CHA54
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Posts posted by CHA54
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Bay is now Twincam "JC" Red, couple of small runs in the paint due to me not bothering to setup the flow rate correctly on the gun but it's good enough for an engine bay...
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Stripped the bay down today, gave it a clean, unpicked the battery tray and ground off the surface rust.
Treated the bare metal, cleaned the rest of the bay and then gave it a couple of coats of Dupont 2 pack primer/filler. Will give it a coat of Twincam "JC" Red tomorrow after a rub back
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I'm going to weld a -6 fitting to the rail and run that to a regulator.
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yeah, I've got an AE82 twincam cluster that I'll use. I may change it to an electronic speedo though as I'd prefer to not have a speedo cable running past the turbo setup.
Got the engine mount finished and the AE112 booster/master in place. Plenty of clearance now
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more done today, wasted a lot of the day at the wreckers though as they had a "$49 for all you can carry" day. Got a LOT of usefull stuff there including a complete AE112R brake booster/master/lines and remote bias valve which will sort the clearance issue in the AE82.
Got back after lunch and started on the timing cover engine mount. Decided to use part of the original ZZE123 mount and a carby AE82 insulator.
First off I milled the bottom of the 2zz mount flat:
I cut the metal part off the AE82 insulator that held the studs and tacked on a bit of 20mm square bar.
Then milled some recesses for the bolt heads in the zze123 alloy bracket, drilled some 10mm holes and turned up a locating sleeve that allowed me to accurately drill the required 8.5mm holes for the M10x1.25 tap:
Holes were then tapped and the mount is basically done. Will remove the insulator tomorrow, trim the excess bar and weld in webbing to reinforce it, then a sandblast and coat of paint will have it finished.
Pics of engine as it sits now and the mount:
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I'd say the engine/box combo would be a fair bit lighter than a GZE with E58, 2zz has an alloy block and the 6-speed is a C60. The engine is bigger than a 4A though, but compared to a GZE with all it's accessories/heavy brackets and the E series box which is almost double the weight I'm confident it's lighter.
A quick bit of googling indicates a 2zz is 115kg with intake and toyota exhaust header, not sure if that includes AC/PS/Alt. smallport 4age is 120kg without.
Another site lists an AE101 20V as 121kg and an AE101 4agze as 149kg and the E58 as 49kg. The C60 is not anywhere near 49kg as I had no trouble lifting it into the bay myself when doing the test fitting. In total I'd guess the 2zz/C60 combo is around 50kg lighter than an equivalent 4agze/E58 combo.
I have a JDM ECU with supposedly no immobiliser but I'll be running this engine with a Vipec V44.
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engine's stock although I have been eyeing some stuff off at MWR, quite tempted given the current exchange rate.
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it's all pretty easy work, I've done a LOT of FWD corolla stuff in the past so it only takes about an hour and a half to remove the original drivetrain.
Cleaning the bay was easy with a spray bottle full of degreaser and a Gerni.
the 2zz 6-speed gearbox mount points are all very similar to the AE corolla 5-speed and my shed is fairly well equipped to let me do any custom fabrication required.
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With that done I bolted the engine in to check the rest of the fitment. Found that the head fouls on the brake master cylinder, so will be retrofitting a ZZE122 non ABS brake master and possibly booster also which will solve the clearance issue:
Battery will also be relocated to either the boot or further back in the bay next to the strut tower to make room for the intake:
And the bay as it sits now... Will be removing the brake master tomorrow so I can make a start on the drivers side timing cover mount. Once that's done I'll pull the lot out of the bay and get ir ready for paint.
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Have decided to start a conversion I've wanted to do for a while after having had all the gear to do the swap sitting in the shed/yard for over 12 months.
I'm throwing a ZZE123 2zzge & 6-speed into an ae82 sedan, with the sedan receiving most of the parts from an AE82 twincam I picked up a couple of years ago (Tank, lines, rear discs, cluster, body loom, powersteer etc).
The plan is to convert the fuel rail to return-style, run a vipec v44 ECU, possibly throw a turbo on it (heaps of space for a turbo and dump in the AE82, not so much space for thermofans on the radiator). The car itself doesn't have that much rust, only a bit around the fuel filler and some around the windscreen, I'll weld new metal in for both of those and then give the whole car a fresh coat of 2-pack red.
Here's the pics of progress over the last 2 days and issues faced so far:
First I got the bay prepped ready to rip the engine out:
Before the engine came out though I fabbed up a small jig to indicate the crank centerline. This will let me make the 2zz timing cover mount with the crank in the right location.
With that done the engine was ripped out:
Then cleaned the bay...
Before:
After:
Made some small modifications to the top AE82 gearbox mount base plate and bolted up the other AE82 brackets, then threw the box in the bay to check fitment. Plate mods involved slotting holes and using an end-mill to make a flat surface for the bolt heads.
Found out that the webbing on the 2zz sump fouls on the AE82 crossmember, so sectioned the crossmember. This pic shows the sectioned area ready to be plated up:
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what does it state in your extended warranty terms and conditions?
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did 200 include the new tip?
If you've had no welding experience before, what sort of welder are you using? ARC, MIG, TIG?
Wouldn't suprise me if you just blow holes in the muffler.
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a button clutch is the last thing you want. Clutch supplier must have rocks in their head.
Buy a 2zz organic heavy duty kit. This is basically a 1zz organic "Super heavy duty" kit.
It's what pippy runs on his turbo 1zz without issue, and that makes a lot more power and torque than your engine.
I'd stick with the stock flywheel, if you do go with a light flywheel I'd steer clear of the fidanza alloy items and go with a chromoly one instead. You shouldn't experience any noticable idle issues or trouble going up hills.
You might find it's cheaper to buy a kit from MWR in the states compared to the prices you're likely to be charged locally for a HD 2zz exedy kit.
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buy a spare engine, have that fitted with new oil pump gears, valves, springs and cams. Then you dont have to molester your original engine or have the car off the road for more than a day or two.
Fit the new engine with HD clutch and light flywheel if you want, fit your choice of ECU and get the setup tuned to take full advantage of the mods.
If you want the 2zz to last at sustained high rpm then valves/springs and oil pump gears are a good idea.
Be prepared to spend the best part of $10K on a NA 2zz setup for minimal gain.
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100mph wont get you a 13.
The 14.3 @99mph was done with most of the interior removed.
Add cams/springs/valves/oil pump/ecu etc and it may get there. Easier to throw a pfc and 50 shot into it.
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so they tuned it richer than the 12:1 graph you posted? 12:1 is lean on a stock engine like this, it's OK for an engine with pistons and quench designed to run lean when boosted.
You can probably retrofit a ZZE pedal and cable setup. If you adapt a ZZE throttle (1zz or 2zz) then you can use the idle speed control solenoid built into the throttle with the adaptronic. It's a 3 wire (power, signal, ground) so easy to wire in, the ZZE TPS would also be easy enough to adapt for the adaptronic.
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unlucky,
What was the revlimit set to with the adaptronic? The 1zz stock engines also tend to fall apart when they're tuned lean like yours was and the revlimit is increased. They like to be 11:1 at peak torque and through the top end to keep the ringlands intact.
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you will lose power/torque if you remove the chamber from the intake pipe between the throttle and airbox. It's there to tune the inlet tract.
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I was going to say the engine pics in the PDF have just been swiped from somewhere else on the web, but the bay and grill mount are also yellow in that pic. The charger kit pic in the top corner is definately the HKS rotrex-based kit though, even has the HKS pod-of-death in the pic.
Original charger kit pic can be found here: http://www.hksusa.com/info/?id=3408
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Toyota do this every couple of years in Japan.
Remember the Axio and Fielder GT Turbo special's from TRD Japan?
http://www.trdparts.jp/parts_axio-turbo.html
http://www.trdparts.jp/parts_fielder-turbo.html
The Auris concept is also posted on the TRD site: http://www.trdparts.jp/2011_conceptcar/index.html
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TRD charger will net anywhere from 105-120kw atw depending on supporting mods and how agressive the tune is. It will make a lot more midrange torque than a sportivo.
Blitz charger will make similar power with similar mods.
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And how much power will a blitz supercharger put out ...if u no I would like to turbo it but I have a auto and with the supercharger it won't put to much strain on the box
Blitz charger will put out a bit more power than a tuned NA engine, but with a fair bit more torque through the midrange. There's plenty of turbo ZZE auto's in the USA. have a browse of the forced induction section at www.9thgencorolla.com
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10K's about right to turbocharge the stock long engine. Turbo, manifold, fuel system, cooler, pipework, turbo plumbing, ecu etc.
TRD Charger is the easiest option but makes a lot less power than turbo.
When we put a TRD charger on pippy's car it used a powerfc for management and 2zz injectors with a walbro in-tank fuel pump. The 2zz injectors were max'd out.
After the TRD charger was removed and custom turbo kit installed, the car made an additional 23kw at the wheels with 3psi less boost.
knocking noise when engaging clutch
in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
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I'd say you've got a cracked spring retainer in the clutch plate rather than a problem within the gearbox.
When you release the clutch the center of the clutch plate torques when it takes up and tries to turn the input shaft. Once the retainer fully gives way and the spring falls out the clutch will usually jam so you can't disengage it. Happens on the exedy and extreme plates, the extreme plates tend to use a PBR center which has a different retainer design but I've still personally removed a couple of those which have broken.