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Zr6 supercharged

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Posts posted by Zr6 supercharged

  1. Any idea as the which kit to get for the meth injection ? I have done alot of reading and my head is hurting i have decided to go with the aem set up but not sure which kit exactly and whats the difference between maf / map sensor delivery or boost pressure delivery which is the correct one to go for any ideas?

  2. 4 hours ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

    Yeah I’m looking into snow performance, the sprayer is set after the maf, the water methanol mix can be sprayed directly into the charger or u can install nozzles into each intake runner(a lot more work)I’m not sure about mixing the brew, there’s some already mixed called boostjuice, not sure we’re to buy from locally, there are plenty of mobs that sell straight methanol, probably best to get braided line screw fittings as apposed to the push pull type with plastic pipes, the bottle is for mounting in the engine bay, or u can get larger fuel cells that go in the boot, there’s just more control over the different stage kits which is handy, all kits offer different size nozzles/squirters, it’s all about nozzle size and pump pressure to ensure a fine mist of the mix, 

    How would you hook it up directly to the s/c ? What do you mean by both intake runners ? Wouldnt you just hook it up to the intake pipe like drill a small hole and attatch the nozzle then it sprays the stuff into to intake before going into the s/c? Also that small 1 gallon bottle do you put the liquid in that so what happnens when it runs out do you have to keep filling it up that would be annoying how long is one bottle going to last.

  3. 20 minutes ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

    Cheers for the pics Adam, Aussie speed shop stock a brand called devilsown, this kit appears to offer all the safety required, definitely go 1/1 water methanol mix, not sure how to size the kit devils own have calculators on there website, they claim 10-15% increase, so that’s good considering timing is not retarded, so u get more power than u have as well as being consistent and not detune, $690 + fuel tank, in conclusion I reckon it will be better than an intercooler as it cools the charger as well as the air so on hot days it should be more efficient, cause there are still the limitations of heat soak on the intercooler were as this should be more consistent 

    Have you considered the aem brand or snow performance brand on ebay the have different stage kits not sure which is best. I get the idea of how it works spraying water into the intake is that correct? where would the nozzle go that actually sprays the stuff do you drill a hole in the intake pipe ? If so before or after the maf sensor? And i dont understand what that bottle is for and how it works with that bottle do u fill it up half water half methanol and where do u even get methnol from? Sorry for the silly questions but i just like to know exaxtly how it works so then i can install it myself 

  4. Wow this is freaky i was just looking this up last night and bang now i its been brought up here. I definetly want to go down this path if it avoids having to put a intercooler in apparently ssc has a charge cooled kit but requires another radiator and stuff to be installed then im sure there will be more clearance issues. Do you know if this methanol injection kit will give the same/ or better results as compared to an intercooler ? Whats the coparrison between the 2 ? I spoke to the guy at ssc and he said they can custom make an intsrcooler that sits between tbe blower and manifold but will raise the blower 50mm or even more so the hood will have to be modifed. I think this is again different from their charge cool kit again. Woould be great to gst the same results for the injection kit. I read also that we should only use water not methanol and that will be sufficient to cool the intake alot if doing methanol it requires more work because it is a fuel not just water is that correct? Can you post up a link if you have found the right kit that will work with the aurion i want to jump onto it straight away. Before getting it tuned.

  5. 3 hours ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

    Cool maybe put some shims in between the hinge and bonnet, if there are still issues, is it worth relocating the batery to the boot and running more duct from the fog light to push more clean air in

    Yeh ita possible to do that it could eliminate having to flip the throttle. But tbh not most times ive found that with the lomg i take you loose abit of low end power but could be different on the car if it has the bigger tvs 1900.

  6. 7 hours ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

    good work Adam looks awesome, does the charger still hit the bonnet, that’s been my biggest concern, can u post a pic of the area I cut,

    When i get the chance i will post a pic but i dont think its hitting the bonnet at all now it just clears it prob a few mm. When i first tried to close the bonnet it wouldnt close then i took that liner off and it closed but just and you could feel alot of vibration and noise .. So i had to actually cut off the bars going across the bonnet where it was hitting the supercharger then cut the liner as close as i could put it back on to reduce noise and it seems to just clear it so all is good atm.

  7. 6 hours ago, nzzr6 said:

    Very nice! How much power is she making now?

    Tbh not sure havent got it dynod yet.

     

    As for the price it was bloddy expensive for what gains u get i think but i think once smaller pulley goes on with a e85 tund will be worth it. Cost around $4200 all up with labour and all the little bits and pieces.

  8. UPDATE!! New tvs 1900 supercharger has been installed for almost a week now just havent had time to post it up.

    Let me say it was not an easy job at all and alot there is a fair bit of modification required as  the supercharger hits the bonnet just slightly. The hardest bit of the whole job was to get the manifold off the original supercharger once manifold was off the car. It is held down with allen screws that are very tight and the moment u try to put any kind of allen key on them it just threads the heads. Had to end up drilling them out which took hours to try and not damage the manifold because the angle of which you habe to sit the drill to try and cut away at the screws is just a painnn. Bonnet had to be cut throttle body adaptor on the s/c had to be fliped intake modified and a whole bunch of hoses replaced for longer one. Dont get me wrong the car feels good now some more power there but without a tune yet the car i feel just wants to detune its self. I also ended up installing a boost gauge which im happy about i managed to drill a boost tap into the manifold while it was off the car so wen im pushing it foot to floor gauge is ready 10psi thats with a 90mm pulley i also have an 80mm pulley but will prob install it wen i go to tune it. This was all done at my place mechanic came past and i was helping him with what i could. The new s/c was powder coated black colour i ended up paying some high temp spray paint and sprayed it red its abit patchy now coz some of the paint got scratched off but ill touch it up. surprisingly the colour is very very close to orignal. I also got my hands on an original trd s/c decal wasnt cheap!!! But atleast it will handle the heat.

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    • Like 3
  9. On 10/2/2018 at 6:28 AM, Trd aurion #617 said:

    Gday all, another thing to look at in regards to traction and axle tramp is the engine mounts, due to to the east west configuration of the front wheel drive the natural twist of the engine changes the center line of the drive shafts, changing to neoprene engine mounts stops this twist, which helps getting the power down, trade offs are more vibration through the chassis, but it will be worth it as it’s a lot cheaper than an lsd

    Yeh dont really want to make the car have more vibrations already with the exhaust and mods it doesnt feel as smooth as stop and i dont think it would help anywhere near the same as a lsd would it ?

  10. On 25/09/2018 at 10:10 AM, Trd aurion #617 said:

    gday Adam, any new progress, I changed my y pipe, exhaust and intake, I went with 2&1/4 to 3 inch merge 3 inch all the way to a 3 inch varrex, used ssc intake kit, awesome sound, vsc system check came on,  

    Hey mate yeh abit of progress i got the tvs 1900 superchargee hoping to get it installed this weekend bought it from ssc in artamon so its pretty exciting. Then maybe in the next week or 2 planing to do a flex fuel set up and get it all runing properly. Just not sure whats the cheapest and best options to do to get the extra power down to the ground its kinda useless if its just going to wheel spin all the time u want to be able to actual feel all that extra power otherwise no point. But things just get very expensive fast so thinking either the high s trall torque convertor or the valve body or maybe just going coil overs not sure whats the best bang for buck if someone could give me some advice on that would be great. Congratz on the exhaust did you go dual varex or just single ? Also not sure y ur vsc light came on when i installed my k&n it was all sweet no lights came up maybe try take the battery off for a few mins to reset the ecu ?

  11. 3 hours ago, Squalled said:

    Are you on Facebook at all? There a few Corolla Sportivo pages you could try your luck on.

    No actually im not but i could use a friends fb maybe what are some of the page names if you dont mind me asking i have all trd parts in the engine and i want to keep it all like that at the moment i have the k&n pod filter but i want the trd pod filter i had one on my old corolla sportivo everbody complained it was too big and had issues instslling it but i managed to get it on. Now its the last part missing to complete my engine bay. If anyone has one i will pay for it. And give them a almost brand new k&n filter

  12. 10 hours ago, Trd aurion #617 said:

    Gday the suspension I run is bc coil overs, I have heavier spring rates in the front, can’t remember the number, still looking for the paper work. Wheels are Koya sfo1( basically an enkei rpf1) 7.9 kg for an 18/8, tyres are nito invos, this combo has made the difference for me on stock trd, changing the dampers and the heavier spring rates along with the higher side wall as well as  reducing unsprung weight have helped with straight line acceleration of the line. 

    Tbh with you this info is abit technical for me and im not exactlt sure what half of it means. Let say i leave stock wheels and tyre size and go for bc coil overs will it be able to be adjusted in a way that will give the car better acceleration? Also how hard is it to adjust height for the rears ?

     

    Another thing i want the maximum torque and best take off without having to go for the lsd because it will cost to much and labour ripping out gear box and all. I thought high stall torque converter would help get the power to the groud more. Also mwr have a valve body but it says for 5 speed auto trans is that a mistake on their website or will it work with the 6speed autp that we have. If so that in conjuction with the converter should make a good difference it getting the power down to the ground or would just the valve body be a better option

  13. On 17/09/2018 at 7:24 PM, TRDnz13 said:

    Awesome, thanks for the pulley offer, but like you I will probably go for the TVS1900 instead.

    I have been told that the larger TVS1900 supercharger will push more air at a similar temperature to the 1320. I was recommended not to go to a smaller pulley as it will spin faster and compress more air, but the air will be hotter going into the engine. 

    Sorry I assumed there should be more workshops that can tune Toyotas in Sydney.  I have found one in New Zealand.

    I have had the company below reflash a trd map onto a stock Aurion ECU before. I wanted a backup ECU but it didnt work as the TRD ECU is actually different to an Aurion ECU.

    Advanced Tuning were pretty confident they could reflash my ECU and quoted me $1500NZD, and it would be across 3days. 

    https://www.advancedtuning.co.nz/

    I think alot of workshops just can't be bothered to work on the TRD Aurions ECU.

     

    What kind of results did you get after the trd ecu was reflashed ? Did it make much of a difference?

  14. On 16/09/2018 at 1:06 AM, TRDnz13 said:

    Hi All,

    This is all good and very interesting. I saved the dyno video (right click save link as) and watched it and 210kw is pretty good for the modifications you have done. 

    My TRD Aurion stock standard was 190kw at the wheels, again different dynos and day.

    You mentioned that you changed the pulley to a 2.55inch roughly 64.8mm - I think the stock one is approximately 70-75mm? 

    Did you purchase the Monkey Wrench Racing Pulley? and which workshop in NSW pressed your new pulley on?

    The TVS1900 is the correct supercharger to be bolt on. I have been told that the larger supercharger will compress more air. It is also a better solution than reducing your pulley diameter even further.

    Most workshops can now tune the TRD Aurion ECU's, are you going to run a flex fuel sensor? so you can run E85 and 98ron as well?

    If you are going to run E85 only then I would recommend upgrading your fuel lines as well. 

    One question with your Varex Muffler did you have it completely open when on the dyno? 

    I'am looking forward to seeing your results.

     

     

     

    Hi mate glad liked the video.

    Tbh not to sure what the standard size pulley is but i think around 70mm. The 2.55inch pulley it something i purchased from a company in america called URD they specialise in all kinds of pulleys for supercharger kits mostly trd ones.

    It is a stealth 2.55 inch pulley but the pulley was not made for our supercharger as it is only a 5 rib pulley not and 8 rib like ours. Although it still fits on but it  requires the drive belt to be sliced so taking off a.few ribs. As for prrssing it on i did it all myself they give you like a diy kit which comes with a snout shaving tool and a press tool to get it on but u will have to find a clamp tool yourself that removes pressed on pulleys i bought one from supercheap. I have just removed that pulley and have the belt also that i sliced if you are interested in it i got one custom made that is 2.55 inch but the standard 8 rib which cost me a fortune wish i never did it same results as the 5 rib 2.55 inch and i plan on the bigger supercharger so kind of lost money there. 

     

    As for e85 yes the plan is to have a flex fuel set up.

     

    When you say most workshops can now tune the trd aurion ecu can you name any ? Because i have only found sas performance thst say they can it would be good to be able to shop around.

    As for the varex yes it was fully open and traction control turned off by me and the rest was with the tuner 1st run was 190ish then 208 then 210kw.

  15. On 14/09/2018 at 11:43 AM, Trd aurion #617 said:

    are you still going with the e85 option, 

    Yes that is the plan just waiting to get the tvs 1900 first so it can all be tuned and not have to tune it twice.

     

    On 14/09/2018 at 11:55 AM, Trd aurion #617 said:

    before I did wheel tyre suspension change I was keen to put the lsd in, axle tramp was terrible didn’t mater how smooth the surface was, with heavier springs and adjustable dampening I can dial it out, and set it back to comfort for normal driving. With the right combo the ebd works well for simulating the lsd for straight line acceleration, always got to be cautious with cornering don’t give the front wheels to many tasks, 

    So so what kind of suspension did you go with to help with the straight line acceleration your saying ? Also how much will an upgraded torque convertor really help with getting that power down to the ground?

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