exhaust plate between manifold and cat?

[123R-Prozak]

ok, so there's a plate in the exhaust between the cat and the manifold which make the exhaust a 4-2-1... anyone have a problem with the welds on this plate breaking and it rattling? cause ive must of taken it off and welded it back on so many times, it just breaks down... can i get rid of this plate? leave it as a 4-1 ? or... any other suggestions??

rattle on decel ! tingi noise, when i weld it to fix it, noise is gone but comes back a few weeks l8errr !

[daniboy]

when i first did my 2zz conversion on my wagon i didnt run the splitter pipe i had just 2 1/2 inch pipe there instead, it drove ok but i can notice a definate differance with it on there now, it accelerates much better in midrange with that proper splitter there,

[123R-Prozak]

Half of it is gone, it just breaks off in little bits and sits there, luckily it hasn't blown through my new cat, I had to replace the old cat because it blew through at one stage..

So what shall I do? Replace the down pipe to the cat with just a new pipe, or ?

[CHA54]

why are the welds breaking?

If it's welded properly it should hold, use something like an ER70S filler with the TIG after sandblasting the inside clean

If the metal's degrading then rip it out and weld in a new section.

Edited November 6, 2011 by CHA54

[SuperDave]

Common problem for hard driven sportivos for that fin to crack the weld and tear the fin. It's the ****ty spot welds and thin wall exhaust.

Easiest fix is to repalce the manifold with the PPE extractor. It is pretty much the same length is the 4-2-1 stock setup (so to where the fin ends). The cat will need to be shifted rearwards about 15cm.

[123R-Prozak]

why are the welds breaking?

If it's welded properly it should hold, use something like an ER70S filler with the TIG after sandblasting the inside clean

If the metal's degrading then rip it out and weld in a new section.

its clean and the welds are good done with tig. it just breaks around the weld, the weld itself stays there, if it makes sence, the metal plate on the inside wall is breaking off...

Common problem for hard driven sportivos for that fin to crack the weld and tear the fin. It's the ****ty spot welds and thin wall exhaust.

Easiest fix is to repalce the manifold with the PPE extractor. It is pretty much the same length is the 4-2-1 stock setup (so to where the fin ends). The cat will need to be shifted rearwards about 15cm.

yeh the thin wall on the inside of the exhaust is breaking... aswell as the plate...

not to keen on spending the $ on a new exhaust mani, installation is no biggy, but im saving for the furniture of my new house for when its finished building ! lol

whats the damage on one of the PPE extractors anyway??? pics??

[123R-Prozak]

p.s i know its annoying when people come on here, start a topic and want the cheapest way fixed lol

p.p.s i looked up MWR, looks mad, 4-1 setup, but pretty pricy!

[SuperDave]

Buy direct from PPE without the fancy coating and it is about $550USD, and about $100 shipping (can't remember exactly). http://www.ppeengineering.com/products/toyota/celica/2zzgegts.php

[CHA54]

if it's breaking at the edge of the weld then there's too much HAZ in the metal. Get someone else to TIG it.