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Posted

There was definitely a difference in fit-and-finish when I compared my 03 Camry to a Japan-built 05 Corolla.  I can only guess that QC in Australia is lower than in Japan!

As for tyre pressures on my 4-Cyl Camry:

Front: 40 PSI

Rear: 35 PSI

I also notice that the window sealers on the outside are misaligned and it is common to all Gen 5/5.5 Camrys even if they are brand new at the dealerships - difficult to describe this one...  where the door panel means the window frame, there is a rubber strip that 'scrapes' against the window.  One end is always wedged opened by the external window frame.  One can only hope it does not corrode anything on the inside!

I too am getting rattles somewhere - seems to be coming from somewhere forward of the dashboard...

hi M_LUKE

if you don't mind me asking, with 40/35psi front/rear, what sort of fuel economy are you getting?

cheers

Posted
Hi guys,

I have a 03 V6 Sportivo and i have also had a few problems:

1) Squeaky noises when turning from sterring - Was fixed when i replaced the springs and the car was lowered

2) Front driver window sealer is deformed which is goin to be fixed in near future

3) Hand brake at one stage wouldnt work, the car just kept rolling :angry:

I also have an issue with filling my car with fuel - Every time I fill up the fuel keeps clickin as if the tank is full when its not therefore i have to hold the trigger half way which takes ages to fill up!!  :angry:  Can anyone shed some light on this for us please?

Apart from that everything else is fine and my fuel economy im getting 8.5L/100km  :D

Thanks

G'day Perthcamry,

Springs are awesome for the money i paid went with Eibach pro kit! Money well spent.

Yeah i was very surprised as well, but because i use the cruise control 24/7 this i think helps alot and also because i only hav one pt left on my licence and therefore dont want to be flashed  :P

hi SPORDEANO,

i'm still trying to digest this......

you've got the V6, you're getting 8.5L / 100km

i've got the 4cyl, i'm getting 13.5L / 100km

am i the only one who thinks it should be the other way around? <_<

and just how exactly you use cruise control 24/7?

thanks mate

Posted
Hi I had some problems with my car when new.

A clunk in the front suspension which needed a tyre rod replacing or something like that, Handbrake was stuck on one wheel and the bushes were twisted on the rear suspension (this was picked up over the pits in WA when I changed plates in the state) :rolleyes:

I think all new cars have a few niggles but as long as they fix them up that’s the main thing. The frustrating thing is that you pay for a dealer to go over the car when you buy it and don’t expect too much wrong after that.

My VW had similar problems and that was built in Germany so its not inherently a Toyota issue. :P

As  for your fuel consumption…..

If its new it might not be warn in yet,  try some injection cleaner, mention it to Toyota at a service.

As for the tyres I have not looked at the manual or tyre placard. But the only car I know of with different tyre pressures front and rear was some 1960’s Renault, they did that so it had some form of handling. ;)

Most motoring people, car clubs and all that recommend going a little higher than stated. So maybe 2-3 PSI higher. Better cornering, safer and better fuel economy is the outcome. Slightly increased tyre wear is the downside. I would be surprised if there were different inflation recommendations front and rear.

Hi everyone  :P

New to this forum

I own a 05 Camry 4cyl Sportivo as well

About 6 month

Fuel comsumption is about 12-13L/100km...... :angry:

And also fix the car about 4times as well

1st time: fix the paint quality of the body kit.....  :angry:

2nd time: fix the head unit as it will goes security by itself  :angry:

3rd time: fix the noise from the front  :angry:

4th : fix the noise again.... :angry:  :angry:

and.....

5th: fix the body kit again as it bend out  (waiting for parts now):angry:

and probably 6th: found water in the boot  :o

And this might help: If the squeaking noice you guys having is happen when u turning (especially audible when turning and slight braking at the same time), it might be a dust ring at the crank shaft is losen and contact with the brake, I fix this noice twice  :(  hope this can help u guys solve this problem B) )

hi PERTHCAMRY

so my 05 camry sportivo 4cyl and whitecamry's are about the same......about 13L / 100km

if i'm understanding what you mean by "it might not be warn in yet" correctly, what you're saying is we're getting 13L / 100km because ours are still quite new. am i right?

i'm not sure how many km whitecamry's 05 camry sportivo 4cyl got.......but mine's got about 10,000km now

in your opinion, when do you think i should be getting the "normal" fuel economy?

thanks

Posted

Hey again.

I am having a lazy day.

I think the car may run rich till the first service 15,000. Tell Toyota about it. Reset your ECU by disconecting the batery for some time. Drive gently and see how you go. B)

Try booking in soon. Did you do the interim service 7500 (not required to keep your warranty intact)

I would if not as changing the oil is important if you want to get a long life out of your engine. ( I think this will be the last petrol only car I get so hope for 8+ years out of it). :unsure:

Anyone else have any ideas?

so reset ECU

See Toyota get them to check for anything odd

Up tyre pressure

try BP 91

Put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank

Drive smoothly

Keep constant speed

Roll down hills

(I am evil and put in neutral rolling up to red lights –(closet greeny) :P

If that does not work

Maybe add some other catalyst thing if still not happy :ph34r:


Posted

Hey

The only issue i have with my camry is the rattling from within the front left door, which is still there(they have looked at it only once, and the sound came back the next day).

As for tyre pressures, it is always recommended that you add +2/+3 PSI to what is recommended on the tyre placard, to increase tyre life, and increase mileage. The tyres at the front have higher pressures becasue of the following:

1. the weight of the car being greater at the front(because most of the hardware being at the front)

2. because it is a a front wheel drive, since the car drives power to the front you need more grip at the front of the car.

3. Since it is a front wheel drive, the car will understeer(through corners), hence you will need to compensate that by giving greater grip to the front by increasing the tyre pressures.

Hence for a front-wheel drive car the tyre pressure recommendations will always be greater in the front. A rear-wheell drive will usually have equal tyre presurres all round, or greater at the back(depending on the weight of the car).

As for the petrol issue you will be better off using a higher RON petrol, especially with the 4-cylinder engine, as it is a newer engine and will take advantage of the higher RON better. And 13.5L/100km is WAY TOO much for a 4-cylinder engine.

I am getting 13.67L/100Km (from 19730km and 2697Litres of petrol most of it being 95RON) in a V6 with 235R17 tread width tyres, and driving behaviour is always more agggresive than most from traffic lights.

Thats my long and winding post for today.

Laters.

Posted

Hi,

I changed my oil every 5000km (Mobil 1 fully syn)

and every time i just use premium petrol

i change to a k&n filter as well, but the fuel consumption still more than 12L/100km

However, even u drive slowly or push it hard the figure won't change much

so i suggest u forget about the fuel consumption and go hard!! :ph34r:

Posted

I'm sorry to say rolling up to red lights in neutral uses MORE petrol. It is more fuel efficient to keep it in gear, because if you have it in neutral, the car puts fuel into the engine to stop it from stalling.

Posted

The today tonight report was not reflective of the real world, because there was no stopping or starting involved, the cars just went at a constant speed in a circle. Most of the benefits of a "more energy efficient" fuel would be shown in a test where it involved more starting and stopping. When accelerating/decelerating your car's performance is more dependent on the energy provided by the fuel you use. It takes a lot less energy to hold a constant speed, than it does to get to a higher speed.

Putting the car in neutral as you approach a red light will not allow engine breaking to occur. Engine breaking slows done the vehicle, as does the brakes. If you place the car in neutral as you approach lights your car will be more dependent on your brakes, hence your brakes will wear out a lot faster.

Posted

well i've had a few problems of my own...

Firstly,, wen you turn up the base, the drivers side door rattles. Turns out there was a scrwe missing? :S

Also i hear a rattle on the ride front door. Not sure where it is. Seems like other poeple are getting this too. Starting to get really annoying.

This ones a funny one. Coz i have a Gen 5.5 camry, the side skirts were starting to fall off. I mean wen u look at it, the end and front bits of the skirt, where the double sided sticky stuff is applied, it was opening up. Clearly all you need was better sticky stuff. But anyway, the toyota guys said you needed to replace the whole thing coz it's wearing out. So yeah, i didnt complain. THey ordered it and they said the kit wont fit my car. And so they took it back and ordered another one. Wen you think about it, i think they ordered the Gen 5 kit.

Those guys need to know a bit more about the cars their dealing with.

But yeah, new kit was fix, but it's still pealing off. I just applied my own stiky stuff. Just puts heapz and heapz of it. SOrta works... :)

But yeah, Rattle... really annoying... any one got ideas?

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