are missing too. PS pulley etc. Yes, I did pirate the PS bracket from the 5L, so its pump could be refitted. The PS pump from the 2L was u/s, & I didn't want to muck around with plumbing and oil leaks. The new 5L clutch releases. We'll get there....

More progress: The sumps are swapped, with their pickups. Rain rapidly fills sumps unless sealed. >45mm yesterday, more today and for the next few days. Flywheel still to be fitted and have oil washed off it, then fit the clutch, pump a tire to be able to roll the car, and the motor can go in Sat, if it's not too wet. Slowly, slowly catchee monkey......