450HP/tonne

Anyway this is the first time I have dealt with Toyota and it definately isn't a positive experience.

I have lost all confidence in taking my car back to Toyota, but I need to get this rattle fixed as it is bothering me to pieces.

Any Ideas guys?

Sorry to hear ...

I've had dealings with other manufacturers dealers that are equally frustrating, plus ones with Toyota that went without a hitch. Dealers seem to be consistently good or consistently not.

1, 2 & 3 seem to all be the specific dealer and not "Toyota" (dealerships are individually owned and run) - so if you have another dealer within a convenient distance, I would suggest seeing them and showing them the job card from the other dealer showing what they replaced.

Else you can explain your grievances (to the guy in charge) and give them one more chance to sort things out.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=24924&view=&hl=&fromsearch=1

Still haven't pushed my sale enough ... maybe I should.

That's exactly what mine is doing. Software is 866-500. Can this update just be applied by my Toyota dealer?

The dealers don't yet have the software, but they know it is coming. It will be a quick fix once it is out (insert a CD or 2), if you have the latest hardware (you have v500 which is OK).

Keep in touch with your dealer for the quickest repair.

If you get needy, restoring to 4.0 will get it all going again.

PS buying from Toyota direct = 120% mark up :P

It is far more than that unfortunately ...

Just speaking my mind so mind me if it sounds a bit far-fetched. All this mention of stuffed gearboxes, and I keep hearing "changed fluid regularly, etc". Now remember how Toyota called this thing a sealed system and you shouldn't have to change the fluid for the life of the car?? What if, and it goes against all logic, not changing the fluid is better for the box.

I know it sounds stupid, but it's just one of those crazy thoughts I have.

This is certainly the case for diesel fuel filters - a normal amount of particles taking up the filter gaps means that the filter strains out smaller particles.

Replacing the filter allows more particles through whilst new and can mean more injector/pump wear and possible damage (the key is to use the filter until the dash light comes on).

Not sure how this applies to the transmission, buy your logic may not be totally crazy ...

Good work on the new car!

Evidence to justify the slap in the face of your dealer:

The panels assembled are specifically designed for the sunroof. If your vehicle grade doesn't offer the option, then what the dealer is saying would be correct in part (with omissions).

There was some early history for sunroof leaks (due to early drain tubes), but they have been sorted and communicated to dealers.

I love my polarised Oakley prescription sunnies. They did cost $550 (including the extra $50 for Oakley lenses over generic ones) ... worth it for me as they are still going strong after over 5 years.

If the alarm went off, it would only last for about a minute and then shut off.

Anyway, the mechanical key will open the door without alarm and without delay for starting the car.

I know that the keyfob is ignored if there is a key detected in the ignition (by a very simple switch) - it could be stuck, but you would have had to lock the car with the mechanical key.

Never heard of the car forgetting all the keys, but search this forum (and google) to re-register all of the keyfobs - only if you find a good reason to suspect this.

Note: the remote receiver is behind the trim on the drivers side of the rear window glass.

My ideal mod: start with a TRD and delete everything but the engine. Then install a spaceframe chassis and suspension package (designed by me) totaling 550kg with me in it.

This probably goes beyond the scope of the thread ... sorry about that!

Sounds the same as when it searches for CDs after the power is interrupted/disconnected.

If you follow the flow of oil, does it go:

Transmission -> external oil cooler -> radiator oil cooler -> transmission

Or does it go:

Transmission -> radiator oil cooler -> external oil cooler -> transmission

When I was speaking to SupaTouring back when I had my Sportivo and was going to put an oil cooler on it when I changed the transmission fluid, he mentioned to have it pass through the radiator oil cooler afterward to aim in warming up the transmission fluid in colder temperatures.

I knew the heat exchanger in the radiator also helps with warm-up, but considering the time it can take to get hot water flowing through the radiator it could also mean quite a long time before the transmission fluid receives any heat.

Plus the type of car I'm building won't be used in cold climates that normal road cars are expected to go. In the worst case it will be under full load around race tracks in summer, so the purpose will be to prevent overheating.

Thanks guys, I will have a look at the 678 (V8) and possibly the 677 (V6) from http://www.daviescraig.com.au/

hey there we are new members and have noticed your comment on new aurion we have 2010 aurion sportivo zr6 spoke to our dealer here in tassie about when the new one will be released we have been told september 2011 release date (around afl grand final day) dealers have only seen the front headlights rest was covered but whole new body shape and upgrade engine etc sounds exciting, cant wait for sept lets hope though there are some decent colours.

Maybe the dealer is thinking Camry production start date and not retail sales start date. That would be a surprise to many Toyota employees, whom I would be sure can't get their jobs done in time for a September sales date!

Please note that it is only the Camry that is getting the AR engine update - don't expect any change to the Aurion powertrain.

As for Aurion and Hybrid versions, they will be available from 2012 (I posted a link on this at the top of this thread).

My guess is that it would be more appropriate to launch the new Hilux at the AFL grand final ...

Which cooler did you go with?

One option I'm considering for the mid-engined car I'm building is using the TRD cooler. But as the engine will be at the back and the radiator up front, I'm trying to avoid running the oil 3m to the heat exchanger in the radiator. Got any hints for oil cooler selection?

Damn it, why is it FWD! With all that torque steer, you wont be able to get anywhere!

If you can't handle torque steer then i recommend you start buffing up. It isn't that hard driving with torque steer.

No it isn't but it doesn't make for a pleasant drive and is quite annoying.

What grade is your Aurion?

My ZR6 is very good, but someone I know has the same complain with the AT-X. Could it be a grade thing or a driver thing?

Or is it VSC, but people can't tell when it is operating? I wouldn't expect so.

Your warranty and service book explains the general paint and corrosion warranty. It should explain what you are covered for.

16 inch wheels with tyres for sale set of 4, done 400km on tyres, Brand New off car

400km AND brand new?

Anyway, you may want to post in the for sale section.

Simplifying the mechanism, putting the transmission in park engages a small pin to lock the wheels from turning. As there are only finite ways to install, there will be some movement. There is also room for misalignment and to reduce wear by not loading up the pin and then engaging and disengage. Your method of parking is the worst load case for this pin (note the high force and noise when changing out of park), but I have not heard of problems with the system.

My suggested method is to apply the handbrake/footbrake while in neutral, until it stops the vehicle from rolling, then engage park.

Edit: beaten again by DJKOR :(

Dealers have preliminary info. Contact your dealer, check they have read the bulletin and ask them to contact you when a fix is available.

I purchased an Aurion ANCAP crash test car for the purpose of building my own chassis for a mid-engine rear wheel drive ... race car (for lack of better description). Ask Google about the Ariel Atom to get a better idea (if you don't already watch Top Gear).

Image a the engine and drivetrain (converted to a Toyota EA60 6-speed manual, per Lotus Evora) picked from the front of the Aurion and put behind 2 race seats. Then add some steel tubes between them and 4 tyres. Make the road authorities happy by screwing on some headlights. Then we have 200 'killer wasps' (before modifications) at the rear tyres and only having to push 550kg to 200km/h in under 11 seconds ...

But hey, you could move the Aurion engine if you want - I know what I would rather drive!

The engine does come out on the subframe quite nicely, so any move would be easy if you make the space. But might I suggest picking up a Kluger rear transfer case and rear diff, if you want drive at the rear (which would be bucket loads of work). I have photos and a video in previous post, if you can find them.

As for my short term plans for RWD while I build my car, have a look at the FT-86ii concept coming up at the Geneva motor show on the first of March - it is rumored to be a 2012 model.

There are a number of ways the button can be set up using the intelligent tester. They can be 1 press, 2 press, 0.8s press (default) and off.

What was it before the issues you had and what happens when using the other remote?

Can make and receive calls no worries, however the screen always displays "Not Supported["/i]when making/receiving calls. Also, whilst clarity is great for me listening to a call, those I am talking to say its extremely difficult to hear me as quality is poor/static'y. Been like this from day 1.

Speak with your local dealer, they have a technical bulletin on Bluetooth issues, including the above mentioned voice quality. Make sure your phone software is up-to-date before you go.

The "Not Supported" may be something that will always happen (it could be saying mp3 playback is not supported, who will know). My iPhone shows the same with every device it has ever been connect to?

+1 for the LED 'moon roof'

10 bonus points for the window shades

25 bonus points for the red lighting on the combination meter (speedo & tacho)

That valve in pic 4 never has a cover on it. Haven't yet found out what it is, but I just suspect it is a bleed valve possibly for coolant or something.

100% correct, there is only coolant behind there.

I'm looking more to the rear bank of cylinders for the cause. Note in pic 4 the power steering reservoir (plastic tank in top left of image) has a nice little oil pattern on it, as does one of the VVTi solenoids (top right). Unusually, the rocker cover 'plug' (top and centre) has no visible oil.

Some more pics around the back would be nice, or top up your oil and start the engine (caution for hot and high pressure oil) and take a video. This also assumes that you did not starve the engine of oil last time it ran also (if the oil level never went below low then you should be ok).

I'm doubting it is a head gasket, as these a still quite a way below where you have taken your pics.

Wow that's a little disheartening too here, that's a recall they should know about for starters and secondly Toyota has the technology out there for dealers to use to source this info and it seems in this case it wasn’t used properly? And the Dealer got caught out when you pulled the recall letter out and said well what about this...

Please note the difference between a recall and a customer service exercise:

A RECALL is only for safety issues where the vehicles ability to run, stop or turn is impared, as a result of a know design fault or manufacturing error. Failure by a manufacturer to initiate a recall may lead to injury or damage.

A CUSTOMER SERVICE EXERCISE is for potential functional or regulatory issue, again arising by design or manufacturing. Sometimes they are done on high warranty cost items where the campaign cost works out cheaper than predicted future warranty costs. In this exercise, the fault is very unlikely to possibly lead to damage, let alone injury.

The recall systems will be much more controlled for looking up outstanding recalls, so it is possible that the dealer only looked up recalls and not the service exercises (which is what the rear combination lamp letter was for).

Front end of the grab handle for me ... but only on certain highway roads over my Christmas driving.