Jump to content

campbeam

Regular Member
  • Posts

    2,499
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    173

campbeam last won the day on October 13

campbeam had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Aurion
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Queensland
  • How did you find us?
    Google
  • Interests
    General Automotive

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Ashley

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

campbeam's Achievements

Grand Master

Grand Master (14/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

693

Reputation

  1. Hopefully, you have got the owners manual and a recent service history. Main items to check is that the rear VVTi oil line has been replaced with a full metal version and that the oil cooler hoses have been replaced with a metal piping version. There are threads on this Forum that cover each of these items and some posts can be confusing because they mix up these 2 separate issues. A quick check of the colour of the engine oil will give you an idea of whether an oil change and oil filter cartridge change is due now/soon e.g. @ 120K. You mentioned brake shudder so a thorough check of the brake pads and rotors would be a priority. A check of the condition of the brake fluid will determine whether a change of brake fluid is required now or can be checked again at the next service. If the automatic transmission fluid has not been changed [check service history] then highly recommend getting the ATF changed either using Toyota ATF [WS specification] or Penrite LV ATF which is a full synthetic ATF. Also it is normal operation for gear changes to be more in lower gears until the engine and coolant have warmed up. Once that has happened, gear changes should be smooth and not that noticable. Gear changes are can be smoother after the ATF has been changed. Original double iridium spark plugs have a lifespan of 160-190K kms. When I replaced my spark plugs, I also replaced the ignition coils. Recommend using a quality known brand full synthetic engine oil e.g. Penrite, Nulon, Shell, Castrol etc. Refer to owners manual for the oil viscosity e.g. 5W-30. I will also use 5W-40 particularly in summer months for better engine wear protection especially when doing road trips. Your estimated annual driving of 30-35K is about 2-3 times mine so your oil change interval can be extended potentially up to 10K if using a full synthetic engine oil and a genuine Toyota oil filter cartridge. The 2GR-FE engine can be prone to oil sludge so regular oil changes with a quality engine oil are essential. Also the 2GR-FE engine has a timing chain and regular oil changes to remove the decominated oil is a good preventative measure. With regards to the power steering, I replace the fluid in the reservoir annually. How long the water pumps last can be a bit of a lottery. I replaced mine after 200K but I bought my Aurion used at 160K. My pump did not leak but became noisy when I started the engine one Saturday morning. Other posts on this Forum indicate the pump failing and leaking unexpectedly. Another member has recently replaced the water pump as a preventative measure. What I was doing was to replace the cooling fluid in the reservoir and cleaning any residue out of the reservoir. A check of the condition of the coolant will indicate whether it is due to be replaced. This may not be applicable to yourself because when the alternator was replaced, the radiator could have been drained and removed.
  2. Attached picture is after doing a few hours of highway driving; Brisbane to Gold Coast and back. Oil on the dipstick is now a light golden colour. I did check with the inspection camera but no noticable difference. Really need a decent road trip.
  3. If you do a search of this Forum you may be able to locate the post where a member has cut away that blank plate and fitted a cabin filter. Your choice whether you think that it is worthwhile or accept that your vehicle does not have a cabin filter.
  4. It is a very unfortunate set of circumstances. I can understand why your new vehicle cannot be driven until that faulty cooling fan is replaced. The Forum members will be interested to know what Toyota is doing to help alleviate the situation. Have they given you an acceptable loan vehicle etc.? Like yourself, I have not come across this issue except how important it is to keep the cooling intake vents clear and to clean the fan filter. YouTube videos posted by The Car Nut are well worth your viewing time and to heed his advice.
  5. After some light rain overnight, I took a few photos this morning which I thought were worth posting. First photo shows where the water has beaded and rolled off the front windscreen but not the front bonnet. 2nd photo shows the various sizes of the water beads on the bonnet before possible joining and rolling off.
  6. I thought that I would start this thread to record my latest battle with the ongoing oil sludge issue. Most of my driving is short distance <10-15kms so the engine does not get up to full operating temperature to help disperse any accumulated contaminants. However over the next 2-3 weeks I will have the opportunity to do longer trips to aid the oil sludge removal process. As a starting point, I did an oil change about 1 week ago at 231250 kms on the odometer. Now done another 300kms and the following photos were taken after driving 250kms. The oil on the dipstick is almost tranparent in colour with a faint golden colour trace. Photo inside the oil filler cap gives a better view of the engine oil colour on top of the finger protection plate. The other photo is a picture of the display screen of the inspection camera which has dual lens. Top half of the screen shows the downward looking view of the cylinder head which looks quite clean. The lower half of the screen shows a side view of a camshaft. You can see the accumulated oil sludge at the end of the camshaft.
  7. I had this thread in mind when last weekend I gave my Aurion a complete all over treatment using P&S Beadmaker. All the glass and the paintwork got a spray of the P&S Beadmaker. Weather forecast for Brisbane was also showing rain expected today. It did rain overnight and I did take some photos this morning. They are very similar to the photos already posted. Only difference that I thought was that the water beads may not have been as large but that could very well be more to the different cameras being used as well as the skill of the photographer. I am still a learner. 😄 I am more looking forward to a rain shower while driving to see how well the water beads and flies off the windscreen. I have given the Rain-X a miss in favour of the P&S Beadmaker. I am very pleased with P&S Beadmaker being easy to apply after doing the preparation work. Most likely using more product than an experienced detailer. Just ordered a resupply of P&S Beadmaker. Waiting for the Turtle Wax Flex Wax to come down in price before giving it a go.
  8. Last weekend, I checked the pads and rotors for wear and possible replacement. Previously I had thought about also about checking or replacing the brake fluid but got a bit hot and tired so left for another time. Good bit of timing that The Car Nut posted this YouTube video. After using my brake fluid tester, one yellow light indicated that the fluid was still OK.
  9. Actually that is really great useful advice for any car buyer. Admittedly the advice is based upon having a future discussion/battle for a warranty matter. I was more thinking of it as useful reference material if you were wanting to clarify a certain detail/specification. It could also be useful when selling the vehicle particularly if the prospective/actual purchaser wants to have as much information about the vehicle. I also viewed a YouTube video about current demand being greater than supply for new vehicles in the USA. Also the rise of online sales where you can now order a vehicle with your preferred options [and wait] in contrast to previously going to a dealer and being sold from what they have in stock. With online sales, it makes sense to download the relevant webpages at the time of placing your online order. Pricing and options may only be available in a certain timeframe then those webpages will disappear.
  10. Looks like you have already checked the brake caliper pistons and confirmed that they can move. Something for your consideration is to grease the brake caliper slide pins. I have done it on my Aurion more as preventative maintenance. In my case, I chose to use Penrite Copper Eze anti-seize grease.
  11. Got some bad news for you. I may have had the occassional VVTi rattle upon start up. I have no direct experience or read about a grinding noise when the VVTi system is engaged at higher revs.The car is giving you a warning sign about the VVTi system. Ignore at your peril of an expensive repair at a later date when it fails badly. Best thing to do is get an experienced Toyota mechanic to check the VVTi system. This is going to involve removing the valve covers and checking the bolts on the VVTi system as a starting point. Another potential related issue could be oil sludge particles caught in the filter mesh screens of the VVTi system for the oil control valves. As for the previous owner's claim about getting a fuel economy of 9L/100kms, I would expect that was achieved from mostly highway driving with some urban driving. Lead foot/spirited driving will also impact your fuel economy. KAA must be more light footed and disciplined than myself to be achieving 9.7L/100 kms. I also do mostly short distance driving <10 km trips so my fuel economy is terrible compared to a road trip where I can achieve <8L/100 kms [at the speed limit and without too much overtaking].
  12. What specific issue are you referring to? Personally, it took me a while to get used to having a foot brake instead of a hand brake. Now when I get in the girlfriend's Yaris which has a hand brake, the leg muscle memory goes into action looking for the non-existent foot brake. I have had no issues with using the foot brake mainly because I can apply extra force [if required] to disengage the foot brake. Others have reported that the foot brake is not holding the vehicle when on a slope but this would mainly be due to the rear hand brake shoes inside the rear rotors and/or the foot brake not being correctly adjusted. Yesterday I removed the rear rotors to check the foot brake shoes and cleaned away the brake dust. I thought about adjusting the foot brake shoes but did not. Afterwards, the foot brake was not working as effectively [presumably without the benefit of the brake dust for that extra bit of friction]. Made the effort today and went back and fully adjusted the rear brake shoes and the foot brake. Surprisingly, it spent 2 hours for the rear passenger side and ony 1/2 hour for the rear driver side. Adjusting the foot brake only took a matter of minutes with the aid of previous experience, a deep socket and a LED light.
  13. I have given up trying to use the drain bung at the bottom of the oil filter cartridge housing. The housing rotates off first. Forgotten how many months ago, that I used an oil filter removal tool to hold the housing in place on the grass while I applied pressure to remove that drain bung. Ended up deciding that it was not worth the effort and just loosen the housing gradually and let the oil drip into a drain pan before fully removing the housing.
  14. My thought was to get hold of a can of silicone spray and give the suspension bushes a good spray. The next target would be the rubber seating for the springs on the suspension strut. Something else to consider is the tyre pressure. Use the recommended tyre pressure as per the owner's manual for a more comfortable ride. Follow up question is whether the original size wheels are still fitted or have been changed to a larger size and tyres with a smaller sidewall height. This would contribute to a harder ride. If you have 205/55/16 tyres fitted, 215/60/16 tyres with a larger sidewall height should result in a more comfortable ride but you will have to consider to what extent this may impact handling and braking performance. Certainly something that you would want to discuss with a reputable tyre shop as to whether it is a viable option.
  15. Fuel economy is at its worst for short trips. Until the engine and coolant warms up, the transmission operates more in the lower gears. Fuel economy for the Aurion is at its best for cruising on the highway. A bit hard when you are under travel restrictions due to COVID-19. In recent times, I have given up worrying about the fuel economy and more concentrate upon just enjoying the drive. The lead foot also plays havoc with the fuel economy. I may not be the fastest away from the traffic lights but I do overtake them further down the road. Also best to keep as much fuel in the tank to cool the fuel pump to hopefully extend its operating life.

Toyota Owners Club AU © 2020 | This Website has no association with Toyota (AU) or Toyota Motor Corporation. | Cookies | Privacy Policy | Terms & Conditions

×
×
  • Create New...

Forums


News


Membership