Rosegum

Check to see if the saddle rubbers were changed with the springs. Mine weren't and i ended up having to do the whole job again.

Don't trust Pedders,

Dodgy mongrels charged me 800 just to put in a set of lowered springs after they had quoted me over the phone for shocks as well. I would have done it myself but work was too hectic and i didn't have the time.

When i caught some free time i got new shocks and dropped out the old ones to find that the springs were sitting metal on metal. So they hadn't even changed the saddle rubbers the new springs being shaped differently to the old carved clean through them and dropped some of the tension in the spring at the same time.

Im not sure if it was the same noise as your experiencing but lowered springs are going to present all sorts of new sounds you hadn't heard before.

And cheap trolley jacks, don't leave em up too long(although i have supported a front end on one for 2 weeks), keep the main piston shaft clean and oiled, don't over tighten the valve and you should have many happy years service. I have 2 $25 jacks that ive had for 4 or 5 years now and ive never had anything drop on me. We put one under each end of a chassis and push em round the garage to make space.

Makes me wish i had a stock 122 prolly looking for a house before another car though

Check your fuse box when it shuts down. You may have a loose connection somewhere in the loom that causes overheating in a relay(excessive switching) which in taragos tend to be next to the ignition relay and thermal circuit breakers. Touch the relay's if any are super hot check back down through the devices on that relay.

What engine is in it?

far out man, im still having troubles slamming from 1 to 2!! its either it grinds or i miss the gear.

how can i fix this people?!?! =/

I don't think it can be "fixed" your asking for a standard family car gearbox designed for smooth granny shifting to take an 8K shift. I keep hearing about clutch adjustments but as far as i know the only change you can make is to adjust the pedal-shaft push distance and the release bump stop. From the firewall out there is nothing to adjust. If you weren't getting proper dis-engagement of the clutch you'd know about it at lower revs as well. Stalling with the clutch in, crunching every cog at high or low rev.

It's not a hydraulic racing box it's a mechanical device with a slow biological-cable attachment.

Thanx for everything Hiro My loom is now complete. Ill draw up my own schematic for anyone else that decides to go the same way i did.

should make it alot easier.

I'm almost done all i need now is the pic that has the alternator on it.

If you post that it would be great.

I've had a few people say they have sent emails that i haven't received.

Ill give my ISP a call and see what they can find out.

I was worried you had disappeared i pm'ed you last week. But got no reply.

Could you post them too an image site that i could retrieve em from don't want to abuse the forum bandwidth.

Thx for this one it's a huge help.

I'm hoping someone has a manual for 93-98 corolla

i need to know what the code for the 6 wires from the distributor are

even a quick scan of the engine management schematic would be great.

One i spotted awhile ago while doing contract work for terry white.

Black Runx parks under the IBM HP building in Milton.

Just wondered if the owner was here.

My AE80 with backseat removed no boot trim, skinny spare and 4afe bounces between 880 and 900kg on the bridge. Probably not relevant but fun to drive.

Is it uncommon for a stock corolla to have a 2zz?

100% of stock sportivo's (last model) have 2zz engines in them

I'm talking about a straight black base model corolla, looked like an ordinairy ZZE122, and the VVTL-i sticker looked factory.

And the driver was a early 20's female, so i doubt she stickered it herself.

Not that i have researched engine upgrade options.

It just seemed odd to see.

1220 - 1350+ kg depending on trim.

try seraching the forum's other members have quoted weight's for stivo's

Dark blue stivo next to the train line in salisbury.

seen a few around lately just haven't posted.

Was one Corolla i saw Black no stivo badges, skirts anything. But a VVTL-i sticker on the hatchlid. Nice set of 16's.

Cute chick driving it too!

Is it uncommon for a stock corolla to have a 2zz?

my old 2a-c with the c40 used to do it to and i know it was all down to lazy clutch work

My last sound deadening mission was in an XF Falcon.

Removed all the interior and brushed black jack through out the whole car.

I was very happy with the results and it cost about $50.

I had 235 50 16's all round and they made a hell of a racket before hand, after the job they were barely noticeable and the sound quality from the stereo was better as i was losing less energy to the body work.

Hi, got a problem with a 86 tarago, fuel injected, motor spluttered then stopped, i think there is a electric fuel pump in the tank, the filter is bolted on the side of the motor

I cant hear any buzzing fuel pump sounds, does anyone know if there is a relay or fuse for the fuel pump and where they would be?

whats the easiest way to get to the pump, do i have to drop the tank or is there a inspection hole in the floor pan?

Could there be any other problems i should look for?

thanks

from what i can determine there is a test connector for the fuel pump under the seat in the engine bay. If you short the points together the fuel pump will operate independently from the engine and you should hear it without starting the engine. The pump uses a fuel pressure control system so if the ignition is on but pressure in the fuel line doesn't decrease (no injector fire) then the pump will wait for pressure decrease before it turns on. Shorting the test connector fires the pump constantly.

If you can hear noise from the fuel tank remove the drivers side engine cover and squeeze the fuel supply line.

If you can squeeze it flat the pump needs replacing as it's not pumping fuel, if not you should feel fluid pressure in the hose whichs confirms not only pump activity but something more sinister.

Try resetting the ECU by pulling out the EFI Fuse for 30 seconds then replacing it.

I’ve owned a few Toyota’s such as a 1973 RT81 Corona, 1972 SL1900 Corona and recently a 1986 Tarago GLi. A problem I noticed in the Tarago is with the body work. As a mechanic I viewed many of these vans and found this reasonably consistent acquired defect around the roof line mostly in the vicinity of joins (but not on the joins themselves) that are covered by the side sliding door and the tailgate. With the moon roof where were also similar cracks in corners of those areas. It is more common in the models with high tops and/or sun/moon roofs where these structural cracks occurred.

With my Tarago I returned to the Toyota dealer where I purchased the vehicle and asked them if this was a common complaint. They said “no” but they took photos and appeared to take interest but nothing was done.

I sold the vehicle after about two years and the cracks always bothered me but didn’t seem to get worse. Apart from surface rust in those areas there was little more that was remarkable.

About two years ago I sent an email inquiry too Toyota Australia and asked them if this was a common fault. I received a phone call within a few days from a manager in the engineering department who gave the typical dismissive response but contained an element of threat in his tone of voice.

My concern regarding this alleged fault is that this would weaken the vehicle’s ability to maintain the occupant’s safety in a motor vehicle accident. Although I’m not an automotive engineer, it is my guess that the vehicle’s roof would peal off allowing the vehicle to crush into the shape like a banana and further expose the occupants to injuries from external intrusions.

I have not seen this issue within the media and I would hope that this issue would be addressed in any vehicles manufactured since then. I’ve noticed that other vehicle manufacturers do have a similar problem but nowhere near as prevalent as in the Tarago range. I noticed that the Liteace range also had a similar issue but the Hiace seems to have missed out generally.

Jonathan

My mum's 87 has big cracks where the handle for the rear tailgate is. on both sides at the top of the indented section no major cracks round the roof line but the external seam is very soft and is probably rusting from the inside out.

Is it EFI or carbed?

My mum has a 4WD 87 EFI but i have the manual that suits 83-86 also.

The fuse in question is the Charge fuse.

I did a mud schematic in paint hope it's helpful enough.

The reason you have more power with 98 but you notice more noise is because your engine is constantly on the verge of or is pre-detonating or more commonly known as pinging.

The extra noise you hear is the shockwave created by the spark ignited flame crashing into the pre detonation flame. Which can have disastrous effects , Which is why most EFI systems have a Knock controller or sensor that informs the ecu whether it should add more or less fuel or advance or retard timing to counter the effect.

The 95 RON isn't pre detonating because it has lower explosive qualities and doesn't react as much to the pressure at point of compression, so it will run smoother and quieter.

I've found geographical situation is the biggest factor in choosing fuel. When i'm home in Brisbane i run 95, down south 98 or 100 whatever i can find, and when up north it's 91. The fact that fuel stations ask an arm, leg and first born up there might have a small part to play in my decision but i notice no ill effects. Relative humidity and temperature where you drive regularly are huge factors in what fuel you should decide to use.

just some warning. dont skip gears! it ******s up the syncros etc.

if you in 5th gear down to 4th,3rd, 2nd.

I've gone from 4th to 2nd and 5th to 3rd for yonks dude lol. The car has it's 50,000km birthday soon and the gearbox is still fine. If anything it needs new gearbox oil.

Just don't treat your gearbox like a roll of toilet paper and it'll be fine imo lol.

As you should be able too. New boxes are designed with synchro's on all cogs, so the box can shift between any gear any time, as long as the engine rev and the box shaft rev are in safe ranges.

Automobile longevity is completely upto the drivers skill and level of intelligence.

I've experienced this in a few decent power front wheel drives already, when you put in the clutch the main drive shaft in the box is still spinning at 1st gears ratio to the wheels and if you released the clutch while still powering on it spins even faster which produces a shaft rotation way too fast to synch 2nd this is the reason it grinds or just plain old won't let you in.

Double clutching grab's the shaft while in neutral bringing the shaft speed back into normal engine range.

Most likely the gear box and ratio's were designed for more factory spec'ed vehicles but due to the power tolerance they showed they were used in the upper spec machines as well.

Double clutching is simply applying the clutch, shifting out of gear to neutral, release the clutch and while in neutral blip the throttle, apply the clutch again and shift into gear. I learnt to drive in a morris 1100 bush basher around 4km dirt race track in my friends back yard, he had 50 acres and the track looped back and forth around the property. Synchro technology was not what it is today and the box only meshed from 1st to 2nd every other gear was a definite double clutch or you'd break your wrist.

The biggest issue i have with automatic boxes is that power is transferred through fluid and not mechanically. Yes it's good for the less confident driver but fluids can burn and thicken and change they're physical properties which causes the mechanical side of the operation to change.

Crack open an automatic gearbox and it looks like a pasta strainer. Block up one or two holes and a cog will no longer move to a different spot. A low fluid level can negate shifting altogether. My old man's 253 HQ Premier was a laugh for this. It had a slow leak that would after awhile leave you with very little fluid. If the car was sitting on an angle, went up or downhill or round a corner too fast it'd shift into neutral. The gearbox sump would dry up and you'd end up with no drive.

If you have shifting issues first check your fluid level and make sure it looks clean and fresh. If it's dark and murky there may be blockages where the fluid gets caught and cooks into a thick sludge changing the way the box will shift. If it's low check for leaks in the lines between the radiator and the box. hoses do leak on new cars which is the reason for regular servicing.

I was wondering if anyone had a corolla workshop manual around the 95 era that includes the wiring schematics for a 4a-fe engine and scan a few images for me. I've been searching but have only found online versions for $60+.

i'm only after 2 or 3 pages.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I've got the ADM AE101-102 Gregory's manual, it's got pretty much the full body wiring diagrams in it, which parts exactly do you need? And is it an early- or late-model AE101? (and is it ADM too, obviously)

The engine i'm wiring in is originally from a 95 Holden Nova so it's ADM as far as i can tell. I'm mainly after the engine/ignition page/s. It's all going in an AE80 Hatch which had a 2A-C so the original wiring is there i need to know what to cut and paste into the loom.

And i was wondering if the manual has detailed specs for the injectors. I have to setup the megasquirt to run them optimally.

The fuel and ignition page is common for both early and late model ones, and the book covers the Nova too (it's the same car, just different badges), so is it just the injectors/spark stuff that you need? I've got the whole book so I might as well do everything in one go. I'll scan the pages up later this morning and send them to you

And according to the manual, the injectors are 13.8 ohm resistance, 160-200cc/minute flow rate, hope thats what you need

Thanks for the injector info, i'll run them at 200cc to begin with and tune accordingly. Could you include the cooling section of the loom as well? I hadn't realised before but there's 5 different thermo sensors all over the engine, I'm guessing that it's a factory ecu thing, ill only need 2 but i would like to know where they go. I have the new loom as well so i'll be using it to chop and change.

I was wondering if anyone had a corolla workshop manual around the 95 era that includes the wiring schematics for a 4a-fe engine and scan a few images for me. I've been searching but have only found online versions for $60+.

i'm only after 2 or 3 pages.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I've got the ADM AE101-102 Gregory's manual, it's got pretty much the full body wiring diagrams in it, which parts exactly do you need? And is it an early- or late-model AE101? (and is it ADM too, obviously)

The engine i'm wiring in is originally from a 95 Holden Nova so it's ADM as far as i can tell. I'm mainly after the engine/ignition page/s. It's all going in an AE80 Hatch which had a 2A-C so the original wiring is there i need to know what to cut and paste into the loom.

And i was wondering if the manual has detailed specs for the injectors. I have to setup the megasquirt to run them optimally.

I was wondering if anyone had a corolla workshop manual around the 95 era that includes the wiring schematics for a 4a-fe engine and scan a few images for me. I've been searching but have only found online versions for $60+.

i'm only after 2 or 3 pages.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.