CHA54
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Posts posted by CHA54
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Have you guys ever opened your bonnets and had a look for the stock spark plug leads?
You have the toyota coil on plug setup, so you dont have spark plug leads to replace.
hey guys. has anyone tried aftermarket spark plug led (Corolla zze122 or zze 123)? is that good? because i found the website that mention after you change the spark plug led, the hp can increase 5-10%. is that correct? any brands suggest? if so, please leave model, parts numbers and the place can buy.http://www.nology.com/hot.html
cheers
Dennis
TRD.
i checked the trd website and they don't have the spark plug led for zze122 (1zzfe engine). if you konw the parts numbers, can you post it or post the other brand that you know.
cheers thanks
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MAP is not going to be taking any credit for this one... it was all me!!!
But MAP did find it quite funny ;)
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PMSL...
the pod is RX-3900-1
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Basically, if you change anything on the car from stock, and something related to that change breaks, Toyota have grounds to deny a warranty claim. I'll have a chat to one of the senior guys at TMCA QLD who is in charge of warranty claims to get verification on this. I would suspect that if you blew an engine and had a TRD CAI fitted, TMCA would deny the claim. If you are asking a dealer who wants to sell you the CAI if the warranty will be effected, I'd bet they would say "yeah sure, your warranty will be fine" so they can make $350 profit on the red pipe. At the end of the day it's TMCA who have the final say on the claim, not the dealer/service department.
Of course, if you have a warranty claim denied, and the reason for denial is the aftermarket part on your vehicle, you can always take it further legally if you have valid proof that the aftermarket part was in no way related to the failure.
Toyota sell cars to make money, so they will usually do all they can to keep as much of their money in their pockets as they can. If they do this by claiming that your cai and exhaust are responsible for your oil pump failure, it saves them $10K in OPEX.
some possible excuses for warranty denial are:
CAI - caused intake volume to change putting the ECU out of it's normal operating parameters it was designed for, which caused the motor to run rich/lean etc, and blow the motor for one of 10,000 reasons...
Exhaust - similar story to CAI
lowering springs - caused shocks to be operating outside their designed tolerances, so leaking shock is not covered. Same story with clicking CV joint... car is lower than the CV was designed for so claim denied.
Stereo - Aftermarket stereo was spliced into factory loom, voiding the warranty on the vehicle's electrical system, ecu, etc.
Aftermarket clutch/flywheel etc - synchro/gear probs are not covered because the aftermarket parts change the parameters the gearbox is designed for.
Aftermarket wheels - wheel width and offset different than stock so warranty on hub wheel bearings void...
In reference to subaru, they deny warranty on their faulty AFM's if you have anything but the stock paper intake filter installed. If you change any of the exhaust, this also effects the motor, so that's also grounds for them to deny the claim. Also, items like the APS CAI for the WRX will make an MY01 and onwards rex run quite lean which blow's their motors after an extended period of time.
I could go on about this for hours... I've had extensive experience with Subaru, Nissan and Toyota Warranty claims. The general stance from all of the above is the consumer is "guilty until proven innocent."
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that's an early JZX100, there was the JZX110 after that one, they're a very nice car, and no FWD toyota can compare to them in terms of performance and power.
The VVTi single turbo 1jzgte produces it's maximum torque from a low 2400rpm, great to drive but the auto's suck a lot of the 208kw away before it gets to the wheels.
I have a manual JZX81 chaser, it's great, and cost under $10K total.
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If you go to a Marine Chandlery, you can buy paste for the stainless fittings for use with alloy so it wont react. We used to use it all the time.
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mate sorry to be so blunt but you have no idea what you are talking about, there is no way that you are doing 120atw with a stock Sportivo
Well I can't argue with you there mate - I don't know what i am talking about :D However, I can read a graph and I will post it for you to tear apart on Monday !
Do you not concede that this type of dyno is more accurate?
Dyno's are tuning tools, the only way you can do a comparison is if you do runs with car's back to back with the same tyre pressure, wheel type/weight, same gear, etc etc etc.
If you put your car on a completely different type of dyno and state it's power figure for the purpose of comparison to other car's, you're an idiot. eg in your post above you haven't even stated what gear the run was performed in.
The newer type dyno dynamics units in shootout mode are known to be quite accurate, and are very handy for the purpose of dyno tuning and dyno comparison days like the recent one we had in Brisbane with 26 cars. At that day with drivetrain loss taken into consideration, the figures were quite accurate (apart from Northy's freakshow car :P)
I take all chassis dyno figures (even dynapak) with a large grain of salt, to me they are not worth the paper they are printed on when done on an individual basis.
If you want a really accurate figure, remove the engine from your car and put it on an ENGINE dyno, then you can quote the figures accurately.
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http://www.gcg.com.au/catalogue/Silicon%20...licon_hose.html
http://www.are.com.au/products/silicon%20hoses.htm
For the price of the TRD intake, I would have thought it should come with quality re-enforced hose and the good stainless T bolt clamps.
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second hand, $50-150 private, $100-400 wrecker.
new, about $1100 for a Denso compressor.
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if it tore at the edge of the throttle body, it must be very poor quality. Is the hose re-enforced at all?
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where did it tear? at the edge of the clamp, or the edge of the throttle body or piping?
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if you have a look at the top of your clutch pedal you will see the rod from the master cylinder with a locking nut on it, you losen the nut and spin the rod in or out to adjust the clutch. there should also be a height adjustment bolt on the other side for setting the pedal height after the adjustment.
Wind the rod out of you want to put more pressure on the pressure plate to release it.
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I guess you guys could always contact one of the current affairs shows to try and get some action...
http://seven.com.au/todaytonight/contact_suggest
But knowing how shows like that react to driving car's in a spirited manner, they would probably turn it into a "hoon" story...
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so the managers didn't like their email address's being published??
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the assembly on the bottom of the throttle body is the Idle speed control solenoid.
The intake air temp sensor is usually in the top housing of the airbox or just behind it. Usually on AFM-equipped toyota's the Intake Air Temp sensor is integrated into the AFM itself.
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I have the 2004 Toyota EPC cd's
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there has been a part number change on the ZZE123 brakes in 04/2003, not sure when this would have flowed through to the Aus cars.
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what's the chassis code for the sportivo?
The ZZE122 and ZZE123 have the same disc and different pressure plate. The celica part for the pressure plate is a valid substitution.
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a brand new gearbox is only about $3K, a full rebuild would cost more due to the labour involved.
I'll check the EPC later to get the part numbers for the clutch plate and pressure plate for the two motors.
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if it doesn't crunch all the time, it's not likely to be a synchro problem.
If you get the occasional sticking/crunch of gears you may find that the clutch disc is not sliding properly on the input shaft and not disengaging from the flywheel properly during the shift.
Good luck trying to find a Toyota dealer with a tech that can diagnose it properly though.
That is what's going on with the Stivos and it can cause either crunching, sticking, rattling, vibrations or a combination. Rollamods can you please advise Toyota of your expert advise and coax them to fix it :P
These people have no idea what is going on initially and when we try to tell them its the clutch/flywheel and people that changed the clutch/flywheel fixed it they say they doubt it. But only recently, Toyota acknowledged its a clutch fault but still stubbornly refuses to offer a fix.
Getting toyota to officially admit there's a clutch problem would get the clutches swapped in your car's at no cost, but that's highly unlikely.
If toyota wont fix it, you can fix it yourself in a day with some basic hand tools and $200 ;)
A Daikin/PRB/etc clutch kit costs $200 for the pressure plate, clutch disc and throwout bearing (toyota price is $700), then most of a day for a DIY'er to remove the box and replace the clutch at home... I've gotta pull the LSD box off my GF's AE111 20V in the near future to lubricate the input shaft for the clutch, but I've been putting it off for about 3 months now as there's nothing I hate more than doing FWD box swaps at home.
At least the ZZE rolla's have heaps of space to get the boxes out, that would make life a lot easier in comparison to the AE chassis.
Here's a mate's 4agze sedan I helped remove the box from a week ago to fix a broken clutch, the spring broke out of the disc and jammed the pressure plate so the clutch could not be disengaged.... Stupid puck clutches, I'll never bother with one of those again.
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if it doesn't crunch all the time, it's not likely to be a synchro problem.
If you get the occasional sticking/crunch of gears you may find that the clutch disc is not sliding properly on the input shaft and not disengaging from the flywheel properly during the shift.
Good luck trying to find a Toyota dealer with a tech that can diagnose it properly though.
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I sent it to Shao, it's just one of the Toyota Technical Service Bulletins they publish internally for the tech's about known issues and fixes. A friend of mine that works for toyota brought round some of the older printed TSB books a while ago as I wanted some info on a fuel tank capacity fix for the AE92. Now the newer stuff is online. Your dealers are not allowed to acknowledge any of the known issues to the customers without clearance from Toyota's legal department, just like any other large company.
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...yeah Shao, where did you get it? :P
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....hook, line and sinker ;)
hahahaha
Well my BPM exhaust (I'm sure Trevor has a lot of choice things to say about both BPM and Gonzo) has been great for the last 3 years, still good as day 1, and Gonzo's a great guy from my dealings with him, as quite a lot of other guys in Brisbane will also vouch for.
There's a ****load of "Gonzo" BPM exhausts being sold in the US constantly too, but I guess you already knew that. Some of the improved production guys might have something to say about the fanstastic quality of his work, which I rate it as top notch. You can check out the quality of my exhaust anytime, even though it's done 80,000km.
At the end of the day you dont have to pay top dollar to get the same item, just like the TRD (exedy HD) clutch.
Idle Fluctuates; Temperature
in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
Posted
Modern toyota's use an Idle Speed Control Valve to regulate the idle speed. A variation of 200-300rpm on a modern toyota is not normal, that's a problem. With the AC on, the ISCV open's more to compensate for the extra load on the car to bring the idle back up to it's normal speed. Toyota states a range from 650-750rpm for the idle speed, anything outside this is not normal.
For very large fluctuations like the ones mentioned here could be caused by a number of things...
Hotwire AFM coated in aftermarket airfilter oil, incorrectly adjusted TPS, fouled plugs, etc etc.