Electrical Assistance Pls. ACC Connection ?

[Amit]

Hello all, New member here. I am trying to install DRL on my 2011 Kluger. I have done most of the job however struggling to find a ACC connection in engine bay. On few online posts, it is suggested to T-Tap to high beam or park lights. However by doing so, DRl only comes on when I turn respective light on which is not preferred. They should come on when turning the Ignition on and go off when ignition is off. I have tried to connect to Ignition fuse and Dome light fuse but no luck - DRL stays on even after removing the key. Any help will be highly appreciated.

[trentmeyer23]

Have a read of this link in regards to the legalities.

https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/safety-and-road-rules/vehicle-safety/fog-and-driving-lights

Daytime running lights are designed to switch on automatically when the engine starts and switch off automatically when fog lights or headlights are switched on.

[Amit]

Have a read of this link in regards to the legalities.

https://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/safety-and-road-rules/vehicle-safety/fog-and-driving-lights

Daytime running lights are designed to switch on automatically when the engine starts and switch off automatically when fog lights or headlights are switched on.

Thanks Trent, Yes the idea is the same. Ideally DRL should turn on with ignition and off/dim when Headlights are turned on. In the relay that came with DRL, there is a wire to tap on to headlight to make the DRL dim. I am however struggling to find a ACC or ignition power in the engine bay so that DRLs are turned on when key is turned to position 1/2.

[trentmeyer23]

Buy a cheap multimeter or test light, then cycle the key as you check for voltage. It is very simple to do.

[mayhewga]

I also presently installing combined DRLs and Fog lights into my 2011 KXR.

The physical removal of the old black covers and installation of the fog lamps and covers with their inbuilt DRL is very easy, and I too am at the stage of hooking them up.

For the DRLs I am going to tap the "trigger wire" into the nearest parking light wire using a "scotch joiner" a clip with little blades that allow me to piggy back two wires together, to trigger the relay that came with the DRLs which will reduce the DRL light by half once the parking lights come on. I figure the current drawn by the relay trigger will be inconsequential.

However, the the main power source for the DRLs that is only alive when the key is turned has me stumped, There are 4 fuses in the engine bay fuse box that do this but I dont know if their slots could handle the extra load of the DRLs as well as their intended devices, as obviously they derive their power through another relay whose load rating I will never know.

I cant find any other ACC points in the engine bay, so if anyone knows where I can find that please let me know.

[Amit]

Hey mate, I have since found the acc connection. I tapped in the "fuel gauge sensor" fuse in the fuse box. Sorry don't remember the fuse number but if you have a multimeter you can easily find it. This was the only fuse which comes live on acc and goes dead on turning the car off. I used the dual tap fuse which I bought from jaycar for $4. Works like a charm.

[mayhewga]

Thanks for that Amit,

Yes there appears to be 4 fuses that only come on with the key, On my engine fuse box they are marked EFI 2 and 3 and Injector 1 and 2, so I will try one of those. The current drawn by the DRLs is around half an amp (600ma) when lit so I dont think it will cause too much extra drain in a circuit with a 15amp fuse.