jade

I had a problem with my MAF sensor and the car would just cut out... It got to the point, when the car died the only way to get it home was to unplug the MAF sensor... WHEN THE MAF SENSOR IS UNPLUGGED YOU CANT REV THE CAR PAST ABOUT 2500 - 3000RPM. I would suggest checking the plug that goes onto your sensor... Perhaps its not the cleaning of the sensor that is fixing the problem it is the unplugging and replugging of the sensor before and after cleaning ;)

hi there any MTA mechanical workshop can service your car for its factory warranty.... its cheaper that way and most of the time if you ask them to, they are more than happy to use the genuine toyota parts.... you will find most decent mechanics use the genuine stuff anyway on newer cars.. ;)

the supercharging or turbo'ing option is a nice idea... and would be hell fun to drive. but this car is my daily driver and we are already modding the crap out of an xr6t.... i like the idea of na, and so does my insurance company ;) also, i am looking at doing the engine rebuild for about $2500 (my partner is a mechanic and we have contacts for the machining etc) the charger kit would cost more than that alone... thanks for your contributions guys, keep em coming.... have got lots of ideas from the sites that you have suggested so far

Hey all, some of you might remember that i bent a conrod in the June floods.... i replaced the engine and the car was back on the road within a week. now i have been thinking about building up the old engine and making it a nice quick na motor. Only one problem, i cant get rods other than standard ones.... i am looking at bumping up the compression and extending the rev range to about 7500rpm. obviously i will be looking at a rebuild... including: boring out the block 10 - 15 thou rods (forged etc) pistons cams aftermarket ecu (if i can get away without one i will be happy) machining of exhaust ports can anyone give me some help with sourcing some of these items. i would be most appreciative. Jade

ok... take some advice from someone that has been battling the maf sensor problem for months..... replace it! I have been putting up with the car just stopping randomly for months, and finally the other day it stopped and wouldnt go again... so its time for a new sensor.... luckily my other half is a mechanic and can get an after market one for about $250.00 so that is going into the car today. Be aware that its from the oil on the pod getting on the sensor and the oil heating up and "cooking" the sensor. I have been cleaning my sensor with electrical contact cleaner every time it plays up and it usually is good for another couple of months.... but the sensor is dead now and the car will only run with the sensor unplugged.... ( i only have to drive 3km's to work) :) i was beginning to think that my car was cursed and the random stopping thing was just the universe messing with me :P

The engine came as a short engine and we put all my manifolds and throttle body on (and its not DBW).... and all my engine accessories (alternator, power steering, a/c etc). It just feels like it has less power.... i dont know what it is.... i have taken the car to toyota to have the ecu codes pulled out and there are none.... my other half was the mechanic who fitted the engine and we were wondering if the cams are different..... we are using the injectors and coil packs that came on the new engine.... thinking of changing them over to see if it makes a difference.... i think he said that the injectors are a different colour to my original ones..... something to consider.... thanks you for your help so far guys..... any more help would be greatly appreciated Jade

Hey all.. as some of you know, i recently replaced my original engine as it sucked up some water and bent a rod or two.... i replaced it with a 2005 model 1zz.... i realise that they produce a lesser amount of power, but is it the tune on the ecu that is different or is there something else with the engine that is different.... its in the car and running nicely, (with my ecu and wiring harness) but it just doesnt seem to have the snappyness that my old engine had..... and before you all say it might have more km's than my old one, my original engine had 155,000 on it, compared to the 25,000 my new one has.... hoping you can help me out... Jade

or if you have a 1zz you bend rods.....

Thought you all might like to have a look at what they didnt show you on the news.....

I read that thread title and was sure someone was taking the ***** out of me.... those of you who know me know i am from newcastle..... and yes, lolla didnt fair all that well in our recent floods. Truthfully... my cai sucked up some water, hydo locked the engine and i bent 2 rods :( they say there is a silver lining in every cloud..... i am beginning to believe them, my engine had 155,000kms on it and i have just put in another one with 25,000. she runs like a dream and it all came in at less that what the insurance company wanted for excess (there was no other water damage, so they would have just stuck another engine in anyway). In all honesty, i was stuck in the CBD of newcastle and had no way to get out and get home, so i took a risk and drove through a rather large and long puddle.... we made it a metre from the end of the puddle and *cough* she died. I will add that i had been working in Singleton that day and if any of you have seen singo on the news, you know that they had major flooding. i drove home from singleton to my place (about an hour drive) with the little black plastic thing in my front bar that goes where the foggies are.... i had no probs.... i obvioulsy had water coming into the front bar and straight onto the pod and didnt have a drama.... My new engine is in, and despite the past week and all the hassles, my cai is already on my new engine.... lets face it guys, its a corolla its not designed to go through puddles that deep.... even with a standard air box..... so unless you are going to be a goose and drive through flood water that is about a foot deep, i would say, sure, i dont think you will have any probs with a cai ;)

the model car you have posted pics of is infact a 1zz.... they have a timing chain... and you cant see it cos its behind the timing case... the belt you have posted pics of is your fan and other accessory belt.... also called a serpentine belt ;) timing chains do not need to be changed unless they are stretched and the timing has jumped.... or one of the tensioners becomes loose and the chain becomes noisy

i am hoping to be there.... although its a long hike from newcastle.... i will confirm as the weekend nears.... ;)

hey.... i have the exedy heavy duty and i think its tops.... it manages to chirp 18's into 3rd regularly ;) you will have to have to fly wheel machined and thats probably included in the price... i would recommend getting the exedy heavy duty.... and that price you were quoted seems pretty decent.... you could probably get it cheaper if you shop around... ;)

do you know of anywhere in NSW that does tuning on the camcon using this method.... i suspect this is the reason that i gained **** all with it tuned....

is this group buy still going ahead.... i have been saving my xmas money and its burning a hole in pocket :P