Manxman

Bought '85 4 runner with fair 2LT @ 370xxx km to put in place of my dead '99 5L. Should go straight in, with minor wiring probs and performance differences. Will have to sort things like ho/lo boost switches, connectors generally & exhaust pipe. Will transfer aircon cabin cooler element, fan speed resistors etc if possible, and have R134a converted pump spare. Will do for a yr or 2 whilst I pay bills and repair 5L. Will have to work out turbo timer/immob ccts etc. Now I just need the weather and physical ability to do the swapping. Should only take a day to get the new motor sitting in & home if everything is pre-loosened. The rest I can do at leisure. 85 4runner for other parts in Perth, anyone?

I've done a big end, and I need to replace the clutch & a few other bits. I'm expecting the crank and rod u/s. Is it realistic labour wise to replace the crank w motor in situ after removing gearbox, flywheel and rear seal retainer? If I pull the crank I expect to be able to remove piston from below to replace rod. Will I HAVE to remove front motor housing? Is this possible/better than removing the motor? NB I'm having trouble getting an hoist, and I'm on a loose surface, so it can't roll.

I bought a bare one on ebay abt a yr ago at $150-, put it aside, and only recently fitted it without close checking. Sadly, it was not from maker, but a dodgy person who had damaged the central body thread and substituted a shorter main bolt. Result was the thread finally failed and I've done a bigend or 2. None of this is the fault of the manufacturer, these are good, reliable devices-if correct parts are used, and they aren't abused. They have a steel insert in the base for the bolt, & I'm having it helicoiled. It shouldn't give further trouble. Motor repairs are another matter. The seller better hope I calm down before I find him. NB Check all accessories on delivery for servicability, and again before fitting, partic if a failure does expensive/dangerous damage.

My diesel hilux shouldn't have to need such a huge, heavy, expensive, short-lived battery. 3KW air starters are common enough, why doesn't Toyota fit them stock? The air receiver can go near the muffler. 12mm/19mm discharge plumbing isn't difficult. The unit would be reliable and could be made from existing commercial stock. No need to re-invent anything. The top up compressor isn't all that difficult to arrange-there's a huge alternator or a spare front pulley often avail.

5L motor, run abt 2hrs with small oil leak @ ~3000rpm. knock developed, NO red light, topped up oil, [3l] to 1/4 from bottom mark ~2000rpm for abt 7 min with knock. Transported back several hours later. not run since. No info on motor temp, or actual oil pressure. Leak from used Jackmaster oil filter with prev. undiscovered bad thread in ali body. i suspect it's a big end, will it likely need a crankshaft & rod replacement?

http://www.transport.tas.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0006/14964/Modification_Application_Form_revised_Nov_08.pdf

Could get tricky if not approved & copper gets picky. Should have some written appproval for mod? Expatriate Tas myself, don't know their rules now. google or ask?

1999 LN147R single cab-chassis-245000km: New fittments:-Dual cab tub fitted instead of full tray. new muffler, Jackmaster oil filter, 55/65W Halogen headlights--huge improvent. Repairs needed: Heater fan low speeds not selected, w'screen washer tank filler pipe broken at its base. Replace pigtail hook for trailer chains. Repair power to r rear tail light. Replace cabin light bulb. Replace clutch kit. repair all brakes Planned fitments: engine bay trouble light. Front tray mounts from dual cab chassis- [>$90 ea new] $50 used pr. Space between cab and tub: 2 adult sized fibreglass bathtubs, top one inverted, both flangeless & joined together to form secure, weatherproof carry chamber for cargo that won't fit in the cabin but has to be left in vehicle. Steel angle iron mounts & vertical perimeter securing bands cast integrally. Left side door access only. Minimal internal dividers/shelving. Paint against UV. Retain drain in lower bath for easy cleanout. Install drain plug for normal running. Fit flo-thru' ventilation, left in, right out 3D-X flow. Install light and 12V ciggy sockets near door. Install flood light 4 tray Total hi-vis respray. Comments are invited on my DIY project. It exists because I couldn't afford a decent dual cab at the start, but this ute was a bargain too good to ignore. I've had it abt 18 mths so far. This should be my last vehicle.

Starter pinion bearing prob needs replacing too. new replacement >$300- try ebay. repair shop might try to force new rather than repair-but repair is generally worthwhile. DIY is not physically difficult-but you DO have to understand what to do. The armature stuff you take to shop and pay for. they have the tools. While your at it, do the alternator brushes and bearings-they wear out abt the same time, and you are at typical failure milage. I can't walk you thru it this time, I'm going offline for a week or 2 tomorrow. Hopefully there'sd enough web info and help to see you through. Forumites should be good help.

test starter motor and solenoid-expect worn brushes &/or rusty solenoid/bad contacts. Brushes are abt $20/set. Proper install can be expensive. Apparently they need soaking in motor oil for >8hrs b4 install. You should also have the armature tested for dead windings and the commutator machined smooth and undercut properly. Do NOT use lead solder to attach them, use the new electronics lead free stuff or silver solder-NOT lo temp!!!! DO use anti-wicking techniques. Check for bad connections at all hi current terminals, ANY deterioration is serious to a 12V 2KW motor.

Q1 better handling-no change to ride firmness unless shocks u/s. Q2 yes Q3 shoundn't Q4 personal choice. Do you NEED the ground clearance? NB are they a legal fitment? [Has it passed insection with the mod?]

Keep o'all wheel diamer as close to OEM as practical-keeps speedo close to accurate. OD tyres can improve economy in lightly loaded vehicles with undergeared diff(s). Steel rims can be knocked back into round when bent, alloy one just break if you try, and need fancy welding if bad. Wider tyres generally DON'T handle wet roads well at speed, as they can't pump the water away from under the tread as easily. Low profile tyres aren't good for off-/rough roads-not strong/high enough sidewalls to resist pinching tyre against/damaging rim on bumps. Check what sizes of 8 plys are commonly available-they have a few restrictions, I think, & you can't afford to HAVE to buy an odd sized tyre because they haven't got a match in stock.

I don't have an oil pressure gauge, and want to know roughly what hot idle oil pressure I can expect from a good 245000km motor, and roughly by what rpm full oil pressure is regained on new cartridges and oil? NB I WAS going to use the oil light switch hole for a feed, but realizing the rear bearing feed would be more seriously affected, and believing the supply weaker than ideal, I will fit a sandwich plate. Just curious, does the vacuum pump draw oil from sump or mains oil pressure feed? I have a new, unused, spare Indian-made SCC20 cleanable centrifugal filter if anyone is interested. 6mm supply, 2x1mm discharge holes @ r=25mm-55psi max, with 1.5mm dia regulation hole. Flow is abt 20gal/hr + regulation discharge. Prob Imp. w bronze bushes. Suit sumps upto 20L or biodiesel. <1 micron filtration claimed.

Is ebay best price? Don't need extra HD.--std will do. Local retail is $265-. Anyone better?

Mine's stamped into the metal-very difficult to remove! At least those behind know what you're driving, and to keep clear.

I just think it's mean of Toyota not to fit decent lights in the first place. BTW My OEM sealed beams are way out of pre-focus too, far too much change between the settings, & no lever-operated light adjustments either. Mean & stingy.

If the Amarok is FWD I won't touch it-ever! I don't like EU dumping surplus stock into our market, and Jerry can get very technical and expensive quite quickly. My car is a long term investment, and the extra $$ have to be justified by something substancial.

Fair and reasonable warning. BTW anyone in the West able to provide the upgrade?

10/1999 cab chassis: have twice installed a new CB & a used radio/CD player-on both occasions the tail light fuse has blown, knocking out the instrument lights as well. It's was 10A mini blade fuse in the engine bay, currently 7.5A and blown.. The original radio cassette had 2 adapter power connections: a switched accessory-on +12 -blue- and permanent feed(?) +12V-yellow. I do not know which is the illumination only for the OEM radio-cassette. the Earths, all black, are joined together. the blue wire has the accessory wire-red from the radio and red-for the CB joined to it. With the key off everything is off, with the key on accessory or run the CB works and the backlight in the radio display lights up-but nothing else of it works. I have connected yellow to yellow on the radio, hoping that it would provide 12+ permanent to hold the memory, but I suspect that cct is dead ATM-WHY?. Only 2 speaker ccts are connected colour and mate to colour and mate, & all other wires cut off at both connectors. There are no shorts in the adapting connectors nor to any metal framework. This is the second radio CD, the first one had a CD loading motor working, but no sound/display. This one-nothing, and wired the same. I think it has a CD in it as I can't feed one in. Why did the fuses blow? Memory retention doesn't use Amps-EVER! It appears I have some wires crossed-Tojo deliberately made the connection different from the obvious common "standard", just to make it hard for the unwary. Swines. I've made an error. The Black wires-Earth, need to be on car pin 7, not pin 9 [which is the external amp activator, designed for +12V, max 300mA]. I'll shift the wires and report back. The CB is earthing through the chassis, tail and gauge lamps, but the radio has no power for the memory, it having been shorted to the chassis by the incorrect earth wire, which is attached to the radio case internally. Unit is dead! Cannot turn on. Have replaced fuses, repositioned Earth wires, CB is fine, but this thing is useless.

The horn is normally powered, needeing only an earth on the return line to make it work. If the radio was connected to the return wire and was of low power, it might just be that there is no power coming back from the horn, because the horn has failed and is not a closed circuit. Please clean connector and horn terminals to get good connections. Fill connections with baking soda and drip water to dampen it-leave several hours. Rinse clean, rinse again with methylated spirits and let dry 8 hrs. you should be able to see BRIGHT metal in both connectors-clean/scratch until you can. {no glasspaper or nailboard} Reconnect & test horn, whilst moving connections on horn. Please test the wiring at the horn for 12V+ on both sides with the connector & ign on and the horn off. A test light or voltmeter will do. If power is available both sides, please ignore what I just wrote. If no power either side-check fuse. If power one side, horn is u/s-REPLACE!!!!

Cold weather snaps kill weak batteries. Bad/dirty connections kill starting. Clean sulphates with warm water and baking soda, toothbrush the hard stuff. Wire brush cleaners are good for removing oxides. Gloplugs normally draw abt 20A each, Diesels all need BIG batteries, at LEAST 650CCA. They NEED big, thick, clean terminals with plently of metal to carry the current-not the cheap wrap around sheetmetal crud that makers now use. The terminals need to be firm so they don't move on the post, and NO more. Brass and Lead lugs are quite good, and whilst the conversion is $$$ if you buy new cables, it's worthwhile. Belt any idiot whom overtightens your new terminals. All they do it stretch them into early replacement. Quick detach types are useful. [NB their cable post bolts are different sizes, + & -.] You need big clean contact areas, with thick metal on them to carry the many 100's.of Amps. A good diesel battery will crank for at least 1 min total, but watch you don't cook the starter. Expect to replace starter and alt brushes abt 250,000km, often earlier if petrol. Expect to replace brake and clutch cylinders (all) every 14 years unless re-sleeved with stainless steel. They corrode. vehicle security draws minimal current, as do stereos, clocks etc. 1A isn't a lot, but it's enogh to kill your starting after a few days without a run. I'd say something is wrong for that much continuous drain. Its 8W-12W, make sure its not the cabin light, it will be hard to detect the heat if it's over an area, but feel away when all else is cold-it might be easily found. Sparkys tend not to give free info, they need to bill you for it. STA fuse is alternator, regulator feed AFAIR. I suspect you have a bad regulator or rectifier in your alternator. NOT cheap replacement. Recommend professional testing, get several quotes. Once you know what needs replacing DIY!!!!!! Parts are avail online, and they aren't difficult to service. You might need help undoing the connectors.....

Idle speed too low/bad fuel filter? AC should force idle to at least 900rpm, possibly more-see manual for precise behaviour. Do not often run low on fuel-it sucks up all the crud from the bottom of the tank into the system, and it may invite air bubbles into fuel lines-All cause bad running or damage.

I hear no-one does these exchange. Common prb is the water trapped between the 2 seals on the bottom corrodes the shaft. My first guess is to try a Speedi-Sleeve. They're cheap and easy to install, and I'm sure they could be often fitted before it got more expensive than a full rebuild--weld/bronze/grind and chrome, or new part.

My primary background is displaying as grey or black, with thin white print. It's very hard to see anything or read. I know my hardware is oid, & I am running XP3, but this site is useful and I want to see it better. My vision is poor and this site is making life unnecessarily hard, even if it is envionmentally responsible. It humanly impossible. pls amend.

Can hear a whine from the motor now-quiet at idle, becomes audible, then gets drowned out after 1500rpm. Just wondering if it was a typical problem so it can be identified. Disappears on overrun. Also, anyone know of affordable mufflers in Perth, WA? 2 local quotes over $300 for muffler, not OEM-seems steep. The 5L is too powerful for my use, and I'd benefit from a 2nd o'drive gear. Thank the Lord there's no E.M.U. & crap in this one!. Recent run: Perth-Albany-Perth: 1140km $70@$1.48 with mild load @ 80kph avg. + $60@ $1.56 with mild load @ 90kph. 1 med. m'cyle upright angled in tray @ 85kph avg, passive driving both ways. UPDATE: Seems to be power steering pump/belt. Tension a bit low, noisy that side of motor. I have the easy alternator to re-brush, which I must do soon to prevent troubles.