450HP/tonne

ROFL man only the vtec part at the start of the video sounds nearly exactly the same as the real car

I'm just shocked at how well he did it. It really does sound just like the real thing.

I should learn to do that and see who at work I can annoy with it :D

That reminds me to start a new thread asking if anyone has tried this sort of thing already.

Nah mate. If anyone has discovered a way... I'd be onto it by now. I've considered tinkering with it myself, but keep reminding myself that if I f** the gearbox.... it's not going to be cheap.

I should still start that new topic, but anyway ...

I'd like to run a test to see what happens if I increase the speed input to the transmission ECU, to the point where it thinks there is only one appropriate gear available - the gear I want it to be in. The input comes from the combination meter, but the transmission ECU also monitors input turbine speed and counter gear speed, so I need to find out what I need to do to get it to do what I want it to do.

Plus the increased probability that the ECU will detect a problem and put you into limp-home mode, which will limit the RPM to idle!

If DJKOR is right about the 50% input will give 100% throttle output ... Formula 1 and V8 supercars have been missing out on something! Sorry about that sarcasm ...

Seriously, you need 100% of the throttle range to be responsive in order to make the most of the traction available at the tyres. With a race driver at the wheel, the fastest system will be the manufacturers design (ie Alonso in the pic). Modification in this example would be like Piquet's driving (which lead to an accident).

In terms of economy, keeping fuel consumption at the front of your mind will be the most effective.

The new model prado will feature in its first TV commercial tonight, before its launch tomorrow!

Be watching 60 minutes on 9.

http://www.toyota.com.au/prado?WT.ac=GNPradoHOME

This was the link I wanted to use, but there was an error with it loading.

http://www.toyota.com.au/prado/all-new-prado.html

... but as I can bring the Intelligent Tester II home from work, maybe it's not such an advantage?

So.... found any parameters you can tinker with that can provide some good benefits (like adjusting the way it shifts etc)?

With great sadness, I have to say no :(

You can drive it with the IT2 connected and manually select the gear you want, but its a bit dangerous driving the car and using the IT2 touch screen at the same time.

The customisations in the Australian repair manual all appear to match the GEN6 manual already on the forum ... and that I see you are quite familiar with!

I bought a new AT-X for the purpose of removing the engine to build a race car. But as I want it road registered I need to keep the original transmission, all because of emissions. So I'm looking at the TCM wiring to see if I can trick the vehicle speed input and have S-mode work like the IS-F ... what gear you choose is what you get. That reminds me to start a new thread asking if anyone has tried this sort of thing already.

I also have just purchased (but not taken delivery of) a facelift ZR6 (colour: liquid metal) as an everyday drive. It will have no aftermarket work or accessories, there is enough work to do building a new car as it is!

With the early production vehicles, you could still engage 6th gear at 100km/h if you were on a level highway and if you were gentle on the throttle.

Now that there is an ECU reprogram available, its much easer to get (yes, even at 94km/h) and will hold (with or without cruise) until about 91km/h before going back to 5th.

The trick AFTER THE REPROGRAM is to be sure to use S-MODE with 6th selected, otherwise you are back where you started ...

The aftermarket is the best option in this case, as the Optitron (Multi-information Display) that is standard on all other grades, will probably cost you over $1,300!

As for the free iPhone apps, none of which connect into the cars electronics like the suggestion above, I have tried using these in the car (and rating, asterisks out of 5):

• **** Rev Lite (Accelerometer and other telemetry with hardware connection) - I could only use the accelerometer (don't have the hardware) but its the best I've used! Peak g's can be affected by engine vibration, but thats no fault of the software. Looking at the potential, I could see giving it 5-stars if I had the hardware to connect to the vehicle!
  
• ***+1/2 TrackThing Lite (uses A-GPS to work out an map/graph speed (current/average) , distance, altitude and location) - for highway use only, gives accurate average speed using A-GPS, but live speed fluctuates. Uses Google maps to plot position and heading.
  
• ** PocketDyno (you drag and it collects data from accelerometer) - proved difficult to use safely on the road and didn't give consistent results
  
• *+1/2 Speed (shows speed only) - limited by A-GPS.
  
• * Max g Force (shows current and peak g's in one axis) - not useful in the car.
  
• MotionX GPS LTE - Just started testing, so no feedback to date. Looks to have some potential, but equally difficult interface.
  

I'm interested now in some OBD-II hardware ... but as I can bring the Intelligent Tester II home from work, maybe it's not such an advantage?

When driving my car in sports mode for longer drives, i can begin to feel heat resonating from the centre console just below the stick...

I searched around and couldn't see anything related.. It's not a huge amount of heat, but if i put my hand over it i can definitely feel the heat rising...

Any ideas what might be causing this to heat up to probably 25-30degrees?

So, I have a car in pieces and thought I would share some pics ...

This first one shows that there are no other surprise heat sources, only cables and wires. What this doesn't show is the plastic A/C tubes that pass by either side of the centre console to the rear vents or the exhaust (which I'm sure isn't the heat source).

So you're left with the bulb shown here, the light from which travels around the lever from the clear plastic.

If it bothers you follow the suggestions above, but as this is normal I would drive safely with 2 hands on the wheel :P