Regular Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


campbeam last won the day on July 13

campbeam had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

131 Brilliant Reputation

1 Follower

About campbeam

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
  • How did you find us?
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive

Contact Methods

  • First Name

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have fitted GE Megalight Ultra +130 H11 headlight bulbs and been using them for about 6 months, maybe longer. At first, they did not appear to be that much brighter but after about 2 weeks I thought that they were brighter. What I did notice was the increased light projection distance. Very noticable improvement when on high beam. If I had to replace my headlight bulbs, I would also be considering the OSRAM Night Breaker Unlimited H11 headlight bulbs which also come with a 12mth warranty. Something else that I have been reading up on is how restoring the headlight lenses results in more light on the road. It is on my to do list.
  2. Following YouTube video shows how to use the spill free funnel. I do not have one so I just used an ordinary funnel to fill the radiator until the coolant covered the radiator fins then just gently squeezed the radiator hoses a few times to air bleed the cooling system. I then fully filled the radiator, replaced the cap and then slighly overfilled the coolant overflow bottle. I then started the engine and checked that all appeared to be ok before driving as normal. Later, check the coolant level in the overflow bottle and top up, if required There is an air bleed port on the engine but I left it alone due to past experience of breaking one off on another vehicle.
  3. Have a read of the following URLs:
  4. Milo, it appears that you really want to make the effort to fully flush the cooling system so that all of the old coolant is replaced. As you have already mentioned, flushing the system a few times with distilled water would be an effective option. I would then go for a concentrated coolant making your own mixture also taking into account the amount of distilled water remaining in the cooling system. I use the Penrite concentrate which I previously bought on special. Something I have done for the last few years has been to remove the coolant overflow bottle and give it a good clean inside, annually. The coolant in the bottle was disposed of and replaced with a new mixture. I have recently drained the radiator as part of the process to replace the alternator, so it will be a while before I consider whether the overflow bottle needs a cleaning.
  5. Have a read of the following URLs:
  6. Possibly warmer weather and use of silicone spray will reduce the risk as well as the usual softly softly approach.
  7. Hopedfully, you have a manual with the steps for the dash removal. Following URLs will give you an idea of the work invilved. Easiest outcome would be if there are retaining screws just need to be retightened and the dash repositioned. One can only hope until reality happens.
  8. If you want to tweak tyre sizes, following is a handy calculator.
  9. My first thought is that the weather may have gotten colder in the last month. Just something to consider. Assuming that your vehicle has done less than 100,000Kms, I would expect that the spark plugs and coil packs are fine. . I use 91 unleaded petrol. I have also been putting fuel injector cleaner in the petrol tank but not recently. Probably better off using 95 octane or 98 octane petrol. I refuel usually around the 1/2 full mark and well before the 1/4 full mark. Just reckon [or is that unfounded wishful thinking] that it helps the fuel pump and filter with the fuel delivery. You also mentioned the oil light flashing on and off. I would be inclined to check the oil level and also consider whether an oil and filter cartridge change is due. Something to remember is that the 2GR-FE engine is more prone to oil sludging than some other modern engines. Use of quality engine oils and regular servicing is essential. Most of my driving is short distance urban so my engine is operating in prime time conditions for oil sludging. Consequently, I am doing oil and filter cartridge changes about every 2 months.
  10. Best to properly diagnose the issue before throwing parts and time and effort at it. Some YouTube videos will show how to release the tension on the serpentine belt. From there you can check out the amount of movement [if any] in the tensioner assembly and the pulley. YouTube videos will show how to repack a sealed bearing. I used Castrol LMM grease to repack both of the idler pulleys for the serpentine belt when I was replacing the alternator. If badly worn, the pulley will need to be replaced. Possible worst case scenario is that tensioner assembly will need to be replaced.
  11. Plenty of different opinions in the following thread. Most important thing to notice is that only well known quality brands are being mentioned. My personal criteria is for a touring tyre with excellent braking performance in the wet. Never be tempted to put budget priced tyres on your vehicle.
  12. Following YouTube video URL may be applicable. I have just looked at the opening and some of the comments. Hope this is of some assistance.
  13. Time to share my latest experience and learnings. I have a standby replacement vehicle 2008 Aurion Prodigy sitting in the back yard. Some weeks ago, It threw the P0328 error code and I suspected that a rodent could have been nesting in the valley of the engine. Posts on the US Toyota Nation forum indicates that this is an often occurence of the wires being eaten by rodents/pests. I did think that it might be a good idea to dismantle first before buying parts but did not do it. I was hoping that it was only the sensor gone bad so bought replacement [non-genuine] sensors before dismantling the engine. Only way to get to the sensors on the Aurion engine is to remove the lower intake manifold. I also took extra care and attention using rags to block off intake ports so nothing dropped down into the piston combustion chambers. Also used grease on the end of the allen key when removing the bolts to save time finding a dropped bolt. Finally discovered that both wires on one sensor were broken off plus chewing and the wiring on the other knock sensor had also been chewed. Next step was to remove the wiring harness and check the part number tag, These knock sensor connectors are not easy to get off. Ended up using a screwdriver to push the locking tab into the removal/open position and another screwdriver to lever the connector off the sensor. Next setback was that the wiring harness part number tag was faded and illegible. I found the Rock Auto website to be more user friendly than Amayama website catalog to locate the correct part numbers 82219-06010 and 82219-41010. Part ordered on the Amayama website and awaiting approval with delivery in about 2 weeks. The re-assembly fun can then begin. At this stage I am inclined to leave the original knock sensors and just replace the wiring harness. Interesting the amount of oil residue in the manifold and on the stems of the fuel injectors. Another learning is that the metal gasket edges are knife like sharp so a bit of blood and some verbal blessings over the manifold has been added to the DIY experience. Not wearing gloves has benefits and also costs. Biggest learning is that I should have taken more preventative actions to keep the rodents away.
  14. A while ago, I bought a C-TEK charger [Repco Special] and have been using it to charge and rejuvenate a number of batteries. I was going to delay buying a new battery but AutoBarn put out a 2 day deal 30% off Century Batteries ending today 22nd June. My existing Century Battery model 75D23L MF [CCA 620] is still going strong after more than 2 years. Ended up buying the Century Battery model NS70L NF [CCA 660 and RF 140] @ $160.30 which fitted into the battery tray easily.