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CME-LFT

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Posts posted by CME-LFT

  1. yeah, it could be mistaken for a rav.lmao it would be lowered by now but i cant save, instead of saving to $1000 or wateva to get springs. ill reach $200 and think what can i buy for it RIGHT NOW.lol

  2. Deff street car with a bit of poke, im trying to get it classy yet sporty without being over the top. U know, u get looks but not attract police attention sorta thing.

    Yeh, forgot to add brake calipers to the list, will do now.lol

  3. Hi guys, been on the forum a little while now, just thought id show you what ive done to my car with the help of this forum. The ideas are endless.

    Atm its got

    17inch lenso apex 5 (i think, i got them with the car)

    whiteline front strut

    eyelids

    Liverpool exhaust CAI

    Red console mod

    Painted engine cover(rice factor)

    Red wipe blades (rice factor again.lol)

    Sound System (well, bass anyway atm.)

    Soon to go in

    Whiteline rear sway bar

    Future plans

    Springs and shocks (king lows)

    Rear brake light mod

    Cat back

    Headers

    Red Calipers

    post-6799-1216643458_thumb.jpg

  4. Rattling type noise is also worse when your car is cold and you have the A/C switched on.

    As for gear selector cables rattling there is a solution and it's a relatively easy fix. If you have warranty left toyota will cover it or else you just need to stop them from hitting on the heat shield of the exhaust manifold.

    Ey guys, thanks for all your info. Ummm.... in regards to stopping the cables from hitting the heat shield, is it something i can see/do by just looking under the car or into the bonnet? I roughly remember reading something about using cable ties??? Whats the heat shield look like, is it near the headers or hidden away somewhere in the back where its a pain in the butt. :S My warranty has run out.

    If anyone could please take photos or point me towards the right topic i would trully apreciate it.

    Thank you

  5. Hi guys, ive had my 04 stivo since the begining of this year. anwyay it makes a few weird noises, one which i think is the gear selector cables which i learnt after browsing this forum. It sounds like rattling from under the car and cames and goes. If it is that, i have come to learn that there is no real solution for this...true?

    2nd is, my gf keeps saying my car sounds like a diesel motor cause when its at low revs it makes (like take off at too low a rev, not to the point where its goings to stall but at about 1500-2000k).....well.....diesel sounding noise. Do all stivos sorta sound like this? Had this since i got it and all was stock.

    The car has perfect service records every 10thous and the was in perfect nick when i got it. Theres nothing wrong with it, and it runs fine, but my missus is starting to bug me.lol

    Any ideas or thoughts?

  6. They are some 18inch lenso multistud. I still dont fully understand offset but the rim it close to the outer rubber edge of the wheel. Its not deep dish or anything.

    From what you have explained, are you saying the multi fit rims can fit different 4 stud car with different spacing? or are multi fit rim just for either 4 or 5 stud and come with preset spacings for different cars?

    Hopefully i made sense :huh:

  7. So pretty much, im going to have to put a splitter box at the back. :(

    Ah well. thanks anyway guys.

    Looks like ill go and upgrade the power wire again, seeing as the mono has 3x30 amp fuses and the 2channel has 1x 30 amp fuse (total 120 amps) and the 4 guage i have atm only handles 110 amps, plus the fact that if i brought that through to a splitter box, i have to then split each amplifier into 8 guage which is rated even less.

    Does this sound right so far or wont the amps really reach their max current draw and im just being paranoid? The manual for the big mono block recommends to use 4 guage for it alone.

  8. I know thats the most obvious and probly the easiest option, its just i dont want too much junk(splitter boxs, and fuses) all screwed into the back seat.

    Just another thought which i didnt think about, where am i going to screw the ground if i install the amp under the seat?

  9. High guys, i got my first amp installed at an audio shop and they ran 4awg through the firewall in an empty hole/grommit, now i wanted to put a 2nd amp in under the passenger seat but theres no more holes left ( or i cant see them at least) Any ideas?

    As i dont feel like splicing a new line from the 1st amps supply in the boot and running back, i was curious as if anyone has any ideas/method or if they ended up puttin the 2nd amp in the back??

    Maybe i could drill a small hole in the firewall............. :whistling: ............................... :unsure: ................. :help:

  10. How ya going mate.

    I got my HU installed in the top din due to me having to flip the screen down to take it out, if it was at the bottom it probly would end up hitting the centre console part area. (plus it looks neater at the top, my thoughts anyway)

    To keep it hidden and a little neater, instead of bringing it out through the din space underneath, get one of those usb 2.0 extention leads(about $10 at dik smith), join onto the HU usb and bring it out through the glove box, thats what i did anyway.

    Heaps of places do it, look up you nearest autobahn, strathfield car radios theres bound to be a place near you. Usually its about $60 for a HU swap over + the toyota spacers on the side and the bottom din space holder peice.

  11. Hey thanks for that, but im still a lil confused.

    From you explanation are you saying that if you were to install an amp rear/front splits that you would run speaker wire all the way to the doors instead of going to the head unit and using the factory harness wiring that runs to the doors already? (it must be a pain to do neatly)

    Also, u say 2mm, how can i work that out, everything i look at is like 24/0.2mm,......or 2x79/0.2mm

    Now i know that 24(no, of strands) 0.2 (thickness of each strand) but if i multiply them i get 4.8? it that nearly 5 mill? (my maths isnt the best atm.lol)

    Also, you reckon you could use house cable? cause i got a ton of 2.5 mm2 twin lying around.lol

  12. Hi guys, i was thinking of putting the front two speakers in my sportivo to run off an amp.

    I took the door trim off and the factory wiring looks small that goes to the speakers, so my thoughts where that i was going to run the speaker cable from the amp in the boot to behind the head unit and join the cable into the originals going to the speakers (not bringing the cable all the way to each door.)

    My question is, what size cable should i buy seeing as the factory wiring is pretty slim already. Jaycar happen to be selling a 30m roll of (so called heavy duty) speaker cable which is 18AWG 24/0.20mm, they state that its suited for systems above 150watts. (to what its limit is, is unknown)

    Im running 6.5/6 inch sony in the front 200wat peak, 75wat rms and the amp in the back is a 2 channel 300 wat rms amp i think. (obviously i wont put it over the top and end up blowing my speakers.lol)

    Will this size cable suffice? or should i go bigger. My thoughts where also that it should be neater to join into behind the head unit seeing as the 18awg is not such a thick cable.

    What size cable have most of you guys run for you front splits to the amp and any suggestions on install would be helpful

    Thanks guys :)

    P.s i tried searching already.

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