450HP/tonne

I know that testing has been done to show that the brakes can be used to safely stop the car at full throttle, repeatedly without enough brake fade to change the result.

Thinking of things an easy way, the car can go 100-0km/h in less time than it can 0-100km/h; meaning the car has more stopping capacity than accelerating capacity.

It is a surprise to me that the car wasn't safely stopped using the brake pedal. Remember also that the engine can be turned off without removing the key and locking the steering (although it may be without power steering).

As a result of proven driver misoperation cases, new models will be coming out with a failsafe to close the throttle if the accelerator and brake pedal are being pressed at the same time. The car will record how many times this has happened, so that the dealer has evidence to determine if this is a vehicle or driver issue.

That would be a quick check, but I was talking about an internal part; the first or fourth items in the parts list here.

VVTi controller on one bank not being at the correct alignment? Are you out of warranty?

Yes.

Sorry, I misunderstood, thinking it had stopped raining.

Is it only the very first wipe that you have the issue with (like I occasionally get), or does it continue for the whole drive? If it continues, report to your dealer.

The delay in wiping I get after being parked in the rain is due to the film of water absorbing the light rain drops so the sensor doesn't detect the rain as well as it does after the first wipe (the sensor is under the swept area of the wiper blades), after which all is well.

On a side note, I have never seen the difference when using the +/- sensitivity adjustment for auto.

'the wiper will operate once to clear the driver's front view if it is set to AUTO when it rains.'

The way I read that is that it must be raining to perform this operation.

Was it raining at the time you got into the car?

Doesn't seem to work too well if I come out of the pub on a Friday night and it's been raining.

There's your issue ... the sensor doesn't pick up static water, it activates based on water impacting the windscreen.

I get the same thing parked at work on a wet day, but once I get going it isn't a problem.

I drove 879.3 highway km today (from Normanhurst, north of Sydney, to Melbourne), starting with a full tank and refuelling with 66.2L. Works out at 7.5L/100km, but the dash said 7.1, using 98RON.

Next trip I will carry some spare fuel and see if I can beat 900km ...

I did see a 6.2L/100km on the weekend, 160km after refuelling, but Sydney traffic destroyed that!

Green line is NA, purple line is after the addition of a TRD charger shipped from Aus:

Anything where you can fairly compare apples with apples (with and without piggyback on the same engine)?

One main reason for no products being available is that nobody really makes any real advantages above the base tune.

Even the Lotus Evora tune gives only 206kw (N/A) ...

PM me if you want to buy a set of Aurion rotors and pads ...

Is it the exhaust manifolds, pipes and flanges shrinking up again as they cool down?

The turbo version plan is 560 crank HP...

Do you reckon the block/internals (that you can't change) can take that?

The block and crank are good for over 1000HP, pistons and rods are not.

just some advice from an old guy that I know you won't listen to. you're wasting your money.

I am not wasting money ... I'm an engineer and I want to experience designing and building an entire car, similar in concept to an Ariel atom. This is an educational project and nothing like modifying a production car (I only have genuine accessories on my Aurion, none of which are for performance).

I'm sure it would... but I don't exactly think he is planning on getting 450HP at the wheels. I'm not even sure the engine would take that. 450HP per tonne (and N/A too!) is a different story however.

The standard N/A engine (268 crank HP) will give 450 crank HP per tonne of car. Based on the dyno data from yourself and others, I'm looking at about 73% of that at the rear wheels (mid-engine rear drive).

The turbo version plan is 560 crank HP, giving 933 crank HP per tonne of car. Depending on emissions, this may have to be a track special setup :(

By comparison, the N/A Aurion has 180 crank HP per tonne ...

This is what toyota advised on the job sheet "error code P0430 catylst system efficiency below threshold, carried out live data check of O2 sensors, found operating within specified range, recommend replacement of cat converter"

The problem is with bank 2 (front).

Could be one of the problems below, but maybe the dealer has eliminated the sensors and gas leak:

See if you can get a front cat ...

I wasn't able to confirm whether it was the bottom or top cat. I took a guess and assumed it was the bottom cat

I'm not surprised the lamp was still on, as there are no sensors after the bottom cat:

The sensors are measuring the performance of the manifold cats, which is where your problem will be 99.7% of the time.

Do you know which code was found? The code will tell you which bank has the problem, so the repair cost could be halved if you know (compared with trial and error methods). The quoted price sounds like only 1 manifold, so try and find out which one ...

I'm building up a 2GR-FE with forced induction.

Supercharging using the TRD Aurion parts will cost over $11,500 in parts alone (all prices from memory):

- blower @ $4k

- manifold @ $1600

- idler bracket @ $1600

- drive belt @ (I forgot)

- VVTi union and hose @ cheap

- injectors @ $1500

- ECU @ $3500

- transmission oil cooler @ $300

Due to the cost of items 1, 2 & 3 I decided to go with a twin turbo setup. The last 3 still need something done, plus an intercooler, but overall you can do it for nearly $5k less with turbos, whilst making much more power if you play with internals (at extra cost).

I have 3 new switches I can donate to the cause ... should a stuff-up occur.

I have everything you need for sale.

They are from a Apr-09 ATX (pre-facelift), which is the same part as 08 production. They were removed from a new car (2.1 km), which I bought to remove the engine from.

PM me if there are other parts you need, front or rear (I have everything but the body shell) and your location (I'm in Melbourne, post or pickup?).

A technical bulletin was issued to all dealers recently, with a repair method that doesn't require part replacement.

Will the extended three years warranty cover my change of shaft?

The dealers can now fix the noise without part replacement. In your situation, I would expect it can be fixed at no cost to you. But only the dealer will be able to tell you something you can be sure of.

Not entirely. Whilst that is the rule NOW, between 1995 - 2006ish could have 10% either above or below the actual speed.

I'm referring to vehicle compliance for initial registration - hence every Aurion.

99.9% of all car's speedos read higher than actual speed from factory

I'm sure it is closer to 100% ... else cars can't be registered.

Manufacturers are only obliged to rectify inaccuracy if the displayed speed is less than actual, or greater by 10% + 4 km/h. So at an actual speed of 100km/h, the legal range to display (with genuine wheels and tyres) is 100 - 114 km/h.

If the engine timing is retarded (VVTi spring not returning things completely), internal parts won't be smashing together ... just running poorly.

European V6 Camry (link to Go Auto news article):

Something that would be nice would be to have instant fuel economy reading.

Have a look at the photos of the combination meter ... this is included.