Kesawi
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Posts posted by Kesawi
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Ultimately your driving style makes more of a difference than the type of fuel you use. Thrash it and your economy will be poor, drive smoothly and minimise stopping/acceleration and it will be great. I've always found whether I thrash it or drive smoothly, I still get to where I'm going in the same time.
Save your money and stick with 91 RON. If you want to keep the engine clean, use an aftermarket fuel additive.
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I'm shocked at the lack of attention to the finish form the factory for such an expensive car, given the attention to detail and craftmanship that goes into the rest of the vehicle. I wouldn't accept a brand new vehicle from any dealer in a state like that, let alone a Ferrari.
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Meguiars, only because that's what I first used and became familiar with. Also, because of the excellent Meguiars Online Forums and helpful advice there.
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So while i was buying a bottle of UQW... i noticed sitting high up on the shelf... Ultimate Protectant!
being a sucker for new products... :P
(added a few other pics as well :P - missing is my bottle of ultimate compound - lent out to a mate )
The Mirror Glaze Sythetic Sealant M21 is the same product as Nxt 2.0 so you've got a double up there.
Also, the M205 and M2 pretty much do a similar job.
All up probably $300-$400 worth of products.
How do you find the interior quick wipes?
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mmmm UQW, delicious hehe.
i think you'll be pleasantly surprised. alot of ppl who have used it have had favourable results. those who havent find that their surface was not properly prepared, or they expect too much from a spray wax (ie. hoping it will last months!). i find that if my existing wax layer has decreased in effectiveness, an application of UQW after a wash help prolong the existing paste wax for at lease 2more weeks before protection plumbs to death.
just completed an ultimate detail on the weekend - 8hour one - will upload pictures soon as i get over the side effects of the new flu shot. far out feel like crap.
Plus as an added bonus, UQW smells nice too :)
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Fuel efficiency in these things is flat out amazing. I was tempted to sell out and a get turbo diesel as I was mildly skeptical about the claims of the V6 3.5lt low fuel use but after 30,000km in mine across all types of tests I am in no hurry to do so (documented here) > http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=15886&st=150
Clincher for me was the economy when towing my RX7 over 1400km round trip on hilly country...... amazingly good for a heavy petrol vehicle that has exceptional outright performance for its size/weight too.
Glad to see you stuck with the Kluger
I'm looking forward to your next round of testing. -
Be very, very careful with a rotary as they are a lot more powerfull and less foregiving than a DA. Before doing anything have a browse through the following site:
http://meguiarsonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26009
Then ask questions if in doubt.
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I ended up purchasing my G220 locally then buying the 2.0 Pads and backing plate from the US. I also bought 1Gal of M205, 32Oz of M105 and 1Gal of M83 from the US as well. Saved me around $200-300 over buying it locally but cost over $100 in freight. The advantage with buying from the US is that you can access a lot of the other products that are not sold in Australia.
M205 and M105 are the best combo you can get and achieve the best results with your G200/Megs DA.
I still have my 105/205 half full eventhough i've used it thousands of times its ridiculous. just doesnt seem to run out. Megs Aust sell M105/205 here but its still currently a non DA approved version, in which case when you do use it with a DA, its a tad hard to rid the residue.
I have found the combo to work so well that I've never even tried the M83 I purchased (which isn't available here).
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Where did you source the products from?
Unfortunately http://www.autodetailingsolutions.net/ won't ship internationally, but their prices were the lowest I could find. I ended up ordering the products through http://www.properautocare.com/ who price matched some of ADS's prices and gave a discount on other products. Very few of the online detailing suppliers in the US will ship outside the US & Canada.
I found that I had to buy in bulk quantities to make it worthwhile, otherwise the freight was a killer. For most stuff it's cheaper to go through your local autoshop. For the professional stuff which isn't available through retail I've used http://www.zas.com.au/.
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I ended up purchasing my G220 locally then buying the 2.0 Pads and backing plate from the US. I also bought 1Gal of M205, 32Oz of M105 and 1Gal of M83 from the US as well. Saved me around $200-300 over buying it locally but cost over $100 in freight. The advantage with buying from the US is that you can access a lot of the other products that are not sold in Australia.
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I tried to track down a recovery point for the Kluger when I first bought the car through various 4WD accessories companies. I could not find an off the shelf product for the Kluger as it is not considered a 4WD and therefore not in need of a recovery point. I was told that I would have to arrange a recovery point to be designed by an engineer and then fabricated.
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Have a read through http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16358.
I have the same issue with the foot well panel. Mentioned it to the dealer last service who "fixed it", but still a problem. Getting very tired of not having issues fixed during servicing and then having to make another booking to get them fixed.
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Don't mean to be cheeky... however there is one for sale on ebay right now for $150 reserve, no bids... either no one has seen it yet or that's a true reflection of its street value :o
If it was a reflection of it's street value, the price would be much lower :P
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'Forecourt' is the public part of a petrol station and it is specifically used to make this clear you are talking about filling vehicles - i.e. not the tanker refilling the station tanks. You just have to think about how often vehicle refuelling happens every day around the world with very few incidents - there are only about 50 fires caused by static each year in cold climates like the USA.
The concern about mobile phone use at petrol stations was based on the belief that there was a risk that the battery may become dislodged and cause a spark that may ignite fuel; although no one had any credible evidence to support this opinion.
In fact I first raised this possible risk with the oil industry when discussing the fact that a RF spark couldn't happen and they latched onto it as another reason to keep the ban running - because at that stage the unlikely battery discharge risk hadn't been fully investigated.
However, since then, two research papers have specifically considered the spark discharge risk for mobile phones (i.e. pressing buttons, disconnecting the battery, vibrator mode, accidental shorting of the battery terminals and electrostatic discharge) and have concluded that this is highly unlikely.
A 1999 report by Exponent Failure Analysis Associates in the USA concluded that “the use of a cell phone at a gasoline filling station under normal operating conditions presents a negligible hazard” and that the likelihood of such an accident under any conditions “is very remote”.
The report also stated: “Automobiles (which have numerous potential ignition sources) pose a greater ignition hazard,” and “Finally, other potential ignition sources are present, such as static discharge between a person and a vehicle.”
An analysis by the Centre for the Study of Wireless Electromagnetic Compatibility Centre at the University of Oklahoma reached a similar conclusion in August 2001. It said research into this issue “provided virtually no evidence to suggest that cell phones pose a hazard at gas stations.”
“While it may be theoretically possible for a spark from a cell phone battery to ignite gas vapor under very precise conditions, the historical evidence does not support the need for further research.”
“Until there is evidence to the contrary, we suggest that no further action be initiated in this regard, and that no recommendations for further action are required of the wireless phone or petroleum industries.”
This research is supported by the fact that there has been no actual incident of fuel ignition at petrol stations that has been demonstrated to have been caused by mobile phone use, anywhere in the world.
Although it cannot be classed as a rigourous scientific investigation, don't forget the issue was put to the test on Mythbusters in the first season (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MythBusters_%282003_season%29#Cell_Phone_Destruction)
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Just stick with your HID spotties B)
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It happens to me with every pump. What I do (insert standard legal disclaimer here) is put the nozzle all of the way in, then pull it back slightly (only a couple of millimetres) and lean the nozzle to the side. Don't pull the nose of the nozzle out of the fuel intake. This leaves a small gap around the nozzle for the fuel vapours to escape easily, otherwise the filler seals and gets too much back pressure which causes the auto shut-off to engage. The nose of the nozzle is still well within the filler, and it cuts off properly when the tank is full.
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[Well I'm mainly thinking about diving so water resistance at depth is the biggest consideration..
I was speaking to another guy in my diving club who drives a Kluger and his solution was to get a blank cut which would unlock the doors and have the master key hidden in the back. Although I'm not sure I like the idea of leaving a key "hidden" inside the car..
You could use the Valet key. That will do everything except open the glove box. IMHO I'd be concerned about introducing salt into the door lock and ignition mechanism from the key you've taken diving with you. I suggest you drop by the local dive shop and see what they recommend.
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Only ever having owned cars that had "normal" keys and not having to worry about getting keys wet when I went for a dive or a surf I'm just wondering what others do in these situations? Do I need to get a blank key cut or are the master keys sufficiently waterproof to not have to worry?
Cheers.
Flo
I wouldn't take anything down with me when diving unless it's rated 100m water resistant minimum. Had a watch rated to 50m which imploded at 20m (the extra pressure caused by the resistance of moving my arm through the water was enough to push it over the limit of the seals).
Marine environments are pretty corrosive as well, so unless you're going to rinse it thoroughly, it's probably not worth it. I've seen small water proof key/phone holders sold in dive shops so you can take them with you into the surf.
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Hi all.
I had a look at a new Kluger the other day, and I must say I was a little put off by the large hard plastic dash, it made the car look cheap inside. From the photos I saw on the internet of the interior it looked like it had soft to touch plastics on the dash and upper door trims . How have you guys found the hard plastics in regard to rattles? I was very impressed how the car drove and how much room there is in the car. I have a Nissan GU Patrol and compared to it the Kluger is a bigger car inside. I think the electric steering would take me a little while to get used to, but as for the rest of the car I walked away very impressed.
Some have dash rattles, othes don't. There is a previous thread on here covering the issue:
http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16358
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The light gray plastic slab with the word "kluger" on the tailgate is looking uglier recently. does anyone know what's the best way to paint it black (my car is black)? spray can?
they aren't so bad looking on the KXS as they're in darker shade of gray
You could always order the KX-S part from Toyota, although I'm not sure what they cost. There is a thread somewhere over at the Toyota Nation Highlander Forum (http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=122) where someone had imported the Kluger badging from Australia to stick on their Highlander. The thread should give cost and part numbers.
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- Disable "buzzer" when you lock / un-lock the vehicle with the remote.
I had the dealer disable the buzzer at the same time as they were fitting some other accessories which came in 3-4 weeks after delivery. They did it at no charge.
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You're 18th car? How old are you? 114?
I'm jealous and also shaking my head....again, sign of jealously...
I would also be on about my 18th car. More a function of different vehicles I'v been allocated at work rather than owning 18 seperate cars.
I'm looking forward to your next round of testing.
Petrol recommendation for new Kluger
in Kluger Club
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