terryo

chasing a 1ZZ from a MR2 spyder or Corolla. dont care if fairly dead as I mostly want some internal bits. would be great if it came with a flywheel and coil packs, but neither are essential

there is normally no adjustment on the clutch slave push rod. its an all-hydraulic system, so it does not need adjusting. if the clutch slave cylinder is not pushing the gearbox lever far enough to properly disengage the clutch, then it has a problem with either leaks or lost motion in the pedal/master cylinder. this is what you fix first. The pushrod coming out of the master cylinder usually has adjustment to take up free-play in the clevis, pedal bush etc etc. Get an assistant to watch the slave cylinder while you push the clutch pedal. You want the slave to start moving after about 15-20mm movement of the pedal rubber The Sportivo box is like most other C type gearboxes , their clutches are usually very robust, but the gearbox syncros are terrible. The faster you spin the box, the harder the syncros have to work to slow down the gears spinning around inside. The slightest bit of clutch drag (poor disengagement), will make the job of the syncros almost impossible. Diagnose the fault!!!

I have a few "odd" plates at work. send me a pic with some dimensions. email work direct will be easiest. roadandtrack@bigpond.com

we use penrite HPR5 in all the 2ZZ's we service and never had hassles. you cant really tune these cars as there is nothing to adjust. if they are not running 100%, something is amiss. it might be simple like cleaning the MAF, but don't get conned into an old style "tune up" from "tune-up" companies Fuel injector service is more important then some folk think. the pintle gets covered in resin and gum out of the fuel, so it does not spray properly. 1-shot fuel additives rarely clean them thoroughly so they have to come out to be cleaned. some need doing after about 40,000km, whilst other seem to go to about 100,000km.

I have a set of 15 x 6 1/2 mag wheels with good tyres. came off a GT4. send me a pic of your current wheels if you want to do a deal. i'm out at ipswich

why do you guys contine to promote a US based business who does not support this forum or any other local forum I can think of??.there are plenty of local vendors of the same/similar product. as a small business owner and employer, i have to promote buy locally and keep jobs locally

my comment refers to a manual gearbox and its integrated front diff. if you have an auto, then you need to check its model code and go from there.look on Toyota build plate. it will be A390 or something like that the rear diffs are all the same and in any case the optional factory LSD uses the same EP oil as its a helical LSD which does not require the special LSD additives, as these are made for plate or cone type LSD's

i've got a 'spare" but I dont have harness and some ancillaries

let me know what part number you come up with and I'll see what I can do thru work. as far as i know, the front badge is 1-piece. chrome with black. the tabs on the back of it however may not be identical to the currnet badge you have, & if thats the case, you either drill new holes in your plastic grille, or cut the tabs off the new badge. i've had this problem with a few other Toyota badges I've tried to swap around. it seems as thought the locating tabs are made for only 1 or 2 models. they change models and change the tabs.

I have fitted several of these at work and found very minor differences between the models. Toyota changed the clip arrangements so holes changed shape. also, the font section where it links to the bar is slightly different between models and a bit of improvisation is needed. having said all that, we have bought several non-genuine ones and got them to fit various models for around 50% of Toyota price

thanks, I've had a few offers, plus I see there are heaps on ebay real cheap. I'll get back to you in a couple of days once I examine the options.

chasing a silver faced, double DIN stereo head unit for an 03 corolla. lots of other Toyota are same/similar up to about 2007. must have the curved corners. msut be unlocked or you have the security PIN code. send pic + details. CASH waiting. thanks

the rear diff uses EP90 or 80w-90. 1.25 litres from memory the front diff is part of the gearbox. use gear oil 75. 2.8 litres from memory

polishing is a waste of time. the basic port shape in the 2ZZ is very good. There are a few 'nasty" spots left over from casting, but radical changes are not needed. on heads like this, you will hardly measure any change in maximum flow. you will however get gains from detailed valve & seat work. depending on what valves you bought, some improvements to their shape & flow may be possible. There are real problems with fitting oversized valves in these heads

not all 5SF's have the cooler. i have an early(no balance shaft) engine I jsut got from the wreckers with a plain filter

i don't think its very clever to put in a 215 if you plan to refit a 185 later on. that would be going backwards in many respects you cant just use the 185 loom & ECU on a 215 engine, as the 215 has coil-on-plug system and most of the harness is different. the head, manifolds etc are also different it would be cheaper to fix a 185 properly, if thats what you are happy with, as it will just fall back in and everything will work/fit we have several useable & rebuilt 185 engines available at work, but here is not the forum to discuss this. call me if needed Terry

if you want to do a 5SG, then read my article on this subject at www.roadandtrack.net.au

define "easy"???????? nothing just falls in unless you have a 1/2 cut donor even the 3SG is a lot of work with the wiring. I have done several at work

what engine is in it??

the Celica footrest is different to the Corolla. road and track is a family business, and yes, i have to pay for what i want personally. I recently fitted a set to my Sportivo Road and track would probably consider being a commercial sponsor of this site but the moderators have ignored numerous requests to discuss this

still interested in radiator, condensor, front lights, rad support panel, bonnet, airbox. what have you got?

I have a set of custom made Simmons 3-piece wheels, 17 x 8. polished centres, one has some gutter rash that has been repaired. it is obvious, but not horrible. other 3 are excellent. might sell them if price was right. pm me if you are still looking

chasing a clean, tidy matched set of 4 mags, 5 x 114pcd for rear drive (hilux). factory Supra etc wheel might be OK. dont want tyres. prefer brissy area, but if cheap enough , I'll organsie freight provided you box them up. email me pics , exact sizes & prices.. thanks

did you phone me at Road & Track about this??? there are at least 3 versions of the 215 engine/ECU/wiring/, with some changes trivial, others less so. Basically it will bolt in, but there are lots of small changes. The biggest issue you have to face is the wiring if you expect everything to work properly, especially the body harness links to dash and a/c. the 185 gearbox will bolt-up if required some caldinas use a dual mass flywheel and different clutch. these are disasters! some cam belt engine mounts dont line up with bracket welded into celica bodywork. you cant bolt the 185 steel bracket onto the later 215 caldina , but you can on the early one the front & rear engine mounts are slightly different but can be modified to get the engine to sit properly the caldina sump shape is different and comes very close and sometimes hits the 185 subframe the 185 dump pipe does not fit air con compressor lines totally different . we usually make custom alloy hoses the air intake/air box pipework does not line up with the 185 installation

there are a few in the 4 sale section, including mine