campbeam

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campbeam last won the day on March 19

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About campbeam

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Aurion
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Queensland
  • How did you find us?
    Google
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive

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  • First Name
    Ashley

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  1. Have you read those URLs that I have provided? Read them and you will have some action items that will not cost much except some time and effort.
  2. Have a read of this URL https://www.fixya.com/cars/t16075049-code_c1201_engine_control_system https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/Brake Control/Vehicle Stability Control System/0280018.pdf This next URL explains how you got that error code. Previous URL mentions dosconnecting the battery to reset the ECM or ECU. https://www.purefjcruiser.com/docs/2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Repair Manual/Brake Control/Vehicle Stability Control System/0280018.pdf
  3. I recall reading that ambient factory temperature is 20C. I did look for the fluid co-efficient of expansion and calculated that 6570ml expands by 490ml with a 80C difference. Agree.
  4. Just gave the girlfriend's '06 Yaris YRS a bit of a service last Sunday. Cleaned the MAF sensor, the throttle body and the air filter. Al appeared to be ok but the vehicle started running very roughly and threw up a CEL. Scan tool showed a P0172 code which I have since cleared. Yaris was idly very roughly and would not rev, just coughing and spluttering. Initial thoughts was that I had stuffed up the MAF sensor and possibly the spark plugs need replacing. Next thought is that the air filter and the ignition coils need to be replaced. I have ordered MAF sensor, plugs and air filters via eBay. Another suspect is a vacum line which could do with a clamp. After cleaning the MAF sensor again and giving the Yaris a few test drives around the block, it is drivable but could idle more smoothly. I will give an update in a few weeks time.
  5. My experience is that the Aurion is a great Highway cruiser. Able to run all day and when you need to overtake, there is plenty of power for a quick overtaking manouvre then back to leisurely cruising. I know that I have a V6 with 200kw of power and have nothing to prove. In my book, winning is all about getting safely from point A to B. Losing is a broken down or wrecked car. Prefer to leave that to the Holden and Ford boys playing with their toys. Also a low profile means no police attention and those involuntary offers to contribute to the Govt coffers.
  6. Surprised that it is only $1000. Presumably that is on an exchange basis and they must be thinking that they can rebuild your transmission. According to Wikipedia, it is the same transmission. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_Aurion_(XV40)
  7. I am not an automatic transmission specialist but I do know how to do internet searches. Following URL indicates that the speed sensor can fail due to the transmission overheating. https://maktrans.net/Dattchik-skorosti-AKPP-U660E-Toyota-Camry-06-up-RAV4-09-up-Avensis-09-15-Highlander-13-up-Avalon-07-up-Lexus-ES350-06-15-NX200-14-up-RX350-09-up-8941333030-B-U Bad news is that this component is internal. It is most likely located near the valve body so hopefully can be accessed without having to remove the transmission. If you have overheated the transmission then the ATF will also need to be replaced. You will be poorer in $$$ from this experience. If you want to do stupid, then get yourself another car e.g. Ford Turbo XR6 then blow up the turbo [like my son].
  8. I have had the same thoughts but not actioned them. Risk is potential wear or damage to the oil pump and the torque convertor. My previous and current approach has been to do multiple pan fluid changes. However, if I had been more knowledgeable and experienced at the time of the fluid level check procedure, I would have done a transmission flush by disconnecting the return line from the oil cooler at the bottom of the radiator. Last ATF change, I drained the pan when the fluid was at operational temperature and the car was up on ramps with the engine turned off. Reasoning was that the fluid would have expanded and there would be more fluid in the pan. I then let the drained ATF cool down then poured it into 2 x 1.5litre plastic bottles. I then used a 3rd 1.5litre plastic bottle to match the level in each bottle for re-filling purposes. Acceptable accuracy of measurement and no issue if you add a few more mls. Following are my calculations for the capacities within the various components of the transmission based upon servicing data at an ambient temperature of 20C and an operating temperature of 100C. Litres Expansion Mls Torque Converter Capacity [calculated] 1.9 1.076 2044.4 Valve Body Capacity [calculated] 0.4 1.076 430.4 Oil cooler and cooler hose Capacity [calculated] 0.5 1.076 538 Oil pan Capacity [calculated] 2.8 1.076 3012.8 Remainder/Balancing Capacity [calculated] 0.97 1.076 1043.72 Temp.20C Litres Temp.100C Mls Total Capacity = 6570ml = 6.57 litres 6.57 1.076 7069.32 Fluid Expansion @ 80x0.00095=0.076=7.6% 499.32 6570
  9. Interesting that I just bought a twist socket set on eBay today after watching some YouTube videos about removing lugnuts. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/11Pcs-Damaged-Nut-Lock-Remover-Twist-Socket-Set-Screw-Extractor-Tool-16-27mm/163841096946 Let you re-think that approach. Even just tightening the housing up until it stops will be more than sufficient then you have the metal expansion when the engine block and oil warm up to operating temperature.
  10. campbeam

    rav 4

    No direct experience but for research purposes I use RedBook for model specifications and Australian Car Reviews. From there, you start refining more Internet searches about specific issues. http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=guide&make=Toyota&model=RAV4&gen=1119
  11. I have looked at this type of tool a few times but stayed with using a 3/8" drive directly to the bottom of the housing. When refitting the housing, I lubricate the o-ring and then tighten by hand. Sometimes it takes a few attempts so threads match and it spins up quite freely. I then tighten it by hand all the way then back it off a 1/4 turn. Afterwards wipe down the housing in case you want to check there is no oil leakage later.
  12. The transmission has an overall capacity of 6.3 to 6.5 litres. So there is plenty of öld" fluid after changing the ATF. Best way that I know of is to flush the transmission by disconnecting the return line to the transmission. In this scenario, you should definitely need to fully know and comprehend the fluid level check procedure. I have done this on my other vehicles [transmissions with dipsticks] but not on the Aurion. Another option is to drive the vehicle then do another ATF change. Toyota Camry ATF Transmission Fluid Flush.docx
  13. Hypothetically, checking fluid level would not be necessary. Realistically, your fluid measurements would need to be very accurate plus allow for the volume of sludge build up on the transmission pan which you will be cleaning off and any evaporation. Best to add another 200ml or at least fill the new filter with ATF.
  14. Easiest and quickest way to check for oil sludge is to remove the oil filler cap and have a look at the inside of the cap for amy build up. Use a light to look inside the opening of the valve cover. I use a thick plastic straw [what you get with a thickstake or a slurpee] to probe/slide down the side of the head. Another check is to look at the oil filter cartridge and the inside of the oil filter cartridge housing. White smoke on start up is anoth.er sign of oil sludge build up.in an Aurion. There are a few threads in this Forum on that issue. Oil sludge is an engine killer. Best prevention is regular oil changes and to use quality oils.