Tmaster100

now thinking of also replace the rear with a basic DLS 6x9.

Don't, they dont fit.

Was it easy enough to pull off the fascia etc to change the stereo? I assume there is no factory cabling for the reverse camera?

I truly sympathise with you. Since joining this forum I have followed your struggle.

I need all i can get. The troubles with the car continue. I emailed Toyota for the 6th time and finally i have a meeting at Toyota's SA Regional Office this Wednesday and i have written a 5 page report about all the problems i have had with the car. I again doubt they will replace the car but i do hope they do, as they should of when all the problems began when it was just 1 week old. Consumer Affairs are also on the case pending the outcome this Wednesday.

Speaking of suspension, does anyone know what the difference between the suspension is in the ZR6 in comparison to the SX6?

I'm pretty certain the suspension is identical between the SX6 and ZR6.

Well done with your purchase and well done to the dealer who sold you the car. It's extremely rare to find any dealer wishing to go the extra mile, they all should when buying a new car of the $$$ value. There is no dealer in Adelaide who would even consider doing the same, they rather take your money and run with it (****holes).

Hopefully your new ride will be trouble free and unlike mine with it more at the dealership then with me getting repairs done to it.

Seems this thread has died?

FWIW after taking the car back to the dealer yet again the problem withthe dash/windscreen is still not fixed. It will be the 15th time in 8 months. Not bad hey?

Do you think you could trace the cutouts on paper and post them. I wouldn't mind at least making the mounts before I pull the doors apart just to reduce the time the car is in peices. Did you trim and further after you cut them out ? Obviously the speaker cutout is dependant on what speakers I use . . . Also - are there any electrical connectors I'd need to buy to match the existing speaker cable connectors or are they just spade connectors to the speakers?

I should be able to trace them on cardboard for you. Im not sure what your asking in response to "Did you trim and further after you cut them out?" In terms of the electrical connectors i simply spliced into the factory leads and attached a small amount of cable supplied with the speakers. This way i can put the factory speakers back in of need be.

I am considering lowering mine however i wonder if the bump stops had to be cut shorter? In terms of replacing the shocks i understand that lowering 50mm is a fair wack so wouldn't one need to refit shocks with less travel to compensate?

You didn't make a template for the pods/speaker mounts did you ?

I still have the mdf with the cutouts in it.. These could be used as a template.

Might be a bit late but the booster is located behind the grey plastic trim which sits between your rear right hand door, rear window and parcel shelf.

The pic is of the front pod, so is it the same as the rears?

Exactley the same.

Whats the dimensions of your POD for the rears BlueSx? my springs are scrapping the rear speaker magnets, whats the limit you can go?

We made 2 spacers, first one 16mm and the other 9mm. The 16mm spacer is the cutout of the original speaker mount and the other is slighter larger then the new speaker and both pieces are glued and screwed together to make a one piece pod. There is also weather strip material on both sides to stop rattles etc and then the entire spacer is sealed in the car.

BlueAurionSX6: you're a legend.. thats a GREAT review... well done...

i'll be looking at upgrading the speakers soonish... so thanks HEAPS.. :)

i was thinking of going a set of focal slims 6.5" splits up the front and then some normal 6x9s in the rear and then a 10/12" sub in the boot with an amp... but maybe i should go your setup and then if the bass isnt enough, i can add the amp/sub later...

what do you think?

If your intention is to put a sub in then you probably should just install the splits up the front otherwise you will need to make new pods again if you aren't happy. But you will also need to sound deaden the inner and outer skin of your front doors with Stinger Roadkill (or similar). You should also high pass the rears at around 120hz to 150hz when you install the sub to avoid cancellation.

Speakers do more of an impact than changing the HU but not speakers,

I have the Eclipses all round running off the Kenwood HU, but I will be getting a 4ch amp to power these as they are getting ripped by the SoloBaric Sub. I like a combination of SPL and SQ thru my cabin speakers so i'll definately looking to push the 6x9's to their rms range

Whats the dimensions of your POD for the rears BlueSx? my springs are scrapping the rear speaker magnets, whats the limit you can go?

I'll make the measurement for you tonight. We did make the pods using two different thickness pieces of MDF, the bottom pod is the shape of the factory unit and the top baffle is mounted to the pod and is the same shape as a 6x9 speaker but slightly larger. Even though it took a while to make (8 cutouts) the end result was an absolute perfect fitment.

We are contemplating making up a swag of the pod kits for members if people don't have woodworking skills or aren't keen doing it themselves.

Perhaps i didn't make myself clear enough (even though i did!)

All these speakers were tested in my Aurion using the stock Head Unit. As mentioned in the post its a reference for speaker upgrades in Aurions, nothing more, nothing less.

Guys,

Just for your information i have done extensive testing with different speakers in both the front and rear of the stock Aurion and thought i would put up my results to anyone looking at upgrading the speakers in the Aurion.

Speakers tested are all 6x9 in size (includes fitting and SQ).

Eclipse SE-8495

DLS Classic - 960

DLS Classic - 269

Hertz - DCX690

Jaycar - CS2378

Alpine - SPE-69C3

Alpine - SPR-69C

Eclipse SE8495 - With pods these speakers fit perfectly in both the front doors and rear parcel shelf. There is plenty of clearance for the boot springs and rear parcel shelf cover. Sound wise they are very bright speakers so you may need to reduce your treble settings. After the run in period they produce plenty of bass notes however they are a little harsh to the ears.

Great for the money or a simple and cost affective speaker upgrade.

DLS Classic 960 - Fantastic built speaker. Fantastic sound. The quality of the treble is amazing and is the best sounding of all in this test. The bass is extremeley well controlled and punchy. These speakers will only fit the front doors as the tweeter/mid assemble stands too high so the rear parcel shelf plastic cover rest on the top and cannot be secured. The magnets are large and as such sit just 2mm away from the boot springs.

Expensive but worth every penny.

DLS Classic 269 - Fantastic built speaker. Good sound. The quality of the treble is good but not as pronounced as the 960's. The bass is also good but lacks the deep punch of the 960's. These speakers will only fit the front doors as the tweeter/mid assemble stands too high so the rear parcel shelf plastic cover rest on the top and cannot be secured. The magnets are large and as such sit just 5mm away from the boot springs.

Excellent speaker and good value.

Hertz - DCX690 - In a word, horrible. These speakers produce sound that is right in your face. So much so i pulled them out faster then i put them in! If your looking for SPL and not SQL these speakers are for you. The good aspect of the speakers is that they fit the front and back with ease. They are very lightweight and have small magnets with orange protection rubbers around it. The basket size is a tad larger then normal 6x9's so be mindful of this.

Very dissapointing. Would not buy.

Jaycar - CS2378 - These speakers produce a tinny treble that is harsh, not smooth as with the DLS units tested. There also seems to be a big hole in the frequency output to which it does not produce in the mid bass area. Whilst the tweeters are adjustable they simply do not adjust enough to warrant this feature. They have large magnets but fit into the front doors easily and just scrape in at the rear.

Reasonable speaker. For the same price much better can be sourced.

Alpine - SPE-69C3 - These are speakers best left back at the shop. The quality of these speakers is not as good as the DLS and the sound mirrors this. If you love the Alpine brand and do not want a amplifier then this is all your going to get. They do fit the front and with the additional work can be made to fir the rear but i advise against these speakers. There isn't a quality sound from them.

Forget it - Buy another brand.

Alpine - SPR-69C - These speakers sound great in both the treble and bass departments but unless your going to run these off an amplifier it's best to leave these at the shop. Size wise they will only fit in the front and by such small margins that any tolerance in the vehicle manufacturing process or your woodwork could render these as unsuitable.

Big speaker, Big price. Amp required.

Conclusion.

I recommend building your own custom pods, adding some Stinger Roadkill (or equivelent), sticking on some sound pads and installing the DLS-960's up front and the Eclipse SE-8495 in the rears. This combination produces a fantastic sound from the front with very crisp treble and vocal quality as well as great bass without distortion. The Eclipse provide good bass in the rear and are a cinch to install. As the tweeter/mid combo are low into the driver itself there is no contact with the parcel shelf cover and no contact equals no rattles.

The above combination of speakers is what i now have in installed in my Aurion and i am very happy with the results. The blend between the front and rear speakers is perfect with the balance control at Zero. In fact the DLS-960s sound so sweet and natural both bass and treble controls are also set at Zero which could not be done with the Eclipse SE-8495's all round. Certainly a recommended combination if your looking at upgrading your OEM speakers anytime soon.

Cheers,

BlueAurionSX6

The auspack-electronics unit doesn't have quite as many features and displays the Toyota Logo with the word "Camry" underneath it when starting DVD's. Great for a Camry but not for an Aurion! The unit from Burgs Designs seems way too expensive for what it is.

I think you might be talking about the clunk noise we all get from the right hand side of the car after taking off. This is a common problem and is apparantly something to do with the ABS or something? Some others have mentioned that this issue is mentioned in the vehicle handbook.

Your also forgetting that most use the Bosch ESP system however the vehicle manufacturer calibrates it. The trouble with Toyota is that haven't spent enough time and money calibrating the ESP (or VSC as it's known) so therefore it receives critcism from many auto magazines and journalists over it's late response time when it's needed most. It could be enough to kill you or will Toyota wait until this happens before they rectify this shortfall? Probably so.....

I wouldn't touch gas either. For the savings offered in ongoing fuel costs compared to the upfront cost, premature valve seal wear, higher maintenance (services) and the lower power output it simply is uneconomical to consider this option. Seriously, how many litres of unleaded fuel would you be able to buy to offset the cost of the gas installation? It would probably take 2 or more years to pay the investment back and during this time you would of emptied your wallet even more for the additional cost to service the car. Just not worth it in my opinion unless your a courier or taxi.

Nice buy. At least one would hope it's been back to the dealer numerous times to have warranty issues sorted out before you got the keys.

Has anyone taken their Aurion to a skidpan to test out the VSC? Only recently rumours i have been hearing is that the VSC is crap on the Aurions, in fact it's crap across the entire Toyota range of vehicles with it fitted. Fancy the worlds richest automotive car maker can't even develop a decent VSC system. What hope do we have??

Whilst it's worth noting i also find the Traction Control to be crap. I am able to spin the front wheel half way around a roundabout before it kicks in yet when it's wet it can't wait to drop the power to the wheel(s). All other cars that i have had with Traction Control stop the wheels from slipping fast, no matter the conditions. I guess being able to spin the front wheels is a godsend afterall ???

Its good to hear that Peter Kittle Toyota are going that extra mile. Pity the other Toymotor dealers in Adelaide dont follow suit.

Funny.. Beleive it or not my car goes back for the 14th time (in 6 months) this Wednesday.

The dash has been pulled out three (3) times and they still can't fix it. Last time they lost 2 white clips on the tweeter covers and stuffed the left hand side airbag cover.

Now the drivers door has dropped too. Fark, these cars are just s-h-i-t heaps.

I have a zr6 iam planning to upgrade my speakers to could you please post or pm me if possible more detailed intructions on to remove the door panels and back parcel shelf thanks

Might pay to tell us where you are and perhaps a member can help you, otherwise it will be like writing a novel.