Mintos

Hey Bill :D The Kailine is doing well mang, although I do concur with the chronic whining of the standard turbo. Next job after the 100k service is a brake overhaul then something around the area of a nice 600hp turbo will be slapped on :) But this is why the Skyline is awesome, because you don't have to go all out to get the performance. Oh and of course as always I am vigilantly evading the random (import targeted) defect stations... it is becoming a real issue owning a nice car these days, as the boys in blue make you feel like a criminal for driving one We are all awaiting the next stage on your car too mate, don't leave the people waiting... oooorrrr you could just admitt that you have pretty much done all that you can with FWD and are moving to a better platform :P Having a well powered Suby I would have thought you understand the point of a turbo by now JP... instant, random, tyre frying horsepower. Who cares if it comes on at 2k? The difference a turbo makes to overall engine output is exponential, they don't start making any SUBSTANTIAL difference in output until 3-4k depending on gear/load and size of the motor. And if you are going to argue everyday drivability... don't know about you, but efficiency is my number one concern and unless I need to accelerate substantially I rarely go above atmospheric manifold pressure for the simple reason that a safe tune is going to involve in some petrol dosing when that -kpa turns into +kpa :P Soooo, the only reason left for not getting a bigger turbo then is fear of the 1zz's matchstick sized rods with power approaching the 200atw region - amirite? :P That is an F6 cooler? Yeah they are anodized I am quite sure, probably why you are all good :) I am yet to see a vipec in action, however it isn't hard to imagine it making the PFC look like a pocket calculator. PFC has got to be the most basic software out there, probably why so many people love them, as well as their precious 'knock' readings... they are the amateur tuners tool of choice. Waterspray as well eh? will be interesting to see if that does much for the turbo, are you going to have it fire on intake temp? I know of Mark from Godzilla... a few local guys fly him down to Newcastle just to get him to tune their GTR's they have that much faith in him. That being said I would be somewhat selective of who touched my ECU as well if I was running a 1000hp street GTR with a $40,000 motor :P Also, please more details of the Vipec and how it goes in your forester, Vipecs are made by Link aren't they?... what did you end up making with it power wise? I was considering getting one of these beasts for mine when I pump up the turbo, but I like my little Wolf controller with full feedback and from what I have read such a thing isn't yet available for the Vipec. I cbf setting up a laptop and **** just to monitor my temps/boost/etc. Excellent explanation on clutches too JP, A+ :P

Very nice boys :D Especially on a budget, the DIY workmanship has come out nicely. Bummer about the clutch... but its all good, clutches are like tyres as far as I am concerned, nothing but a consumable for the performance vehicle :P Little dissappointed in the turbo choice though I have to say... do you intend on changing it for something a bit meatier down the track if/when you get a built motor? There still seems to be a bit of spare space. Is that cooler custom painted or anodized? Just thought that I would mention that apparently testing with black painted front mounts (yes they do a good job of averting attention) has resulted in some pretty chronic heat soak depending what paint is used. Also have you/are you guys gotten that awesome plenum flow tested? Don't know if it is an issue for the 1zz, but I know some certain aftermarket Nissan front facing plenums have issues with inconsistent flow to certain cylinders resulting in lean outs. I know you guys said the volume is equal... Annnnnd, how come you are scrapping the Apexi? Not the most brilliant ECU, but I would say it does the job apart from the temp gauge. I have heard good things about the Vipec however, tons of features but perhaps overkill? Unless you plan on running some fully sik NAAAAAAWWWWS and launch control at ever set of lights :D And don't be soft... pump the boost, spare 1zz short motor is chump change these days. I wanna see at least 1 bar out of this thing! Just take the ignition timing in dolly steps on the dyno... dose up the A/F ratio and there shouldn't be any probs, hopefully *cough* Keep us updated Jason's!

Like rollamods said... stock Rexies do not have much top end at all, the whole top mount cooler and standard turbo setup is for response and it makes them great to drive around 'normally'... makes them seem really torquey. They are made more for sprints and narrow tracks, not drag strips. Also there is a fair difference in standard performance between the old EJ20 (? correct me if I got the wrong motor :P) and the newer 2.5L. However as Corolla_sportivo mentioned... a WRX that is even slightly modified will effortlessly wave goodbye to pretty much any N/A 1zz/2zz. It is not fair to compare forced induction vehicles unless you are talking stock for stock in which case you really see the credit that is due for motors like the 2zz and various Honda productions that favour screaming RPMs to deliver power equal to that of mild forced induction. However you aslo have to keep in mind that all turbo and s/ced cars that come out these days are 'detuned' to buggery for emissions reasons and N/A screamers are seemingly more 'highly strung' comparitively. As such you will get much more out of modifications done to the turbo car than you would the N/A. Basically I am saying that you just need to take each car for what it is and you can really only compare cars of similar classes if you are looking for bragging rights ;)

Yeah I like GTiR's, I was just being a Jimsky Equation I'll give you 6 in...I mean...10 inches of Robsy Equation if you d...wait wtf am I saying :o Gigiddy... Nice results there boys, feel like big men showing up these cars worth half as much as yours? :P I kid, I kid. Actually, I don't. Or do I? That turbo pulsar looks like he has wasted him time with a T25 though, I really don't see a T28 fitting in there. Why go to the bother of doing a turbo conversion with such a toothpick turbo? Better to have full boost ramp on 1000rpm later and make 50-80 killer wasps more me thinks. Oh well to each their own... That Stagea must be standard for 136. I thought the front driveshafts were a prick to do for the Stagea to go on a 2 wheel drive dyno, the GTR boys whine about doing theirs :P GTiR Pulsars have potential, sure... 4wd, 1200kg kurb weight, standard SR20 turbo... but most of them on the roads now are really clapped out and been through multiple rebuilds already. I personally wouldn't waste time with a GTiR, SR20s are poopy donks. They make good torque for a 2L 4, but the 3sgte is a much better motor of comparative specs IMO. And lollerskates at the riced R31, must have thrown some green at that poor old RB20. You guys know what turbo he was running? The standard RB25 made 220 without breaking a sweat in 40 degree temperatures ;) - well actually, it kinda blew up the dyno

disagree here ..... u need to look at correctly sizing the turbo to the car and the new line of garret turbo's and u'll c y i disagree. Its true... in the last few years the efficiency of turbo response has improved greatly. Have a look at some of the turbo's being developed by the europeans (audi/porsche turbos) and the yanks now. Hell, even my 10 year old standard RB25 turbo with a ceramic exhaust wheel still rams on 12 psi in no more than 1/2 a second anywhere between 2k rpm and redline and that is with about 3 metres of cooler piping. To associate turbo's with lack of response these days simply isn't right, just gotta pick your application! And to contribute to the OP... the likelyhood is you are just getting used to the power mate, the thrill of 100kw atw doesn't last too long :P As others have said, you can try and bandaid fix this disspleasure with something like a CAI or you can drink a nice tall glass of harden the **** up and apply some boost to that ****. Just sayin' PS. Yes, LS1s are dinosaurs but when modified whatsoever *cough* twin turbo *cough* they prove why the Aussies were dumb enough to buy em'. Oh and they sound sweet with the right exhaust and cams :D

Haha, poor xoom... still trying to encourage but to no avail :P It seems like your last option is to give every sportivo modding N/A jockey here a sample of your car to show them that there is no such thing as a bang for buck mod with a 1.8L 4 cyl... This kit would be a great deal btw, at less than $3500 landed... another 1000-1500 for install and tune (easy install however emanage wiring will cost you and an amateur tuner who has never seen a 2zz before will have problems) you are good to go. Good deal, take it.

To a full tank of gas i use 2 bottles of octane boost but thats y i have ordered a aquamist kit Just thought I would add those octane boosters really only end up boosting the octane rating of your fuel by about 0.7 (even with 2 bottles), so I wouldn't be dependent on them to run your 13:1 pistons...

Just thought I would add that I believe Link G3s have VVTLi support as well, however they are not a plug and play job for a Sportivo, not even sure if Link have done a Celica loom, so full wiring needs to be done. Power FC does the same job and is cheaper and easier though so it doesn't really matter :P And I also predict if 1ZZFZE gets his car sorted (especially the obvious intake charge temp problem :P ) should be low 14's all day. Make sure you do the VVTi right JP, that is where you make the midrange torque! Oh and get new injectors so you can smash it to at least 7k rpm - it would still be making power up there with the blower I imagine.

Yep, sunroofs are ftw :D One of my favorite features of the current vehicle. Definitely adds to the pimp factor and is awesome at high speeds, really shows you the importance of aerodynamics in a performance car :P

Your rev range is quite normal for the Corolla. Some of the other small cars are different, for example my old's have a Getz and that car drives best around 2k rpm, cruising on the flat you can often shift at 1500 odd rpm. There isn't much point shifting higher in such a car anyway :P The Jazz motor/box must be setup very similarly - for 'efficiency'.

I concur. This just happens to be exactly what I have on my car, but being of a certain Nissan variety I didn't have to pump or even roll any guards :P If you are getting wheelspin hitting lift in anything other than 1st gear (even in the wet) then you need to sort your suspension/tyre/wheel setup. You should be able to fit at least 235's on the ZZW30 without banging/rolling anything.

That is a very ignorant comment to make... You have obviously been at Binladens for a few years..... Do a bit of research and you will see that not only in the US but here in AUS theres a ALOT of mildly moded (not race, but street) cars running low 12s N/A 2.4lt and under. Eh... read carefully bud. Replacing parts of the motor is not tuning, that is modifying parts (intakes/headers/cams/plenums, etc) - 'Tuning' refers to ECU adjustment and I was pointing out that no matter how much you 'tune' a small N/A street motor it isn't going to be quick. And yes I am aware there are many die hard Honda boys who get kicks out of turning their car into a shell and running quick times with pissant power output. I wouldn't call not having half a functioning car 'mildly modded'. These people should go and fap over initial D some more or something. My post was making a point - chopin2 doesn't want performance that is situation dependent (can't have air-con, can't have back seats, can't have sound deadening, can't have airbags, wind has to be running with you, can't have doors :P) so stripping his car and running with a 'tuned' 100kw atw standard N/A motor is just a retarded suggestion, mmmk?

The hatorade is flowing strongly here haha. You guys need to lay off old mate chopin2 for wanting to take it to his car. You people seem to care more about his car breaking than he does. So what you blow a motor - buy a new one, the toyota economy motors are cheap and easy to drop in. The boxes are strong, nothing to cry about there. So what if he doesn't put the right clutch in, he is just going to get clutch slip - boo hoo. Just because they guy doesn't know everything about ECU's and motor internals doesn't mean he isnt allowed to drive a fast car - he just has to pay. B18Civic... N/A motors do not have a place in performance unless they are race spec engines or unless alot of revs and/or displacement is involved. No matter how much you 'tune' an N/A 4 cyl street car, it is still going to be 'faster than slow' at best. F/I is hailed for a reason - performance efficiency. Unless you can increase the displacement (ie, put another motor in) you need to look at boost if you want more power. chopin2, personally I wouldn't be coughing up $8k to that chump rigoli... he is probably just going to look at the engine bay for a few hours, leave the car lying around for a few weeks, then have his apprentice throw something together for you. You could do a good bolt on job for much less depending on who you know that can do fabrication work for you. Have Xoom or someone that knows what is going on have a look at your engine bay and sus out your pipework routes, possible heat issues, etc. I would say your main problem lies in finding suitable engine management...Autronic isn't worth the money for the application, I would maybe go a Haltec, Microtech probably isn't well suited as you want to stick with MAFs not MAP sensors for a low power job (yes 160kw is lightweight). In short, I say, don't be a sissy and waste time/money sussing out engine strength, just keep things conservative (a good tuner is vital) and start pushing the boundaries when you are bored and have a replacement motor on standby. This is the best way to learn, not cracking open the motor and hypothesizing about centripetal force encumbrance load of the rods and pressure strength of the pistons. Some douche would probably try and charge you a ****load to do this anyway (enough to buy a new motor if that one breaks). Get the right tuner, start it conservative and you will be right, just go for it :)

nice choice for a family car, I take it the new jobs are going well for you guys... hope the are! ;)

Nice work boys, you must have found a good suspension/weight setup to be able to roll with the AWD cars in an offroad rally, as the car seems quite well balanced.