terryo

make sure all doors, bonnet & boot lid are closed and the interior light is off thru all this.

chasing a set of 16 or 17", 4 x 100 (corrolla etc) wheels. must be 7" or 7 1/2", no wider. must be good brand, RAYS, Enkei, Simmons, OZRacing etc. i'm happy to repaint/repair. not fussed about tyres but let me know. cash waiting. thanks

I've got a 1KZT. thats basically the updated 3L. will fit where 2L went, but you need the later bellhousing.

i have all the diagrams for the locally sold Sportivos but dont know about RUNX. Almost certainly, it wont include the security system we have in local cars. i can make the harness at my work, but we are busy also. www.roadandtrack.net.au terry

you cannot remove the MAF sensor or the car wont go . in fact, just changing its location or adjacent pipe size can ruin its response. we fit the K&N Apollo to lots of cars at my work. we machine up an alloy housing to take the MAF sensor, and then carefully replace it into the pipoework. there is no provisioon in the Apollo to do this. its all custom made. www.roadandtrack.net.au

front face of block (rad side), timing belt end, about 1/2 way up. one version is just a plug (M14 head). other version is a "valve".

do you still have the head, and do you have the flow chart for it?

you can use that plate off the MR2 box as part of the 4WD conversion. you need to strip the 4WD box and remove the centre diff--thats totally differernt, or change it over to the MR2 one. the diff ratios may or may not be different, depending on exact model. you can interchange jsut the crwon wheel so if the diff ratio is different, you have to also swap the output shaft I have a 2WD E code box available for sale. it will "bolt in" to a front drive conversion

i have one. 123,000km. took it out to fit a hot 5SGTE. in Qld, but will pack it up for you. freight is cheap via E-go. $750. pm me if you are keen

i spend a good part of my working life doing conversions... here are a few tips if you dont want to end up in tears or with a 20 year bank loan for getting the conversion done.............. pick an engine that the factory fits into the exact body you want forget about Blade master V6 half cuts as the Blade front bodywork is totally different to allow for the V6, rad pushed further forward etc any such change will require a mod plate, so you cant go backwards (in years) with respect to emission control systems. what ever engine you fit has to be 100% factory stock to get a mod plate. what you do after that, is a different thing make sure the engine/body accepts a manual box and get the correct box with the engine. dont assume a bigger gearbox will physically and/or the axles will line up/fit (eg, the 2GR V6 cant be sucessfully fitted to lots of models, because the axle line is miles out, not beacuse the engine wont fit in the hole) you wont be able to buy an engine package from toyota that has everything you need. buy a half-cut instead so you get wiring, brackets, cables, filters, hoses etc etc

i've never heard of, or seen, a 2ZZ chain snap, and i've worked on lots of them with repeated over revving, the low chain sprocket gets distored, so if i see this during a tear down, I change both sprocket & chain expect to pay about $500 for a 200k service, that does not include any chain work

i've seen a few like this. usually happens when they come loose and no-one deals with the clonking. i've been able to remove them in-situ, but not a fun job.

the 215 wiring is nothing like a 185. totally differenet concept and layout. yes, the ECU sends & recieves info from the auto. the 5SFE box will bolt to any 3S family engine , however FE (S code box) & GTE (E code) gearbox splines are different so you have to custom make a clutch i've done a few of these conversions and i can tell you the 5SFE box wont survive very long behind a 3SGTE i have a 215 manual half cut if that helps. pm me if interested

my 2006 diesel returns around 9l/100k on cruising, 13l/100k when towing 2 ton trailer/race car. it averages about 10l/100k around town with little to no load never had a single problem since new i have also been part of team that designed and retro-fitted a Motec onto a D4D. we got almost double the torque, but man did it belch black smoke. most of the tuning modules we investigated were just rubbish. some simply altered the temp signal to fool it into thinking it was cold. others altered fuel pump pressure by a set amount. none of them did anything with turbo vane change or injection points

we have some stuff at my work, road & track . 07-32018866 or see the web site

chasing 16" and 17" simmons wheels suit 4 x 100 front drive in 16 or 17" . might be interested in quality tyres (ie no cheap malaysian no-name tyres) 5 x 114 rear drive in 16" only. definitely dont want tyres on these cash waiting. will consider pairs or slightly damaged wheels thanks, terry

thanks, i'll think about it. i've had a few other offers. is it the silver or black faced one??

we have them at my work. email roadandtrack@bigpond.com if still chasing

chasing a factory stereo incl cd player. mid 1990's or newer from camry, corolla, celica, hilux etc. if it says "security" on the front face, it must come with the security code to get it going again

I believe they were an option up to about mid '93. it will say "airbag" on the front face if it has one. assuming no airbag, if you swap the wheel it must have a soft (padded) centre to to keep it legal.

can help with a known good used one a a a fully rebuilt engine (never used). pm me

we have fixed lots of these at my work. both mechanical and crash damaged. idle problems are common. some need a idle control valve clean out, some need new valve. wont know till you try these cars are painted clear over colour. very difficult to touch up. with metallic colours like silver, you will never get a match on a guard, you will have to blend it into the door. usually repainting the entire front end with blending the doors is around $1500 + any damage repair. cheaper jobs for 1 or 2 panles are possible, but they often look cheap as they rarely match well. yellow & silver ones are probably the worst to touch up and look good if the metal front bar support is damaged, then the outer bar and its foam backing are both stuffed. we have new ones at my work. no intake mod will give you more torque. thats exactly what the 2ZZ lacks. mostly they are just for show/noise. i've never had one make 1 extra kw under 5000rpm on the dyno as this is not a commercial forum, contact me via PM if you want to follow-up anything

need parts or empty half-cut to fix a crash damaged 215 caldina..... bonnet, front bar, right side lights, radiator, a/c condensor, rad support panel. i might also be interested in any engine parts, manifolds, loom, dead/cheap engine thanks. Terry

i've looked at this site and can find nothing about the early cars. what i found says the generic scan tools dont always work. i've treid to follow the instructions, but you get nothing when clicking on the Toyota/lexus title we have a carman scan tool at work and it works just fine on 02 and later corollas with the OBD type plug

i have rear wiper arm on a 184 I'm wrecking. email me at work as i dont often look here. roadandtrack@bigpond.com the electric fan will stay on if you unplug the sender unit on the radiator, that is the part that commonly fails. terry