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capacitors and custom boot install


rollaboy1990

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Hey,

I'm doing a custom boot install in my zre corolla. (progress can be found in my signature below)

Fibreglass is great if you like mess and the smell for a few weeks / months. I prefer mdf. Yes it's heavy, but I not going for a performance car, more cruiser :)

As suggested, a optima yellow top would be a sound investment as well a good capacitor. 1 or 2 fared would be ok

FYI, I'm near parramatta, so if you need a hand or want tips, just drop us a line.

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hi i'm running 3 amplifiers just wondering if i need a capacitior?

if so how many and what farad?

and if any one knows how to do custom boot install useing fiberglass i'm interested.

penrith (sydney)

platnum car audio is down in penrith now they do good work

sean

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DO THE BIG 3 ! ! ! !

1. Upgrade your battery (Optima)

2. Bigger Alternator wire (4 gauge max. for your car)

3. Bigger Grounding from battery to ground in the engine bay

and if you want capacitor, depending on how many total watts your producing on the amps, if you amps for the subs is 1,000 watts RMS, and the other 2 amp is for speaker, it should be under 2,000 watts total, so a 2 farad should be fine... I used to have a 2 farad capacitor on my car with a 3,000 watts RMS sub amp, the caps cant cope with it, so when you hear music, its volume sometime decreases and increases again commonly...

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  • 2 weeks later...

As suggested, upgrading your battery is definately highly recommended if you're running any sort of high power. ATM I'm running a single 800W (peak) amp off my stock battery no worries, and in my old car I was running 2 of those off a smaller, not as good battery, and have no fear of problems running them bothing again in this one when I get round to it.

According to all the pro car audio places I've spoken to in the past, they all recommend a 1F cap for every 1000W RMS.

As for your install, I have to both agree and disagree with Pete. MDF is great. Except for 2 things. 1 - Its weak, so its a ***** to screw into/close to edges. and 2 - being that its made from, well, mostly wood, its not particulary easy to mould to the contours of your boot. If you want it to fit the contours you have to measure and cut to suit every little edge and corner and somehow pin it together solidly enough to not fall apart when your sub is thumping away in there, and even then its only gonna be an 80% fit. (Trust me, I've done it, and its fiddly as hell and makes you want to attack old ladies :o). If you're only looking for a simpler, non- (or less-) fitted solution, MDF is tops. I'm using a part MDF and part fibreglass in my current install.

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As suggested, upgrading your battery is definately highly recommended if you're running any sort of high power. ATM I'm running a single 800W (peak) amp off my stock battery no worries, and in my old car I was running 2 of those off a smaller, not as good battery, and have no fear of problems running them bothing again in this one when I get round to it.

According to all the pro car audio places I've spoken to in the past, they all recommend a 1F cap for every 1000W RMS.

As for your install, I have to both agree and disagree with Pete. MDF is great. Except for 2 things. 1 - Its weak, so its a ***** to screw into/close to edges. and 2 - being that its made from, well, mostly wood, its not particulary easy to mould to the contours of your boot. If you want it to fit the contours you have to measure and cut to suit every little edge and corner and somehow pin it together solidly enough to not fall apart when your sub is thumping away in there, and even then its only gonna be an 80% fit. (Trust me, I've done it, and its fiddly as hell and makes you want to attack old ladies :o). If you're only looking for a simpler, non- (or less-) fitted solution, MDF is tops. I'm using a part MDF and part fibreglass in my current install.

If we all have the money... Ill go with Cherry Wood... Would be a dream for me and my 2 DD 9515 subs... someday i suppose...

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