the_random_hero

Despite what others think (that you need to completely submerge the filter to suck up water) there is always the chance that you can be unlucky enough to suck in water from a rather large puddle. When driving down a road in heavy rain if visibility is bad, accidentally running through a a large puddle of water that manages to splash enough water to your intake to soak it can lead to issues. Of course the chances of these aren't really high... especially if you have a decent splash guard, but the possibility is still there.

It doesn't take much water to blow your engine.

I don't know if you have seen where my pod filter sits, but it's sitting above a splash guard about fifteen cm off the ground. I have ran through many puddles (accidentally) up to around 10cm deep and never had a single problem. The way I see it is any splash is going to stop on the filter media, then get sucked through into the intake piping as fine spray - which is basically just water injection.

Contrary to popular belief, it takes a ****LOAD of water to do any damage to your engine. I have 3" piping about 60cm long, I would have to have the filter submerged for quite some time to allow the engine to fill the whole intake with water (if it only 1/4 fills then sucks in air, the air will rise through the water and break the hydro lock, so the water will just drain out of the filter).

For those dollars, don't waste your money. Decent springs + adjustable shock will crap all over cheap coilovers.

Joined, and added a photo of my AW11 + a group shot I got of a cruise we did a while ago.

Oh no! Unfortunately I won't be able to come to this, but definitely will see you Friday night.

Not sure of the full range they do, I just saw them advertised and did a little more research as I've always used the traditional boot kits. http://www.toyota.com.au/parts-and-service.../spill-boot-kit

That's about the smartest product I've seen on the market since somebody started doing oil filters with a nut welded onto the top.

toyota do split-boot kits now that you can install without having to remove the shaft. Only take about 30 minutes to fit.

Just for ZZE/ZRE? They could really come in handy, left front on my Mrs' ST184 is about to cark it.

Read the thread, it was a joke.

TM, TRD Badge on rear of car good for 1.5 seconds, that's the mod you missed obviously.

(And that was a joke as well)

whitestivo

There i was thinking a TRD badge was worth 2.5 seconds!

Thirteen killerwasps at the flywheel, I heard.

Dave - best sushi I've ever had. Everything is prepared after you order, and they have a ****load to choose from.

List of names:

1. the_random_hero +1

2. Supercharged_TRD +1

3. DJKOR

4. whitestivo

Your chances of getting it on the road now are pretty slim to none, regardless of importation laws. Part it out, you might break even/profit.

Hey dudes, was thinking I wouldn't mind a trip to Oishii next week - say Friday night? I'd have to make a booking as it's normally stupidly busy, so would need numbers by Wednesday or so. If you haven't been there, it's the best freaking sushi I've ever had, sort of pricey (ie. budget $20 per person at least) but definitely worth it.

It's located along Mains Road in Sunnybank, next to the 7/11. I can get an actual address if people are unsure.

Let me know what you guys think.

Not on a Corolla, but on my Paseo a big end died within a month of me owning the car. Cost me 1/3 the price of the car to get a new engine/full service and if I could go back I would do it all again - car hasn't missed a single beat since spending the money, and I am sure it won't for a lot longer than I'm going to own it for.

thats a pretty good result man.. if i were you, i'd be happy with the outcome... :)

sorry if i missed it, but what was the cost of it?

i'm sure a few people out here would be interested in buying one if the exhaust shop made a few... :)

either way, congrats on being the first one (that we know of) in oz to successfully do this mod... a lot of people have wanted to do it, but no one has stepped up... :D

I think the ballpark figure we gave Daryl was $300.

Ralliart Lancers are a waste of time. You don't give a car a turbo and then slap skinny tyres on it and call it a performance car.

I've found Ralliarts that can't even keep up with a modded ES Lancer.

15+ down the quarter mile ;) A customer was bragging he had one of the quickest stock ones in QLD (bull**** or not I don't know) and he ran a 15.1 in street trim, street tyres, etc.

Still pretty pathetic, it's even worse than just a CC Lancer with an Evo kit as you've actually paid stupid amounts of money to be an imposter.

EDIT: Probably won't be able to make it to this, have some things to do up the coast. It involves a new car that I just have bought :)

sorry to revive this topic. Should i use this TRD muffler from my 20v AE111 to my 1zz corolla (auto), do you think i will suffer some low end loss? It does have 60mm inlet. I wont be using the entire pipping but just the muffler only

It's just a muffler, if it can be made to fit then use it. 60mm is what, 2 3/8"? It will probably be a bit loudish.

i refuse to go to limes hotel anymore... the owner is a piece of sh!t...

a mate of mine used to work there as the manager...

Spent a great deal of time chatting to one of the security blokes, he was an awesome dude.

Mick - I walked past the Globe a few times, actually was wondering if I knew anybody there as it seemed like my normal sort of crowd :P

Ah dudes, shoulda gotten back to me on Facebook! It was a really awesome weekend, had a lot of fun and Limes Hotel is a great place for drinks with mates.

That's how every single alarm/immobiliser is setup.

Off topic, the Aurion allows you to lock with the remote then unlock the drivers door with the key manually and the alarm will not go off. When I first tried this out, I was actually expecting the alarm to go off cause most cars I've dealt with in the past work that way.

Sorry, should have been more clear - aftermarket immobilisers.

Daryl - they won't be strictly 'tuned' length from factory, have you actually done any measuring? As soon as you hit the cat, that's the end of the tuned bit.

I definitely wouldn't recommend a full twin setup, from experience you're a lot better with a good single setup then splitting at the rear.

i got an alarm that uses my factory key,

PROBLEM IS you have to use the remote to unlock, if you use the key the alarm thinks you are a screwdriver opening the drivers door...

That's how every single alarm/immobiliser is setup.

Any moron with half a brain who is trying to steal your car can bypass a killswitch in about a minute. Honestly, if it's your only safety device then don't bother - even if they can't steal it they'll just take all the good bits out of it and wreck the rest.

I wouldn't recommend anything below an ADR approved (black wiring, 3 point immobiliser) alarm/immobiliser pack, basic ones (ie. I have a Mongoose M40) will cost you less than $500 fitted. I believe upgrade packs are considerably cheaper than that and will use your factory key.

For that price your better off grabbing a decent universal muffler and getting custom piping. Magnaflow or something like that.

If it was a catback it would be a different story...

Some of these quotes are much higher than a catback and a highflow cat, or even a catback with Magnaflow bits.....

Accurate Suspension at Woodridge can corner balance.

http://www.hotfrog.com.au/Companies/Accura...ension-Services

You'll find most suspension/alignment shops won't have scales as 99.999% of people don't even know about corner balancing.

Wouldn't bother going anywhere else for good suspension setups in QLD, they are really nice guys and definitely know their stuff.

Hey, can I ask you a question?

(Sure)

On a scale of one to ten, can I have your phone number?

Well, change of plans. Completely got over fixing rust, I'm just going to save and pay somebody to remove it. My brothers partners dad knows a really good bloke not too far from here who is apparently stupid cheap and does everything old school - all new metal, no bog, shapes everything by hand, etc.

I've basically finished the extractors, they turned out pretty damn well (if I do say so myself). They are identical in measurements to the HKS set (last set I saw selling was for $1000, and won't actually fit my car without light modifying). I've started building the muffler I'm going to run - a 600mm barrel with twin 1.75" perforated tube and combination stainless/fibreglass packing. I chose the twin internals as it means I can get twice the amount of muffling in without losing any flow whatsoever - so should be really quiet. I'm hoping to have that finished by the weekend so I can fabricate the rest of the system (custom cat made out of a cat insert, mandrel bent 2.25" stainless tubing).

It has arrived...

First it is a 20 year old car so I wasn't expecting much. But it is ok for the money spent on it.

Questions.

1. The power antenna is that shared with any other Toyota's? Someone decided they didn't like the installed one and snapped it off.

2. The steering column cover again is this part shared with any other Toyota.

It needs a wheel alignment the steering feels a bit dead.

The engine feels nice and strong

The clutch travel is a bit short... But if you get the peddle down properly the gearbox shifts nicely

The aircon is nice and cold.

For its age it has fair wear and tear on the body and wheels... Might be time to get the compressor and spray guns out again.

It needs a new steering wheel the outer section has dis-bonded from the steel inner.

I need to find some trim clips hopefully common to other Toyota's.

Clips are common, unfortunately not much else is. If you're lucky you might be able to find a replacement mast that is similar to what is in there now (Toyota mainly use 5 or so different mast sizes, but there are some exceptions).

You can buy a steering reco kit - rod ends, bushes, etc. Definitely look into it as I can guarantee that the bushes are probably shot.

spacers are uber ghey super ****house , if you want to run them safely ( Touch Wood ) you would be stupid not to run longer nuts. As the_random_hero states why not just run the correct size and offset , if you want to fill the gaurds but a wheel that will do so... this picture of my AE82 will do the talking:

Having wheels way in from the guards is much more "uber ghey super ****house" than having spacers.

Longer studs LOL. Obviously i'm talking about bolt-on spacers, not slip-on spacers. They bolt on to the factory studs and have their own studs for the wheels to bolt on to.

If worried about insurance, they are perfectly legal IF:

- they are hub centric (they fit snugly over the factory hub centre and the wheel fits snugly over the spacer hub centre)

- they technically have to be glued on apparently. Dunno why. I guess so u can't tamper with them easily.

And u need to tell them about the spacers then it's def no problem.

Unless other states are different, then spacers are NOT legal.

The fitting of spacers or adaptors between wheels and

hubs, additional to those provided by the vehicle

manufacturer, is not permitted. The tyre and rim must

not foul wheel arches or suspension components under

any conditions. Steering limit stops must not be adjusted

to reduce the turning circle in order to allow the fitting

of the alternative rims and tyres.

Don't run a bottle of octane booster ;) It's not as good as everybody talks it up to be - I've seen it fuxor cats, O2 sensors, etc.