Adjusting Turbo Boost, Diesel and LPG Flow Rates for Performance.
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Air conditioner not switching on when vehicle is started
Hi Garry I'm having the same issue. Has this been resolved? -
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Hiace 300 series 2019 V6 petrol- Spark Plug Replacement
Any mechanics or owner here that have done the sparkplugs on a V6 in the 2019 Hiace Van new gen(300). I,m a competent mechanic (Fitter and Turner in Hydraulics) and was hoping to do them myself, however after downloading the Workshop manual files it appears that after removing the throttle body and then reinstalling it (after plug swap) the TB needs to be "recalibrated". Question is, can the TB be recalibrated after i change the plugs or will the van be undriveable until the dealer plugs in and recalibrates. I really wanted to do the job myself and save 600 bucks. -
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200 Series reverse camera not working
Hi, New member here 2020 Sahara (55K on clock) reversing camera has just stopped working after completing a 4,500km trip on 99.9% bitumen, for unknown reasons. All other cameras are working and I am currently searching to see if there is a blown fuse but having difficulty. Has anyone experienced this or can point me in the right direction please, even as to where a fuse might be located? I even searched google that advised that the fuse number etc is listed in the owners manual but no such luck. Tried YouTube vids of how to get into diagnostics to no avail & tearing my hair out. The photo shows what is on the screen and if I press the camera view button, nothing happens but if I touch the screen in the lower RH corner graphic, the overhead view disappears but I have an information triangle that I cannot work out. -
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Toyota Prado Fuel & Fuel Gauge Issues
The problem is in the venturi sucking mechanism that pulls fuel from the sub tank to the main tank. Diesel 120 prados have a small sub tank (approx 35L) and a big main or front tank(145L). 150 Prados have similar but smaller tanks, 150L total To understand everything you have described you need to understand how the system works. This write up is for the 120, but from what i know with the 150s the system is the same The fuel pump is located in the front tank and pumps fuel out and through a fuel filter that's located underneath the car next to the tank and straight back into the same tank. When it comes back into the fuel tank module there is a venturi or sucking mechanism that "pulls" fuel from the rear tank to the front. If this venturi is blocked or cracked than the fuel isn't transferred. Common cause of this is dirty fuel, not changing the fuel filter underneath the car, If you replace the entire fuel tank module in the front tank then your problem will be fixed. Or get the mechanic to take the fuel module out again and pull the fuel hose's off the venturi on the fuel module and clean it. Fuel fill vacuum lock issue again here how the system works Diesel is sucked into the engine by the injector pump, from the front tank to the engine then back into the rear tank. If the fuel isn't sucked from the rear tank to the front tank (because of the blocked venturi fuel module issue) then the rear tank becomes overfilled and overflows up the fill tube and trickles into the front tank. Providing there's enough fuel in the system (more than 35L) so all good you can keep driving as long as you have at least 35L in the system. If the car runs out of fuel, what's happening is the front tank runs out while there is still fuel in the rear tank. When trying to fill the car the rear tank is already filled to maximum, fuel flows through the fill tube into the front tank, the front tank breather hose goes into the rear tank. but because the rear is full and overflowing the air has nowhere to go and instead bubbles and blows back up the fill pipe, clicking off the bouser, making it difficult to get fuel in. I found that parking the car on a hill nose down a little helps fill alot quicker. The fuel tank module is quite expensive $500 plus, so a backyard fix is to put a cheap ebay inline fuel pump on the hose between the 2 tanks and attach it to a switch inside the car. You can flick this on 10minutes before fueling up at the servo and the car will fill without air lock issues no worries. Obviously cant leave this fuel pump switched on all the time because when the rear tank emptys the pump will suck air and burn out. (Which is the reason Toyota designed this venturi fuel transfer mechanism in the first place) And the fuel gauge obviously doesn't function correctly if the fuel isn't transferred from the rear to the front as designed. -
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New member - RAV4 owner
Hi, just joined to hopefully get some questions answered, took delivery (after 18 months) Oct 23 of the new Rav4 Hybrid Cruiser. Great car, can't complain, just some little things to get use to. -
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Corolla crank no start (sometimes)
My toyota corolla 1.6 2005 e12 only starts when it feels like it. To make it quick and short, the fuel pump runs, i can hear it buzzing. You turn the key the engine spins but never starts. I have checked the spark plugs. they are fine, the compression is 150 cyl 1 140 cyl 2 155 cyl 3 170 cyl 4. I cannot understand why it doesnt start. It could take 20 attempts or at as little as 4 but never less than 4 goes if it doesnt start and fire the first time. And yes most of the time it starts and runs the first time you turn the key. A warm or cold engine apparently has no affect on it. -
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Usefulness of this forum
The usefulness of the Forum is based upon the contributing posts whether it is by others and particularly your own posts. The most useful posts are ones that actually have replies outlining what ended up resolving the issue for their particular vehicle. Most of my posts are based upon my own experience and knowledge. This can be quite limited because I am a long term owner so my vehicle turnover is quite low. I am a petrol car sedan/hatchback guy only so unlikely to reply to posts about other vehicle types. My focus is more upon preventative maintenance, low cost of ownership and safety. I have found that by helping others, I am also helping myself. My previous posts can also be like time stamps and diary entries. -
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Brake issues
I feel your pain, I just about have an identical issue. Never had a shudder until I (supposedly upgraded) my brakes Only difference is I replaced my originals with new dba pads & rotors. Certainly stopped great, but had nothing but issues. Had them machined a few times. I would only get a few thousand kms and it would start again. Replaced again with another brand that (won't have this issue) and after first trip towing the boat, guess what? Something has definitely changed since first replacement. As nearly 200k of issue free driving/towing, now nothing but repeated brake shudder and same story from different mechanics? -
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Usefulness of this forum
Hi thanks for the reply I do appreciate it and the information re these forums. As for the reply about the steering wheel thanks that is helpful, I have done some recent research online and found there are some boss kits that will fit, including I think it was NINA, there are also 3d printed options as well as adjustable options. The boss kit was the main issue with changing wheels and so I think this can be sorted. The main brands listed on the Autoparts stores data bases and listed in online searches such as MOMO do not appear to have boss kits that fit I will post again soon with the brands of boss kits and wheels that will fit the 2005 2wd Hilux Workmate 2.7L as well as what else they will fit, and some information on the adjustable ones when possible. I am interested in the adjustable ones it is an interesting idea I will have to explore them further as this may be an easier option, depending of course on the wright ups regarding there reliability and safety. Some of the boss kits need to be imported but I will fill you all in further when I can, sorry if I got those kit names wrong but off the top of my head at present, I think that was the ones I looked at. Thanks again for the responses.- 2
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